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smallfry

Long Term Forum Financial Supporter
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Posts posted by smallfry

  1. I have never tried to buy MLS gaskets for it, so I have no idea.

    The cost of it all is one of the things why I will not have another one. Also it seems nigh on impossible to get good quality parts for them now is another.

    For less money you can convert it to something else that is long term reliable, more economical, and more powerful if thats what you want

     

  2. Yes those, and the same on the cylinder to the left to a lesser extent.

    Another thought I had, was that although the composite gaskets are supposed to seal the waterways better, the fact that they must "give" a little when the head is tightened down might allow the head itself to be distorted slightly, and also allow the block face around the bolt holes to be pulled up.

    This never used to be a problem on the 3.5 engines that had steel shim gaskets. Although the accepted wisdom with the early 14 bolt heads was that the extra row of bolts "tipped" the head, and allowed combustion products into the crankcase, which allegedly degraded the oil and hastened camshaft wear . I am not convinced of this personally, as cam wear problems is STILL the Achilles heel of these engines, despite the deletion of the third row of bolts and the use of composite gaskets.

    It is my opinion that the steel shim gaskets are better, as they would not allow this distortion to a similar degree.

    If I were ever to build a large bore Rover V8 for myself (unlikely as I hate them now) I would use steel gaskets as fitted to the early 3.9s. I still have two pairs that I am holding on to "just in case" 

  3. Looking at the first picture, at the edge of the liners adjacent to the head bolt holes, you can see marking that is the classic sign of liner leaks.

    When the engine is stopped, the cooling system is still pressurised, forcing a small amount of water vapour into the cylinder, which will then condense as the engine cools, and sits there until the engine is started again, which is why rust can form.

    Its fairly obvious that it is the strain of the head bolts that distort the block that causes this, Likely because the bigger bores have weakened the block casting in this area. Would doing up the head bolts less tight have helped ? Who knows. Lots of people have used studs and even more torque to tighten the heads down, but I cant help wondering if this only makes it worse.

    Best solution would be to fit a 3.5 :ph34r:  

  4. 4 hours ago, ThreePointFive said:

    It won't help, but the cheapness, availability and simplicity of GPS/GSM/5G/WIFI jamming devices has even base level thieves operating on the level of serious organised criminals.

    In my view, trackers are a less valuable security layer than they once were and the major deterrent is to increase the risk of being detected mid-crime.

     

    I suspect this is probably true. A friend uses one in his van (it is tracked), so his employers cannot see that he has gone "off piste"

  5. On 7/23/2023 at 8:37 AM, Bowie69 said:

    No transformer, they only with AC, with simple electronics the voltage is dropped down to 5V. No way to avoid this. 

    A resistor would have to dissapate a very large amount of heat and wouldn't regulate the voltage properly anyway, so you'd end up not charging in the phone, have a hot resistor and even more of a fire risk. 

    Permanent connection doesn't affect modern batteries as much as it used to, especially compared to old NiMH laptop batteries, so a valid concern, but not to the same scale as it used to. 

     

    I know nowt about electronics, I can't understand it, so just pointing out stuff I have heard or read !

    Mostly via the internet, so it MUST be true. 

  6. I did all this stuff (uprated but not VNT turbo) to a 200Tdi 90 I had back in the early nineties. I always found it underwhelming. Are you sure you are not expecting too much from it ? The injection pump will need tuning too, not just random fiddling. As Hurbie rightly says, most people ignore the pump, as it gets expensive !

    How do you KNOW that the CSW with the trailer had a  Tdi in it ? Might have had a BMW M57 conversion, or even a big petrol engine, in which case you have no hope of keeping up with it !

  7. Don't these things have some sort of transformer inside, similar to the wall outlet ones used in the home ?

    Apart from the parasitic drain, there is a (small) fire risk if they do. Also, will permanent connection reduce the phone battery capacity, like it does with laptops, limiting the time the tracker will work if disconnected ?

    Would it be better to have a plain socket/adaptor, with a resistor in line to reduce to a suitable voltage, which will have no drain, other than the phone itself ? 

     

  8. Layup cover requires the vehicles to be kept in a locked garage. On a drive or private land is NOT acceptable (just my own experience)

    I dont see that being an expat would be a problem, but try RH Specialist Insurance, I have always found them very helpful, reasonable price, and most importantly very helpful if the time comes to make a claim.

    • Like 1
  9. 1 hour ago, FridgeFreezer said:

    Another vote for Kayfast & Spalding ebay, also Namrick or Falcon Workshop Supplies for party packs, and Westfield for weirder stuff.

    I actually bought an assortment tray thing of M6 & M8 from Axminster that was pretty good value and top that up as I use it.

    I don't trust B&Q unless it's an emergency, their stuff is usually pretty poor and exorbitantly priced - screwfix sell all the common stuff in sensible grades at sensible prices, just usually a larger pack.

    I don't use stainless as they're brittle, they gall (lock up) and can't easily be drilled, and you risk creating a great environment for even worse galvanic corrosion if you're not careful.

     

    Screwfix is owned by Kingfisher Group, who also own B&Q, so a lot of their hardware stuff is the same, but Screwfix being a bit cheaper.

    Yes never use stainless on anything critical, and as said, it causes even worse galvanic corrosion. The only stainless stuff I ever use on a vehicle is self tapping screws.

    Falcon workshop supplies also do good run of the mill stuff. Generally cheaper than other sources too. 

  10. 1 hour ago, Herb109 Series3 said:

    OMG! It looks like Ben will be able to do it. If it all works out I will owe you a pint and Pub dinner once I'm back in the UK (or if you visit Germany). I'll keep you updated.

    Not necessary. Just hope you are sorted. Could have done it myself as we have a 7.5 tonne transporter here, but just like having a Land Rover, it is never working when you really need it. Broken Chassis ! Keep us posted though.

    On the bright side, a holiday with a load of hassle is usually the most memorable, looking back.

    • Thanks 1
  11. 19 minutes ago, Herb109 Series3 said:

    Hi, it's a front bearing. We had a great time until now. Enjoyed the area around Avebury. At this point anything will help. I will try Ben at the number you posted. Thank you so much!

    Front a bit more difficult, as apparently there are a couple of choices. Ben has moved things for me and I can thoroughly recommend him. I will always use him in the future when I need something moved. Good luck!

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