smallfry
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Posts posted by smallfry
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I disagree about the block problems with the bigger engines being overblown. I know of an awful lot of "disappointed" owners, even more so with the 4.6. Most of the problems are to do with porous blocks, shifted liners, or some sort of overheating problem. One thing causing another problem as it were.
Also, having to weigh out for top hat liners fitted is still EXPENSIVE. Fine and dandy for those lucky enough to have money falling out of their bottom, good luck to them. Same with Megasquirt etc. Great if you can afford it.
Sadly I cant.
I still maintain that a 3.5 is better for those on some sort of budget, AND more reliable. However, as has been rightly pointed out, the Defender spec engine should be avoided purely because of its low compression ratio, carb restrictors and points ignition (does anyone actually still HAVE points ignition ???)
Best bet would be 1986 onwards high comp engine on EFI for performance and "economy" but a carburettor engine will do fine.
The LT 85 IMO is not only stronger, but nicer to use as it has a nice positive change. If you do buy one, make sure it has the linkage for the transfer box with it, and also the LH mounting bracket, as these are really hard to find on their own. I quite fancy an auto though. I have got one of each........AND a TDI engine and box, but cant make up me mind which to use. Fuel prices being what they are and all
One thing I did forget though, is that the gearbox tunnel will need to be altered to the TD5 arrangement as it is physically bigger that an LT77/R380.
ALL the engines are getting on a bit now anyway, so you will be very lucky to be able to buy one and plonk it straight in, DESPITE what any seller might tell you ! I dont care what anyone says, I have seen enough of the insides of these engines, and rebuilt them (probably more that forty) and if it has done anything over 35k, you can bank on at least one of the camshaft lobes will be knackered. However its easily sorted, so dont let that put you off.
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I have had 19 land Rovers over the years, series and 90/110 and Defenders. Most of them I converted to V8 as I would always have a V8 over a Diesel any day..............
ANY Rover V8 will fit. All the bolt patterns for the mounts ahd gearbox are the same.
Apart from the obvious stuff like fuel and exhaust systems and wiring, depending on what you choose, you...........
CAN use your existing chassis mounts and gearbox if its any good, but you will need to use an expensive conversion kit to do this.
You will also need to cut the passenger footwell.
Therefore, I would recommend using a Range Rover or Discovery LT77/R380 gearbox and bellhousing, which is longer, and this will shunt the engine forward into the position it is mounted in RR/Disco/Defender V8 models. You will however, have to swap the gearbox remoteand selector shaft, as the gearlever is in a different position. Or you could use a V8 90/110 LT85 gearbox, which is stronger, but more rare and therefore more expensive.............usually, unless you are lucky.
You WILL need to weld new mounts onto the chassis, But thats it really. VERY VERY simple.
Everything else is just a cocktail of standard parts.
You could also use an Autobox, which again is all standard parts, but if it has a Borg Warner transfer box, you will also need it front propshaft, which is longer or shorter (cant remember which)
As for the engine itself.............
3.5 is the nicest running and far and away the most reliable
The bigger engines suffer from internal water leaks, and CAN end up costing a lot of money if you are unlucky, the 4.6 being the worst in this respect.
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Thanks for that guys...............
I need to save the shocks just for now, as i am not quite sure where i am going to go with this yet, and I HATE wasting money. Although I am good at it. Already got a garage full of stuff i dont need !
A harmonic damper eh ? Theres posh !
Defender stuff it is then !
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Just in the throes of swapping me late eighties 90 front axle to a mid nineties Discovery one.
Thats if I ever manage to get the bottom shock absorber nuts off
Anyways, on the old axle, the steering damper is fitted to the drag link. i.e in front of the axle.
On the Disco one, there is one fitted on track rod i.e behind the axle.
I do not have the Disco drag link, so what I want to know is, does the Disco have another damper on the drag link in addition to the one on the track rod, or is this just an alternative fitting position ?
If so, would it be better to use the Disco type, or will I be better off using the 90 setup ?
Also, the 90 has a support bracket bolted to the diff housing that the track rod slides side to side in. The Disco doesn't have this. Instead there is an anchor bracket that holds the other end of the steering damper in that position. Also a big rubber "wheel" type thing.
Again, which would be best to use ?
Anyone know what that rubber wheel/bumpstop type thing is for ?
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Thats OK then...................
I have come across peeps who think a Defender is just like a cuddly Micra or somesuch. Only bigger.
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Have you actually driven a Defender AND a Discovery ?
They are worlds apart........................if you are trying to compare them or expecting them to be similar.
If you haven't I would try them both before making any sort of decision
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If you buy a new chassis ask for a 300 model and bolt the 200 motor in.
Unfortunately the mounts are not in the same place.................................
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Do you know if the petrol Omega's used the same gearbox as the 2.5 diesels? IIRC they had a derivative of the BMW 6cyl diseasel in it, which was also fitted to RR's and some SA defenders... May be a source for conversion parts...
In a word NO. The petrol AND 2.5 diesel Omegas used a completely different gearbox. Might have been Getrag ? It was an aluminium box, and I am pretty sure they had an integral bellhousing. Either way, the petrol bolt pattern is way different to any land Rover.
I had a 2.5 Omega engine and box in a Triumph Herald.........................
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Thanks for that Ron. Might take you up on that. Where abouts are you ?
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I have a 1989 TD with shot front brakes................and my balls are past their best.
I also have a 1995 Discovery front axle from a V8
I also have a new Polybush kit for the earlier narrow arms.
I could swap the whole axle BUT the later axle uses the "wider" radius arms, and I dont have any........
And so, the questions are...............
Is there any real worthwhile benefit in having the wider arms ? Meaning I would have to obtain some, and the obviously different bushes. Would it be better.
Can I swap the swivel hubs/axleshafts/differential into my existing axle case ?
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It will take at LEAST twice as long as you envisaged.
It will cost at LEAST twice as much as you envisaged. Its the little bits that mount up.
Try to do something every day, and write a "to do" list, so you dont waste time faffing.
Do not buy parts on price alone...................you WILL regret it.
Depending on your own skills and abilities, try to do as much as you can yourself, and ASK if you cant work out how to do something.
DO NOT buy someone elses project, ESPECIALLY if its unfinished. You will discover that EVERYONE else is a bodger, and you will end up doing it all again. Personally, I have found that unfinished projects are generally only good for stripping down for parts.
You will be amazed how much space a stripped vehicle will take up.
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Have sent a PM re engine mounts
Thanks
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Have sent a PM re engine mounts.
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I have just got back into LR ownership after a break of fifteen years, so I am rather out of touch with what is the norm nowadays. Bought an old 2.5 Turbo with a stuffed engine so something needs to be done..................
When I disposed of all my stuff last time round (and there was a lot) I kept back a 20k mile 3.5 EFI V8 for a rainy day, but with the cost of fuel nowadays, it seems to be almost a non starter. I had 18 various Land Rovers over the years, but most of them ended up converted to V8, so I know just about all the possibilites in that direction.
One of my questions is............ Is a V8 powered vehicle now considered "undesirable", hard to sell maybe, of much lower value if I were to sell it ?
Moving on, I have been looking at 200 or 300 TDI swaps. I fancy the TD5 or later stuff, purely because of the electronics. (dont like what they have done with the interior now either, but thats only MY opinion)
The 200 was always my favourite, purely bacause it felt more "proper", and back then did not seem to suffer from various unreliability problems that the 300 seemed to suffer (water pumps, overheating, cylinder head, brake pump, timing belt) most of which have probably been sorted by now I guess. So I want to stick with what I am familiar with and go with a 200.
Just as an aside, I cant believe how relatively cheap these engines are now, just as an illustration, the last time I bought a 200 TDI complete engine, it cost nearly £2000 ! They had not been out that long, and the 300 was only a rumour ! Not got that sort of money now anyway. Sadly.
Anyway, looking how conversions have been done, I am a bit puzzled, and I hope some of you can throw some light on what is considerered "acceptable" these days................
I am well aware that the easiest route is to buy a Defender spec engine with the high mount turbo, but I will discount that option as they are not easy to find and seem to be somewhat expensive, so i would be looking at a Discovery unit instead.
Now, to mount this in the seemingly "usual" position (4cyl petrol 2.5 NA and TD and 200) involves a rather sh!te downpipe conversion which also prevents access to the starter motor, and puts the exhaust rather too close to the clutch slave cylinder, which I personally dont think is really very satisfactory.
A chunk COULD be cut out the the footwell, to relieve the exhaust contortion somewhat, and maybe utilise the standard Discovery cast turbo pipe, although I think there will still be a problem with the clutch slave cylinder, but there seems to be some aversion to cutting the bulkhead ? Its not really much of a problem so why is this ?
But to me, the OBVIOUS was to go, is to weld new engine mounts on the chassis, use the Discovery gearbox and bellhousing (I know the gear levers and selectors have to be swapped) and shift the engine forward in to the position it would be in the Discovery or RR Classic (and the 300 Defender) This would then enable you to mix and match all standard parts, and avoid the problems of overheated bulkheads starters and slave cylinders....................
So what I want to know is, is there a compelling reason why this NOT normally done ? Something glaringly obvious that I have missed maybe ? After all, this is exactly what Land Rover did with the 300TDI Defenders.
On the other hand, there always the V8........................................
how much paint for a 110 chassis ?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Obviously you haven't seen the price of turps nowadays
Best paint I ever found for chassis was Deproma. Absolutely brilliant. You could even paint it on greasy and wet metal. lasted for ages too. Cant seem to get it now.