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Hi Snailracer and all, I love my 200TDI in my series 3. I would do it all over again... It was pretty easy, really. If you decide to go diesel, the hardest part is working out ahead of time how you want to do the install... Landy engine or <cough> non-Landy (Why?) engine... OK, so I am a little partial... 200TDI or 300TDI... (each with advantages and disadvantages) With or without turbo... With or without intercooler... which radiator to use... which alternator to use... How to route and fit the exhaust. Oh, So many choices... Anyway, AndyB was kind enough to post a link to my install... with my preferences for each... I'm not saying mine is better than anyone else's, there are quite a few good installs out there, mine just works for me, within my budget, and to my taste. I say decide what you want out of your Landy and build it your way... I made sure my gearbox was like new to handle the power, and I don't drive it like an idiot. With the Ashcroft box and 4.70 series axles, I average 35.4 miles to the imperial gallon around town. When I can keep it in 4th for awhile, it is up near 38. Maybe someone can explain something to me, as I am feeling a bit daft about this engine choice issue... I'm not sure why one would choose a non-landy engine... Maybe someone can educate me... The 200TDI bolts right in to the gearbox and chassis, There are only 5 wires to connect, a choice on radiators and intercoolers, and an exhaust is easy to work out. 200TDIs are becoming easy to find with less than 100,000 miles on them for around 300 GBP, or less. So for less than 1000 GBP you can drive a TDI at 35 to the gallon in the series. If you want to fiddle with mounts a bit, then the 300TDI becomes an option... and it still bolts up to the gearbox...

Graham, Glad to see you are getting on with the install. It's been a bit of time coming...

Graham, I had to change the belt on mine in the vehicle as well. That bolt is mighty tight! I used a big cheater bar on the end of the breaker bar.

Monster, I've looked at your pics close up as well. Your mounts look to be at a similar level to mine. As long as the engine and gearbox/transfer box are square in the chassis you should be fine. Others have sucessfully used alternate gearbox/transfer boxes in the series trucks and relocated the engines fore and aft in the chassis, with no problems. Yours looks good so far.

Hi Monster, My motor mounts are also not at the same level. I thought this was strange, but that's the way it works out. I measured my engine side to side as it sits in the frame. On the Left side, 11 inches from the inside of the frame rail to the center of the crank bolt. On the right side, there is 14 1/4 inches from the inside of the frame rail to the center of the crank bolt. These are the same measurements you have.

One additional thing, I would love to see other 200TDI conversions. Even though mine works well, I am sure there are things that can be improved upon and/or done differently. I don't knock any of the other conversions, in fact I studied them in great detail before embarking on mine... I found some very useful and ingenious ideas to solve the problems that will be enountered. Don't forget to take lots of pics along the way. It may help the next guy/gal that decides to TDI their Landy.

Thanks Monster... My responses are highlighted below Hi, I take it all is going well and you are pleased with your conversion. I am overjoyed with the conversion. My milage is nearly doubled over the 2.25 diesel. the last tank averaged 7.8 miles to the liter (35.4 miles to the imperial gallon). Not bad for a vehicle with the aerodynamics of a brick. Great writeup also. Thank you. I am currently embarking on a 200tdi conversion on my lightweight hybrid and plan to use the discovery mounts. I have a few questions i hope you can help me out with. I take it you have kept the original 4speed series gearbox. (I am planning to use the LT77 5 speed.) Did you have to move your gearbox (mounts) across? I did use the series gearbox, and it is holding up nicely, but then again, I don't abuse it either. I did not move the gearbox mounts at all. I used them to line up the engine in the chassis. I have not installed the LT77 in a series to see how the mounts/position differ. My reason is this. In the 110 the crankshaft bolt is 15" from the drivers side. This uses the normal 4cyl setup. The centre of the handbrake drum is 71/4" With the discovery mounts lined up in my lightweight the crankshaft bolt sits a further inch closer to the driver side at 13 3/4. To make the gearbox parellel to the chassis the centre of the handbrake sits at 6 1/4. Does your gearbox sit parellel to the chassis? Or is the series engine/gearbox sides more to the driver side like that of the discovery? I will assume that you have a UK spec (right hand drive Landy) to answer this. I intended to line up the 200TDI to the same location of the 2.25. I wanted a slight (approximately 1 inch) upward tilt as measured at the front of the crank. You can check this by looking through the hole in the front chassis crossmember that is used for the hand crank starter. (BTW, I don't know anyone strong enough to hand crank a 2.25 diesel)... ANYWAY... I did this to increase clearance between the oil return bung that is welded to the right side of the oilpan. If you move the engine toward the Right side of the chassis (driver side of a UK spec) you will compound the problem. Mine is still too close for my lliking, but has not interfered with the propshaft, yet. Soon, I will pull the oilpan and relocate the bung to a more suitable location. Take a good look at this clearance on yours. I would jack up the Right side of the front axle, with the propshaft in place, and make sure there is sufficient clearance. I suspect that there will not be. If you have parabolic springs, you may be ok. I see from your photos, the driver side engine mount has a bit cut out to allow space for the chassis mount. Whats the reason for this? I would have thought being as both were disco they would have met together nicely. I did not use the chassis side of the disco mounts. I made my own. The cut outs were needed because I used oversized steel plating to make the chassis side of the mounts. They are bigger than the factory Disco mounts. You suggest that the series radiator is bigger. Does this mean bigger than a discovery version? I have no need for the oil cooler as i plan to use a seperate as you have done, but was thinking it would be more efficent. I also read somewhere that any radiators of a given size, the horizontal tubed version was more effective than the vertical tubes The series radiator does have a larger surface area than the Disco radiator. All things being equal, more surface = more cooling. I have not read of any difference between horizontal and vertical cooling tubes. If you have a source I would be curious to read it... What I have read states that the reason that car companies switched to horizontal tubes was to allow for lower profile hoods on vehicles while maintaining cooling capacity. I can say that the series radiator has no problems cooling a 200TDI, in the heat and towing. I turn the cooling fan on occasionally just to make sure it still works. Another factor to consider is when using a seperate oil cooler, other than one in the radiator, the radiator has that much less heat to dissipate. I use an Earl's oil cooler and ordered it from Summit Racing in the states. It fit perfectly in the area I wanted and does a great job. Finally, i plan to make my own exhaust. Where did you get your flange that fits onto the turbo from? I used the exhaust flange from a 300TDI downpipe. It is the right size and pattern to bolt to the 200TDI turbo exhaust outlet. I have also read that the TD5 flange is the same bolt pattern. I hope you dont find my questions demeaning, my intention is not to pick holes in your conversion but to understand the advantages/pitfalls of each concept and see which would suit my application best. I don't mind the questions at all. If you have any more, feel free to ask. Thanks for any advice and insight. You are very welcome, any time. Ray

Nice set-up... Looks like it is quite functional, and fun I am curious about a couple of things... How did you do your 4 wheel discs? Is it a kit or home built? What is the original application for the springs you used?

Well, consider this, the reason the K&N is so popular is because it flows more air... To achieve this, there are larger "holes" in the filter which allow a little larger particle of dirt to pass compared to the paper filter. But at what point is it detrimental? Funny thing about the K&N... It will actually filter better when it is dirty... LOL. But it will also be more restrictive than when it was clean. The K&N theory is that the oil on the filter will help attract the dirt rather than let it pass... and in turn creating smaller holes to filter the air better... I have a Cummins Turbo Diesel that I use a K&N on, and after over 150,000 miles I have no regrets and no problems with the engine... <knock on wood> Added benefit is the K&N makes alot more power than the paper element. (go figure) I say if you want to run the K&N, run it...

Tuko, Any measurements or pictures you can share would be greatly appreciated...

Wow!!! Great score! I wish I could fall into deals like that... Glad to hear it's all coming along... I just heard about a 60th anniversary get together for next month in Billings... Are you looking to attend? It would be a good trip for the 2a

Never mind... found it... I might have to attend this one...

At risk of sounding really ignorant, what/when is Billing?

David, Your 2A is coming along nicely... Nice idea on the filter rotation... I really like the series 3 you picked up. Let me know if you come across another roof like what is on the 3. I've been looking all over up here for one, but haven't found one close by yet...

I thought you were going to use the TDI air filter... Are you planning on something else? I am anxious to see what you come up with... Although mine is functional, it is quite large...

Looking good Todd... Glad to see you got some more time to spend on it.

David, Here is some info to check out. on the topic... http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/index.html#brake Here is a thread from someone that did a DIY setup. I'm not sure of the legality of such a mod, but it is still good info, if nothing else shows how much work would be involved in a DIY setup... http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=22910

David, Glad to hear you are happy with the diffs. I have family visiting until the end of the month, and then I am going to change my rear diff out. The ringing in my ears was just too much yesterday. A couple of things to check on... If you have a GPS, work out your new Speedo readings... Tonk does have a point on the brakes... Consider that you never drove above say 45 before, but now the truck will comfortably cruise at 55... That extra 10 mph can make a big difference when you hit the binders... It would really suck to destroy all the work you have just completed.

Great job. So what is in it's future???

Les, Seems to me the diff would then be on the wrong side of the truck... so you couldn't line up with the Transfer case... or did I miss something???

Well, I finally achieved the milage mark of 8 miles to the liter on the last tank... B) time for a new goal. Maybe 9??? I just returned from a 132 mile round trip for some new (to me) diffs. Thanks, David The Landy ran great down and back... The engine runs fine, I was even able to pass traffic on the M11. My only issues lie within the rest of the truck... My current rear diff has a bearing that sings quite impressively at 60~65. It's somewhat deafening after listening to it for an hour straight each way. There are a few vibrations that have to go as well. It's safe to say my Landy left me all a tingle from the trip.

Graham, Since hind sight is always 20/20... replace the rear main seal while you have the 200TDI out. I didn't on mine (I strapped for time) and I have a nice little leak to contend with... and don't forget to change the timing belt, once you have the engine in.

Yes, that is what you want to use. The series clutch and pressure plate bolt up to the 200TDI flywheel. Enjoy

David, Call me on 01638 58 3707, we can talk through specifics...

David, It sounds like you are talking about the vacuum resevoir canister. It is not needed with the 200TDI. If you have vacuum assisted power brakes, then just connect the vacuum pump on the 200TDI directly to the brake vacuum assist diaphram.