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200 & 300Tdi glow plug relays have a timer circuit built within the relay. so it'll be factory set when made to a pre-determined time.
No, they have a temperature sensor in the relay module and adjust the glow time based on the outside temperature. They use the ambient temperature at the relay location to determine the required glowing time.
I have mine wired so that the light is on when the plug are energized. There is a large change with temperature. At +5C it is a few seconds, at -10C it is around 30 seconds.
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Sorry, what engine??
On my 200TDI, the really is mounted on the firewall. It contains a temperature sensore which adjusts the glow period depending on the temperature. It also gives a post glow after starting of the same amount of time.
If your plugs are on all the time..... they are probably dead.... The current draw is around 50 to 70 Amps which is enough to max out the stock alternator......
You don't really "need" them for starting until it is fairly cold, say below -5 C depending on the fuel quality, the engine's condition and the battery's condition.
Friends don't let their friends screw with their vehicle's electrics...
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A friend just tested that block heater in a 200TDI and it fits there as well.
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Sorry, but your understanding of physics is a little lacking.
The power requirements have nothing to do with gearing, but wind and rolling resistance only.
With larger tyres giving higher gearing, there is no more power required. It makes the engine run at a lower speed. Whether or not that affect mileage deends on the engine. Engines have an efficiency curve and provide maximum efficiency at certain speeds. For most diesels, higher gearing on the motorway reduces fuel consumption as the higher gearing put the engine closer to its maximum efficiency point. This is why people fitting overdrives find a reduction in fuel consumption. For most engine, maximum efficiency is found near the peak torque point.
The problem with the OP's question is complicated. The gearing increases (which is good), but the wind resistance increases at the same time. In addition, the power required to accelerate the tires increases (slightly).
Where most people get confused is that they use the odometer to check mileage. If you change tyres, the odometer reads incorrectly and it appears that mileage changed quite a bit. Larger tyres make the odometer slow down, so it seems that the fuel consumption increased. If you adjust the mileage figures for the odometer error, you'll fnd little difference.
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the biger the tyre is the more the engine has to turn = more fuel
Ummmm, actually a larger tyre will make the engine run at a lower rpm for the same vehicle speed.....
The main reason for increased fuel consumption is the higher stance and thus increased wind drag. A smaller contributor is the larger, heavier tyre increasing rolling resistance and power requirements when accelerating.
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In general, larger tyres will increase fuel consumption, although you may not be able to tell.
What you need to be careful with is that the speedometer will read differently. If you use the odometer to calculate mileage, your numbers are all wrong.
A 110 with those little tyres must look goofy.
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Engine model?????
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Not on my Genuine LR Retro-fit 200Tdi there isn't. my downpipe welded bracket bolts straight to the block same as the previously fitted TD one did.
As I understand it, the TD retro-fit kit re-used the TD downpipe, so you are talking apples and oranges here.
The production 200TDI downpipe has a bracket between it and the block. You "could" look in the part manual if you wished to see.
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I've watched a car dealer drill one out
not nice for the new owner of the Jeep cherokee
I was just thinking about this some more and there would be no way to prevent the heater tip from falling into the cylinder. That can't be a good thing.
I'd pull the head. Fairly straightforward on this style of engine.
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it should bolt directly to the engine block, there's no spacer or other part in between.
Ummmmm, yes there is a bracket.....
ESR266 - Exhaust mounting bracket.
Could take a picture later, but they don't cost much, so not much point in making your own.
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I've watched a car dealer drill one out
not nice for the new owner of the Jeep cherokee
Not on an aluminum head!! Eeek.....
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All OME springs and shocks are firmer than stock.
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This might help, from Tom Sheppard's book 'The Land Rover Experience'
That loadspace length is for a 3 door hard top, I assume. He'll want to know how long it is for a CSW.
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fwiw I tried britannica restorations but they never got back to me
Phone... It is just one guy... He is there. He is very helpful and fair.
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The R380's design limit is 380nm (hence the name) which is about 280lbft. TDV6 is 325 (?) lb ft not sure about the chipped Td5s I guess some are up towards this figure. I'm guessing that since the R380 is not the strongest gearbox in the world to start with, exceeding its design limit whether its with a Td5 chipped and intercooled, or whatever else, probably doesn't make for 200,000 miles of reliable motoring
I'd be surprised if you couldn't fit a TDV6 with a bit of faffing around the edges. The engine bay has after all had both a straight six (BMW 2.8) and a V8 in it in the past.
They aren't using the R380 anymore...... The engine would come with a gearbox......
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You don't need a larger intercooler to increase fueling. Fueling increases have no impact on the intercooler duty. You have to mess with the turbo for that to happen.
The larger intercooler just keep charge temperatures down when you have extended periods at full boost and higher engine speeds. The can help reduce EGTs if you run in this way.
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I do...
Ping!
Nice idea but much the same problem as the TDV6 would have had in a Defender - nothing else in the drivetrain is strong enough to cope with the torque.
It is just the axles... They "could" put in stronger axles if they wanted to. They do have access to Ford buying power...... They don't have to keep using the same low volume carp that they have been dishing out for decades....
If Jeep can sell diff locked Dana 44 axled trucks for much less than Rover sells a Defender, one could imagine Ford could manage....... -
Yep they work great with any turbo. Even very good with VNT turbos to prevent spikes.
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Tell me about this boost valve of yours!
Cheers.
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Bump...
I have been adjsting the boost on my 200Tdi using pressurised air together with a regulator and gauge. It's been adjusted so the waste gate just starts to open the valve when I have put on 1,1 bar (which roughly would be in the region of 16 psi). The actuating rod has been shortened quite a bit and there is very little movement left when higher pressure is applied.
Can it be that the waste gate spring has lost its "stamina"? Does it happen that the waste gate has to be renewed now and then?
Well, shortening the rod is "really" not the correct way to adjust wastegates. The spring is designed for the factory setting. IMO, a boost valve or similar is a better idea. It will also give better boost control and much easier adjustment.
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That's what I am now worried about
I had the engine running for about 10 minutes, I then took it for a blast only about a mile, the temp Gauge was 4mm under the red line (this has changed since the disco block went in, about normal) I have measured the temp with one of those laser lights (don't know how good they are) and it was about 70 degrees and that was after a good run. perhaps it is working fine.
I did remove the top of the boost bottle after the 1 mile run there was a bit of pressure, but nothing to make the water spurt out, and the water in the bottle was cold (very) don't know if that points towards anything, I know my V8 was totally different.
Sounds like the gauge is not reading correctly. Check the thermostat as well (pull it and put it into boiling water).
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From what I have seen, a Truetrac will be about the same price, so just get one of those. Unless you can get one from a breakers.
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I will give it a boiling water bath tomorrow after a good run and test first
Can you see an reason why there is such a difference between the top hose been hot and the bottom been cold?
Because the radiator is removing all of the heat.... If it is doing that, then the fan does not need to come on. A fan is only needed when the radiator is discharging hot water.
If the engine was overheating, you have a serious problem somewhere else.
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The bottom hose needs to be hot for the switch to turn the fan on. You said it is cold.......
If Jeep can sell diff locked Dana 44 axled trucks for much less than Rover sells a Defender, one could imagine Ford could manage.......
Coil Spring Table Anyone?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Alrighty then Mr Ed....
That is my chart......
If your so unhappy, get out there and find some better data.....
I'll be happy to update the chart as it quite clearly states at the top of the page. Heck, even measure the coils and I'll calculate the spring rates for you.
The REASON newer data is not on there is because LR stopped publishing the spring rates.