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Jamie_grieve

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Jamie_grieve last won the day on June 1 2019

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    South Lanarkshire

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  • Interests
    Making noise and mess with off highway toys, trucks and machines.
    Making noise with fiddle, flute and whistle.
    Gold panning and travel.

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  1. Aw, boo. I really like the look of the spectre ones but if you're not going to invest in the suspension properly and money isn't an issue then I would have to ask if you were comfortable with a vanity project without any real substance? I know that sounds harsh but let me explain. In addition or to expand on what Simon says above which I agree with every word: Firstly if you don't allow for articulation, when you do go off road single wheel movements will be translated into the chassis with massive amounts of body roll and movement instead of the wheel moving and the energy being absorbed by the springs, antiroll bars and dampers, likewise handling on the road would be compromised too. A good well designed antiroll bar will be much stiffer, have longer arms and be able to absorb a lot more energy to release into the dampers than anything from a standard vehicle. All off road motorsports that have any pace at all about them use antiroll bars. If you're not building a rock crawler, trials or winch challenge vehicle then well set up antiroll bars will be on your shopping list. They definitely limit articulation but with a bit more speed the wheel will still move and follow the ground as the antiroll bar absorbs then releases energy like a spring. Secondly, the caster angle of the front axle and the pinion angle both need addressed. You can fling a 2" lift on without worrying about it and I know another 2" doesn't seem much but 4" is all of the droop travel from the standard setup used already. The castor 100% needs fixed if you're going to enjoy spirited driving with the LS fitted (I think fitting your LS to the 110 is a wonderful idea, the 90's too short to enjoy it unless you put longer rear arms on in my opinion). Thirdly, the anti dive / anti squat characteristics of the short radius and trailing arms is also not ideal. I would strongly suggest that you speak to someone about solutions to that too. In addition to the suggestions above, Gwyn Lewis may well have a solution, you posted a link from 4x4 fabrications, Dave could definitely sort you out or there's some young lads who used to frequent this forum called Blackbird industries or even some of the ultra4 or winch challenge guys that also might do a bit of bespoke work and genuinely know what they're talking about. My suggestion would be for longer caster corrected front arms, notch out and strengthen the bit of outrigger that fouls, and longer stronger lower arms on the rear maybe leaving the A frame alone but set the pinion to the new ride height and you won't have any vibrations from bad driveline angles trying to wreck everything. Fourthly, the damper locations and length. If you add 4" to the downward travel of the damper, the top also has to move up at least 4" to account for the new longer damper, that means you need a damper with a lot more stroke plus a bit more to allow for articulation. You also need someone to talk you through the effects of different setups and stiffnesses. Fifthly, Spring length and rate, if you use the standard turret locations then a spring that gives 4" more ride height will either be too stiff or become coil bound on articulation. This is why all the lads running 14" of travel are using coilovers and have the top mounts almost level with the wings. I think coilovers are worth you looking at. Sixthly, bump stops, for a road or high speed biased car you'll want your bump stops sorted too, a couple of lumps of hard rubber aren't going to work for you. To assist the antiroll bars and as part of how the whole suspension works with longer travel you need a way to start to resist large bump movements. Hydraulic bump stops are easily available now and aren't difficult to fit. Seven, if you're running the 37' tyres then definitely some brake and axle upgrades!! I hope there's some food for thought there. Maybe air is an option that when you want the higher stance then you just lift it up and for high speed LS fun you drop it down without any drastic suspension mods at all? That would definitely be the easiest route I think. Mind your longer brake lines too and don't forget to have fun and enjoy the build!!
  2. You hit the nail on the head there, the whole purpose of this thing is purely for entertainment and I find it's just not as entertaining if it doesn't move. At some point it's going to need completely stripped back to the chassis and rebuilt properly before it can actually travel anywhere. I've been surprised at the axles holding up as well as they have but that can't possibly last as it gets heavier, the lower half shafts are only 45mm in diameter. I keep second guessing myself that I should have got crossplies instead just because they're so much lighter with much less inertia to break stuff.
  3. Not really an update because it's been abandoned all year but I had a visitor: I think he did a great job of editing it, especially considering who and what he had to work with!! With hindsight we should probably taken it into the woods for the video. I cringed the whole way through watching it with how rough it is but here it is warts and all. I'm embarrassed by just how ghetto it is but keeping it moving so I can play with it is more important to me than finishing anything. I definitely realise that it's more about a series of projects within projects rather than a vehicle build, well, of course, any vehicle build is a series of projects but I mean, the hydraulics will be a totally separate thing to the suspension to the cooling to the winches to the cage, then there'll be axle upgrades and a load of finishing that might never happen.
  4. This is the funniest thing I have ever read, you win the internet for today!!
  5. Exactly, people who never had an overdrive don't know what they're missing out on here.
  6. Ooooohhh yeeess you aaare An engine isn't a drivetrain, the engine is shared across the whole BMW lineup. Just because randomly the X5 happens to have 4 driven wheels doesn't make it any more of a valid comparison. It's especially significant because the Grenadier team has gone to all the bother of putting together a decent looking bespoke transfer case with bespoke axles which are the beating heart and identity of any 4x4 (as opposed to the engine in a sports car perhaps?) and you trivialise it to reworked X5 components, that's my point. Aaaanyway, away from pedantic arguments, what were your thoughts on the overall ground clearance and rear scoop? My opinion of the ground clearance is that it'll struggle in deep mud and snow but that's a sacrifice to many various design constraints and I can see and accept that. The fuel tank needs a bit of reworking and the rear scoop is frankly ridiculous on a vehicle with so many decent engineers involved.
  7. You're totally missing my point. It's your comment on drivetrain that's misleading and it wasn't an analogy. With the exception of the engines which are in about 20 different BMW's and the ZF gearbox which is in literally hundreds of different vehicles around the world including the new defender, there's no communality between the X5 and the grenadier. I think it's that he grenadier has such a different and unrelated layout and not merely 'reworked' was my main issue as the X5 is an SUV with independent suspension without low range and is as (ir)relevant to the grenadier componentry as a 3 or 5 series saloon.
  8. I think that's a little misleading, the engine and gearbox are X5 (B57or B58 coupled to a ZF 8HP70) but the transfer case is bespoke, the propshafts are bespoke and the axles are Carrera. I'm maybe being a little pedantic.
  9. That’s the error message I get when I try to open or download the whole blue book or the section with the contents: I hate things like this that should just be easy and work yet don’t. I almost came a cropper as not all the dies for the JD model 32 have a bend radius over 3 times the radius which is required in the ALRC regulations that Chicken Drumstick posted above and I’m sure were the basis of the MSA regulations I’m looking for.
  10. I must be retarded or something but that’s exactly what I was trying to do and still can’t see anything about roll cages. Can you give me a page number or link to the relevant section please? I seem to only be able to look at individual sections. Trying to download the whole blue book on Safari or Firefox doesn’t work either on the computer or ipad.
  11. I tried a few different search queries but nothing came up. It would definitely be a handy resource but it would need kept current and up to date to be useful, especially the EV regulations which will probably see a constant stream of updates for the next few years.
  12. Hmmm, yeah, I was thinking that, the Sumb shafts are the perfect size, just the wrong spline count for being a handy source of short rear mog shafts.
  13. Thanks for that, I’m sure it exists electronically nowadays and it’s just my own ineptitude preventing me from finding it!! Whilst I have you there, I didn’t want to mess your thread up with silly questions and comments but can you remind me please if your 404 half shafts are 8 or 10 spline? I’m thinking they’re 8 spline but I forget as I work on so many different things. The reason I was asking is that the Simca Sumb ones are an almost identical size but are 10 spline.
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