rjblank

If the charge light is on, then you are most likely not charging... Use a multimeter between the battery posts with the vehicle running to verify. Should be between 13 and 14.5 volts DC. Check your accellerator rods to make sure that none are rusty and sticking. There is a spring at the injection pump, on the same lever that the throttle cable attaches. Make sure the spring is still there...

Tom, On the Series 3 vehicles, to operate the glow plugs, you have to turn the key part way between run and start and hold it there. If the glow plugs have been changed out for parrallel replacements, then the light on the dash will barely glow, as I found out on my series 3 diesel. The "stop" cable on the column has a symbol on it resembling a choke cable of a gas version. On mine, pull it out and the engine dies, turn the key to start, and the cable snaps in due to spring pressure. If you have air in the injector lines (which you may since you have a diesel leak) you will also get the grey smoke and a miss. Definitely want to have that fixed first... Ray

No, I made my own... At the oil cooler, I have Aircraft A/N fittings... At the engine end, I cut the oil pipes off, just at the hose fitting, and went to the local hydraulic hose supply and picked up about 2 meters of 1/2 inch ID hydraulic hose. you will need some really good hose clamps to keep the hose on the pipe with no leaks... I doubled my clamps and it worked well. I will be picking up fittings to adapt the engine side to the same aircraft A/N fittings in the spring.

LOL... I suppose if you have enough room you could mount it back there... I have also thought that maybe centering the oil cooler, on it's side, in front of the radiator, and stacking the oil cooler on top might work for the series 2a... It would involve modifying the inlet and outlet pipes of the intercooler... I'm sure there are places that can weld aluminium...

Chris, I found a thread on another site that may give you some ideas... ideas are always good, right? It involves modifying the intercooler... then again, a trip to the scrappy may yield an intercooler that is better suited... http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.php?t=86475 good luck... I am interested to see how you tackle that critter...

The oil cooler doesn't matter which end you mount up... It just needs air to pass through it. I did see an install of an intercooler in a Series IIa that was quite impressive... I'll have to look and see if I have a link somewhere. Cheers rjb

Chris, I had the same problem... You don't need a big one for the TDI... I am using a small cooler with my mine... 5 inches x 8 1/4 inches x 2 inches. It's been in for about a year. No problems, plenty of cooling, and it fits in the small space above the steering relay... If you want to see additional pics, http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=25059

I'm about 5 minutes from Mildenhall Town center. I'll drop a line when I get back...

I will be back the 1st of Feb... That may be too long for you. It looks like you are in the same area as I am (Mildenhall). You are more than welcome to check mine out when I return...

I have the disco mounts in my 88" series III, 200TDI. Shortly after I installed the TDI, I saw Snagger's TDI. They were about the same on vibration. Since that time however, through driving and cleaning the injectors, the engine runs noticeably smoother than it did when I first installed it. I would be interested to have another comparison done. I have seen a few of the TDI installs with the series mounts... some are smoother than others, som will rattle your teeth out at idle...

Snagger, it really sounds like you have either the floor panels or bulkhead coming into contact with the engine/gearbox, possibly due to misalingment of the engine in the chassis, under the conditions you specify (full load/accelleration and bumps). I had some of this with my Landy,, but it turned out to be a slightly bent center floor panel that was contacting the shifter...

Todd, When I did mine, Richard, from Glencoyne Engineering, told me that the petrol switch is what you want/need for this. The terminal in question feeds the ignition system on a petrol, which needs power for the coil on both "run" and "Start"... That's good that you had the switch...

Todd, if you have a multi-meter, and an assistant, you can check at the back of the switch. In the Ohms scale, connect one of the test leads to the terminal that the main power comes in (brown wire) and the other lead to the ignition lead (white wire). In the "Off" position you shpould not have a reading. Have your trusty assistant turn the key to the "Run" position, you should have "0.00" resistance. Have the trusty assistant turn the key to the "Start" position, you should have the same reading as in the "Run" position, "0.00". If not, you will need a different switch. Good luck...

todd, Looks pretty good... You won't burn anything up... Don't forget to splice the fuel shutoff switch into the white wire from the ignition switch/glow plug timer...

Well, that sounds very over-engineered... a relay to operate a relay...

Todd, according to the wiring manual I have, there should be a white/red wire that connects from the ignition switch to the small blade post on the starter solenoid. The front of the solenoid is a relay itself. There shouldn't really be a need to add another relay... but I suppose you can. If you are going to use a seperate relay for the starter, it will need to be a high amp relay, something that will handle roughly 800 amps. I'm not sure the A/C relay will handle the load.

Todd, the Brown/Red wire you speak of may be the wire that feeds the chassis (keyswitch) with voltage. without it, you have no control of the engine, and the Landy will not have any volts. I'll have to look at my wiring diagram close tomorrow...

That should be a great install. I'll be looking forward to seeing pictures.

Todd, Sorry, I didn't intend to mislead that the TD5 pipe would work, but the flange is the proper shape and hole pattern. The 300TDI pipe is also a different shape, but the flange bolts on to the 200TDI Turbo. The 200TDi comes with a cast downpipe that is simply a pain to try to weld to. I cut the flange from the pipe and welded my own pipe to it. It worked out for me since I used 2 1/2 inch pipe for the exhaust. Since you used the 300TDI in your truck, I would have thought that the Defender 300TDI pipe would have worked for your application. Also, the bigger pipe will help keep the exhaust temeratures down and help the longevity of the turbo.

Hi Monster, The series radiator works very well. I have mounted the factory series expansion bottle to the other side of the radiator. I have included a pic. you can see it mounted to the right side of the pic. I used an adapter for the series temp sending unit and the series temp guage. On your oil temp guage, you would be best using a sender that is matched for that guage. Where did the cluster come from? Disco or aftermarket?

here are some detailed photos of the fan install.

I have a BMW 740 pusher electric fan on mine, but it runs so cool that I don't ever have to turn it on... It fills up the whole radiator and fits perfectly in the radiator panel. I have pics in my 200tdi thread.

Graham, I guess I missed why the rad is mounted so hi to begin with... ???

Graham, Looking good... When I did mine, I changed my oil and filter befire firing the first time. I left the wire off of the fuel distributor while I cranked the engine, to make sure I had oil pressure, and no leaks, until the oil pressure light went out. Then connected the fuel distrubutor wire, and it started first bump... That way you prime the fuel and oil pumps at the same time, and can check for leaks before it starts running...

Good luck on the 45 mpg. Let us know how it works out. I would love to get 40+ mpg... If the gearbox would hold it, I would combine RRC diffs with the Ashcroft box... That might get me near 45mpg... It would definitely drop the revs, but I think it would put too much strain on the gearbox. For the Landy owners across the pond... You have quite a few engine/gearbox combo options that would eliminate the weak gearbox link...