jimmy_neutron
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Posts posted by jimmy_neutron
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Youll be sorry you ever said that.. Ive bought a speedo to do the same and would like the mileage sorted. Would that be a first class stamp??
Ah yes but that was an offer to western who has helped me out greatly in the past. The offer to western will stand just in case for any strange reason he needs another one done, I may even do one or two for long standing forummers for a forum donation, but i aint doing loads of em
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cost me IIRC 74 quid inc postage both ways.
74 quid ... i remember you talking about getting that done. If i'd known, I'd of done it for ya for the price of a stamp.
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Yes when you wind your display on it drops the decimal point. I clocked mine on by wiring in the speed sensing transducer that goes in the gearbox (all on the bench of course). The transducer flicks between a high and low signal. Turn the transducer till you have a high and fit a clock generator into the return wire. They wind on at about 800mph or so IIRC. I've got another one to do in a couple of weeks if anyone needs a proper guide to do it.
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Mmmmm... Is this definately a fraudster or just someone else who has had a grudge against this person?
If it's a fraudster then cool ...You have provided just enough info about them to let the party begin.
But if it is just some idiot with a grudge that has displayed that info then some poor innocent person has probably just become very poor.
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The battery earth is connected to the transfer box.. There is then a thinner wire around the passenger side engine mount that earths the body. If this is in poor condition then you will have a high resistance earth to all bodily functions. This may make some electrical items to backfeed to items that are wired to the engine ... like the stop solenoid. So i'd be checking the state of the body earth strap for a start.
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Thanx all.... I'm still building up my short R380. I have finished the gearbox and i'm just on with making the bell housing but time has been limited recently. I did replace my transfer box last week though for a one with 1.2 ratio which was a good step and the 200tdi handles it well. Logically i should of waited till i fitted the new gearbox but my transfer box was giving out some weird noises and bad vibrations.
I still have some vibration which i think is layshaft rattle, which is part of the reason for building the short R380.
But .. yesterday morning i was reading that it was common for the old flywheels to create/transmit vibration along the drivetrain. It was said that the dual mass flywheel solved this problem. I also can't see how this can be especially as they said the problem was worse at about 50mph...
Anyway .. My thought was, if it helps with vibration and the box is off anyway, and if it fits, then it may be worth a go.
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Does anyone know if the dual mass flywheel which was standard on a TD5 will fit onto a 200tdi without any great problems ???
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What's the purpose of the Ignition Light Resistor in my 1987 110 2.5 N/A Diesel?
I'm wondering if this resistor could be reason why the battery warning light doesn't come off by itself when I start the engine. Once I rev the engine up a little bit, the light disappears and the battery seems to be charging OK. I read somewhere that it means that the alternator is not excited properly when it is happening. It's not a big problem, but I'd rather fix it if I could.
I am speculating that with this resistor blown (connected in parallel to the battery warning light), there might not be enough current to be coming through one of the alternator's circuits and it doesn't self excite. Doesn't the manual say that before investigating alternator problems one should check the battery warning light first?
I would check this 100 Ohm resistor - if only I could find it on the truck! I've seen a picture that shows that it has to be under the dash board, on the right side (on my RHD vehicle). Is it supposed to be mounted somehow or simply burrowed among the harness wires?
I had that problem last winter ... didn't worry me though and i never even looked into what might be causing it. I fitted a new battery a good marine battery a few months ago as i needed power when the trucks engine isn't running and still wanted to be able to start it ok. Since fitting the new battery, my battery warning light goes off whilst just turning the engine over. Big difference. I wonder if your battery is just starting to fail.
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If anyones got an LT77 in bits off a 200tdi ... any chance of taking a measurement for me from the front edge of the cog to the end of the shaft. Ta.
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Although not a common fault, it is possible that your battery is discharging when not in use ...
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hi All, Further to my battery problem- when I try to turn the engine I just get a continual clicking sound from the starter motor. Surely 11.6 volts should be enough in the battery to start it? As soon as the jump leads go on it fires into life straight away. So, as my wipers and indicators work at normal speed, could it be the starter motor is at fault, needing extra current? thanks again.
Its not so much voltage as current that becomes the problem with a dead battery. If it starts fine with jump leads then either you alternator isn't charging your battery or your battery is dead. Try the battery voltage when trying to start the car. You will prob find that it drops to 9v or so indicated a discharged battery
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Thats not a short R380
Not sure what it is though cos the gear selector looks weird.
It may be a 300tdi disco box cos i've never looked at one of them
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I welded a sleeve on to the TD5 face plate!! may be an option??
Good plan Vinny. I've got a td5 face plate and an old TD one so i can make a good one out of the pair. Any idea how long the sleeve should be ??
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dont know if this will help the R380 used in the 200 series ldv vans is fited with a short input shaft just has a smaller spigit shaft.
Thats interesting .. any idea how short the bell housing is ??
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Maybe, how easy are the short input shafts to get hold of? Swap that over then its just finding/fabricating a short bellhousing thats the next stumbling block!
I wonder if any of the ex-mod places might have a short bellhousing, didn't the mod use these short R380s at some point?
Yes they did but i couldn't find one anywhere. Part number FTC4018.
The pinion shaft is also a LR part. You will need to know if you have got a 21 tooth or 22 tooth. I should be able to remember the part numbers if you need them. Then i'm planning on just cutting 30mm out of the 200tdi bell housing. Not done that part yet though. I keep looking at the job and putting it off till another day
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OK, the R380 version for Tdi gearbox is FTC3696
beamends site says it's supersed by FTC5371
Microcat shows suepersed by TVQ100130
All of them are Tdi versions and won't fit the box i'm building unfortunately.
Does HRC2677 show up on microcat as an available part ?
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Just enquired about this, the reply email (yesterday) was as follows:
"We are in the process of manufacturing the short R380 box but this project will not be complete for around 12 weeks and I cannot currently give you any price indication."
Time to start saving!
I talked to ashcrofts a couple of months ago and got to 12 weeks as well so don't hold your breathe.
Would you not consider making your own ? If ya can get hold of a good R380 out of a TD5 then you will have a suffix L box which is about as good as it gets.
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LT77 front assembly
FRC4856 upto & including suffix E box
FTC311 from sufix F
FTC1438 for prefix 50A suffix G & H & all prefix 56A
FTC2922 for prefix 61A
Thanks western but not of them will fit as the pinion bearing is larger on the R380 so won't fit into the plate.
I think the one i'm after will be listed as front cover for R380 4cyl excluding tdi.
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Finally got round to building myself a short R380 gearbox for my 200tdi tonight.
All went well and everything works (only tested by hand though) but i've had to fit the TD5 face plate at the moment as the LT77 one's bearing size is different. I need the style of the old TD / Tdi era with the shaft for the clutch bearing to slide up i think, unless anyone else knows of another option
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Yeah a bit of oil in the filter is normal.
If it bothers you then you i remember seeing a company that made a swirl pot (think thats what they are called) that fits externally so you don't pipe back to the filter.
Most older cars used a metal gauze to catch the oil. Some had this built into the filler cap and some were on the engine like the defender is. As yours doesn't have a gause then its hardly suprising that some oil gets past it.
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Hi there, had a search, but nothing really matches my issue.
I have a 1985 90, with a 200tdi in it. It has been converted [properly, using a smartveg system] to use veg oil.
For the last few months [been on veg oil for almost a year now], when I sit in a traffic jam or similar for more than a minute or two, a puff of white smoke [with maybe a hint of blue] comes out. This only happens on veg oil, not diesel.
As well as this, I have experience a loss of oomph from the engine. Previously I could manage a cruising speed of 75/80, now it is more like 65/70, and if there's any sort of hill, this drops to 55/60. This is on both diesel and veg.
I asked on a veg oil forum, and they said this often happens with old injectors. So I took them out and the local diesel injector man had a look at them, and said that they were fine. I put them back in and now it appears to have slightly less power than before!
Have also taken out the air filter [only a few months old], to check the air hoses are clear, and they are. There is a small amount of oil in the turbo pipe, more than I'd expect. Could this be the/a problem? Not noticed any odd noises from the turbo before.
Any ideas as to what it is/where to go next?
Think i have just sorted mine
My water pump started to leak badly 2 days ago so i ordered a new one from beamends. When it came it was a britpart one but looked suprisingly ok.
Fitted it this morning and heater is now like toasty and my veg oil temp is now warmer and more importantly the temp does not drop off when at idle and thus does not seem to start smoking after ticking over for a few mins. Not done any proper tests but its looking good so far.
Incidently the water pump that i removed was one that i bought from paddocks a couple of years ago. There was a 3mm gap between the pump paddle wheel and the front face. (was like this when i bought it but semmed to work so i wasn't upset by it). The new one from beam ends is much better made and there is next to no gap between the paddle wheel and face. Thus better pumping at low revs to keep the Heat exchanger hot.
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Someone i have just started to turn to is Beamends.
Pleasant conversation on the phone, good price, good catalogue although lacking pics. And he does exactly what he says he is going to do. Next day delivery is next day which is a huge help to me.
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hi, since doing the head gasket, timing belt, diesel pump and clutch on my 1992 200tdi 90, after driving for a while if i boot it in 4th, 5th and sometimes 3rd it loses power and graudually dies and settles untill it reaches 35-40 and sometimes when i slow down it will misfire and i find it hard to pull away again, i took out the air filter as it looked manky but no difference.
i was thinking mayby lift pump or blocked pipe as filter is new.
the engine is a disco one with a 90 timing case if that for some reason would make a difference
any help appreciated
cheers, ethan
I'd start by checking the timing. Make sure you get hold of the correct timing pins as the timing marks tend to be a couple of degrees out on a 200tdi.
Then if thats ok your looking for a fuel starvation problem. A clear BIC pen can be inserted into the fuel line to look for air in the fuel lines between the lift pump and the injector pump.
If you have just had the injector pump serviced then this could be the problem.
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Been told today after speaking to Andy at AJS that it's not going to cost me anything now.
Hopefully the gearbox will be repaired this week.
What age is the van ??
LT77 or R380 box ?
Rebuilding LT77 - is there a rebuild kit ?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
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A good quality rebuild kit aint that cheap. http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/part_85.html .In all honesty I'd say send your own gearbox to Dave Ashcroft and see what he thinks of it. Worst case is that you pay £395 but at least you know that it'll be right first time. Theres nothing worse than taking a gearbox off and on 5 times ..