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I got the belt from a very reputable dealer, (Christian autos Bristol), so dont think it's the wrong un. Also ran fine for 3 days. My suspicions are that the pulleys are knackered as I let the squeak develop for a couple of weeks!
I'm going to replace pulleys this week and see how it goes.
Pull the belt, clean the pulleys with a strong solvent and some sandpaper. Make sure the belts are not bottoming. Then it should be fine. Pulleys don't wear out. Are you sure you have it tight enough? A new belt MUST be retightened after a few days. That is normal, as it will bed in.
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Some engines have the temperature sensor in that location, so the looms have the wire. No point is different looms.
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VDO Vision 333-156 is a good choice. Fully adjustable. Nice looking, 4000 rpm.
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Hi Everyone, I read elsewhere on this forum about top class seat covers for a Defender from US company Badger Coachworks. Does anyone know of a UK supplier of these? Or, has anyone experience of ordering from US? Also, anyone know if the seats in the new Defender 110 S/W are the same as previous ones?
Cheers
Mike
The new (2007) seats are completely different.
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Standard theromstat for a 200Tdi is a 88degree,
on the heater connections the hose that runs along the engine should be on the heater matrix rear [nearest bulkhead aka firewall] connection & hose from cylinder head to the forward connection.
Only if it is right hand drive.
Left hand drive is the other way around.......
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you can do it through the ashtray hole if you're prepared to fiddle with it.
Seems weird just one's stopped tho, if you've cleared any blockage, they share the same feed pipe.
Wouldn't an 1988 model have the individual single nozzles on each side? If so, the ashtray won't work....
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... although when running the temp on the guage just ...and i mean just gets up above the c on the meter
Change your thermostat. It is leaking.
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Take the center tranny cover off between the front seats. Have a look/picture of the shift linkages. See where the side to side linkage goes.......
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Being in the USA...
I would suggest Redline MTL for the gearbox.
Any decent gear oil for the axles, t. case and swivels. Being in a wintery area as you are using 75W-90 synthetic of your choice is helpful.
The engine. Any good 10W-40.
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Most likely it will have the 1.6:1 LT230 as mentioned above, which will make the road gearing too low for a 200TDI.
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Try driving down the A39 Porlock hill 1 in 4 with a heavy trailer attached without touching the brakes, they will get very warm regardless of being in a low gear.
Heavy trailers should have their own brakes...
We weren't talking about trailering, but there is always a low enough gear. Do large trucks ride their brakes down steep hills??? I think not.
Strangely enough there are hills around here as well.
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Just don't use your brakes.... Seriously. Choose the right gear. Brake fade while road driving should never happen in a manual gearbox vehicle.
Coming up on 130000 km on the VW and the pads are maybe 25% worn....
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The stock brakes should be quite strong. If you don't feel that they are, they probably need some attention.
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With a Defender, it makes sense to go larger due to the long cable runs compared to a "normal" vehicle. IMO, welding cable is the best choice. It is flexible and has a strong, heat resistant insulation. I'm running 2/0, which calculates out to 0.4 volt drop at 450 Amps for about the run required. The 2 guage would give around 0.85 Volts drop.
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Just been looking around & researching these front mounting points.....seems you are right about the swivel rings only going on winch or heavy duty bumpers!!
But this begs the question, what do I do about recovery points up front then. Haven't got a winch/heavy duty bumper, nor do I plan on getting one.
I see there are those lashing points you guys are on about at the front, but I am assuming that the same applies to these as to those at the back...i.e unsuitable for recovery due to being able to bend?
Is my only option then, another pair of Jate's in place of these?? Can Jate rings fit there?
Martin
ps What the hell are those lashing rings for anyway??!! And whilst im asking probably daft questions....what are the grab handles for!!??
The lashing rings are for tieing the vehicle down for transport on a truck or such.
You can use Jate rings on the front. There are spots behind the bumper for them. Getting a proper bumper is the best choice....
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There are no stock locations to mount them. You would need a strong aftermarket bumper or you would need to reinforce the stock one.
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Coldest drive in my 110 so far is -29°. The heating was, err, doubtful. B)
What needs to be done is to improve the insulation of the vehicle. I have a very well insulated vehicle. It heats up faster inside than any car I've owned. I can easily maintain +20C inside the cab with -20C outside with the heater on the LOW fan speed in my 90 hard top.
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For engine oil, I'm running a 10w40 Amsoil synthetic - it was one of the few synthetic diesel oils I was able to find in town.
See my list of oils above. IMO, the best choice is the Esso Extra XD-3, 0W-40. Full group 4 synthetic diesel engine oil. $23 for a 4 liter jug at any Walmart. A little cheaper at UFA stores (re-branded as UFA Polar Plus). I've been running it for a few years and the oil analysis is very good.
Any time for the lower rad heater. They are the easiest thing to install of any option. It worked fine on my 2.5 NA. The frost plug heaters are a nicer option, but may be hard to install, depending on access. I'm guessing they are around $50. Should be available (on order) through any auto parts store.
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Hi there,
I use this thread to ask a cold-related question: It's been rather cold down here too lately (but not that cold, only -8/-10 celcius) and if I had no problem starting the car and driving, I felt cold on my hip!
Let me explain: When I turn on the heating (such as screen and low arrow), I can definitely feel cold air between the seat and the central box (replacing the third seat of previous versions) near the gears stick. I stuck some gloves or other things for the time being but I'd like to have your opinon about it. Did you experience such situation before and how did you cope with it?
PS: the bottoms-warmer is bliss when it freezes! A must-have in any sub-zero areas!
There are access doors to the outside there under the seats. They must be leaking.
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It "should" start at anything. I dead started my 2.5NA at -35C once. Give it a LOT of glow. Like a minute or more.
However, it is BAD for ANY engine to start dead cold below around -10 C as the oil is too viscous to get to all the bits in the engine quickly. IMO, everything should be plugged in before that.
See the thread on the 200TDI in the North American sectiono of LRA http://www.landroveraddict.com/smf/index.php?topic=366580.0 . There are part numbers for a block heater that will work. You could also put in a lower rad hose heater.... Actually, come to think of it, I have one in the garage that you can have if you want to pop over. I needed to take it out when fitting the air compressor as the belt rubbed on it.
One other thing... Make sure you have a fresh tank of fuel. If you have a tank from the summer, it will gell up and leave you stranded. Using some diesel fuel conditioner with each tank adds some security.
Your biggest problem is lack of insulation....at least when I saw it last. Make sure the heater hot/cold cable is adjusted properly to close the door in the hot position..... I drove mine this morning and it was +20C in the cab when I reached work.
Also....it is a good idea to have a wide range oil in there. 5W-40 as a minimum (Petro-Can Duron Xl, or Mobil Delvac 1) or a 0W-40 (Esso Extra XD-3 or Shell Rotella T SB). A 15W-40 (normal diesel engine oil) fails the SAE cranking test at -20 C. You gain 5 C for each grade, so a 0W-40 goes to -35 C.
Synthetic wider range gear lubes will also help everything else.
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Thanks Les, how about movement up, down, left and right if I was looking at the flange? Should there be any play here and what would the likely diagnosis / cure be if there was? ... I think there is!
Cheers,
Martin
There is not supposed to be any play as the bearing are preloaded.
First check that the pinion nut has not loosened off. If it is tight, you need new pinion bearings. Despite what was said above, it is fairly involved as it requires a press and preload, pinion height and backlash need to be set properly.
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It is only worthwhile getting your oil analized if you do it several times
at equal intervals.
An oil analasys wil tell you the state of your oil but not your engine unless
you continuously monitor it so you can detect changes in the oils content.
Not true at all. The analysis will tell you if the oil is still OK to use. It will tell you how much life is left on it. It will tell you if there is a problem in the system. There is a lot of information to be gained from a single sample.
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IMO, as long as you are using quality, approved lubricant there is no reason to change at any different intervals than the factory recommended ones, including engine oil.
The only exception is if you do any wading. It is alway good to check often for water ingress in that case.
If you are really concerned, have the oils analyzed. It is cheap and will give you confifence that it is fine at the recomneded change intervals.
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The chart I am referring to is entitled compiled by Jim Allen on Four Wheeler and from Land Rover Workshop Manuals but seemingly I have upset someone by inferring what he says is not correct. If Red90 is Jim, sorry if you took it that way, it wasn't intended.
Red90 is not Jim. Red90 is ME and that is my chart on MY website.... The information started out in 1998 using the compiled information from Jim and has since grown based on other available information. As you can see, some springs have "^ Data changed from published value to match those calculated from measurements." and other stuff has been added.
If you have access to a spring and can properly measure it, I can tell you the spring rate. As I live in Canada, accessing new 90s and 110s is not exactly possible......
Biodiesel
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
No common rail engines like biodiesel. With the high pressure pumps, the higher viscosity is a problem.