ronnie_rotten

Life was simpler when I lived in the real world....

You are a gent, sir. Alas, I'm in the west of ireland! Just me, the donkeys and the bog flies!!!

https://youtu.be/1wwq1Vlk4Wg

Maybe I misunderstood what the guy on youtube was on about. Made sense at the time though...

Yeah, but I thought I'd be able to push enough air down the tube that when it drew back in fluid would rise up and eventually the tube would be full of fluid. Essentially the air bubble getting smaller each time til it was all fluid. Maybe the pipe's too long

I hadn't thought there might not be enough movement due to thin pads... but considering what the last guy let slide you might be onto something.

No one way valve, just a rubber pipe going up and then down into a bottle of dot 4. I figured that would do the job of stopping the air returning to the caliper. Couldn't get the pipe to fill with fluid though, just bubbles! I even started jamming the pedal with a stick and then tightening the nipple before letting the pedal back up again. Yes easy bleed would be good. Can't get one anywhere near here though. Local motor factors couldn't even supply a 1,2,3,5 headlight relay.

I've read the appropriate threads and still felt the need to start my own. Sorry! Td5 Defender. Problem: appalling brakes Known facts: new rear caliper,old one was leaking badly for a long time (previous owner) What I've tried: Bleeding in correct order using tube into bottle of brake fluid technique as I am but one man. Results of this was tonnes of air coming out of both near side calipers and little from the off side. Noted tiny bubbles in resevoir with the engine running, seem to have stopped now. Pedal doesn't seem to go hard as I expected when pumping and engine off, but suction on the vacuum pipe suggest some servo functionality? Not able to pump as much fluid through the bleeders as I expected, I was planning on emptying and refilling the res several times, only had to top up twice. Where we are now: road test resulted in still rubbish brakes, have left the truck front end up on ramps to allow air to the reservoir over night. Did I miss anything? What indicates a knackered master cylinder? There's no fluid in the footwell

I like the idea of the designer messing up the drawing and saying 'sod it, nobody will notice anyway...'

That's a start! Any idea why they were set up that way? As well as looking odd I can't any advantages. Haven't noticed it on any other motor...

Was discussing this with a guy earlier, until what year did rangies have one rear damper forward facing and the other backwards, and for the love of god, WHY??!!??

Oh, so nothing too serious then....!

I know a guy with an l322. Td6 engine. He says the turbo is blown but it's still driving. Is it going to cause huge damage elsewhere if he does keep using it? What sort of price would a recon exchange turbo be, and could a diy 'defender mechanic' like myself hope to do the job properly? Thoughts please.

As soon as I have the brake system flushed and have achieved some stopability, and got the fuel staying inside the pressure regulator I'll be ready to chance a maiden voyage, preferably in the dark so I can appreciate the headlights! There's no frustration quite like buying a land rover in may and it sitting there for months before you can actually get stuck into it. Quite maddening really.

....and when I say 'circling ', I mean circlip of course. Auto correct....The devil's own tool

...here's a thought, possibly not a great one, but a thought... Since I don't have the poxy little O ring and fitting the new unit without it would be daft, could I remove the circling and extract the domed 'whatsit' that I believe is the part that tends to fail and swap it for the one that came with the new unit? Then when I got the O ring and had a spare afternoon I could swap the whole unit and put the domed 'watsit' back in? Apart from the fact that I'd have an expensive piece of aluminium sat there doing nothing for a while, is this a daft idea? Can you in fact get to the circling and remove the domed watsit without removing the whole fpr?

I wish I could use the 'like ' feature here, cos I get some top notch advice and information on a regular basis. You'll all have to make do with my heartfelt thanks!

Well, whatever I just disconnected and reconnected solve the headlights and fog light issue! So somewhere along the way I must have done something right.... Thanks for all the help, I definitely know a bit more about the workings of the light stalks than I used to.

Well. That didn't go to plan.... I've managed to loose a ball bearing or something from under the little white plastic cap and spring on the usually covered side of the spare unit....so we'll call that a fail. I'll have a go at bridging to bypass the original switch and see if that does anything. FML

You'd think so....but I really don't! It just seems to a good way to eliminate a possible faulty item by replacing it with a nice reliable piece of wire! That said, my spare switch I've added spade connectors to act the same as the original when plugged in, so it might be the horn/flash stalk is at fault? It looks like all the wires to the back of the unit are push on bullet type connections so I might try swapping them onto the spare unit and see if that works better

Right. That's something then! I actually have 2 spare short stalks (lights dip and on) and a long indicator stalk. They're both from older vehicles so have the round pin connector not the square blocks. I don't know if any of them are any good though. Wouldn't take too long to cut the plugs off the short sticks and connect to the loom with spade connectors I guess. Is there a way to test the circuit by connecting the wires and bypassing the switch, just so I can be sure I'm replacing the right switch?

It's lucky I have nothing better to do than ask questions, and you lot have nothing better to do than answer them!!! Whilst trying to get to the bottom of my fog light issue, I noticed that the headlights were all to cock. Sidelights fine, main lamps slow to light but working, main pull to flash fine but no dip beam or full beam with switch in froward position. So....am I to assume that the switch/lever thing is at fault and get a new one? I've read a lot about bits overheating and melting, but it all appears of to my eye. Also, would misbehaving headlights be the root of my fog light issues? If I have no dip beam then the fog shouldn't come on at all, should it? Thanks again, my patient and knowledgeable friends

Nearest land rover dealer? God knows, I'm in the wild west of ireland! I keep ordering stuff from the UK, so far 3 orders and it generally works out cheaper than buying over here, despite the postage! Ok. So get an O ring. Does anybody know the specs of it, I might be able to get something from the local tractor place?

....I don't have a replacement O ring for the fuel filter thingy behind the regulator. Would it be stupid to start this job without first getting a new o ring? Can I just leave it untouched and work away or does it NEED replacing. I'm not looking for shortcuts,but I had planned on doing this today....

Wow, that's good value right there! I overspent on a Halfords t40 socket earlier, but only cos I expect to break it and their lifetime guarantee should furnish me with a new one! Might invest in that set though, it's pretty comprehensive