Jocklandjohn

Thats quite a line up! My pal had a 400-4 and that was a lovely bike, only other one I've been on is the XL600. I like those trail Hondas. One year I toured the USA on an XL175 with knobblies, a bum aching but glorious 12,000 problem free miles. Fiat Mirifiori? Helped my mate put a 2.0 twin-cam engine pulled from a Mirafiori into an ex-Post Office Morris 850 van. It was an absolute hoot and would leave sports cars spluttering in its wake! Great engine!

You've certainly done the rounds of Italian exotica! Should have kept some of those....!

I've a soft spot for Guzzis - looked at a few rejuvenated ones recently on various bike sites and oh my they look wonderful! But yes that 'in the know' remark - I parked up in Oban one day an old lad with a stick hobbled along and stopped, looked at the Buell then looked at me and said. "Thats a Buell!" He was 84 or thereabouts and a motorcyclist all his life - he had three bikes at home in the garage he informed me, one a Vincent. But he wistfully explained... his eyesight had got so bad he'd lost his licence, but he launched into a full history of Buell, all about Erik Buell and Harley and on and on until his wife had to drag him away! Real conversation starter old v-twins, dont get one if you dont like talking to people!

I'm not sure I always thought that was a 120 which had the much better nose than the 180. I think the Montjuic was used for racing, there were a few lads into scaring themselves on the track in the central belt. Proper bikes though - solid metal, whirry bits and noise!

I certainly do, some tweaking to the carb and a less restrictive air intake and silencer (but not an overly-noisy one) - and it goes like a train! The torque is a joy, third gear roll ons are unstoppable and rolling off the throttle in lower gears it sounds like an american muscle car! Sadly wasn't on the road this year as I was too busy with other stuff (and lockdown) but am contemplating fitting an Imola style fairing I picked up for a bargain price - seen here just bungeed on for a quick look when it arrived (minus the plexi screen top), and not painted black yet. I'm fed up with the wind buffetting at anything above 50 and I'm too old for heroics! Its such a joy to ride it - vibrations vanish as soon as its rolling and the V-twin lollop along sensation makes it very pleasant.

My mate had a bright orange Jota which I borrowed one day - and terrified myself! The right foot gear change caught me out in an overtaking manoeuvre approaching a corner when I got an unintended lower gear rather than the braking effect I was expecting! Here it is with a Montjuic for company...

Lovely bike. I can understand your pain! Mines is 2000 MY and I bought it new and don't intend getting rid of it. Not the bike to ride if you don't like talking to people!

That's not actually mine - my M2 is a later model with a few more shiny parts on it! Currently fabbing up a frame to fit a small fairing (Imola style) to stop my head getting ripped off when I try to go above 60!

Fascinating! Thanks fior the link - thats a rabbit hole to fall down....!

Some interesting comments and remarks on this, which reminded me that my Buell motorbike came fitted with a 'breadbox' for the air intake which in fact was a Helmholtz Resonator which allowed a wodge of still air to be present for intake, and which apparently contributed to quieter and more efficient running. That intake on the 200Tdi looks like a passable car version, which might account for the reduced noise and smoother running. Or of course I could be talking utter nonsense and am completely deluded!

Cheers Ralph - that immensely helpful - I was sure that was some separate component. I missed it completely on the diagrams. Thank you!

Just been looking underneath to establish whats afoot and comparing to parts diagram. I am a bit puzzled by one part which is at the forwards end of the sill channel, between sill channel and back of front outrigger. It has a reinforced hole through it which allows the bolt from the outrogger to pass through to the end of the tree slider. I can id most of the other parts around it but cannot id this part - can anyone give me a pointer to its part number? You can see it in the pictures labelled below. Its not part of the sill channel as far as I can see but there's so much corrosion its hard to tell.

Thanks Ralph.

Just replaced my 110 front doors and seals, and ordered the sill seals too (MWC1080/1081). However I note they have no metal backing plate. I can see the rubbers are pre-drilled and mate with the existing metal sill plate screws - however I cannot ID a part number for that metal backing portion, which has a round steel top lip and which sits above, and protects, the rubber seal. Mines is well corroded and needs replaced. It *looks* on the parts diagram that the metal backing plate - is actually an integral part of the underlying bodywork described as a 'Sill Channel' (Part Number 24 - MWC 1086/1087 for L & R). Is this correct - that its all one section with the Sill Channel? This is on an '89 vehicle - it looks like more recent ones have the seal on the door itself.

Excellent thank you. It looks quite complex and daunting but once I;d given it some thought it looked like those rods & clips were the key - thanks for that!

Got various felt bits & packers etc (and new door handles!) . I've removed the door card and now contemplating the interior of the door and have one *simple* question: It *looks* complicated but as far as I can determine the inner metal plate (that sits behind the door card) 'carries' the majority of the gubbins for both the window winder mechanism and the locking components. The plate is held on with several bolts. It seems that if I release the screws in the door edge holding the lock assembly and disconnect the two 'wires' that attach to the lock at the handle the whole plot will lift out with the metal plate and can be placed back into the new door with minimal buggeration. Is this correct? I dont want to start taking the locking assembly apart only to find I didn't have to!

Excellent thank you!

Thats some great information - thank you VERY much. Particularly the handles advice - its often these small things that mess you about! Just looking at hinge gaskets on Ebay and note there are earlier/later gaskets shaped to corresponding hinges type (earlier have more square corners, later have a rounded corner). I have existing earlier hinges currently on the 110, but the replacement hinges I've got are the later type - so am I right to assume the hinges are interchangeable (with appropriate gaskets) as in - the hole will all align - its just the shape that has changed in the later type?

Thanks Ralph - that makes sense - I'd not located them yet as I've not started taking the old one apart. As I'm currently using the van I thought I could build up most of the new doors with the new bits then do a quick swap of the glass, lock, gubbins and door card.

Currently replacing my doors and managed to overlook the felt in the channels. Seems from a trawl through google its available as individual pieces as left & right sets, or in off-the-roll on a per-metre basis. The sets come with/without shims. If I already have doors (which I do) can I assume I have shims? Does it matter if the felt is in pieces, or is it better as continuous off-the-roll? Can anyone who's replaced these parts give me some advice? And also suggest anything else 'consumable' I might need in addition? (fyi I have new plastic channels for both doors, the inner & outer lower horizontal seals* and new scissors mechs for raising/lowering. *The lower outer rubber seal is a different shape from the original as fitted currently - part number is correct though, matching it to an upgraded part - but its not as wide as the old one, is this correct? )

Thanks! Light was lovely in the evenings - landscape looking west is a long lens shot which does 'squish' perspective a bit (600mm) on 35mm FF camera.

Thanks Arjan! Bit of a protracted job, but its got there!

Update on progress. Well I finally got all the seals fitted and working as I wanted them to. Basically on each side there's an 8' length of ply on a piano hinge that clips out of the way in the UP postion when roof is lowered, and then when roof is lifted and I want to employ them I pull a couple of sprung pins out and the two sides flip down onto neoprene seals and then a tension clip holds them in place. Rear end is a slightly larger lump of wood with an alloy skin on it that is stored up top and lifted into place (not hinged) and clipped in when required. Its got alloy on its lower face because its more exposed to weather and it also helps to make it more rigid. Now the restrictions have eased and its legal to go further afield I took it for its first test drive/overnight recently for a few days just up the road to the North Coast, although still required no-contact interactions (hardly saw anyone anyway). It was variously very cold, very windy, rather wet, then it was warm. It kept me warm and dry, no rattles or leaks, the additional weight was hardly noticeable - the 110 bowled along nicely. The ease of operation and being able to stand up in the back cooking my supper within 10 minutes of stopping is priceless! It needs a good shake-down running around for a spell to see what rattles, loosens etc but so far its looking like the various sealing methods and joint-solutions I came up with have worked, keeping driving rain out. Got some electricals to do now, and some new doors to fit when I get them painted.

I've used stuff from the yacht or building trades lines - the non-silicone PU sealant which you can overpaint. Some of it seems a bit fussy about what its going onto (some I used a year or two ago hated etch primer) but the best so far has been Soudal FixAll Crystal which is a clear version of FixAll Flexi. Its proved stable on the various painted surfaces and has not shed any of the paints I've used over it. Not expensive either.

Mine jammed during a pump rebuild and came out of the dealer 'stuck' after they did a test (which it passed) but which caused months of buggeration (loads of smoke, no power, eating fuel) until I actually did what Maverick did and got the manual and read up to try and diagnose the problem. Took cap off, removed diaphragm and found the assembly jammed by the wee pin at bottom. Went back to overhauler and pointed out the problem. *Apparently* (they told me later) they got the horizontal pin out by somehow poking a welding rod into the pump and tacking it on then it took 2 lads to pull it free (w/pump still in vehicle). Then they had no spare pin and Bosch UK didn't have any as "they never need them" (they said), and one had to come from Germany. The pump guys were perplexed and said this was the first time they'd seen this problem. However talking with them a few months later they said another 200di of same vintage came in a few weeks later with exactly the same problem. They had a suspicion that the newer low-sulphur diesel provides less lubrication and this might have some negative effect on the pin.