smallfry
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Posts posted by smallfry
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7 hours ago, TSD said:
Vaseline on the wire tails before you crimp!
Is that so the terminals slip off easier ?
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19 hours ago, TSD said:
Welding cable should be rated for (I think) at least 105deg continuous, and higher temp versions are available for a price.
Like Fridge, I'd sleeve it. I bought a metre of this heat sleeve years ago, but since you don't usually need much I've just used the last piece, which I think is the 4th vehicle I've put it on.
I have just bought some "High Temp" welding cable, and had a flash of perspiration for the sleeving ! The stuff they do for Webasto/ Eberspacher exhausts . Supposed to be good for 500 degrees C. Cable runs about 2 1/2 inches from the exhaust downpipe, and its non turbo, so hopefully will be enough.
Now for the next challenge. Soldering the terminals on without melting the PVC jacket !
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25 minutes ago, Junglie said:
Yeah, that's not going to happen. My wife currently refers to me as Albert Steptoe - I'm trying to cut down on the amount of stuff I'm hoarding...
Are you sure its not more to do with looks ? And dress sense ?
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10 hours ago, Junglie said:
OK guys, I think I have a solution.
There's a chap on Ebay selling a refurbed R380 and LT230 with bellhousing and all linkages, levers etc, for a Defender V8. Refurb was done by R Whitehouse and it's got zero miles on it. It's not desperately cheap, but as I have a fully refurbed LT230 here plus a fully refurbed LT77 for a Disco I should be able to get a decent amount back and end up in a better place than I would have been.
Now. Anyone know a decent collection/delivery service from Sheffield to Croydon?
Don't believe it. My Brother in Law went to Huddersfield yesterday ! He would have collected it no problem. Dropped my non fitting engine adaptor kit back to Ashcrofts on the way up the M1 !
Thats got to be the way to go. If you can afford it. Eeek ! Should get a fair bit back on your existing one though, Unless you want to keep it "just in case"
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22 hours ago, Ed Poore said:
Me being a skeptical kind of guy, I know they're meant to know their stuff but do they give a reason why?
I've no direct experience with Ashcrofts as apart from a transfer box everything came via Nige. My one experience with Shabs hasn't been the best (flywheel for a 1UZ didn't fit and he implied that my (bog standard) 1UZ had a different crank diameter... Wonder who's more likely to make a mistake, Toyota's CNC over tens, if not hundreds, of thousands parts, or someone who turns out a handful of conversion kits?
This is true. Even the experts dont know, or have tried everything.
I am having a similar issue with a body panel for my van, the manufacturer is saying that mine is different to all the others, or it has had accident damage (which it hasn't)
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Is it for water or warm air ? What about in one of the rear wheel arches next to the bulkhead, and make a box to cover it.
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14 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:
If it's close to the exhaust I'd sleeve it with something - even just a length of old heater hose - or clamp a little strip of something over the exhaust as a heat shield to knock the worst of it down.
The original has a woven, probably asbestos sleeve around it next to the downpipe I am going to get something similar or use the left over header binding tape I have, but I am more concerned about the cable insulation material for now.
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I need to replace some battery to starter cable on this useless Unimog. Why anyone loves them is beyond me. Everything is a PIA.
Anyway, the cable runs stupidly close to the exhaust downpipe, and there is no real way to re route it, bearing in mind the cab tips.
The cable is hefty at 95mm2 and the fifty year old original is very stiff. It seems most cable you can buy now at "sensible" money, is multi strand flexible stuff.
You can get either PVC or rubber coated, but what will be best ? Most cable suppliers list rubber covered cables for pond, tools, and outdoor use.
What do you guys think ?
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9 hours ago, Junglie said:
It may be worth a try...
As the gearchange mechanism is more or less the same, I can only think it will be the selector shaft diameter thats possibly different.
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I thought that adaptor would work with an LT77, not sure though.
I also thought you had an R380 diesel box !
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I don't see the problem. This is not directed at anyone at all, just how I see it.
The Grenadier is a car, just like the new Defender is a car. If you choose to dump tools and some bricks in the back and use it as a commercial, or as a company car, that is your choice. Unfortunately you have to pay the outrageous tax, again your choice.
For a commercial, it should have two (or three) seats in the front, with a full length rear load floor, no windows in the sides, and no facility for fitting any seats in the rear, a bulkhead and negligible trim in the back, with an option of rear door, or tailgate and "catflap". Either that or be a pickup. Then pay a bit less outrageous tax, and the appropriate BIK for either. You could then pimp it up as you wish.
Ineos probably do not want to sell a full commercial, because there would be less money in it, as most sales would be commercial, and there must be a price differential.
It grates on me that I have to pay commercial RFL for my three vans. I do not run any sort of business, or use them for work purposes. But its my choice, as the vans are more use to me than a car.
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I have a couple wood chisels which are easy to hold and control, but I have taken off the sharp corners so they don't dig in. Seem to work well, but no good for going round corners.
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Thanks for the concise symptom timeline. Helps a lot.
It is quite a slow leak then. But I would have thought you would still see some evidence. What is the climate like where you are, as I wonder if such a small amount of fluid would evaporate if it is hot there ? Or washed away with heavy warm rain ?
It looks like it is a result of something you or a mechanic has done, and as you had a leak at one of the pipe unions, I would look closely there. Possibly the metal feed pipe has fractured at the flare which you will not see unless it is disconnected ? The fluid leak could be in the form of a fine spray, directed away from the vehicle or onto the exhaust, which would cause it to simply vanish ?.
A frustrating one for sure !
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15 minutes ago, ThreePointFive said:
Mods, we need an 'angry' react button.
Mods, please ignore this poor deluded fellow.
Actually, that is a VERY good idea !
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45 minutes ago, Anderzander said:
I should know - but what happened to your 1UZ ?
I still have it. I have had that longer than the M57. Its a long story and you will wish you hadn't asked !
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If there are no visible leaks, and you keep refilling, I cant understand where it might be going.
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1 minute ago, FridgeFreezer said:
I'll give you £50 for it fella
eBay is for clowns - a reasonable place to buy but an awful place to sell. Autotrader has always worked well for me but I'm not sure about proper classics.
I will go to £60. Delivered mind.
I agree regarding ebay. Lots of eejits and chancers, and some with dishonest motives. Good exposure though and you might be lucky.
I tend to run my vehicles to destruction as I hate the process of selling, but the few I have advertised via Autotrader have all sold, but I don't think it is the answer for the CSK.
I dont know anyone who has had first hand experience with Matthewsons. But it is tempting. As with all auctions, it all depends on who is there on the day. I have my old Rover car that I know I am never going to have time for, so it has to go, but like you, I don't know the answer.
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Just now, FridgeFreezer said:
I'm sure she'd tell you size doesn't matter
Tells me that all the time. But they are just being nice !
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7 hours ago, Bowie69 said:
Gonna have to change the engine then.....
That's what the kit is for !! Did you see what I did then ?
Might be right though. Dont want to cause in international incident, and I don't imagine the seller will want to refund.
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19 minutes ago, Anderzander said:
ahhh - now I see it !
What engine does that one fit then?
Its for a BMW M57, but only the early ones. Later ones have a slightly bigger bellhousing.
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3 hours ago, Happyoldgit said:
Crikey.... What is she after?😉
She wants her stable finished I expect. I have too many "little asides" on at the moment.
Seriously though, she doesn't have an agenda in that respect. No price tag on it, and we are both the same in that respect.
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This morning, on her way out, SWMBO said that there is something for me on the freezer downstairs. "Whats that" I asked. "An early birthday present" she replied, and closed the door behind her.
I finished my tea, then went downstairs, expecting to find a pack of Raspberry doughnuts or something, but no ! Sitting on the freezer was a largish flat box with banding on it.
Anyways, I unwrapped it to find this ..........
Which is great, if somewhat expensive.
Only problem is, I don't have the heart to tell her it doesn't fit my engine
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Firstly, I do not think you will get any better than TRW or AP cylinders.
To be clear, the fluid disappears from the master cyl, and you top it up. Empties again, and you top it up again, and repeat, and repeat ?
No signs of leakage underneath or down the clutch pedal ?
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1 hour ago, FridgeFreezer said:
That's just modern TV rules though - everything must have "jeopardy" (stupid deadline) and everything must have "human interest" (AKA sob story & tears on camera)... hence my comment that, within these rules, Car SOS is one of the more bearable programmes and actually does a good job of the car not just a tart up for the cameras.
They did on this episode. Was a 1980s Fiat. I think the only original bit left was the roof. I am not even sure about that !
Diesel heater in a 110 TD5 Station Wagon
in International Forum
Posted
What about a box with a top hat flange round the top, like the classic Mini battery box, if you are familiar, dropped into the top of the rear wheelarch near the bulkhead ? The 109 spare wheel well fits like this. Can have a lid on it and no unsightly and leaky ill fitting doors in the side panels.