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jimmy_neutron

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Posts posted by jimmy_neutron

  1. So any LT230 box 200tdi, 300tdi, (td5?) should be able to bolt straight on? And although I have had it confirmed by the guy who rebuilt my gearbox, what would be the surefire way of ensuring a) i have a 1.4 and b) the new one is definately a 1.22 without relying on labelling?

    Pete

    Some TD5's didn't have the 4wd locker fitted. Easy to check for though. I got a 300tdi disco transfer box on my 200tdi defender and its fine. Its worth checking that the 4wd selects easily though.

    If ya get stuck for this then i do have a good box for sale, only thing is that i am in cumbria.

  2. I'm thinking of fitting winter tyres on my car as my defender is off the road this winter :angry:

    Started to search the net for information on various tyres but it turned into a mare as good snow tyres aint good in the wet which isn't much use either. Does anyone have a good comparison table for car winter tyres ???

    cheers

  3. I'll guess at exhaust manifold gasket. Reason is that these can chirp like a tweety bird when not quite sealing right. Reason for only doing it on overrun is to do with the engine leaning in the opposite direction to when accelerating. The exhaust is fixed and the engine moves causing gasket to fail causing chirping. Check engine mounts as well while your at it. Excessive movement from the mounts will cause this to kepp happening.

  4. Sorry to hijack your thread a bit but the clutch pedal on my disco suddenly stopped returning after pushing to the floor. It moves about 2 cm which still operates the clutch (just). Is this a symptom of the worn fork thingies?

    Could be .. they sometimes go with a bit of a clunk.. could also just be badly adjusted

  5. I assume the pivot has burst through the fork ?

    Some (myself included) beef up the fork by welding a plate on the back of the dimple.

    Someone on here sells (or did) ready beefed ones but I can't recall who.

    They tend to burst through when the pivot ball gets worn.

  6. How much of a modification do you need to do? one of the main drivers for getting a short R380 was the ability to install the cooler.

    The adapter bit for the R380 sits on the passenger side luckily. I'd say it's only about 25mm but the problem is that its the seat box that needs cut away and then the tunnel modified.

    Its do-able but its one of then things i was going to do but never bothered getting round to it.

    Still worth the change to R380 though.

  7. I have recently fitted a new gearbox to my truck (1989 110), its a Lt77s which has the same ratio as the r380, while it was reconned I got a cooling modification fitted to it as well. I have a small radiator under the wing, For long haul stuff this keeps the gearbox cool. This facility is also available on the R380 gearbox too, however the shortshaft R380 is an expensive conversion. As for Xfer box, all transfer boxes have same lower ratios, so offroad there is no differance. On road we have both defenders with 1.2 and 1.4 Xfer boxes, the 1.2 runs quiter on road but like a naturally aspirated will find the hills before you see them when towing. I believe the 1.4 gives a better allround performance. :rolleyes:

    K

    The 'thermostat housing' as landrover call it ... the adapter bit that the pipes go in to on the gearbox for the gearbox oil cooler can't be fitted on a 200tdi with a short R380 unless you modify the transmission tunnel.

  8. I have a defender 200tdi with a short R380 and a 1.22 LT230 from a Disco 2. It runs well and i'm happy with it. I've got 235/85/r16 tyres on as well.

    If anything its slightly high geared especially when towing but nothing dramatic. You will find that you spend more time in 4th than you did and when you get up to a decent speed you've got another gear left to use. And i just never get into 5th when towing anything heavy.

  9. After a certain age, condition matters more than age/mileage. Just pick something that looks solid and not too abused. Or, just buy a small sensible car to avoid being distracted by offroading when you should be getting on with your 90.

    It keeps raining though and its cold and i wimp out :unsure:

    I got a rover 416 auto :angry: cos i was desperate for a drivable car to run me around. only expected to be driving it a few weeks but no matter how hard i try it just won't tow 3 tonnes. For some reason the auto box just keeps slipping and the engine squeals and i get no movement. :ph34r:

  10. no not all discos are rotten but you do need to look carefully for it

    if you only want one for 6 months while the defender chassis swap is being done you will get one that will see you through winter for 700-800 quid easy enough

    rob

    o and a 200 tdi in a disco is the same just some of the bits bolted to it are different ;)

    TA that sound like a plan if i can find one cheap enough locally. At least i get an engine at the end of it :)

  11. My 90 defender is off the road as i need to put a new galv chassis in it and now that the weather is getting cold, i'm starting to wonder if i'll get it done before winter.

    I was thinking about getting an old 200tdi disco and running it till i get the defender back, then just scrapping it and keeping the engine as a spare for the defender. My defender is a 200tdi so is the engine a straight swap except for the manifolds ?

    Are all the old disco's rotten and not worth getting ?

    Would i be better off with a newer disco and trying to keep it for a couple of years?

    Should i consider a series or defender instead ? :blink:

  12. Just use the standard slave cylinder http://www.paddockspares.com/sp/cat/DEFENDER/sub/Clutch/sid/12/sb2/6++Miscellaneous+Clutch+Parts.html

    but you will need .. FTC4229 : Slave cylinder pin as the distance from the front of the cylinder to the clutch fork is different than standard.

    Make sure that you don't fit the standard tdi clutch release bearing.

    There's a parts list on the bottom of page 2 on my linky thingy below if you need it.

  13. I went through this a while ago ... My conclusion was ..

    1) Its not legal

    2) Its not safe

    3) Not worth the risk

    We could all argue that its all about the government and that we don't ever have accidents, and talk about days of old when smoking was good for you and seat belts weren't even fitted in cars.

    In reality we have a choice .. My choice is to sit my kids in a good quality forward facing seat, with a good quality kiddie seat, and make sure they are strapped in.

    I carry 3 kids and a mrs in my landie90. If ya click my linky at the bottom then somewhere in there it'll show you how i created a proper 3 point seat belt for the front centre seat and the seats i fitted in the rear.

    If it was me and i needed to carry 6 kiddies then i'd get a 110 CSW and make it the same as the new defender csw then it'll be about as good as it can be.

  14. I believe that MIG'in stainless is possible but I aint tried it. If your doing alot of it then make the excuse to buy a cheapie scratch start TIG and you will appreciate the difference. If this is a one off then i'd hire for a day. Theres nothing worse than looking at a job and pretending that someone else did it.

    If your doing 4mm+ stainless then you could always stick weld it.

  15. Yes some did ..

    Firstly look on the top of the transfer box as far forward as you can go and to the drivers side. If there is a pin with 2 flats and a screw thread on top then you are in luck. This is the place that the diff lock selector attaches to.

    I'm no expert with disco's but IIRC D1's were 200tdi's ??? with an LT77 gearbox ?? if so then the diff lock selector will be different as they fix to the gearbox. The D2 presuming that its got an R380 gearbox will be the same on all the later disco's within reason. Thus pay ashcrofts £200 and save yourself loads of hassle or find a landrover scrap yard.

  16. I'm just doing the same job and mine will get waxoyled. The rear x may get underseal cos wax tends to rub off easily when loading in the rear door.

    Reasons are ..

    1) If the van looks like it had loads of cash spent on it then it'll probably not belong to me very long. You have just got a new chassis so you can imagine how much it will make on flea bay.

    2) road salt turns galv into like a blackish pitted mess which doesn't look too pretty and probably shortens the life of the galv slightly.

    I wont be injecting the chassis though.

  17. Does anyone have experience or recomend mulitcar insurance providers?

    Both my Disco and 90 are due in a few weeks.

    I have always been sceptical about these deals, however having seen the advert on TV for Admiral I thought I would get a quote. It seems slightly less than my current 2 seperate policies.

    Does anyne know of any other providers?

    I just bought an old rover 416 so please feel sorry for me :blink: . I just got it until i get round to replacing my 90's chassis so won't take too long :ph34r: .

    Anyway, back to the point.

    My 90 is insured with Adrian Flux because it's modded. But my main car is insured with http://www.swiftcover.com/ . When i got my rover thingy i got quotes and the cheapest way was to take another policy with swift and 'mirror' the no claims discount.

    The reason i mention this is because policy mirroring does not seem very well known about and means you can use your no claims discount on many cars.

  18. My opinion is to use a defender r380 suffix L as a base and convert it to a short r380. This is what i did. Its quite expensive to do though and needs more parts than you would probably think.

    Throw the disco box away though as the shifter is different.

    If your looking for cheap fix then get another lt77 or better still send yours to ashcrofts.

  19. I was thinking of taking the body off whole by using 2 scaffy poles and resting them on breeze blocks. Jack a corner pole up and slide another block in kind of thing. Think it'll work or think it'll end up collapsing on top of me ?

    roughly how heavy is the body ?

  20. Hi

    Having done 2 now I would echo the above, I would also add that its easier to run brake lines, wiring, fuel lines etc on the new chassis BEFORE you fit it, also if you need the vehicle working quickly then stay focused on the chassis swap and DON'T get distracted doing unnecessary work while its easy to get access etc, unless you have time to spare then obviously it makes sense. Are you taking the body off insections or 1 piece, I have always used the lift in 1 piece option...

    On a final note you MUST inform the DVLA of the chassis swap, they will want proof of purchase (receipt from marslands) and ideally proof of destruction of the old one, they may send you a new logbook or ask to inspect but its nothing to worry about, you don't need an IVA or anything just a quick check to make sure everythings kosher, then its all done nice and legally and theres no chance of future repercussions. I have just booked my VIC after my swap a few weeks ago and confirmed with the vehicle inspector that DVLA must be informed.

    Mike

    edit just found it here

    linky

    on the list of compulsory notifications

    "replacing or modifying the chassis/monocoque bodyshell"

    Many thanx all .. very helpful :)

    Is there anywhere that does a bolt kit for this kind of thing ?

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