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If you plan on using it off road and want an accurate speed meter, the high range transfer box is the answer, if you don;t care about either low range off road or an accurate speedo, then 3.54 diffs will sort it out.

Hi Todd, it's been about 5 months since you finished the work... How about giving a rundown on the good and the bad... You mentioned exhaust... Have you worked out an alternative route? How is the fuel economy now? How are the engine vibrations (something everyone is concerned with) BTW, during my chassis swap, I reverted back to series engine mounts vs disco mounts on my 200 tdi. Not much difference (for those that care)... Are you thinking about putting the turbo back on, or are you satisfied with the normal aspiration? I know the "Di" conversions at Glencoyne have alot more low-rpm grunt over my "tdi" because they don't have a turbo restricting the flow. any other bits and bobs? BTW, did you ever get a replacement input shaft?

I used a seperate oil cooler and the series radiator as well. It works great. I also installed a 300TDI intercooler on the other side of the radiator panel. Almost 2 years now and no problems...

Here is a picture of the lost Landy. The reg is SVS 0704

I hope to have a pic tomorrow to update. It belongs to where my wife works.

A shiny black 2007 Defender 110 with luggage rack was stolen from the Mildenhall, Suffolk area Sunday night/early Monday morning. It has custom plates starting with "FSS 07". If you see this vehicle, contact 01638 54 2667.

With the availability of replacement parts, I would replace it for one that doesn't have any play... The 300s additional power and torque may make short work of a substandard part. It would really suck to put it together and use it, only to have it fail at a most inopportune time.

Ahhh, now I understand. I just looked at my spare. It should not move. Time to replace that shaft. The good news is that you have a good clitch alignment tool now...

Todd, If I understand the question... when the primary pinion shaft is installed in the bellhousing, there is movement (up/down side to side) in the shaft? Is the mounting bearing new? Seems to me that, when in position in the vehicle, the shaft is supported by the spigot bush in the front, and the bearing, in the bellhousing, at the rear. With the bellhousing mounted to the engine, there should be minimal up/down movement of the shaft. If there is, then the spigot bush or bearing (or both) must be renewed. Hope this helps. Ray

I don't mean to hijack a thread, but pardon the pun, but I have a Dumdum question. Why use this stuff for setting glass in a Landy vs silicone? A few months ago, I used black silicone to seal up my rear door glass in my 88" because of the leaks. The sealant that was there (in some places) was not sealing the glass at all and through most of the area, it was flaking out in big chunks. Same thing with the side glass in the doors... Am I missing something here? besides, dumdum is alot messier to work with than silicone.

My 2 pence worth... Engines are big air pumps. The easier it is to pump air in and out, the more power is available for moving a vehicle. I have 2.5" exhaust with a free flow performance muffler and a K&N type air filter on my 200TDI. loads of power, good economy. If I were to build a 200DI, I would run a 2" exhaust for the power. The 200DI has great grunt down low, probably peppier than my TDI (before the turbo spools up) because it doesn't have the turbo restriction in the exhaust. But they tend to lag a bit at the top with the small stock exhaust. Seems to me that if your Landy spends most its time below 3000 rpm, then the stock exhaust should provide adequate performance. If it spends more time on on the motorway above 3000 rpm, a bigger exhaust would be an improvement in performance, and maybe milage. Its really up to the driving habits of the owner... ok, back to my corner now...

Todd, I understand completely. It is a bit of a shame you can't use the turbo, but there is nothing wrong with a non-turbo diesel. I've seen quite a few DI conversions here and any one of them still beats the 2.25 in either diesel and gas forms. Glad to hear it is working out so great. Ray

Tuko, That's not bad at all. I have the Ashcroft High range transferbox, 7.50 tires and 200TDI in a series 3. It does a consistent 7.8 miles to the liter (35.4 miles to the British gallon; 29.5 to the US gallon). Most of my driving is short trips around town at 30 mph or less, with occasional jaunts on the "A" roads at 60ish. Ray

If you have enough air passing through the radiator to spin the fan, it will keep the rad cool. If hot days return like we had in 2006, you "may" need to turn the fan on in stop and go traffic, but I think the original radiators cool pretty well on their own.

Todd, you are seeing the fan correct. And yes, it does move massive amounts of air. It just happened to be a spare from my wife's BMW that I had kicking about. I don't have a need to use it, at least not here in the UK with the modest temperatures. I will eventually move to warmer climates and want to have it available if needed. I intend to use my 88 off road for hunting/fishing/camping, and the places I like to visit are often off the beaten path requiring low range 4 wheel drive with moderate RPM and slow speed. If the ambient air temp is approx 35 degrees Centigrade, it would be nice to know that I have a fan to move air past the intercooler and radiator to keep the engine temp down where it should be. I would rather have too much fan, than not enough. Here's an updated pic with the intercooler installed in the radiator panel

Shinias, I'm not a BMW engineer, or a fan engineer so I can't speak to why BMW mounted my fan in front of the BMW A/C condenser to spin Clockwise as a pusher fan. It may be a more efficient unit rotating the other way... but it moves an incedible amount of air in current configuration. I just transplanted it to a little series truck to keep the radiator cool. It seems to be able to do that. Thanks for the info though.

Graham, Another thing I forgot to add. The voltage stabilizer for my gauges recently went bad. My temp gauge started climbing and it appeared that the truck was overheating. My fuel guage has never been accurate so I did not notice a change on that one. After changing thermostats, verifying that the radiator was good, and using the cooling fan, I decided to check the stabilizer... Turns out the output was 11.76 volts. It should be 10 volts! I replaced it with a 7810 electronic voltage regulator and it cured my "overheating". My guages now read accurate. Yours may be fine, but I would check that the voltage stabilizer for the gauges is good before "fixing" other things that aren't broke.

The fan is from a K reg 740 BMW. The fans were also used in the 5 series BMW. From what I have found, they were used in the 88-95 BMW 5 & 7 series with air conditioning. We have a K reg 7 series that needed a new A/C condensing unit... I spent more than a bit of time in my local scrappy. Really easy to fit as well.

I have a BMW Air Conditioning "pusher" fan. It covers the radiator and moves LOTS of air. It also has the resistor for high and low speed operation. My 200TDI runs cool enough that it never gets used. I spin it up from time to time just to keep it operational.

Ole, I feel your pain. I have tried to cure mine for the last year... I finally fixed it last month. I used two standard "O" rings on each shaft in the end to stop the leaks. Two for each shaft will fit in the recess for the squared "O" rings that come in the gasket and seal kit. If you have the squared ones, save yourself the frustration and pitch them in the bin now.

true for the most part, but the motor mounts need to be fabricated with a 300, where as the series mounts bolt up to the 200.

I went with a 200TDI and love it every bit. The intercooler plumbing is needed for both TDI engines, and an exhaust system must be fabricated/bought for either. You can buy an exhaust for the 200TDI, or you can make one like I did, but I don't know of a bolt in exhaust for the 300TDI. the 200 TDI engine bolts into the chassis and gearbox, but the 300 does not. Tuko can provide specifics on the 300. As mentioned earlier, either motor is a dramatic upgrade to the 2.5.

I did my series 3 with the series radiator and a seperate oil cooler... see this for more details: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=25059&hl=

Gary, I used the Disco mounts, but it does require cutting and welding to the chassis. If your chassis is not galvanized and you have the ability, it might be worth it. Otherwise, just use the stock mounts with the Defender 200TDI rubbers. The tap size IIRC was M10. Here are a couple of threads on how to deal with the cover to gearbox... http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/200tdiconversion.htm and http://www.glencoyne.co.uk/200di2.htm There are numerous threads for install into a series IIa and series III... Enjoy.

It sounds like you are wanting what a buddy of mine is building HERE As his well suited title suggests, alot of time and money...