jimmy_neutron
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Posts posted by jimmy_neutron
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Thanks jimmy!
Will try and have a look at them later today !
The annoying thing about the brake vacuum pump is that it can look ok even internally but still make a right racket.
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who running bio in there td5 defender or disco, any problems? what concentration how long u been running it?
assuming its good fuel.
thanks for your help on this ive found i can get it in bulk and want to know if its safe
thanks dan
Don't do it.
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Just got round to stripping down to the cam belt to check the timing/crank damper wood ruff key and much to my disapointment everthing looks fine
except for a load of oil in there, everthing lines up!If the tap sounds like tappets but you have checked them and they are ok then the sound will be most likely either the fuel lift pump or the brake vacuum pump. The lift pump is easy to check because you can simply remove and blank it for a very short period. The vacuum pump is a bit harder cos you shouldn't run the engine with it removed because of the cogleys underneath.
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As above ,I have never seen my one move, the silicon hoses swell up but never seen rod move or do you have to really rev it for a long time? Help please I dont want to blow it up! thankyou Angus
I sharp stab of the throtte should see it move a bit ( prob achieve about 0.2 - 0.2 bar). But you won't see it move much. Best things to do is fit a boost guage to check pressure and then make sure linkage is free as threesheds said.
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how much shorter would make a noticeable difference?
mikey
Mines in as far as it will go without shortening the shaft and that gives me 1 bar.
You really do need a gauge to set this though.
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I know that feeling, I'm not very keen on the raised bonnet or the Discovery dash or the Transit engine in the latest vehicles, rather drop a Td5 into mine one day in a far distant galaxy.
I run on veggie with a twin tank setup (TD5 tank under the rear). This is because i tend to do long runs so it keeps my fuel bills well down. This of course means that a TD5 is out of the question for me. There are some things i do like about the new ones though.. like the new rear seats for the kids.. the TD5 speedo etc.. and the webasto engine preheater in the disco 3 .. So thats why i just bought em and fitted em into mine.
I'd like the steering wheel that u got but thats me just getting fussy. I think when it comes down to it, its just my van. I've sweated blood making it the way it is and I get in it and it feels like an old friend. When i sit in a new one, it just feels like its got no soul. And with no soul i got noone to keep me company whilst i'm driving around.
Needless to say my mrs would prefer a new shiney one .. So i bought her a new S-max last week to keep the peace. Thats a lot a landie bits she owes me in exchange
Hence the gearbox etc i'm doing now whilst i can get away with it. -
Hello people
I am just about to buy a mate a disco 300tdi.
When I drove it it was a bit weak on power until it hit 2000rpm
Is this normal
My Defender has power all the way through the scale
Also there is rot around the rear door catches on the wheel arch, is this an expensive mend and any ideas of cost?
Thanks for your answers in advance
Ed
It can kind of normal in a broken kind of way... It can be as simple as the rubber on the small hose on the turbo has perrished. Can also be down to poor setup of the injector pump which would just need an internal cog turning a couple of teeth ... or of course it could be something much more serious.
I'd get a one that drives good unless the price says differently.
You could always get it looked at by a landie person who you trust or display your rough location and someone may take a peek at it.
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your going to be extremely busy doing these & making a short bell housing R380.
Ur not kidding .. And finishing rebushing.. and fitting new springs... and new shockers .. and changing the ratio in the transfer box when i get my new one.. the list goes on and on.
I'm just too fussy about my defender really.
Poor old girl is getting on a bit now and it just seems like everything is starting to go pear shaped together. Totally refuse to replace her with a newer one though cos it just wouldn't be the same
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I think the only different is an additional sensor for Low gear which is not wired at the TDI.
Interesting .. I'd never even heard of this.
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hi everyone just got some spot lights for the a bar on my td5 90 looking for any top tips for wiring them up as i'm not the biggest fan of messing about with electrics.
and while i'm here i do a lot of motoway miles in the landy thinking off changing the gearing just wondered the best way of doing it
cheers
ben
Presuming that you have aleady got 235/85/R16 tyres on with apropriate wheels then the best way is to alter the transfer box ratio from 1.410 to 1.222. The 1.410 is the standard ratio when in high so you low box will not be affected. The 1.222 was standard on the discoverys.
Ashcroft transmissions do a kit or would probably do it for you. Otherwise rob the bits from a disco.
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Your on your own with this & if I find my R380 is missing I'll know whose nicked it won't I
Now theres a good plan B). I'll swap ya .. ur box for a pint o whiskey.
Only problem is i wouldn't trust my box to last me all the way down to cornwall otherwise i'd take ya up on that offer
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No Didn't I deny all knowledge of it
Well .. when i got thinking about it, it cant be that hard can it
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I'd suggest drain the oil before welding, might be worth dropping the stubs/hubs off to prevent any damage to seals.
Cheers bud ..
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I have worked out that the easiest was is to just to buy the complete assembly TRC103140 but ashcrofts don't have one unfortunately and they cost serious money.
So I have been digging around to find another way...
I've been offered a TD5 gearbox with transfer box still attached off a 2006 defender thats done about 26000 miles for £400 +vat + delivery.
I need a bell housing FTC4018. I can't get one of these so Western has kindly talked me into making one.
Next i will need the short pinion.. and this is where my question is ... I think i need FTC1428 but can someone please confirm this ??
I have also been told that the early r380's have got a 26 tooth cog on the pinion and the Td5 R380 has 27 teeth. Can't find any other info relating to this though..
Anyone else built there own short R380 cos its starting to drive me mental.
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Indeed! I have a box from a 2002 110 behind my LT77. Nothing at all to worry about, just take the speedo drive from the old box.
Many thanks all
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most 300 tdi's are leccy too (mine is)
My 200tdi is leccy too .. B) So that wouldn't be a worry.
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Whats the difference between a TD5 transfer box and a tdi transfer box?
Will a TD5 transfer box fit straight on to a Tdi ?
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Hi all, as the title sugests i have oil weeping from around the base of my injectors. it's a 96 300tdi with 76.000 on. the side of the head and block was covered, so i applied some jizer and jet washed the engine. this cleaned it up nicely. went for a short drive and when i got back the oil was definatly coming from near the base of the injectors. just cant quite tell where from. has anyone had similar problems? and know how to fix it? thanks in advance.
Check the little pipes on the injectors. The leak back pipes do tend to work loose and tend to cause no other problem to the running of the engine other than it get wet. Dont break a fitting though or ya'll be in for some serious work to sort it out.
As for the injector leaking engine oil .... No not really. The injector goes through the head and into the top of the cylinder, so if it was oil in the cylinder then when you are running your engine, so much smoke would be pouring out of the exhaust that you would no longer be concerned about a wet engine. The only slight possibility .. and i do mean slight .. is that the head is cracked in such a way that oil is leaking onto the injector .. and the injector seal would need to be leaking to blow this oil about. Thats going a bit far though and i've never heard of any engine experiencing this, so i'd be checking for simple leaks first
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found these on ebay trialing arm bracket
Many thanks bud
2 on order .. bit more pricey than i thought but worth it to stop me leaving my axle behind
Any thoughts on welding these on?
I presume its best to empty the axle of oil but is that right ??
Also presume the heat from the weld will stay fairly local and not damage any seals ?
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Been rebushing my 90 200tdi and found that the welded on bracket on the rear axle which connects to the rear trailing arm is getting a bit rusted away.
Is it possible to get new brackets or do i need to make some ?
Is there any problem with welding to the axle tube ?
Do i weld the axle with it full / empty of oil ..
Ta
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Hi my 200 tdi engine almost dies when you lift off after reving it, did it before i changed the timing belt and filter, still does it now.Anyone else had this? any suggestions please
Sounds like a leak in the intercooler or more likely the intercooler hoses to me... Also check for other vacuum leaks.
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ive tried to change the diesel filter and its gone wrong ???? how i can hear you saying answer is i dont know.
i bought a new filter to fit read this article : http://www.landroverclub.net/Club/HTML/Mai...fuel_filter.htm
and i removed the retainer nut pulled off the old filter caught the fuel from it in a clean tub.
then i tried the new filter for size its the wrong type
soooo. i cleaned up the original as best i could and tried it back on it started for a second caughed a big chest full of smoke and died .
ive now got a battery thats nearly flat due to trying it again an again for nearly an hour. whats wrong people.
First thing that would be nice to know is what age is your defender and which engine do you have ...
Presuming that you have say an original 200tdi then when you refitted your filter there should be an outer rubber sealing ring and a small inner rubber sealing ring. If these aren't seated properly then you will likely drag in air especially if your lift pump is u/s.
The way to check your lift pump is to loosen the bleed screw on the top of the filter housing and then move the arm up and down on your lift pump. The arm sticks out of the rear lift pump. If you don'y get a good spirt of diesel out of the filter then replace your lift pump. However the injection pump should still be able to drag fuel from the tank at a reduced rate even without the lift pump so you will still need to work out where you are dragging in air from. Also check that you closed the drain on the bottom of the filter.
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Same on the 200TDi - supply is always from the head area as the water is restrcicted at that point by the thermostat and therefore heats up quickly.
Les.
As les said .. Out at the rear of the engine closest to the bulkhead.
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My K reg 200tdi disco had exactly this problem and it was diagnosed as the swash plate in the injector pump producing swarf which in turn prevented the fuel solenoid from closing. Apparently this was a very common problem with 200tdi s and mine was even fixed for free by Bosch but that was some 10 years ago.
As above ... remove the solenoid and if your lucky you can sometimes see the offending bit of swarf and gently pull it out. Often though its a pump strip down job which aint cheap. If the pump is also leaking then i'd cosider getting it resealed now anyway and get it well checked out as it will prob fail its next mot anyway.
except for a load of oil in there, everthing lines up!
I'd like the steering wheel that u got but thats me just getting fussy. 
Hence the gearbox etc i'm doing now whilst i can get away with it.
where can I get new ones of these
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I'm strugging to image what your up 2 ...
Connectors quite often come from tyco ... http://catalog.tycoelectronics.com/catalog...576,17560,16976
I couldn't work out which ones so i'll leave the hard bit to you.