jimmy_neutron
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Posts posted by jimmy_neutron
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Hi,
I have a 1986 Ninety with Defender 200Tdi engine and my LT77 needs replacing. I have an R380 with LT230 from a 1995 Defender 90 at hand. Is it a straight foreward swop or do I need to make modifications? If so, what kind of modifications.
Thanks for your help.
Cheers,
Rob
How long is your Bell housing not including the flywheel housing ?
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just got my 90 back from a mate who fitted a disco 200 tdi and box for me and im realy impressed but for a couple of small
problems as i drove it back in the dark i noticed the lights kept going dim then bright also the temp guage going into the red
when the lights went dim i bought the steve parker temp sender conversion the temp guage sits in the middle with the lights off but
with lights on it goes into the red strange me thinks....i took the thermostat out thinking it was stuck shut but still the same
and the coolant seems cool to touch in the expansion tank with the engine hot could it be a faulty water pump ? and a bad earth
somewhere ??????please help
I had this once with a dodgy alternator. Don't ask me which part of the alternator cos i don't know cos i just changed the whole unit.
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It's a bit like most things.. brand new would be good, a low milage well loked after would be nearly as good. A high milage well looked after may be ok, and an average milage not so well looked after may also be ok. So really these things always come down to money. If it drives absolutely flawlessly then it may be fine. For how long depends on how you look after it and how well you maintain it.
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I got the sensor today, But it still dead! So I have taken out the gauge out and checked the connections where live & earth both read right. There is no broken wire from the sensor to the gauge so to me that leave the gauge being dead, What do you think? The gauge does not move a wink or anything, is it still worth trying these test cipx2? even with the thermostat stuck it should be able move it a tad or something? ......JJ
I thought you had already tested the guage and it raised to full ???
Which sensor did you buy in the end ??
If your doing the boiling water test then remember to earth the body of the sensor.
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I've heard about ashcrofts and will ring them tomorrow cos the guy i need to talk 2 wasn't aboot today.
Tried legs but there was no answer and i seem to remember someone saying they had folded.
Anywhere else thats worth trying (don't want cheap tat parts though) ?
Preferably up north but not that fussed
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After 14 months of faithful service, i've just killed another recon Lt77 gearbox on by 200tdi defender.
Was thinking about fitting an R380 this time but realise that i will need to change the input shaft and the bell housing.
I know ashcrofts will do the gearbox already made up but if i spend £800 on a gearbox then i'll need a whole load more cash for a divorce.
Thought is .. take a chance on a TD5 gearbox and transfer box. Take it to bits and change the input shaft.
Is there anything else i need to change other than any worn parts ?
Is it easy to recon a box or is it best left to the experts ?
Anything i need to know about ?
Which bellhousing do i use ?
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ERR2081 is also the temp sender for Td5 cooling system, cos I had one here for a experiment.
Cheers western i thought old age was creeping in
If it is a 200tdi and it was mine then i'd be going for PRC8001 as an AMR1425 is for a 300tdi but i aint getting into a handbags at dawn about it
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I just put a £99 cheapo on mine a couple of years ago and its been ok.
TBH its more likely to die from a high speed pheasant with a death wish than old age, so i'd much rather loose less money when this happens again, if ya see what i mean.
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it was the headlights / saying 300tdi that made my ears prick up!
I just watched it again cos i had a thought that LR maybe gave them the 300tdi prior to production as a way of testing it and proving to the public that its a good reliable engine.
Kept that in mind all the way through and it was starting to look slightly possible until near the end when he pops the bonnet up and sitting there is a 200tdi.
The guy who was doing the talking was probably just nervous with being on camera and made a genuine memory mistake as it was 18years ago, but for a LR magazine to of missed that is pretty poor i think.
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Part number for the green as cipx reply above, IIRC the black one is AMR3321.
as a green was fitted a new green one should hopefully sort it.
Isn't AMR 3321 just fitted to defenders ??
You could do with giving us a clue as to the age of your disco. It may of had the wrong sensor fitted originally and therefore you have fitted another wrong one. Does it look like someone has bodged the wiring at the sensor to make something fit that shouldn't be there ?
200tdi disco1 should have PRC8001 which looks like..
300tdi disco 1 until 1998 should have ERR2081 which looks like..
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Hi all
I have to renew a timing belt, tensioner, idler on a 300TDI 90
The problem is the 300TDI engine was out of a old disco (and fitted to a 1986 90)
Paddock list 2 different kits which have different part numbers
How can i work out which one i need ??
Many thanks all
Chris
Early 300's had a small belt issue. If yours hasn't been sorted then it'll probably use the early parts as you say the engine was out of an old disco. If the belt issue has been sorted then it may use the new numbers.
Have a read through .. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=26269 and http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=12788 out of the archive.
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Just got LROI mag as i'm in for a long weekend at work.
Watched that camel trophey DVD and to be fair i thought it was quite interesting. I'm not all that into all that driving around in the mud and getting cold just for the fun of it
, so it was all quite new to me.Some dude was talking about his H reg disco that he did the competition in and said that it was a 300tdi.
Is that true ?
I listened to them driving along and there were only a couple of parts when you could really hear the engine note but it did sound like a 200 to me.
Surely he would know what he was driving ???
Think i need to get a life
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Best thing to do is probably fill in ur location in ur profile. Someone may take a quick peek at it for ya cos ya never know ya luck.
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Which way does the actuator rod needs adjusting ? does it need to be longer or shorter, and does it just need a few turns on the threads ?
Shorter ..
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cool name
The list is endless as you probably already know.
Incorrect or degraded ignition coil. Ht leads breaking down which is reasonably common cos 'they don't make em like they used to'.
Fuel line running too close to the exhaust.
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http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresult...amp;sortValue=1
http://www.4site4x4.co.uk/advice_offroad.aspx
Tyre selection is a very personal thing and depends on exactly what you what to do with the car and how often etc.
For example, i do alot of heavy towing and require good stability and grip on roads. I am willing to sacrifise a bit of grip in deep mud to get this. I do need good grip on gravel and light off road. I don't like alot of road noise because my van does do a bit of long distance driving at times.
I use pirelli scorpians.
If i only did off road then i'd use bfg m/t
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Got it done ...
Decided to put it here http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...rt=#entry385417 so that i can find it again if someone asks again in future.
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Write it up Jimmy, I'm curious
Mo
Ok mo, i'll get the camera out tomorrow if its not raining.
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I'm thinking about one, however, I would be interested to know why the left side of the radio is in fact nice and warm and cosy while the rest of the car....
Huh .. don't see what you mean ...
Do you mean that no air is blowing onto the drivers side of the windscreen but is on the left ?
If so it'll be the duct come off the vent which is behind the speedo panel.
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Last october i picked up a webasto thermo top V brand new for about £100. This is much cheaper than most thermotop's are selling for second hand. The whole job, all in was probably about £200 with all new parts, but could probably be done cheaper by shopping around.
I spent a while doing some research and bought the rest of the bits like a timer and the proper fuel pump, pipes etc.
Now that the warmer weathers here i decided to get round to fitting it all
The main worry about this burner unit is that every search that you do on google tells you not to buy one because it's impossible to make it work due to it using can-bus signals.
Anyway i decided to take up the challenge .. and it turned out to be fairly simple afterall. I suppose it always is when you have the knowledge.
These heaters are fitted to disco3's so there will probably be a few starting to turn up in the scrappy's.
If anyone else is interested in doing this mod then let me know and i'll do some pic's and an electrical diagram..
Now back to my warm cab to find something else to play with
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hi there, wonder if anyone has suggestions. I have a 10yr old 110csw defender 300TDi. Very infrequently i experience a total loss of all power forcing me to glide to a halt, my battery warning light remains on. After 20 secs or so perhaps a minute a minute i start up and off we go again. This has proved inconvenient when it happens at traffic lights or last time on a small bridge causing tailbacks !! i was advised a faulty fuel pump to blame and a new one fitted but still happens. Foreman at a landrover garage mooted it might be a faulty immobiliser but his garage doesnt deal with vehicles as old as mine. So no help there. A garage mechnic suggested a low battery in my ignition keyring could be to blame. i checked and it was low so i have replaced but is this true ? I am worried this happens to me on a busy road where I cant glide to a halt easily. Any suggestions ??...anyone ?
I agree with scube ... check that both earth straps are in good condition.
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OK, an update and not sure what it means.
Lovely day here so took afternoon off since clambering about under The Beastie much easier when dry
Front prop shaft has no seeming wobble; nuts look tight and the UJs greased up OK.
Rear propshaft again has no seeming wobble other than at the handbrake drum which I think is normal. The UJs greased up OK but my puzzle is that when I rotated a rear wheel it did not turn the prop shaft as it usually does. Also if I run the rear O/S wheel forward then the rear N/S seems to go backwards and vice versa.
I have checked and the transfer box is in normal High position.
To me this looks like transfer box or a diff problem but never had to try and puzzle transmission woes out before. I am sure that before when greasing the rear UJs I just wound a wheel until the prop shart was in the right position.
Any thoughts??
Thanks
Malcy
If both rear wheels are off the ground then one will rotate backwards on opposite wheels as you describe.
If your car drives when in 2wd high or low then you are barking up the wrong tree. If the rear diff was totally goosed then the only way to drive it would be in 4wd.
Your props can't properly be checked on the car. They need to be removed and then feel each joint.
Take your props off and check them again before worrying about anything else
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It's part of the engine harness & if your uprating the alternator all the main power cables from Alt to starter & battery need uprating to cope with the increased amperage.
Thanks western. I was hoping that just changing from the standard 45A to the standard 65A would meen that i could just leave the standard wiring but i suppose its nothing of a job to change it while i'm there.
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Hi again!
What are the average/approx lifetimes of the injection pump and turbocharger on the TDi engines?
Injection pump ... 15-18years and the seals start to perrish and need replaced
Turbo 250,000 miles or until it swallows something
, so it was all quite new to me.
td5 90 gearbox???
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
As above .. if one of the retaining circlips has popped off or not been fitted then it'll probably need a ne uj again. Good news is that its easy to check.