Young bobtail Rhys

Thanks alot!

As I do not know how to pm pictures, I will post them up. As they were taken just now, they are all dark and not very good. I will get some more at the weekend. If anyone wants to post up some more pics for Reggie that would be cool as he is trying to find some extended arches for his rrc. I am sure he will explain

Slip the clutch!?!?!?!? Nige, the transfer box is standard along with everything else. I did have a 1.66 ratio t-box to go in but because of the ratios in low I didn't think it would make that much of a difference.........so I sold it Also, it doesn't do any road work, purely off road so high range is never used. In terms of changing gear, I used to run 32" tyres which was fine as when it changed gear it could still spin them up or stay in the torque curve/powerband. Now I have fitted 35" tyres and beadlocks that are run at "moderate" pressure, it will spin them up and pull fine in first but as soon as it changes to second in some slop or something pretty tacky, it won't pick up the revs again properly, it seems to stay at the rpm that it went into that gear and doesn't increase much, by this time I am stuck. If I was to change both diff ratios then I would feel inclined to purchase hardened internals in the axles as I am running Simex, but cannot afford this yet as I am purchasing a roll cage first. Maybe this could be second on my list.......

Yep have considered it Nige and was informed that all transfer boxes have the same low ratio gear within reason, not sure how true that is?

Thank you chaps The only reason I am considering this is because I have fitted 35" tyres with standard gearing and when going through deep ruts, deep mud or anything can you need quite a bit of welly, the engine hasn't got enough power to pull through when it changes gear. Therefore I leave it in first which keeps the wheels spinning (if need be) or keeps forward motion. The problem is that when going flat out or in high rpm where you know that there is no gear to change into, you glance down and see that the rev counter shows 5000rpm plus....thats not good (mind you there are still no bad noises over 5000). As a result I fit a rev limiter, save me engine and save money on lowering the gearing

What would be the safe maximum rpm on a standard ish 3.5efi rover v8 from a classic? I know that they are set to change gear at 4500rpm but if left in gear what rpm would a rev limiter be set at?

I have a scorpion racing lift (just the springs) and I like them because they are soft, however they would not be a good compromise on the road and off road. But it does all depend on what spring rates you buy, I don't know what moine are but they are soft which is absolutly no good for road work

If you used a single external beadlock you would be looking at around 9 1/2" width

I have simex et2's with standard drivetrain..........just depends on how you drive

Stu, its simple.....2 3/4" spring lift, 50mm extended arches, 8 1/2" wide wheels, 3" backspacing, 35/11.5 16 simex. Good turning circle and limited rubbing. Easy

Which beadlocks do you want? Ready made wheels, i.e. you buy them off the shelf, or cheap diy jobbies? I have the diy ones and they work faultlessly. I would recommend Gary Andrews for diy beadlocks, despite the fact that I use bt fab and love them Same quality with Gary, just half the price

I have simex and won't be changing for boggers! I like the simex, especially at 7psi

mine are originally 7" wide, but now beadlocked so about 8 1/2" but thats not relevant. I think they are 4 1/4" backspacing with 30mm spacers

My mods have 3" backspacing with spacers........and for me, who is running 35" tyres and 2 3/4" lift is ideal

I have tried the extra bump stop on the axle to stop previous tyres rubbing, and yes it worked but when going over sharp bumps or anything that makes the suspension compress, it will bottom out fairly harsh and gets annoying and very restrictive.

I am assuming without beadlocks??? If so then you don't really want to go any less than 18psi really as the risk will then be of popping a bead, on road would be around 25psi or maybe as high as 30psi. Personal preference on that basis, but it would probably state the correct pressures in the manual etc. But this will also depend on what car it is, 90, rrc, disco etc as they are all different weights

Another vote for the TDS here

It should be getting all sorted this Saturday as a friend of ours has got a set of the "special" sockets. If this doesn't work then, I'll be back! I will post up how we get on

Yep a 2" lift also works fine. I have extended bump stops, +70mm springs and the gwyn lewis challenge setup. My bump stops never get hit unless the wheels travel vertically up, i.e it bottoms out. What this means is that my extended bump stop is now too short as it was designed for a 2" lift and is therefore 1" too short. The travel is still the same, but is an inch higher to start with and therefore when the wheel is at the top of its articulation, it is an inch lower than on a 2" lift. The correct solution is a 2" lift and a 1" body lift. This way it is only the body going up higher and keeps a little more weight lower down, which means the car's centre of gravity is lower. That is if you need a 3" lift for your tyres. Some 35" tyres are actually bigger than others. I ran 35" mickey thompsons that measured around 34.5" tall and I am now running simex that are 35 1/4" tall. The tyres width also plays a big part in how high the car needs to be raised etc.

I have USED it before. It is ok, if you do small amounts of winching and look after it. However as you have a rear winch it seems unlikely that you do small amounts of winching, therefore IMHO don't buy it as it probably won't last.

I have 35/11.5 simex on my rrc with 70mm on spring lift and extended arches. They work fine, no major probs. With 37" tyres you would need a 4" lift, 2 on the body and 2 on the springs. However, the centre of gravity would be very high making it unstable and the tyres would still probably catch on the front inner arch footwell. Steering lock would be seriously limited as well. I personally would recommed 35's as they are a good all round size to fit which can be done pretty easily and cost effective.

With a 2" lift, the 265/75 tyres will be fine, with extended arches you could run 34" tyres (possibly 35") but with a 3" lift you could run a true 35" tyre no problem if you had extended arches (as this is what I have) so really there is no reason why you would need to lift it up another inch as really you want to keep the car's centre of gravity as low as possible. HTH

Nope, can't remember anything that was on the back of it and unfortunately there are freestyle alloys so are recessed

Cheers guys, I shall give the smaller socket technique a go first, and if not successfull, buy that kit

We have managed to leave our locking wheel removal nut thingy on the wing and have driven off without knowing! As you would expect it isn't there any more Has anybody got any idea's of how I can get all four nuts off without damaging the wheels as they are alloy?