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Young bobtail Rhys

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Everything posted by Young bobtail Rhys

  1. With the 10.5" tyres you will probably get away with the 8" modulars, although they may rub on the radius arms and possibly the rear inner arch. With the 10.5" you would need around 3 3/4" to 4 1/2" backspacing I would say. Also, you may find that as you say, you can get away with just simple arch trimming. I had some 34/10.5 super swampers with 4 1/2" backspacing and with the 70mm lift that I have I only required to cut the arches on the bottoms of them, not the top but these tyres only cam eout as 33 1/2" tall. If you wanted to you could just run a 2" lift and the 50mm extended arches. This way you keep you COG as low as possible but still have enough rom inside the arches etc. Also, with a 2" lift the castors on your axles and porp angles etc. would still be ok ish. You can get away without changing the radius arms but would probably be advised to change the trailing arms.
  2. My cage will be very simular to the devon bobtail one, so part internal part external but close fitted in 50mm CDS. For me it will cost a fair bit because it is a range rover and not as simple as a 90. Probably around £500
  3. Or this This has nearly 3" of suspension lift, no body lift and just cut arches. The pic shows it with 35/13.5 mickey thompsons although I now have 35/11.5 simex which are a true 35" tyre. And no probs There is no need for a body lift, as long as you get the wheel backspacing correct. I run 3" backspacing on an 8 1/2" rim. I would say no more than 3 1/2" backspacing and no less than 3" for running 11.5" wide tyres like myself. Are yours 10.5" or 11.5"?
  4. Does the NOR cage come ready notched? I have just ordered a cage from P+P and it does come notched
  5. Nope I don't understand it either. However, give him a call, maybe there is some method behind his madnesshttp://www.crowndiffs.co.uk/
  6. I spoke to crown diffs the other day and he assured me that as long as you run open diffs, the diff upgrade (4 pin) will not move the weakness onto, say a halfshaft etc.
  7. I agree with Bish, I have an auto and haven't broke one halfshaft or cv, and I run 35" simex's..............I just keep blowing up diffs
  8. There is one at Badwell Ash near Bury st Edmunds and Diss. It will be ran by excalibur4x4 but through slroc.com. This runs on 11th Jan.
  9. I had an early 110 1:66 ratio transfer box and had to get it couriered to someone. That one weighed around 60kgs, I think it was 63kgs including the packaging
  10. Around 60kgs for the transfer box and a 30mm socket or spanner for the back of the radius arm and front of the trailing arm and 24mm for the front of the radius arm or back of the trailing arm
  11. Out of interest Andy, (as I will be looking for some ropes soon.........) what do you charge for the ropes? All sizes lengths etc. or for example 125ft of 12mm???
  12. How about plasma 12 from first four? I don't think the breaking strain is as high, maybe 1000kgs different or so, but they are cheaper. What would be recommended out of plasma 12 or bowrope? I would like to know as I will be looking to buy around 125ft of 12mm rope soon and was going to buy plasma 12 from first four
  13. I am trying.........honest One of my rear halfshafts will explain
  14. Bish, I have slide down a back hitting the side quite hard before and destored my arch, but the fibreglass one.........just scratched! I know exactly what you are saying, I got them cheap!
  15. Nope no catching on the door as when the rear wheel articulates it moves up and backwards, therefore you need a larger gap at the rear of the arch.
  16. This might give you an indication of how much you can safely cut off and how much you require to cut off when running 35" tyres. The duck tape is only keeping mud out of the doors until I get round to filling them with expanding foam
  17. Sorry about the delay Reggie and the fact that it is caked, but was a bit busy in a challenge over the weekend.
  18. Yep do it, they are also suprisingly strong!
  19. I use staun deflators and they are no less than superb
  20. Jake, I have the fibreglass arches and have trimmed them a little but with nearly a 3" lift my 35/11.5 et2's go in fine with no fuss, it has also got the gwyn lewis challenge kit on it. Lovely work though buddy, a neat example
  21. Not sure how much I have cut off really. The method I used was to take a little off at one time until satisfied. I have had to take all sorts of bits out from the arch and will post up some pics saturday, which will also show you how much I have taken off.
  22. Reggie, I wouldn't worry about the arches not being flexi. Mine are fibreglass and they have taken a few knocks and are very tough. They are much stronger than my wing as I found out
  23. Yep, know it can be done...............I just don't know how!
  24. By the looks of the pictures, the 50mm arches will cover most, if not all of the tread, but not the sidewall. Not sure on the law but IMO you should be ok with 50mm arches and probably trim them. Which ever arches you fit, the tyres are always going to rub, but as long as mr plod is happy with the 50mm arches then I would say go for them edit: as I have now seen the 75mm ones, I would go for them as they should be safe with covering the tread and the sidewalls
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