Jocklandjohn

Welcome Mick! PS Believe it or not Western can tell you the actual parts numbers for everything that goes into Ribena, from memory! And that was a misprint from ThreePointFive - he meant 'sedated'.

Ok just found this, which is curious indeed as these are Monroe Gas Adventure M/D6628 & 6629 same as mine, so I'm not alone:

Yes! Although they did come out of the box the wrong end up, so I had to turn the Land Rover upside down to fit them, but now that they're on and I've turned the van back round I can see its all looking ok. 🙂 Just inspected the bump check (lower) and there's a fresh mark on the slight oily patch that was there, with the corresponding oily residue on the rubber above on the bump stop. So definitely hitting. And lying there and pulling on the van I can see it comes down pretty easily so with the vehicle front end weight coming down it looks very likely to hit. Current clearance is just under 2 inches between rubber and lower steel check on the axle, but I've no idea how that compares to 'normal'.

Thanks, thats my conclusion - ride quality is very nice, including cornering but they seem to not handle the weight-loading when it happens with any sort of progression/control. They'd need to have been sent from the factory in the wrong boxes (not impossible) as they matched the Monroe website listing which is 110 specific Sadly the old shocks went in the bin and are gone. I think I might put some chalk/paint on the bump stop and see if it gets onto the axle - if not then you're right the shock is bottoming out (which is odd, but possible).

Mind you it might be worth my putting some paint on the stop and seeing if it shows up on the axle, just in case you're correct and I'm way off the mark!

Pretty sure its the stops - I can feel the whack and the axle shimmies a bit which I can feel in the steering. All the bushes etc are fine, relatively recent (greasable) track rod ends installed and well greased (last week). Previously the whole front end would go down and gently slow then rebound (with the Armstrongs) but now it goes down more easily and not as progressively and 'thumps'. I'd not expect new shocks to have (apparently) so little progressive damping. I can recall fitting the Armstrongs and compressing them to get them inside the springs and the self-extension was very strong to the point where it was a struggle compressing them again to get the bushes in, when they were actually inside the springs. The Monroes were really easy to compress and it was signficantly and noticeaby less bother.

I did give them several pull/push cycles but not for very long. Initial 'easy' movement got a good bit more resistence with a few cycles. Always puzzled me that, I'd assume that the action of actually 'working' on the vehicle would achieve the same? The ride feels very nice I must say, it doesn't feel too wallowy on corners, its just considerably easier to whack the bump stops - I was doing 15mph off a speed 'table' with a fairly insignificant ramp-off tonight and it was enough to clip the stops. Never ever experienced that in ten years with the Armstrongs doing the same thing on that table. Checked the Monroe website too and I have the correct spec for the vehicle. (110, 1989, no winch etc).

I upgraded my springs and shocks ten years ago, fitting plain old Armstrong OE dampers and proper LR springs as are fitted as standard - front white/white etc. Its been splendid, rides beautifully and with air bags in the rear very adaptable. Shocks were well past their best so I replaced them last week. I wanted the same Armstrongs again but none to be found anywhere so instead got a set of Monroe Gas Adventure. It is now very bouncy! The rears were done first and I could feel considerably more movement, but when I changed the fronts its become a bit disconcerting because eg where before I could go over the speed bump with a gentle whuffle (at modest speed, nothing silly) I'm now actually hitting the bumpstops at the front with an obvious clunk. Would this suggest that the springs are also past their best?

I've got a Steca charge controller which controls the two battery setup off a solar panel, and which can "split -charge" the batteries, and deliver 90% of the incoming charge from the panel to one battery & 10% to another at the same time. It also has an output (load) facility so I've wired the fridge to that. In practice what happens is the solar input maintains the two batteries state of charge, and powers the fridge whilst sufficient current is incoming. Then when the solar input drops, the controller switches over to power the fridge from your second (aux) battery (protecting your starter battery), and if the voltage on the aux battery drops below a certain level (the point where it would damage the battery) the controller shuts the fridge off. An additional plug-in deivce enables lots more functions but the basic unit is pretty mucch fit and forget. Here: https://www.steca.com/index.php?Steca-Solarix-2020-x2-en

I parked my 110 up once (away from home), left it three days, and it did that, all the power steering fluid came out. Called breakdown, who took me to a garage, and the mechanic said |"Well before we dismantle anything lets just fill it and run it and see where the leak is...". So filled the reservoir, engine on, and turned steering left/right for ten minutes solid (on a lift so we could see underneath) and not a single drop came out. After 30 minutes I set off the 130 miles home, never lost a drop and it stayed like that for another 5 years without problem until I replaced it when it finally got too worn. Maybe try that first!

Thanks Mo. (Jings this is complicated!).

Update. Having replaced the lift pump (with added spacer) and now able to get it out for a run (had to replace rear shocks first) things have improved. Hill out of town I would normally find myself slowing considerably on and ending up in 3rd at 35 or 40mph I went up in 4th and was nearly at 50mph so thats much better. It pulls more cleanly on the flat in lower gears and has vastly improved clean (ie less smoke) acceleration in 3rd and 4th. However 5th feels sluggish on acceleration until the turbo cuts in, and the EGT's *seem* to have got a bit higher (I've not adjusted the boost which appears to have dropped slightly since fitting the new lift pump presumably due to the change in fuel delivery). So I'm part way there! The belt is being changed and all the timing (engine & FIP) checked over at the end of this week From my poking about here in previous threads the symptoms I have appear to some extent to be consistent with retarded timing - easy start, smooth running, slightly grey smoke when starting off that soon clears, high-ish EGT's and poor performance, and worse MPG but with an engine that runs cooler - all of which I have to varying degrees.

Thanks Fridge. Job done, but definitely some weirdness in the nuts/threads. Are you referring to the lower nuts (rear) with those pitch variations? Once I had the wheel off and my head inside the arch with plenty light and wire brushed the shock mount I was able to get an M12 (sacrificial just in case) nut to spin down easily enough, and then tried the M12 Nyloc which was ok too. However the nuts that came off are both 18mm spanner size (and not corroded down to that size) and woud not spin onto a new M12 bolt at all. So I'm guessing they must be one of the variations you mention. I checked the security of the new Nylocs on the mount after fitting the new shocks and was easily able to torque up without any thread-slippage so am satisfied the mount-threads are intact so not sure what was afoot there. Anyway, despite the apparent functionality of the old shocks it was just as well I replaced them as they were pretty shot. Have the delights of the fronts to do next which I can foresee involving the electric hacksaw.

Aye will do, really dont want the faff of removing the top mounts if I dont need to!

Thanks Mo. Curious, some posts I googled mentioned similar confusions as I'm experiencing. Ah well once I get the wheel off and my head in there and can see clearly to give it a good going over with the wire brush it may all be ok but reaching in in the gloom it would not easily fit, and I wasn't keen on forcing the nut on. Definitely needed an 18mm socket on both sides to get the old ones off, 19mm would not go on either side. Thanks Ralph, if the parts book say M12 well who am I to argue!

I'm replacing the rear shocks tomorrow and this evening in anticipation pulled off the upper nuts which appear to be something odd that requires an 18mm socket (not 19mm as required for M12). I tried an M12 nut on the shock pin and it will go on but not far and not easily so I've not forced it. I've done some googling and its suggesting that an 18mm socket is needed for nuts that are 7/16BSF but also, confusingly, that M12 should be the standard fitment on the upper shock pin. Can anyone shed some light on this for me? Is it M12 or were there anyt imperial sizes like 7/16BSF ever used?

Yes it was a 19J originally, and retrofitted with a 200Tdi. Still uses existing air filter box, and the exhaust is the standard 2.5 system originally fitted (same as Ralph). Intake pipwork is same internal diameter as standard pipes I took off, only difference is I added an additional inlet to the air filter coming from the front wing into a Y just before the air filter housing to ensure sufficient air. But tbh nothing on my vehicle is in any way weird - I've read loads of stuff on here about the various modifications I've made, mainly as suggested or actually done by Vulcan, Ralph, Western, Mo etc and am very conservative when it comes to messing about. And when I've been unsure I've asked for advice!!

Hmmm. Is there any VIN or age related info for when the later plate was added, or is it just a case of look and see?

As far as I can establish from reading about it, the nylon spacer *seems* (at least on some engines) to move the pump arm out so far that it won't operate. However the slightly thinner Glencoyne spacer does allow operation, but the range of movement is less, thus preventing over-stressing of the arm/linkage and premature failure. I think! But I could be completely wrong!

Yes I've read your post several times when i was looking for advice Ralph, and all I can say is 'Its a Land Rover thing and it puzzles me. Again!". The Glencoyne spacer is less thick than the nylon spacers that I've occasionally found in lift pump boxes, and Glencoyne themselves make a clear distinction between putting the spacer on the mounting plate you show (I presume) and the bare block: "...all four cylinder 2.25 / 2.5 engines with the cast aluminium pump mounting plate, and 300TDi engines where the pump is bolted direct to the block". Its all very confusing!

Curious - if the pump arm is moved further away from the cam (thus reducing movement range) does the consequent fuel volume being moved affect the feeding of the FIP in some way? My experience today is *almost* as if an over-fuelling state has been reduced somehow. Obviously other issues may be afoot (I still need to check air hoses for leaks/problems) - timing belt change and fuel pump timing check are booked for a few weeks so once all that is done the main culprits will have been eliminated.

Picture for you maverik...and some progress too! Today checked valve clearances - all hunky dory, one a smidgeon out but otherwise all fine. Took a spin, no change. Pulled fuel 'out' pipe off lift pump and the pump pumps like a pump and does the fuel moving spurty thing as I'd expect. It was put on a couple of years back after several others failed (I replaced at least 4 in as many years). Removed pump completely and inspected it, all seems to be intact, all working nothing appears to be amiss as far as I can see, and it sucks and blows and all that. Replaced it with a new Delphi pump and added the Glencoyne spacer as suggested on here previously. Just had a run - considerable difference in smoke, pulls cleanly in 1 and 2 and where an early change to 3 would have a noticeable plume I got a minor puff and then it runs clean. I can feel a noticeable sprightliness that was previously absent although still not pulling like I think it should - I was still struggling to to pick up speed in 5th but doing so 'cleanly' as opposed to puffing out black smoke. So running cleaner and with a bit more vigour for sure. I noticed the change in fueling has affected the turbo boost, which seems down on previous maxing out at 1bar instead of the 1.2 or thereabouts it was going up to before. I ordered one of the boost valves as Mo recommended so will fit that which will make adjustment easier and see what difference that makes. So a wee bit progress and whatever was up with that lift pump goodness only knows but it was like that from the minute I took it out of the box. I'd a breakdown in the hills behind Edinburgh a long way from home and the AA man agreed with my lift pump failure diagnosis so I got trailered back to the Highlands (it was Sunday so no spares available). I replaced the duff pump, and ran it for 6 months, then replaced it with a new one so I could keep what I knew was a working one under the seat as a spare. However neither are anywhere near as good as the one I've just fitted! So it seems I got two that were total pants! That makes 7 lift pumps I've fitted in a dozen years. Hmmmm. Unless of course the Glencoyne spacer has got fairy dust on it? Could it make that difference to pump operation?? So next step (not today) is to check all air intake pipes and see if anything has delaminated or is leaking.

Now that I'm back in the same place as the vehicle...I should manage this tomorrow and will report back on the outcome. Was going to get in about it this afternoon in my 'outdoor workshop' as well as do a valve clearance check but rain stopped play.

I've been away (from home and the vehicle) for several days so not able to do anything, but its on the list of to-do's and will report back what I find! In meantime have ordered new lift pump and some other fresh bits so will ensure all the ancilliary gubbins are in good nick too.

I fitted BP seals recently with new doors and found that 'double fitting' them worked pretty well. The first fit gets the rough shapes around the curves out & in, but in doing this the actual 'pinch' ability of the seal is compromised a little, so once on, I pulled them back up from the bottom, took pliers and carefully nipped tight again the bits that go round the corners, and then using a wooden mallet (block of wood is fine) tapped them back onto the curves and they went right in, took the shapes and gripped really well. May be worth ensuring there's some actual 'grippiness' on the metal of the curves, with some fresh paint (I'd slathered on loads of new paint beforehand so it was dry but still had a 'squeaky' feel to it) but certainly need to clean off all the dirt/sliminess if theres any present.