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Jamie_grieve

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Jamie_grieve last won the day on June 1 2019

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  • Location
    South Lanarkshire

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  • Interests
    Making noise and mess with off highway toys, trucks and machines.
    Making noise with fiddle, flute and whistle.
    Gold panning and travel.

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  1. Sorry for the late response, I don’t check in very often. Hopefully the PS10 catalogue uploaded OK.
    best regards,

    Jamie.

     

    Santana Parts Catalogue.pdf

    1. FridgeFreezer

      FridgeFreezer

      Thanks - looks good to me, I'll get it uploaded and added to the collection!

  2. Send me a PM with your email address and I’ll send you a copy of the PS-10 parts catalogue. The front axle is a mixture of an early 110 front axle with stage one V8 bits and bespoke swivel housings. They’re larger series type swivel balls than a 110 with the series bolt pattern, heavier steering components than LR parts. The rear axles are a unique kind of Dana 60 / salisbury thing with a removable third member and banjo housing. The steering box isn’t like anything from LR. All the bearings and seals are standard parts and easy to get. The gearbox was an LT85 and an LT230 transfer case with front axle disconnect. The chassis is much stronger than a LR one and is also wider, it’s sort of like a big Suzuki chassis the way it’s made. If you’re in Spain, it probably makes sense.
  3. @Stellaghost Hey, it’s been a while, great to see the progress you’ve made. I have a splitfire ECU and wiring harness and remote oil filter housing sat unused. I ended up going with a 1KZ-TE that I built a manual pump for and the 1UZ-FE got swapped for a spare 1KZ-TE but I still have everything for it, I think…. Anyway, I’m home on leave 24th Jan-8th Feb if it’s any use you can pop over to Crawford and have it as I don’t see me using it now. I’m half way into an LS project if I ever get the chance to do anything to it and I went with megasquirt for it.
  4. Should heritage be a part of vehicle selection process anyway? Surely with the advances in artificial intelligence nowadays we should get better at defining our requirements and have faith in our favourite algorithms selection of vehicle choice for us instead of us relying on lineage as though we were buying a racehorse? Does it really matter if JLR drops the Land Rover name which lets be honest, outside of the UK is not regarded in particularly high esteem and within the UK, will have almost no relevance to anyone’s purchase decision making process? Does national pride in a vehicle manufacturer add value in any way to it? As JLR distances itself from its Land Rover heritage, which will become increasingly irrelevant as time moves on to it as a brand, does it not make sense for it to base it’s heritage on JLR achievements and prowess which I’ll admit, I don’t know what they are? I think calling the new Defender a 120 as part of the brand or pillar building would be a good way of having it making a new identity of its own instead of clouding it with the crude and irrelevant devices from the last millennium.
  5. Copied from the times: Jaguar Land Rover is to drop the 75-year-old “Land Rover” brand in a reboot of the automotive giant, which will also include a relaunch of Jaguar as an electric marque whose models will start at £100,000 a time. The group’s first all-electric Range Rover, built in Solihull in the West Midlands, will also launch in 2024 as the company doubles its investment plans to £15 billion over the next five years as part of a strategy of to end all internal combustion engine models by 2036. Interesting development.
  6. I see the UK Grenadier prices have increased dramatically today. Is that a reflection of the Pound being at it’s lowest level for decades or something else going on? Is it rhe same in other countries? It’s up maybe 12% or thereabouts.
  7. Yes, it won’t have a warranty and will always remain an oddity but I looked at it myself. The trick is to buy a LHD in Dubai or wherever, import it using the LHD loophole, register it then convert it to RHD. Add the cost of parts, the transport, the tax the labour and a few profit margins and it’s not long in mounting up. We don’t have to worry about any of that stuff so they’re a fraction of the price to us.
  8. I’m not sure, Land cruiser is selling 400,000 units per year now and they’re definitely not all high end, the UN is another major buyer that only buys base spec in large numbers, the NGO market is totally tied up in Toyota but it can’t last forever and there’s literally nothing else currently available to replace it with. The Grenadier is as close a thing as any we’ve seen since the demise of the Land Rover.
  9. You guys get hammered on pricing, subject to status and location you can buy a 70 series for around $25k USD, add bar work front, rear and side, a winch and a spares pack with roofrack and it’s around $32K USD or thereabouts. We have around 60 of them on the current fleet I’m inspecting just now.
  10. The canbus, the common rail, plastic engine components and the automatic gearbox. The fin density and positioning of the cooling packs would probably want rethought too if I was being pedantic. The positioning of the steering damper would need to move, the fuel tank would need reworked and probably the rear silencer would need replaced by an auxiliary fuel tank as 90 litres is about half of what we need. It would need a different cheaper much simpler wiring harness and electrical layout. To try to explain all the nuances would be verging on writing a novel but a good example or comparison could be found with construction equipment which are tools and is how I perceive the ROW spec Grenadier to be when they eventually stop fighting the concept, crumble and build it.. You can still buy a brand new Tier one excavator, truck or any piece of plant here in Africa for example. It’ll have an inline pump, no emissions after treatment, no egr or cooler and no crazy computer controlled hydraulics. There just isn’t the technical knowhow or financial investment in tools or training in places where NGO’s work to deal with European levels of complexity. The fuel is also generally adulterated with all kinds of stuff including avgas which destroys the lubricity of diesel, it’s high sulphur fuel anyway, the automatic gearbox needs a special kind of oil distilled from unicorn blood not readily available anywhere despite the prevalence of the ZF 8 speeds now, you can’t drain it fully when you get water ingress, you can’t make it move when the electronics have been fried because you tried jump starting a tank, the interior fittings and finish are also far too exotic and expensive. Don’t get me wrong about the gearbox, it’s truly wonderful in many regards, it’s just no use at all for an NGO. With all that being said, I’ve been over every inch of the Grenadier including under the bonnet and the basic platform is the stuff dreams are made of from an NGO perspective. The chassis, axles, brakes, steering, hubs, suspension components, galvanised body, beefy transfer case are all perfectly fit for purpose. Many parts are easily changed, bolts are big, the potential for a vehicle even more durable than a Land Cruiser is genuinely there if they choose to make it so. It would also be an incredibly safe vehicle from a liability perspective to deploy your staff with and could be easily repaired for the most part from most typical accident scenarios that we encounter. The potential to armour it cheaply is also another massively attractive factor for many of us too.
  11. If you look at real income figures since defenders were in the mid £20k range then there’s been no increase in wages at all. The Grenadier is still more than twice the price of a basic 70 series land cruiser which is the very vehicle it was originally supposed to compete with. Now it’s trying to compete somewhere between that and the 300 series in a kind of no mans land. It’s almost twice the price of a Bronco in the States too which might hurt sales there? I suppose the real nemesis is it directly competes with the pretender which isn’t exactly a surprise but in terms of build quality and filling a niche it’s the closest thing out there. That being said, moving it up market to generate a quick buck still gives me hope that one day when the initial demand is over they’ll do a cheaper more basic rest of world spec for those of us looking for such a vehicle with a more technologically appropriate drivetrain for NGO’s and other users in developing countries as originally promised.. The basic platform was designed with this type of use in mind before they strayed off the straight and narrow to build a vehicle with a wider appeal and let’s be honest, who could blame them/? I think the visit to one of the fleets in Angola I used to manage by a team of Grenadier engineers was the nail in the coffin of that part of the concept where they saw the amount of compromises they would need to make. If it was £40k I would buy one for myself tomorrow as an enthusiast. At £60k for something useable (towbar, diff locks and heated mirrors) I dunno, its a bit of a stretch for me and definitely way out of reach of any of the organisations I work with. It’s been a fascinating journey to follow if nothing else and fair play to them for what they’ve achieved in such a short time.
  12. It’s great to see the progress on this, I dipped out for a while from forums and social media in general but you’re doing some awesome stuff!! You’re also living your passion even if your health is sub optimal too, that’s impressive.
  13. Yeah, half the reason for the air was to use the pressure to weigh it. It’s got heavy, it was never meant to be a lightweight when I decided to build it as a recovery vehicle but it’s 2700 kg now which ties in with what the crane scales say picking up each end. It’s still to get a cage, winches and hydraulics which will add a fair bit too. From the start I’ve been more concerned about the ground pressure than the actual weight. As it stands it’s between 1.5 and 2.5 psi depending where you take it from and around 8psi on the cleats. Now it’s a fully functional proof of concept I would like to build it a new frame or even complete vehicle that’s both lighter and stronger than what’s there. I’ve been trying to scan it and learn about point clouds but haven’t really got into that yet as I also need to learn a modern CAD package that goes hand in hand with it all. It’s amazing how easily it drives over things and how stable it is at the same time. I’m looking at different preloads people use on their coilovers and I know my tide height and full bump pressures so I can hopefully fairly accurately size my accumulators so it doesn’t unload on side slopes like badly set up airshocks can.
  14. https://youtu.be/9Q9cgacecA4 Time for another wee update for anyone still following. I’m looking for input on my suspension. I added double acting hydraulic cylinders to function as suspension components. In this video they’re just charged with air at 115psi but I intend to fill them with oil and use an accumulator on each one. I’m not sure whether to join the ports using the rod as displacement like an air shock but with a Tee piece to an accumulator probably around 800psi or put two accumulators at much lower pressure, maybe 150 top, 30psi bottom per cylinder to keep bump and rebound totally separate without valving? Any thoughts on what the cylinder seals would think of being abandoned for a good while at say 1000psi? That’s my main concern about tee’ing the ports together and running with a higher pressure. It would also allow me to drill the piston and pass fluid internally for a better high speed response, well, relatively speaking obviously, the unsprung weight is around 1300lbs each end. I was also thinking about putting air at the top and oil underneath at maybe 30psi but do wonder how bad the rebound hitting any cavitation might be? Also thinking of using an electric power steering pump to adjust the ride heights, any thoughts on what’s good? A tipper or tail lift one will work too but I’m thinking that a steering pump might be more suitable and easier to package. Feel free to post in the comments any suggestions about suspension valving or fluid or whatever, cheers.
  15. Aw, boo. I really like the look of the spectre ones but if you're not going to invest in the suspension properly and money isn't an issue then I would have to ask if you were comfortable with a vanity project without any real substance? I know that sounds harsh but let me explain. In addition or to expand on what Simon says above which I agree with every word: Firstly if you don't allow for articulation, when you do go off road single wheel movements will be translated into the chassis with massive amounts of body roll and movement instead of the wheel moving and the energy being absorbed by the springs, antiroll bars and dampers, likewise handling on the road would be compromised too. A good well designed antiroll bar will be much stiffer, have longer arms and be able to absorb a lot more energy to release into the dampers than anything from a standard vehicle. All off road motorsports that have any pace at all about them use antiroll bars. If you're not building a rock crawler, trials or winch challenge vehicle then well set up antiroll bars will be on your shopping list. They definitely limit articulation but with a bit more speed the wheel will still move and follow the ground as the antiroll bar absorbs then releases energy like a spring. Secondly, the caster angle of the front axle and the pinion angle both need addressed. You can fling a 2" lift on without worrying about it and I know another 2" doesn't seem much but 4" is all of the droop travel from the standard setup used already. The castor 100% needs fixed if you're going to enjoy spirited driving with the LS fitted (I think fitting your LS to the 110 is a wonderful idea, the 90's too short to enjoy it unless you put longer rear arms on in my opinion). Thirdly, the anti dive / anti squat characteristics of the short radius and trailing arms is also not ideal. I would strongly suggest that you speak to someone about solutions to that too. In addition to the suggestions above, Gwyn Lewis may well have a solution, you posted a link from 4x4 fabrications, Dave could definitely sort you out or there's some young lads who used to frequent this forum called Blackbird industries or even some of the ultra4 or winch challenge guys that also might do a bit of bespoke work and genuinely know what they're talking about. My suggestion would be for longer caster corrected front arms, notch out and strengthen the bit of outrigger that fouls, and longer stronger lower arms on the rear maybe leaving the A frame alone but set the pinion to the new ride height and you won't have any vibrations from bad driveline angles trying to wreck everything. Fourthly, the damper locations and length. If you add 4" to the downward travel of the damper, the top also has to move up at least 4" to account for the new longer damper, that means you need a damper with a lot more stroke plus a bit more to allow for articulation. You also need someone to talk you through the effects of different setups and stiffnesses. Fifthly, Spring length and rate, if you use the standard turret locations then a spring that gives 4" more ride height will either be too stiff or become coil bound on articulation. This is why all the lads running 14" of travel are using coilovers and have the top mounts almost level with the wings. I think coilovers are worth you looking at. Sixthly, bump stops, for a road or high speed biased car you'll want your bump stops sorted too, a couple of lumps of hard rubber aren't going to work for you. To assist the antiroll bars and as part of how the whole suspension works with longer travel you need a way to start to resist large bump movements. Hydraulic bump stops are easily available now and aren't difficult to fit. Seven, if you're running the 37' tyres then definitely some brake and axle upgrades!! I hope there's some food for thought there. Maybe air is an option that when you want the higher stance then you just lift it up and for high speed LS fun you drop it down without any drastic suspension mods at all? That would definitely be the easiest route I think. Mind your longer brake lines too and don't forget to have fun and enjoy the build!!
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