Young bobtail Rhys

I had some cobra monaco le vinyl bucket seats and they went as they were just too hard to get in and out. Your seats Chris look very good, for that price they might go on my "to buy" list

Very temping.................if I had a driving license

Is that suposed to be a link? It doesn't work

Shall I bite the bullet and not run tubes then? And then try Rizla1's method as that sounds to be quite good

We have a td5 disco auto and when towing we get around 18mpg and when not around 21mpg

Ok, cheers for that In the near future I will consider this and for now they will be run without spacers and I will just have to see how I get on

omg what have I done Should have stuck with normal rims I can get hold of an air ratchet from a friend so that will be ok I do have the four longer bolts to squeeze it down The ring looks smaller as the weld hangs around it. It has been ground to a radius so no sharp edges. Moving the centre back The wheel will go way out of balance then won't it??? I haven't got the money to be spending on that atm. Also sounds like alot of work. And for me I have bigger problems than that atm. Like my standard drivetrain ticking until it goes pop, as these tyres are agressive and then producing even more grip aired down with beadlocks Props are at a stretch with the gwyn lewis kit so they are coming up for order, along with the winning lotery ticket

Ok Thanks for that info there The wheels were £170 for 5 and the rings £225 for 10 32 bolt hole rings 160 bolts, 160 washers, 106 spring washers, 160 bolts, 160 nuts and instructions, 5 fibre belts etc. and then paint and cost of having them welded etc. It is recommended from bt fab that I run tubes. Should I or shouldn't I? Because tubes only cover one problem, and then create alot more. If air can get through the unsealed bead then water will proberly as well and in an extreme case grit or dirt in the water and then fiction inside causes punctures. And to top it all off, the tyres that I have coming are bias ply or known to us as cross ply. So the car will need to be raised off the floor or the wheels removed every time that I am not using it for a while as the tyres will turn into something along the lines of what Fred Flintstone has and I don't realy want flat spots on my tyres for the next 5miles or so until they re-shape

And finally........... As you can see I have been lazy and only painted the side that you can see well with some mixed up hammerite. Its not going to last along with the orange ring that I sprayed Eventually they will be powder coated. And as for cost.......... 5 wheels and beadlocks welded/fitted and painted (by me)................£455 I don't think thats too bad, considering if you were to buy mach 5 beadlock and obviously there is much more strength, asthetics and quality but they will set you back £915 plus painting.

A couple........

Another one.........

Only one as can't hold any more..............

Will proberly take up quite a few posts to get all of the pics in as they are all high res

Will get more pics soon. Backspacing, don't know. All I know is that they are 25mm each more off set than standard disco steels. The beadlocks are from bt fabrications, and are single beadlocks. Great items. The wheels are 16x7 and then with the beadlocks 8.5" wide. Got a friend to weld the beadlocks on, but the wheels were just normal modulars for around £30 each. The tyres going on will be super swamper ltb 34/10.5 r16 I will also being running 30mm wheel spacers so I can return some of my steering lock. As for the sealing, I am not quite sure what you mean?? And the bolts should not become a problem rubbing up against rocks as I don't drive where there are any, but normal ruts may become a problem in the long run.

It's all typical land rover's isn't it Mine requires attention as well

Hi all, Now my beadlock wheels are finally complete and painted up I am just waiting for my tyres to arrive from California. However, when the time comes to fit my tyres, I need a little info on how to go about it. I have a few basic instructions but need a little more indepth answers from you guys and any pointers if any. Now, I have access to a tyre fitting machine but so it seems you don't need one as you can use tyre levers for this and I don't think a 34" tyre will fit on this particular machine Another thing that I noticed is that the ss ltb's are 8ply rated so will this make fitting them a bit harder? Or very hard Oh, and then I have the joy of putting in 160 bolts and torqued to 5ft lbs each, great Any way here's a little piccy of one of the wheels;

surely the 12v motors won't last very long when 24v is going through them?

btw, going slightly off topic here but, what are the simex et2's like then as they are a little wider and have the extra centipede row in the centre and have a slightly softer compound??? Oh, and this is for off road use as obviously they are hopeless on the road too

Sorry the link doesn't work What tyres are they then?

also the comeup ds9.5 that is exactly the same speed as a warn 9.5ti. To speed up an ep9 you can fit a bowmotor though can't you????

What about the bf goodrich 35/12.5r15 or the maxxis creepy crawler in the same size. Both down on road noise.

Delphi de-carbons are good. Koni are better and old man emu are the best. It all depends on what you are doing and how much you want to spend. It also helps to have the same dampers all round to balance the car. HTH

Thing is, how many batteries would he require to run four 24v motors and how bigger alternator or how many alternators? Also, as the wazza system fits onto the xp motor, can you run it on an xp winch? Or would the internals wear and brake very quickly like on the 8274, although the xp is a much slower winch and therefore more gentle on components?