ronnie_rotten

Yes I've swapped out a couple of units already as they were shot, the fog although plastered with muck seemed ok. My disco bumper lights failed regularly due to the same poor weatherproofing.

Well apart from coming and doing it for me, you couldn't help much more!!! Thanks for that!

Cheers Scotts90, that'll make life easy!

I want to try and square up the doors on the 110, what size star drive do I need to ask the nice man in the tool shop for?

Bridging 1 and 4 will make the circuit then, and not cause fizzy smokey sparky? I was hoing it could be as simple as that, only I was concerned that the cleverness of the swith would mean a clever test was needed. I'll get my bridging kit out later.

Oh nonono! My inclinations don't lie that way at all. I was hoping to bridge 2 pins with a bit of wire and see the fog light illuminate. Circuit boards in switches?!? *gulp* Looks like I'll chance a few quid on a new switch. Less technical by far!

My switch doesn't seem to be working. With lights on and dipped pushing the button achieves exactly no lumens of light at the lamp. :/ I know this is a fancy pants sort of switch that speaks to an 'ecu' to trigger the light and switches the earth not live (thanks search feature!) My question is, can I test the circuit for functionality by sticking wires into the plug or am I going to blow things up? My guess is the switch needs replacing, but I'd like to confirm that before buying a new one. This td5 is changing the way I think about land rovers!

Cheers guys! I'll check that out now

Am I right in thinking Chawton white is the correct colour for an 02 defender? Who supplies decent quality and reasonably priced paint by mail order? I remember seeing The Paint Man at shows years ago, but I'm in Ireland so it'll need posting I expect

Sounds legit. O.o

For some reason I don't have the privilege to ' like ' posts here but by Thor I like the last one!

Yeah, it's all a bit vague. And made not by britpart, but distributed by and boxed in britpart? Hmmm. Maybe.... There is a G at the end of the part number and it states oem underneath on the box label. God knows. If it leaks I'll be having a small tantrum. I really want to get this truck finished PROPERLY so I can sell it and put the karma towards a nice pre 80 truck I can use as a daily drive. (Don't panic, I have a backup car!)

Just got this response from customer services Dear Sir, We have just spoken to our technicians here at our garage, KMotors, and they have informed us that the OEM ones from Britpart do come with Britpart instructions and a gasket. Our workshop only use OEM parts and not replacement parts. I hope this puts your mind at ease. Kind Regards, Halina Sounds like bollox to me, but without having a britpart and another to compare in front of me how am I to prove one way or another?!?

Gonna have to agree with all above here. Fpr leaking diesel, collecting oil and making a mess on the floor.

Well they emailed back a said they sent the part I ordered. I sent back a screen shot of the checkout page and a photo of the part and instruction sheet. We'll have to wait and see what happens next. Remember to breathe now, I know this is thrilling stuff and I wouldn't want any of you to pass out in anticipation of the result.

Thanks chaps, that confirms my suspension. There is a g at the end of the part number and the (covered ) britpart label on the box does have oem on it too. I can't imagine britpart EVER getting used by Land Rover, surely?!? Why is it that it seems nobody can ever get an order right first time? I'm getting so sick of buying over the Internet.

I ordered an oem fpr because I couldn't bring myself to buy britpart. Now its arrived I'm not convinced of which brand they've sent. It's not boxed apart from the delivery packaging and came with a britpart fitting instruction sheet. There was a bent gasket wrapped in the sheet. I ordered a bearmach gasket as the oem part stated one was required (not included in the price of the fpr). So. Before I send a grumpy email, is there anyway I can identify for sure whether I have oem or britpart? I'll post a picture when I get back home

So buy the whole shebang (genuine) and fit it and forget it. I hate to think I'll be doing an awkward job purely for the benefit of the new owner, but I guess it's a selling point and peace of mind for me as a seller. I do really like to feel the benefit of tricky tasks for a while at least!

Ah,but I have the hands of a pianist and the patience of a saint. One or more of those statements may be a lie. Did you replace the part or use a seal kit? I've actually missed spannering believe it or not. I'm looking forward to having something inanimate to swear at again.

Ok. I'm in the process of doing a few niggley jobs on the 110 so that I can sell it on as close to a mechanically sound vehicle as possible. Commendable, no? There is a weepy little drip of diesel which I think we can safely assume is from the fpr, and I'm wondering whether to replace or repair. There seem to be some fairly comprehensive rebuild kits on ebay with the diaphragm, o rings and gaskets. Is rebuilding a reliable method of repair (let's say I have the mechanical ability and tools available ) or is a replacement a better job? I've read s lot about the blue box offerings being hopeless, so which if any of the non genuine items are worth their salt? Thanks all.

This bit... Obviously getting as much of the jack under the rear tub as possible. Not recommending it, just saying it's possible in an emergency.

I used my hi-lift on my old hicap with no issues for years. Just put the lifty bit under the galvanised grab handle looking thingy from the side not back and crank away. By the time you get the wheel up the spring will probably have dislocated and will need poking back in when lowering. Also, you might find the height of the bed to be somewhat extreme, so make sure you have all your tools/parts OUT of the tub before you start lifting. And use lots of chocks. And don't go underneath it. Oneandtwo might be on the money with the 'won't work' advice on safety grounds alone.

Ideal. I felt better about wrestling it in there if they're all a bit wobbly . Didn't fancy fitting something damaged or leaking much.

Just picked up a used decat pipe to fit to the defender and the flexi section is reeeeeal flexi. Wobbly you might say. I can't see any holes or damage by looking down the pipe, but it feels a lot looser than I expected. Opinions please?

The body cappings I'm removing have short tubes in the corners which take the fixings or tilt poles (depending on what body is fitted) and the new (well, old galvanised) ones are probably 3 times as deep. I'm wondering now if there would be any problem with just using a long bolt from the bottom up with a washer welded in the middle to keep it central. As far as I can tell that is essentially what this fancy stub bolt thing is. I don't really see what advantage there is to the proper bolt, other than when popping to roof off for a sunny day the bolt stays in situ so it doesn't get lost when you come to refit. Any thoughts on using generic (tensile) fixings?