smallfry
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Posts posted by smallfry
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51 minutes ago, Retroanaconda said:
I can’t see any scratches in those photos?
Fair enough you basically have to pay up if it’s damaged even if you didn’t do it, but if they cannot provide you some evidence of the damage they don’t really have anything to charge you for.
Actually thats a very good point. I can't see any damage of note in those pics.
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Did they offer an insurance waiver when hiring ? I know it doesn't help now, but something to think about in the future.
This is the trouble with them when you hire. They want you out of the door ASAP, and you want to on your way. How do you know they not there when you hired it ? Unless you crawl round on your hands and knees and its not raining, how are you going to spot this ? Most importantly. were you there in person when the car was returned and the scratches were spotted, or did they come back to you later ? If so, or they picked the car up and you were not present, I would say that it was fine when it left me, and you can go forth and multiply.
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Apprenticed body and paint in the late Seventies, got out of as a job as I hated it. No idea on up to date prices really, but to touch it in doesn't really work as it can be seen usually, and I imagine a panel spray will cost north of £300 these days.
I cant really see anything much with the photos, so they might polish out. There are also scratch concealing polishes which are not too bad.
Someone like Chips Away will give you an idea on price, but I can normally spot their work, and if you want it done, have it done while the weather is warm.
Is this a lease car by any chance ? They will have you bent over a barrel !
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3 hours ago, western said:
It's been removed 🤔
I did report both of them.
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1 hour ago, L19MUD said:
Facebook is full of it currently. Very annoying
It is, but I wonder if many people get shafted. It is getting difficult to tell what is genuine.
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1 hour ago, landroversforever said:
As they've both gone now.... was it a seller with multiple cars thousands under valued with the same description for each one? Saw one the other day with over 40 listings like it.
Not the same description, but the words and how they were used were very similar Very disparate locations.
One was a VERY nice 2012 110 pickup with a crew cab and sawtooth wheels, and other was another immaculate 110, again 2012, one was £6K the other £6.5K
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Exactly what I thought, just added another ad from different seller, very similar wording.
I know prices have gone down lately, but really ?
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https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/952488176046808
Should I be rushing to give a deposit sight unseen ??
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/6685067131559508/
Similar wording, different "seller" ?
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2 hours ago, auto660 said:
Just picked up a 4HP24 from a Jaaggggg for cheap, it's coded 1043-030-059. The torque converter measures about 300mm (11,75") in diameter, would that be the medium one (with the smaller shaft) or the large one (with the larger shaft)?
Thats the medium size one. There are many specs though. Physical difference will be the mounting points and the boss that fits into the end of the crankshaft.
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All the Jag ones I have seen have a proper flange on the output shaft.
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The only LR one that will be any good to you is the 065. There is another one, a 005, but I cant remember what it fits, and I have only ever seen one.
I dont know about the Jag ones, I only have 4HP22s from them, and a couple of BMW ones, so I cant help you with numbers. TBH I think you would be better off with a Jag one, and swap the bellhousing. From what I can remember they have the input shaft you need. They have the right tailshaft, but the rear mount is offset to one side, so you could sway the housing for your Volvo one, or BMW which I think is the same.
Jag engines are quite torquey, so may have better internals.
I know what you mean about budget, thats why I will stick with the 4HP boxes
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The 4HP24 is LONGER than the 22 by about 15mm. The input shafts can be longer.
4HP24 is rated to 450 nm. I do not know if or how it can be uprated from there. It would probably need more plates and increased pressures, but I don't know know if it can be done with these, like it can with American boxes.
Might be better off going for a 6HP26 with an adaptor plate. Much stronger, cheaper to buy and would not need uprating.
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You can swap the bellhousing and you can swap the tailshaft housing. BUT the Land Rover versions of the 4HP24 are all for use with a transfer box for the 4WD bolted to it, so to use one, you will need to strip the box and change the tailshaft itself as well. Jaguar versions will have a RWD tailshaft and housing, and possibly BMW. The rear mounting arrangement may be different, but you could just swap the housing. The other thing is most of these tailshaft housings have no provision for a speedometer output. I am not familiar with Volvo so do not know how that works
Also, the earlier Range Rover 4HP24 has a different input shaft to suit a bigger torque converter which will probably not fit in the Volvo bellhousing. You would have to physically try it. The later gearbox has a smaller shaft, which will be the same as your Volvo one.
I know nothing about electronics, so cannot help with that aspect.
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18 hours ago, Snagger said:
The off-white roof and wheel colour on Series vehicles is called Limestone. Anderzander will tell you all about it. 😉
Has he done his wheels yet ?
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15 minutes ago, reb78 said:
What puts me off is getting the breathing gear wrong and killing myself with the 2k paints. What are folk using for breathing masks ?
I do mine outside under a gazebo with a North respirator. Wouldnt do 2K indoors unless you have proper extraction and an air fed mask.
I live in the country so its not bothering anyone. I wouldnt use 2K if I lived in suburbia though. I use HVLP which produces less overspray anyway, but the trouble with 2K is that the overspray does not flash quickly like cellulose does, so it could stick to your neighbours car/window frames/cat.
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I did an apprenticeship Body and Paint back in the late 70s, so am completely out of touch with prices, but they do seem to be absolutely outrageous now. Even the figures you quoted, I'm bu**ered if I would even consider paying that. Not for a Land Rover.
You say body off strip down. Do you mean into component pieces ? This in itself will cost a lot of money, and I dont think many, if any, bodyshops will want to do that, as it takes a LOT of time, and a LOT of space. If this is what you want, then its best if you strip it yourself and take the cleaned bits to them. Will still be expensive though.
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Probably a far more useful thing to have.
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That Pertronix Flame Thrower coil has a very low impedance ISTR. I have no idea with electronics, but could this have something to do with it ?
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Have you got an earth to the body of the rev counter ?
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Good to see you have a Renault Master Mk2. Best van ever.
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Easier and cheaper to just buy a conversion kit from Motor & Diesel.
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1 hour ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Never seen that, maybe I never read the manual closely enough - but then I always just bin the head bolts & fit ARP studs anyway.
Well its there. In the proper factory Rover P5B and P6 manuals, also RRC and 90/110. Applies to the front cover/water pump/inlet manifold bolts too.
Not properly consulting the workshop manual ? Tut tut. Shameful.
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10 hours ago, Bigj66 said:
I also had those symptoms in my Thor V8 and when removing the heads for a gasket change noticed the head bolts came out quite easily which I wasn’t expecting. No sign of damage on the gaskets and it’s been fine since so my assumption was that the heads had been incorrectly torqued down during a previous gasket change.
Originally the head bolts were supposed to have a low strength threadlock/sealer applied. I don't know if they still are, or new bolts come with preapplied stuff ?
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Are you confident with your present arrangements that it would be difficult to drive away, it the vehicle is not at home ?
If so, try some other insurers, except Adrian Flux.
Chassis Swap Advice
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
You have not stolen anything (I hope) so I don't see any problem at all. Probably not in the spirit of the regulations, but as most older LRs about have been fiddled with in one way or another, and have had used body parts from all over the place, will not be any different from most other vehicles out there, including the vehicles of most members of this forum.
So just do it.