jimmy_neutron
-
Posts
557 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by jimmy_neutron
-
-
A 200tdi is normally a good strong engine.
The important part is how long it was run on a strong blend of petrol.
A small % of petrol in the diesel doesn't matter. In colder countries people use petrol as a thinning agent for diesel. The biggest problem is the low cetane value. This can be corrected using additives, but in your case it will get sorted on the next fill up.
I use 1% petrol in mine for thinning veggie oil with a cetane booster, heat the mix, and all has been fine..... so far
-
http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/69A3151A0A0.aspx
Also this may be of interest to you
http://www.geocities.com/electric_honda/powrbrak.html
May be worth contacting LDV as i think they may have fitted them pump to some of their large vans.
-
Mine has started doing it as well, not too bad though ..
I've ordered the bits (RTC3346HS) from paddocks and i'll get round to it soonish
My van does about 130 miles a day, if that helps you with how urgently i'm dealing with it.
If left it with start to cause premature wear in the transfer box and diffs. The will go bang
-
The Beastie got an MOT a fortnight ago and one thing needed was a new steering box due to excessive leaks. Not sure if it is connected to this issue but just in case ..
Anyway everything sounds hunky dory when motoring but when I slow down to a stop, with gear either in neutral or clutch in, there is a nasty whirring or clunking noise coming from the sort of gearbox/drive train area under the cab. It does not seem to be there when under power, and the other day I rolled a bit down a hill without the engine on and it made it still.
I have not had a chance to go under but if it isn't something obvious (and I have a suspicion it isn't otherwise I would hear it when engine powering) what sort of thing should I be looking for?
It is a puzzle but I don't know how serious it is. I do need to fix it since we are away for a decent trip over the next three or four weeks and do not fancy breaking down and ruining plans
Any thoughtss or pointers would be really appreciated.
Thanks
Malcy
Look at prop shaft UJ's. Especially the front one
-
Is the cable between the alternator and starter (main charge cable) the same part number on a 90 200tdi without aircon (45A alternator) as the same cable on a 90 200tdi with aircon (65A alternator).
Wanting a definate answer to "do i need to change the cable when fitting a 65A alternator".
TA
-
All oils and filters changed a few hundred miles ago, just checked the air filter and all the intake hoses and they are as new.
Boost gauge should be here and fitted next week.
could old / knackered injectors cause these problems ?
Check that the wastegate actuator is connected and working.
the circlip on mine came off once
-
Noting Jimmy's post, I fitted a TD5 tank in the back of my 300TDi, not least because insurance is easier if your modification is mainly fitting a standard Land Rover parts. There are excellent posts on nhow to do it here
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=23208&st=0
and
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...i+TD5+fuel+tank
This approach does requires some fairly serious grinding and welding, but ends up with a robust solution. For the record, I also tried re-shaping the TD5 tank to avoid cutting out the rear cross member stiffener. I tried using heat, and a cut/plastic weld. Complete failure all round.
My steelwork is a little different from the above posts as I wanted to keep the rear anti-roll bar as an option.
I decided against a fuel change-over switch as I had heard from a kit supplier (probably the one in this thread) that the lift pump struggled lifting from the rear tank (this may be questionable). For filling, I made a T pipe off the main filler pipe going to the rear. I put in a facet transfer pump and piping from the rear to the filler pipe for the front. This means that when the front fills up, if the transfer pump is still on, excess fuel drains back to the rear through the T of the filler. I did put in a changeover switch for the fuel gauge to save having a second gauge.
I have now run my setup for about 10 tank fulls including some reasonable green-laning with no problems. From completely full on both tanks to as empty as I dared go I can get a range of 620 miles, though it is usually in the high 500's if I don't let the level get too low.
Do reply or pm me for more details if you decide to go this route.
Regards
Richard
The LR lift pump does not struggle to lift diesel from the rear tank.
I wouldn't run veggie oil from the rear tank as it may struggle with this. I have my veggie in the front tank and diesel in the rear.
-
Took Westerns advice and went for the allisport ones.
Its made a huge difference
-
FAO LES
-
I want to test an intercooler for leaks but how?
-
The diaphram and star wheel have already been turned 90 dregrees, but i'll take it out and have a looksee.
On a standard intercooler and 1 bar boost i'd only turn 45 degrees. But its all down to personal choice.
-
TBH if you got a 200tdi 90 that'll only do 74 then theres something wrong.
Do you get a sound that seems to be rattley tappetty at about 2500 rev's ( may only happen when the engine is warmed up)
If so then your fuel lift pumps arm has disconnected from the lift pump.
Also worth disconnecting the outlet pipe from the lift pump and giving the handle on the lift pump a few ups and downs to see if any fuel comes out. If no fuel comes out then either the arm has disconnected itself or the diaphram is goosed.
Thats my best guess especially if your not smoking excessively.
-
replaced my rubber hoses with blue silicone ones from Allisport.
did it make a difference ?
How did you know when it was time to replace ?
-
My intercooler hoses are a bit oily on the outside. i have removed them but can't find any leaks. The oil can't really be coming from anywhere else so at a guess it must be the hoses ??
Saw these http://www.lrsoffroad.co.uk/shop/index.php...&id_ctg=158
Do you think they will be any good or any recommendations ? or places not to go ?
-
I thought as much, this means im gonna be busy!!
cheers for the reply.Regards Guy.
If its gone in the rear face then get the member with legs on it cos you will likely need the legs as well.
Also makes em easier to fit.
-
If they are definately ok and just a small amount of surface rust then just wire brush em over and smother them in grease.
-
If your drilling 10mm + holes in brick then SDS is the way to go.
But if you are drilling small holes or dilling into steel then stick to a standard drill with speed control.
-
Well my pillar drill won't run properly on the inverter. It starts and gets up to speed, but you can grab the chuck and stop it very easily. A couple of knowledgeable people have looked at it and can't figure out what the proplem is (inverter just shows an error code). It might be the motor though, so I'll strip it down when I have time.
Les.
Sounds like you have got a 240vac single to 3 phase invertor .. meaning you get 3 phase at 240vac. This is ok. But if the motor is wired in Star and not delta then it will perform as you describe. The other reason is that it could be a 415vac delta motor and you are only providing 240v.
If you send me a pic of the terminal cover with the lid off. A pic of the back of the lid if its still got stuff written in it and a pic of the motor plate then i can let you know if you want.
Also a make and model number of the invertor would be good.
-
5 year unconditional warranty..
Thats an impressive offer B)
-
Just go to lancaster, they don't seem to worry about much at all.
-
i have just brought a progerss pillar drill. got it quite cheaply and was told that it will run on 240v. it has 4 wires running into it. blue, black, brown and green/yellow. from this i would presume it would only run on 3 phase. i know that you can get inverters to change 240v single phase to 240v three phase and to 415v three phase. can i just conferm that as it had 4 wires it will need three phase. or a replacment motor.
thanks for the help.
As phil said it'll be 3 phase and earth wires. Before looking at getting a single to 3 phase invertor you will need to know whether the motor is star or delta wound. Most have a terminal cover where you connect the wires into. In this terminal cover will be some brass links on some brass studs. On the bottom of the terminal cover lid is normally a diagram that will tell you which way the links go for star / delta.
For a 240v single to 3 phase invertor you need to have your motor delta wound.
Do not attempt to wire this motor without in invertor, meaning just guessing with the wires and plugging it in as it will go bang ... guaranteed.
If you can get a 240v single phase motor cheap enough then thats the best way to go.
-
Seen that once before on a Mk3 escort. Turned out to be a duff alternator.
Best test i can think of is to disconnect the thin wire on the back of the alternator which i think will have a spade connector and see if the light goes out. If it does then theres your problem.
-
Don't compete but mine does often get heavily used.
I clear the front window when i can't see out and clean the side windows when the kids moan that they can't see out. Otherwise its just all down to cumbrian weather to do the cleaning.
-
well i'm old anuff to have had a mini.
but only ridden in an allegro mum and dad had one or two
the box i took out was fine when i got it but was getting worse
the one i just put in is a newer box on lower milage
TBH they are all slightly different and all have their little quirks.
IIRC 1st and reverse don't have a syncro which doesn't help and is partly why dropping through the gate of 2nd helps.
Adjusting the clutch in the pedal box so that the nuts are closer to the end of the rod a bit may help just enough.
cheers for the reply.
gutless disco
in Discovery Forum
Posted
If it isn't the EGR then it could be a pin hole in the intercooler or in any of the intercooler hoses.
Also chec the thin hose to the turbo wastegate actuator. A hole in this will dramatically affect performance