jimmy_neutron
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Posts posted by jimmy_neutron
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The only advice i can give from stripping mine down, is that many components that "looked ok" turn out to be completely stuffed when you remove them. I guess it depends how much of a job you want to do on it, if you just bolt the knackered bits back on or replace them.
Mine needed a new seatbox, new bulkhead and it needs a new tub too. Ok i might have been able to salvage the old bits, but i decided i'd rather do it properly once, that have to strip it down again later as more stuff as rotted thru.
I had it on the ramps and everything else looked ok ... was it only when you started knocking things around that you noticed the other problems or could you kind of see it all anyway ?
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Took my 200tdi 90 for its mot.... It passed on absolutely everything except for the chassis
I've ordered a new galvanised chassis from marslands. I got a 200tdi front with a td5 rear so that i get the proper mounts for my rear tank.
Anything i need to know or any advice about doing the job ???????????
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I built a short R380 by changing the pinion and making a bellhousing shorter than the standard lt77 one.
I'm not sure if what you are doing will work but i can tell you that different suffix R380's have got different number of teeth on the pinion cog.
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thnx for the reply!!
yeap, i forgot to mention, the whole that you supose ti fit in the speed sensor i blank,no hole on the case, it may use the abs sensor to pick up speed signal.i don't know the exact year that belongs to but definently can't fit a speed sensor.who needs it anyway,can't go over the highway limit with that think anyway
The speedo cable can be used on the td5 box. just swap the magubbins over
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Yep, that's what the light is. Supposed to come on when you've locked the transfer diff. Will also stay on to warn of transmission wind up but no idea how it senses that. Will probably also come on if you have something loose somewhere
Its a plunger type sensor that is on the drivers side of the transfer box. It only a single wire and if this wire wears through or is grounded then your dashboard light will come on.
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many years ago i got a cheap plastic alignment tool with a clutch kit and it was fine until the dog chewed it. Now i just use my finger to align the clutch and strangely i've never had a problem
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Could be running rich at tickover. Set up the injection pump.
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If you have still got the rack from the 110 then just fit that and make some legs for the front.
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Long journeys do seem to kill the seals on the LT77 and R380. Best thing to do is to get and oil cooler fitted.
I got the plate for the side of the box from ashcrofts and got an oil cooler from the bay. Then just get some pipes made up and the job is done.
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Les, I went through a similar thing with my 200tdi which i know is different but in some ways the same if you know what i mean.
I replaced the pump for cheap ones twice and they lasted a while. Then i replaced it again but this time i forgot to fit the black plastic spacer plate. It lasted about a tank full. Then i fitted a genuine from landrover and it cost loads but its lasted. So i'd say check to see if you too have changed your pump at 10 at night tanked full of ale and have also thrown away a vitally important thing like a packing plate and then fit the genuine pump. Electric fuel pump is a really bad plan as insurers will see it as a change in safety case. For example if you are in a head on collision lets say and your fuel line is severed then your I/P will drag in air and your engine will cut out causing the current fuel pump to stop pumping which is good. Then think of the same scenario with your electric pump.
Cars with electric fuel pumps normally have some kind of fuel pump shut off shock sensor. Some are under the boot lip , some are beside the footwell, and more modern ones can be triggered by the clever airbag system.
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My 2001 Td5 has just over 200K on the clock and for the past few days there is a noise ( from what I suspect is the gearbox ) when the engine is idling .
The noise/rattle stops when you press the clutch so I'm thinking its the bearing on the input shaft . This would be the only part turning with the box in neutral ?
I fitted a complete new clutch last year including DMF - another reason I think the noise is from the gearbox .
What I would appreciate opinions on is :
(a) whether replacing a bearing would only be a short term fix due to the mileage ?
(b) would one of the bearing and seal kits which I have seen for sale be difficult to fit properly ?
© can a noisy bearing rattle away for long ?
Yes thay can rattle away for a while depending on how bad it is but realisically you are just putting off the inevitable which normally ends in tears.
The place to go is Ashcroft Transmissions (ashtrans on ere). It'll cost you, but theres nothing worse than dragging a gearbox in and out two or three times just to save yourself a few quid.
If you want a quick solution then you could maybe shim behind the nose cone but this is not really the done thing.
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Its hard to diagnose without seeing but if it was me i'd drop the water pump belt off and start her up just for a second or two to see if you still get the chirping noise. At a guess you won't which will lead you to the water pump. When the bearings fail in the water pump they can chirp a bit. The other thing that happens is that they can sometimes dump coolant very slowly when running and dump a load just after switching off the engine. This can cause an air lock and even cause the water pump to cavitate. As the coolant sensor is close to the water pump, the sensor can end up reading the trapped air temperature rather than the coolant temperature, this explaining the needle jumping around.
The worry of this is what other damage may of been done whilst overheating
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It always tends to come down to how much you want to spend...
I have a 200tdi and find no great problem with it. I've also driven a 300tdi and found that there wasn't much difference between them in terms of cabin noise or performance. The 200tdi is often stated as the strongest engine but if your getting a second hand one then I'd say just get the best engine you can lay your hands on at the time.
If you are going to be doing alot of motorway miles then i'd definately fit an R380 gearbox with an oil cooler otherwise your gearbox will leak oil and wear out very quickly due to excessive heat. Also as someone else said fit a transfer box with 1.22 ratio like the 300tdi disco then tweak the fuel pump just a little.
As mine is a 1991 i made a short R380 so i could keep the engine in the same place. Best R380 to get is a suffix L from a TD5 defender. This will give aprox 20% increase in gearing when both boxes are combined making everything much quieter and much more usable everyday.
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Yes it could be that, take the belt off and see if there is any play in the bearings
maybe .. or there was no longer any coolant at the sensor which causes the gauge to read low and then something died.
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I know I have seen a thread on here before, regarding fitting extra fuel tanks to a 300 Tdi. I think it was a TD5 tank that went between the chassis rails?
I have searched both the tech archive & done a general search, and cant find it.
Can someone either point me in the right direction, or tell me what is involved if you have done the job yourself.
I keep knocking this job back down the list of things still to do, as I have it in my head that it wont be a pleasant job.
Martin
If ya follow my link its in there somewhere
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Stating the obvious a bit but even a standard arm should last longer than a couple of years. As for the other parts then you do get cheap carp ens but even they should last.
A few simple things to look at ...
1) The shape/ condition of the arm's pivot ball.
2) The clutch not fully disengaging. This can be caused by knackered slave cylinder, master cylinder, Slave cylinder push rods being too long. Or more likely which would explain everything that you are getting is that your short piece of rubber hose down by your slave cylinder has collapsed internally blocking return flow to the master cylinder and releasng debris into the system. I don't suppose your clutch fluid is black ? This would explain you eating clutch parts rapidly.
3) The other thing it could be although unlikely is that you have got a short R380 gearbox on your 200tdi. The reason i say unlikely is cos you don't sound that lucky. The way to tell is that reverse will be below 5th. If this is the case and someone fitted the standard tdi clutch release bearing then the clutch will not fully release and cause endless problems.
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Hhmmm, i'd hope they would have lasted more than 3000 miles
I guess i could get them checked by the people who referbed them.If they have only been on for 3000miles then there's a fair chance that thats it. Before replacing then you could try some redex but realistically you probably got a tiny bit of carp in the pipe when you last changed em.
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You could always make a vertical brace then the shoulder part of the belt will actually be at the right height and not be trying to drag the poor passenger downwards.
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...rt=#entry234123
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http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...rt=#entry235746
You will need to let your insurance company know. Mine weren't interested as they are genuine landrover items. Hideous but true
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Have been planning on fitting a 300tdi to my series 3 109......but know since talking to a mate in germany im not sure if it would be just as good and cheaper and easier to fit a 2.5na???????????please can i have some pros and cons?? also if im not having power steering with the 300tdi what type of belt would you fit???
Depends what your going to use it for .. If your never going to drive it then an n/a will be fine. If your going to drive it alot then go for the TDi. If you can get hold of a good 200tdi from a defender then i'd be fitting that. They are a little bit noisier than the 300tdi but in my opinion a slightly better engine.
If it was my built, then i'd be getting the best Tdi engine i could find and mating it to an R380 suffix L gearbox.
Now theres a plan
my mrs is gonna kill me Sorry for the return question, but i've never own a series. How do they drive on the road ?, say if i had a series 2 or series 3 with leafs and a good tdi with good gearbox, will it drive on the road like a good defender or will it be sloppy?
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Thank you everybody, I think I may have sorted it, took the plug out again and had a good look at the thread on the plug and they didnt look to good so I took one of the other plugs out and fitted in the hole that I cross threaded, it started ok and I got a few turns by hand then done it up to the correct torque and it seems fine. Have I just been lucky or is it going to give me problems in the future? Cheers Kev
Just sell it un then it'll never cause you problems again
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This is in my '83 110 which benefitted from a 200tdi upgrade. The engine starts and idles fine, but after giving it some proper beans today, it started to lose power. I left it to idle, and then it ran up fine again - only to lose power 20 seconds later.
Searching through old posts, it certainly seems like it's either a blocked filter / lines / tank pickup screen - OR - a bad lift pump.
What I can't figure out is how lift pumps 'kind of' work - surely if they fail, it's because the diaphram has split and they won't supply ANY fuel? Is this not suggesting that my problem is more likely filter/line related?
I wish I could just go and find a new filter, but unfortunately I'm in the USA. I did order one ages ago to have on-hand, but misplaced it before fitting it...
What is the 'bleeding' procedure for this engine?
Get a clear BIC pen and chop the ends off then insert this into your fuel line just before the IP then you will know if you are getting excessive air in fuel or fuel starvation.
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I have a 200 tdi with the same tyres 235/85/16 i also have that problem although i have been told the disco transfer box i have (1.222) is geared too low with the tyres i have will sit all day at 60mph but hit a hill i have to drop it into 4th gear and rev its nuts off to get up the hill once on a stright back into 5th and seems ok but i rarely get the thing over 70mph on motorway too bloody noisy i go deaf after half hour of that i think i may have a similar problem but i have been told its the gearing
wozzer
I've got a 1.2 transfer box on my 200tdi. It increases the gearing by about 15% so it may need dropping a cog when going up hill or just sit at a higher speed and its ok
. To run this ratio transfer box you so need a boost and pump tweek to get the best out of it.
I guess i could get them checked by the people who referbed them.
. To run this ratio transfer box you so need a boost and pump tweek to get the best out of it.
failed mot ..
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
My van has never caused me any electrical problems .. but i suppose it's now over 18years old. How long do the electrics realistically last as i don't want work that i don't need but want it to last as well ?