smallfry
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Posts posted by smallfry
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An 84 could have had either points or the electronic DM8 distributor. Please dont refit points as you will be making a rod for your own back.
If it WAS a points type, all you will need is the correct set of points (two types) and condenser, but you really would be better off with an electronic conversion for about £30.
If it is a DM8, it would have had the distibutor internals removed, but you will not be able to buy these cheaply, so will probably have to buy a used distributor complete.................but it might not work !
Also, there would have been an ignition amplifier mounted under the coil, and the wiring for it may have been cut off when the Lumenition was fitted.
Also, depending of what was originally fitted, there might have been a ballast resistor, or not, and also you will need the correct coil.
This sounds complicated, but it isnt really................
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Anyone out there got a genuine RR 3.9 EFI classic that could have a look underneath please ?
I want to use the gearbox crossmember from one of these on a Defender. On the one I have, the flanges that mount it to the chassis have a cut out on one edge of the flange (both sides) whereas the Defender one it straight on both edges, so this means it should only be fitted one way. I think.
Coiuld someone have a look and tell me if the cut outs face forward, or to the rear ?
Also, a photo of the central silencer mounting brackets on the chassis/gearbox would be dead handy............................
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Not sure thats entirely correct..............the 300 tdi and td5 tunnel is much wider than the 200tdi one (which is the same as the earlier 2.5 petrol/na/td) to accomodate this, and of course the front of the seatbox is different too, but I am sure you already know that.
Could you not either alter the front of your existing seatbox to take the later tunnel, or maybe unrivet your modified battery box and rivet it to a 300/td5 seatbox ?
Would rather do that than take a hammer to it personally
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Yep. it is
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3.9 V8. Took the exhaust manifolds off. Port on number 6 is VERY clean, but all the others are sooty.
Does it mean................................the usual big bore unhappiness ?
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They were very common in the USA at one time. Dont know about now though. I have seen them fitted to Ford and Chevrolet engines..................
Try Real Steel at Uxbridge, but remember the early Rover V8 had a bigger oil filter thread which was changed to the current size in 1976.............
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I remember having this problem many years ago, but I cannot remember whether it was a series or a Defender.
The cup diameter was correct, but the distance across the cups was too small. The solution was to put a 2 pence piece under each circlip, and it made it almost exactly right. It was run like this for a couple of years, and for 8 pence per joint, was a good value fix............
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I will check the coolant temperature sensor and thermostat on the weekend and I'm using road tyres at the moment will the sensor make that much difference on the fuel consumption as that's a lot of fuel (40L per 100kms?)
Yes it will ! My Astra is diesel, but the temp sensor was faulty and it went from a regular 60 - 62 mpg down to 40......................
I believe most, if not all vehicles nowadays can have this problem, and in the winter I now cover half the radiator to get it to warm up quicker too, in order to retain the fuel milage, but This is more of a problem with diesels, which take longer to heat up in the first place.
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So, if someone leaves a car outside your house and its there ad infinitum, you have no way of knowing whether to make that call.......
And if you live somewhere like me where the Police never go, on foot OR by car, how is it going to be checked ?
Of course the government will be saving money on postage and admin, so I am sure they will be passing the savings on to you/me the consumer....................
Like has been said, should be put on fuel. Much fairer all round. If you want to drive a gas guzzler (like we do) then its your choice. The only flaw with this is, would the extra tax actually be set fairly, or would it cost ALL of us more ?
I wonder
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I have got some doors here with them fitted if you want to look at them. Where are you based ?
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This is like the Emperors new clothes to me.................Sorry.
Boost are ugly as f**k. Heavy and clunky looking and just not suited to Defenders at all.
More suited to a Range Rover/Land Cruiser car like look, which ISNT what a Defender (or any other proper Land Rover) is about. Trying to make it look like a car just doesn't look right, in fact, I cant think of any alloys that DO really suit it.
Steels look FAR better in any flavour IMO,
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Back in the early nineties I bought one of these blankets, along with some other stuff from Warwick Banks Handling, who did a roaring trade in Anti roll bars before Land Rover decided to fit them as standard...............
It was for my nearly new 200TDI Defender
I was not impressed, and I would say dont waste your money. The difference it makes is very small.
I think the only real way that you can suppress noise is total surface coverage (as near as practical)
Something like Dynamat maybe ?
Or do away with the problem altogther, and fit a nice petrol engine !
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Thanks for all the replies gents.....................gives me something to think about, and the onset of failing memory isnt helping
I have not had a petrol engined vehicle for a few years now, even longer for one with a carburettor......................
It has the 35 DM8 setup, the one with the amplifier under the coil on the inner wing. All the components are original except for the leads, cap and rotor, and appears to be working OK. Regular sparking from the king lead which jumps a 20mmish gap, and which does not short through the rotor arm. Not checked the actual ignition timing yet, but groping around in the dark this evening, it seems that the TDC pointer is missing. No matter though, as I have a couple somewhere..................
Didnt think of the brake vacuum hose or the servo, as we like to overlook the obvious. Have tried the WD 40 test with no result, but of course the underside of the manifold cannot be checked, but I think I will take it off anyway to examine the welded on flange more closely, and also have a visual check of the camshaft lobes.
I did do a compression test, but it was dark and started to rain, and when I went indoors with my woefully low results, ranging from 90 to 105 psi, I realised that i had not opened the throttle butterflies...................so will have to do that again, and will also do a leakdown test when I get the tester back.
I also found a rather curious arrangement for the engine breathers..............it appears that the hoses from the rocker covers vent into a tee piece, one for each side, with one branch feeding into the air filter box, and the other to a pipe which joins to the carburettor flange on the manifold, which must surely not help as it would cause a vacuum leak ??? However, before the advent of the problem it has now, it has been run like this for a long time.
It WAS a pulsair engine, but all that was removed before I bought it, except for the pipes on the heads which had been pinched off. Again why this was not done properly when the carb was installed, I have no idea. Anyway, I have removed all that and plugged the outlets now, as it did chuff a bit.
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TBH this sounds exactly the same as my std V8 on SUs.
I am guessing too lean possibly air leak as per the previous comment. Plug colour?
No thermostat would delay the engine warming up which won't help I would think?
Plugs are fairly white which would suggest a vacuum leak, but I am bu**ered if I can find one !
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Sounds carby to me? leaking air, or it's just gone wrong the way carbs do.
And a home made manifold could be excellent, but somehow they usually aren't, as anyone who could do it right, would probably avoid that mod
Does disconnecting the aux vaccy lines help?
I wonder if it's just dirt in the carb?
I thought it might be dirt. Or maybe water in the tank. I know it has done some deepish water/mud by the amount in the radiator and the engine bay generally. Although the carb doesnt actually LOOK very old, I thought I would get a gasket kit for it anyway, and while speaking to the supplier, he didnt think it would be that. I can screw the idle mixture screws right in and out and it doesnt make much, if any, difference. I have tried disconnecting the vacuum advance and retard (cant work out how that works) lines and it just stops dead.
The only other thing is the fuel supply..............I get a good flow with the pipe disconnected, but there does not seem to be any actual pressure, and I cant find any value for this in any of the manuals I have (its an in tank pump) also, I know that both the V8 and 2.5 petrols had a restrictor in the return line, which would build some pressure, but there is nothing. So maybe there is not enough fuel delivered to the carb, not that this would induce the particular problem I have now. Unfortunately Weber carbs are something I am not familiar with, and suprisingly there doesnt seem to be very much info available online
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Blue Hylomar is a Land Rover specified sealant used on the plenum chamber and inlet manifold to seal the surfaces together on the EFI engines. I have nothing against it for such use.
I am well aware of that sir, so dont take offence, but what I mean is that you DONT need to use a whole tube or it just to put a rocker cover on, and then if you did, I would hope you would at least clean off most of the excess..........................
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You will soon forget about your other hobbies.......you won't have the time.
Personally, I would not by choice use one as a daily driver. I COULD, but I don't like the pressure of having to get it fixed to use for work tomorrow morning, If you understand what I mean.
It ISNT because they are are unreliable per se, but I think most here, if they are honest, would agree that there is ALWAYS something that needs doing, however, an awful lot of that is down to choice, and the inability to leave it alone. When you have one, you will understand the meaning of that statement
Budget for around a realistic 27/28 to the gallon, (consider any more as a bonus) assuming you are going diesel. Get a quote for insurance, and if you can afford it, then go for it.
You WILL get to love it. And hate it. And regret it. And love it.....................................
And its almost impossible to escape
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More hassle, just when its likely to be needed soon......................
As its cold and dark outside, in order to hopefully save some time, I wonder what you guys think.
County V8 3.5 litre 8.13 comp ratio. It has been fitted "professionally" with some sort of performance camshaft, and had the top of the inlet manifold cut off, and had a flange fitted which takes a Weber 38 DGMS carburettor. Also a straight through exhaust with no silencers.
It has never been really satisfactory, all noise and no action, and I think it was put together by someone who didn't really know what they were doing. The blue hylomar gives it away. You always know when you see that, it was a p*** poor job. It has/had a semi misfire under load.........holding back type thing which is hard to pinpoint. I tried pulling all the HT leads off in turn, and none of them make any appreciable difference...........maybe ALL the cylinders are not working !
Anyhow, when the weather gets better in the spring, I was going to go right through it and find out what has been done and try to set it up something like properly.
Unfortunately, it has now decided to be difficult. It suddenly does not idle well, and stalls until it it really warm. The idle rises and falls which it didnt before, by that I mean it seems to rev up a bit, and then drops off until it nearly stalls, then repeats. I was thinking vacuum leak, but cannot find any. What I have also noticed though, it that it puff puff puffs smoke on the overrun, but I cant make out if its all oil or not ( I have had a few oil burners in my time) any wonder if this is connected ? It has always started OK, and still does. It does not overheat, and since I washed a bucketful of mud out of the radiator, the gauge hardly registers, so I suspect no thermostat, but i dont think it is revelent to this problem.
I am going to run my leakdown tester on it, but I am waiting for it to come back. I lent it to a mate a couple of years ago and it hasnt come back yet, and he is trying to find it.................
Any ideas ?
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Could it be because you have a different measurement value over there ?
Rather like gallons and quarts etc are a different amount in the U.S. to here ?
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And dont forget..................No win, no fee
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I think you are all absolutely mental............................
I had a four drawer filing cabinet FULL of reciepts and paperwork for all the cars I ever had plus the 18 Landrovers up to 1998.
Got rid of it all a couple of years ago when i thought I would never get another one, and I remember it being SO liberating.
Got number 19 earlier this year which has now gone, and on number 20 now. So I have started again.
Only keep notes though. Lists are good and give a good sense of achievement when I can cross stuff off. Would know how to do a spreadsheet anyway, but I think its a bit souless ? Impersonal ? Somehow.
But then I prefer real books to Kindle or the internet...............................
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Ouch. I did that when I was a kid. We were playing at being paratroops jumping off next doors coal bunker but I fell off and hit the back of me head hard. Was out cold for five minutes.
Never been the same since..................apparently.
Hope theres no lasting damage.
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Really ? My apologies then. I read that somewhere when I was looking into buying one !
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Gearbox on its own weighs about 35 KG
Was there any noise that you noticed prior to this ?
I had a problem like this a couple of years ago with a car. Exactly the same symptom, a real grinding noise, not a whine, and not a rumble.
Turned out to be the fingers (diapragm spring) on the clutch pressure plate becoming worn through on their pivot ring, after a couple of weeks there was a bang and almighty rattle as some of them had broken off and were rattling aroung inside the bellhousing.
Of course no clutch............................The original clutch HAD done a lot of miles though.
Might not be that but might be worth checking before you buy a gearbox ?
R380 oil cooler adapter & early/200tdi seatbox issues
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
An hours job ? Yeh right.
I am pretty sure that the transfer box is in the SAME position. The gearbox might seem further forward by virtue of the longer 5th gear housing used on the R380, but thats the only difference I think.
The bulkhead is more or less the same but there is an adaptor plate (I think they call it a diaphragm ?) which you can swap over with the 300 type. Its just a matter of unscrewing it (another 5 minute job). Also the floor plates are a different shape, but if I remember correctly, you can cut your existing ones to suit.