ronnie_rotten

Thanks bear, the disco I bought doesn't have those bits to take a guard, but there are signs that one was fitted previously. Don't worry HH,I'm having to consider the possibility that I fix the 'donk' noise before attaching more bits to the motor! Expect to see one of my typically needy 'watts linkage' or other suspension bush related post on the forum soon!!!

Just bought a new Disco but the radio is displaying 'wait' presumably a timed lock out before I can enter a code. Assuming I can get the code (anybody here able to get them?) is it just a case of waiting for ages for the option to enter? I've got a 4 and a half hour drive tomorrow, long enough ?!? Are there any short cuts? Cheers

This is the back of the Disco I'm possibly buying, I don't see any points to attach to?

Cheers HH. This is the one I'm looking at anyway. Looks like gutter bolts will do for the bottom assuming there's something to receive them, not sure about the top bracket mounts...

I've just looked at a couple of new ones on a Craddocks, yes it looks straight forward enough. None of the used ones on ebay have the plastic fittings so I'll have to make sure the motor has them already attached before buying one of them.

I've been looking at dog guards on ebay, are there specific fittings fitted to the car that need to be in place to attach a guard, or are they standard accross all models/specs etc? If I buy a second hand item am I then going to have to shell out for a fitting kit (not collecting my d2 til Friday, so can't check if there's anything there already)

Weirdly enough I spent a few insomnia filled hours looking into exactly this. There are some neat solutions, some costing more than others.... http://gromaudio.com/store/usb_adapters/rover_landrover_99-05_usb_bluetooth_ipod_adapter_direct_digital_interface.html http://www.gb4x4radios.com/ http://www.car-interface.com/vendita/en/interfaces-ipod-aux-land-rover/81-land-rover-ipod-iphone-aux-interface-xcarlink.html http://www.car-interface.com/vendita/en/interfaces-usb-sd-aux-land-rover/69-land-rover-usb-sd-aux-interface-xcarlink.html http://www.oemautosound.com/p-68-land-rover-auxiliary-input-adapter.aspx http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/103076-how-discovery-2-wired-aux-mp3-audio-input.html I found a page where someone had opened up the head unit, and soldered conectors to the board where the AM radio pins are. Then selecting the AM function gave him mp3 connectivity. Can't find the page now, but I'll keep Googling. It seems the Aussie forums have the most people hacking their stock radios for more modern sounds

I think I'm going to embark on a mad mission involving a plane flight, a lift from the old man, a ferry and 2 border crossings to look at and hopefully return with an 03 manual d2. Desperate, maybe. But perhaps less desperate than buying a vehicle with known issues when what I need is a 'get in and go'.

I haven't swapped anything, it's not my truck. I just test drove it and wondered if some light could be cast upon the issue. I've passed on the good advice I've got here to the guy who owns it. I'm thinking that somehow when changing the oil he must have messed something up. Perhaps he just didn't get quite enough oil in there as I'm not sure how he would have worked through the gears whilst pouring on his own. Either way, as reasonably prices as it is for an ES, I've decided against buying a vehicle needing possibly major work. Instead, I've managed to double my budget by cracking open the emergency/rainy day/university funds so I'll be looking for a 02-04 MANUAL D2, cos auto boxes are too complimicated and confuserating for I.

Could somehow there be a messed up electrical signal to the ecu? No instruction to change gear til high rev range? Isn't it great how all my 'help me threads' get polluted by my own wild theories?

I read about that on the Ashcrofts faq page. Gonna look deeper into that I recon. I wonder, are there non gearbox related issues that could manifest like this? Perhaps an air in fuel issue or something td5-esque like injector seals, gasket etc..?

He changed the oil and filter a week or 2 before the issue occured. Can you screw a box up by changing the oil 'wrong '? He seems a very thorough bloke to be fair, though he doesn't use this forum so I only half trust/respect him!!!

He says he's changed: Airflow meter Injector wiring harness Air filter box Intercooler hoses All filters Tank fuel pump Interior fuse box Some of those thinking it might cure the shifting problem. :/

Well the chassis actually looked pretty good on the old girl. Good bit of surface rust but didn't appear to be delaminating, blowing of thinning anywhere. Gearshifting however....well that's for my OTHER thread.

Should also mention : Tested without maf plugged in, ran terrible - reconnected. Egr deleted Silly little 'red plastic boost box' wired in. Don't know if that could be at fault, screwing up signals to the ecu?

The guy's had it plugged in and no codes showing (apart from clearing the air suspension code after swapping to coils). I'm more concerned about not wasting 1.5k on a lemon at the moment than anything else! Does the description sound like some sort of major box fault rather than a couple of hundred quid fix?

Today I test drove a 99 td5 auto. It revs well up to 4k odd in neutral, only a little touch of the throttle needed, not foot to the boards. When in gear it seems sluggish to up shift. It pulls away smoothly, shifts to second bug then kind of hangs a bit. Wouldn't be much good as a getaway vehicle. If you feather the throttle there seems to be a 'dead spot'. Rev's sit at one mark over 2k until you floor it, it kicks down, revs jump to 3k plus and you get acceleration and up shifting. Seems to drive 'normally' as long as you're giving it welly. If you loose off a bit, at 1 mark below 3k the revs drop down to just over 2k and you find it lacking revs for the selected gear. My thoughts are that either the fly by wire throttle has a dead spot in the middle, or something in the gear box is holding back the engine until it 'lets go' and sorts itself out a bit. Or something else entirely. I'm not really familiar with auto box's foibles. Does the throttle theory sound likely or possible or silly? Fluid in box was changed a week or so before fault developed, did I read somewhere that the 'detergent properties ' of the fluid can stir up cack in the box and cause issues after a change? Possible cause? What else? I can't be buying a total sack of money pit as this needs to be a reliable daily drive.

I tend to be overly paranoid about chassis condition as I'm not a welder myself and once fell foul of a 90 with a bad chassis made to look good. Don't want to make that mistake again. I'll give it extra scrutiny since it's been mentioned on the old mot sheets. I wonder whether the phrase 'slight corrosion' is as innocent as it sounds or a massive understatement...

Presumably even if there are no obvious leaks in the system or dash lights I'll be able to tell if the system is working on a test drive? Will it hang around corners or does it default to a safe mode?

Might be a good bargaining point then. If it is shot, is it just a case of fitting 'normal' anti roll bars (like the ones on my redundant 300tdi disco)? Can you leave all the gubbins in place and disabled? Does the pump need bypassing with a different pulley setup or just leave as is?

I fitted 235s on boost alloys to my 3 door on standard height, very tired springs. I pioneered the 'camel crease' rather than cut the wing as I thought the sharp edge left by cutting was not an ideal finish. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=85847

Active Cornering Enhancement. Thanks Google.

I'm going to have to have a bit of a read up on this ace system. I understand it has something to do with hydraulics, some kind of compensating system to keep level when carrying loads and cornering?

Oh, the exact wording for the corrosion is Vehicle structure has slight corrosion (6.1.A.1) Vehicle structure being chassis,yes?!?