smallfry
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Posts posted by smallfry
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you get fined if you have no insurance, and tax,
you dont get fined if you SORN it, ok a pain in the neck but not the end of the world,
but what happens to those who have had vehicles off the road so long they have not kept re SORNing it, i.e. barn find material?
i have heard stories of poeple buying such vehicles for restoration and when the time comes to put it on the road they are faced with a fine for not doing anything with it.
is this true, like i said its only stories and i guess whenever i have paperwork through and the tax has ran out they are notified of a new owner and therefore might send a reminder?
No it isnt true.
You will be fine with the Magnum. It is the Firenza shape ? I had one many years ago in matt black. Wish I still had it................along with many others
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I understood that there is no real difference in the strength of the weld as such, but the cooling effect of CO2, which argon does not do, hinders the weld penetration. hence the higher weld bead.
Argon is also inert and non reactive, whereas CO2 is not inert and reacts to temperature by expansion, which is what causes the spatter.
Only real difference in practice is that Argon mixes give a neater weld. In ideal conditions that is, and that is only if you are any good at it, but if you are welding rusty metal outside on a windy day no one would ever know.
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I could have bought a fairly large house with the money I have spent on cars over the years. I used to keep all my reciepts, had a four drawer filing cabinet full of them, but adding them up one day frightened the life out of me.....................And I had only got through half of the first drawer.
But as my old Grandma used to say "There are no pockets in shrouds", and none of it will matter after they have nailed down the lid
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I looked at their stuff this year at Peterborough...............or was it Billing ? Cant remember now.
Either way, What I saw was very, erm........... "disappointing". And remember this was stuff taken to a show as a showcase for their product. I hate to think what might turn up on ones doorstep.
If you dont have the equipment or skills ( you dont need much) to repair yourself, I would suggest finding a good one, new, take off, or whatever, and having it galvanized yourself. You will be quids in and get a better product.
And before anyone asks............Yes, I can do a LOT better, and have done several times.
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Why would it matter if I already paid their asking price for the entire engine? and custom is not an option; there is nobody here I would trust to do it or who is even remotely capable that I know of.
I do not see the problem either, especially as it helps someone out overseas where availability is difficult.
I guess they do not want the bother of packing it up and sending it. Or maybe they have had hassle from overseas buyers who CLAIM they have not recieved the item and have had Ebay take the money from their account, so not only have they lost the item itself, but also the payment for it plus fees......................who knows ?
AJH. I had the same problem in reverse a couple of years ago. I wanted an alternator bracket and adjuster for an old 400 ci Ford engine. A guy in Montana had a complete engine for sale with a Buy it Now price on it, and I offered him the full asking price if he would take the brackets off and send them to me here with me covering all the costs.
He refused, and like you, I don't understand the mentality..
Sorry I cant help. Not in the time allowed...................
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I have an early 90 V8 which has been fitted with some sort of perfomance camshaft and a modified inlet manifold, to which is fitted a Weber 38 DGAS carb at some time in the past...............
Anyhow, it seems to have developed a misfire under load, so I am working through this ATM. Weather and darkness permitting.
It is fitted with Champion RN9YC spark plugs, so they are coming out and going straight in the bin.
However, in the genuine owners handbook that came with it from new, AND the genuine Land Rover workshop manual I have, they specify NON resistor plugs...............
BUT, in the genuine Range Rover manual (with the identical ignition system) they specify Resistor type plugs...........................
It has the 35DM8 Ignition amplifier mounted remote from the engine under the coil.
I know the Range Rover would have electronic stuff that the ignition interference may have affected, but which sort of plugs would I be better off using ? Resistor or NON Resistor
What do you guys think ?
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Sounds like it. Unless its a 4.6 ? The LT77 long and short gearstick (V8 spec), and R380 (v8 spec) will bolt straight in using your existing transfer box, and I am 99% sure the LT85 will too, although this would be a "long gearstick" only
If you want to change the BW transfer box for a LT230, you will need a different front propshaft.
Obviously you will need the appropriate flywheel and clutch for the 'box plus all the hydraulics and pedal etc
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Thanks for prompt and detailed reply
But there is absolutely nothing to add............................
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And also, depending of the age of the glass.............not necessarily the age of the vehicle it is fitted to............the glass could be either 4mm or 5mm thick. which will obviously need the appropriate weatherstrip.
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That liner looks slipped as well, doesn't it?
Looks like it. Looks like low compression pistons too...........for a 3.5. Sure this isnt a 3.9 ?
Whats the engine number and comp ratio on the block ?
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I am in the process of cobbling together en exhaust system ATM, and am trying to find out if there is likely to be any sort of problems in running a petrol engine though a diesel exhaust system, and vice versa.
Likely to be detrimental in some way possibly ? Backfire, Backpressure, not last long ?
I can find stuff on various forums on the net, but I get the impression that there is no conclusive answers or people are just guessing.
Anyone got any thoughts on this ?
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Im my experience, most Land Rover diffs have WAY too much backlash. Shouldn't ought to able to turn the pinion any more than 5mm on a diff this size, amd even that is starting to get a bit on the slack side, so I was told by an old guy I used to work with who had been rebuilding them (diffs in everything) since the dawn of time.
Not THAT difficult to do, just need the tools
And collapsible spacers are a waste of time, and are the cause of a LOT of problems of this type.
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Yep, I will never deal with paddocks again either.................or Craddocks come to that.
Always best by far to go to the seller and examine what you are buying first, they may not like it, but it sure as hell saves a LOT of hassle. The guy who is packing your order only wants to get the stuff out the door, and might put the wrong things in your order either intentionally or unintentionally, just to make the order up...........its less hassle for him. Or her. "That'll do"
If you want genuine, the only way you are going to get it, is to buy it in a sealed Land Rover package. Going back 30 years I worked for a Vauxhall main dealer, and even then the parts manager would buy in non genuine stuff from wholesalers to sell on as genuine, and I know for a FACT that this is still rife today in the trade. Its all about maximising profits, and even more so nowadays for the sellers of EVERTHING in the losing battle against the internet seller. It will not be too long now before you will not be able to buy anything "over the counter"
And another thing, before that I worked in factory. Hobourn Eaton. Who made oil and power steering pumps amongst other things. Most of what we made went direct to car manufacturers. Either straight to the production line, in which case the items were individually bagged and placed in a big crate/pallet, or to the parts operation, in which case they were boxed in the appropriate manufacturers box with a logo.
Also supplied the aftermarket.................BUT, they were supplied with pumps that were out of tolerance in some way, or "seconds" if you like. This was not a fiddle, this is what they wanted, as obviously these items were a lot cheaper to buy, and is why they could afford to sell them for less. It was also understood that none of them would be accepted back either. We would also have to grind the ID marks off, as it would not look good for the manufacturer if there was a problem. It made good business sense. They went out in a plain white box.
Of course, these aftermarket sellers could justifiably claim that the pumps were OEM....................
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BP Ultimate and Shell V power have more detergent than the regular fuel and thats all. I can't really seen that it improves perfomance much, if at all, other than the cleansing effect.
I have tried a lot of additives over the years, and TBH (and I am a just as guilty as everyone else) I fear any improvement is mostly imagined, rather than actual
Dont forget that ANY percieved improvement in economy is probably more a result of you actually driving more economically because you are trying to see if the additive makes it more economical..................if you see what I mean ?
Also, any savings are offset by the cost of the additive..............................
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The pin through the pulley does NOT actually give you correct pump timing, all it does is to put the pulley in the right place in relation to the crank and camshaft.
It will give more or less the correct timing once it has actually been set, for the purpose of changing a belt, but if you suspect it has been "messed about with", I would be inclined to check it.
Belts stretch slightly (or the teeth wear) over their lifetime, and this will retard the timing slightly, and this "softens" the engine a little, and sometimes when you change a belt, you notice that that the engine has a louder clack, as the new belt has advanced it again.
To check the timing properly, you need to use all the pins in position , but screw a dial guage in the back of the pump to measuse the pump "lift". This is measuring the pump piston climbing a ramp, which is pressurising the injector pipes in turn.
More lift is advancing timing, and less lift is retarding it, and you alter it by loosening of the three pulley bolts and the bolts holding the pump to the timing case. You will actually be turning the pump. The pulley in fact stays where it is.
Its all hard to describe, but easy to see if I had a diagram.
It is easy enough to do, and I have the stuff to do it i you wanted to smoke your way here, gassing flowers and wildlife in your wake..................
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I think you will find that the originals up to when the name changed to Defender, were made from zinc coated steel (zintec).
After that from what I remember, they were not, and i don't recall seeing ANY aftermarket one that was.
Was about the same time that stopped galvanizing the body cappings irrespective of what model it was.
I seem to remember that all models had cleats for a soft top too.......................but maybe not ?
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If it helps, I say go for a V8
Probably doesn't help though.
I second that.................
300 Tdis are less reliable than a 200. they are are a bit fragile in the overheating department which rapidly ends up with a scrap head. They CAN be skimmed, but its not ideal, and really, its better NOT to have the problem in the first place.
If you get a small leak in the radiator, or the water pump seal fails (very common) as the coolant level is allowed to drop, it will do in the head gasket and/or the head itself. Other than that, its fine, but for my money I would have a 200 every time as it is more robust IMO
Regarding your noticable power loss...............could it be that you have just got used to it ? I would try a new fuel filter first, but get a good quality one.
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Oh I agree entirely Snagger, I was thinking along the lines on something temporary which would only be fitted while it was parked up on my property.
Would NEVER be a good idea to have anything in the car while you are out and about, just in case you fall on your own sword !
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Did they actually get in ? What stopped them do you think ?
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Oh and I asked my neighbours, IF they see a HIAB anywhere near my house and I'M NOT outside with it,
To call me and the Police immediately!
I fear all mine would do a little dance of joy......................................
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That isn't an option!
For me neither.
TBH I am thinking along the lines of an Ammonia discharge. I dont really care about harming them permanently. The law seems to be a complete ar5e, and I think its about time we got away from the stupid situation as it is now.
As for minimum force.........................
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Got Goodyear Wrangler MTR 33 12.50 15s on mine. They are a bit noisy, but not too bad in the wet, but you should always drive a bit more sensibly when its wet on a mud tyre in any case. Also, it always amuses me when people claim to get high milages out of them. I seldom go off road anyway, but I cant see me getting any more than 20 to 25k miles out of them, and that makes them VERY expensive.
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A tracker is good from the point of view of recovery, but how many times dose a tracker actually do the job? I mean how many cars with trackers fitted are actually recover and/or lead to a conviction of the thieves?
Police are not interested in vehicle theft, and its almost impossible to get a conviction unless they are caught red handed.
For example, If yours disappeared, and it ended up on my driveway, all I would have to say is that i know nothing about it. Unless they can find some find some hard evidence...........and its VERY seldom that they will run any forensics on a stolen vehicle UNLESS it has been used in another crime................they will just notify you of its whereabouts and leave YOU to collect it.
Trackers are easy to find and disable if you know what to look for, and if the people who take it are shipping them abroad or whatever, you can bet that they will know too. The usual method is for them to leave it somewhere for a few days and see if anything happens.
I have walked round the shows and talked to various sellers af these security devices, and they ALL claim that they "Have not lost a vehicle yet, to their knowledge" But who is going to ring them up and tell them ???
And the good old boys will just take a hammer to a dog, so dont do that to yor poor pooch.
Nothing is foolproof, but all you can do is to make it more time consuming. Depressing, but there it is.
Only other way is to sell up and find another hobby
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I do think it will be vapour locking. It was a really BIG problem on the old Rover P5B (I have got one of these as well) leaving cars stranded in traffic and at the lights. They then had a mechanical engine driven pump with a constant flow return fitted, and it all but cured the problem for the most part, but NOW with the advent of modern more volatile ? evaporation prone ? (dont know the correct term) it is again a problem for many.
It seems to occur more when the car is standing in traffic for a long period, or is stopped and then re started fairly soon. I guess both of these scenarios allow the fuel flow to either slow right down on stop altogether allowing the fuel to absorb more heat and vapourise in places. These engine do seem to produce a LOT of heat.
In your case, revving the nuts, sorry, I mean working the engine hard with not much movement to get cooler air into the engine bay, will possibly cause this, so IMO for what its worth, if you can keep the fuel moving it will help a lot, and dont worry too much about the pressure unless it is too high.
Also, some sort of fuel cooler maybe, but could be vunerable, or insulate the fuel lines ?
DVLC Not insured fine
in International Forum
Posted
Nice. When I worked in paint and body (and parts) at a Vauxhall dealer, the Viva HC was still in production............just.
The amount of body and trim stuff that was destroyed would break your heart, I even remember PA Cresta and F model Victor stuff which had been kept for years all going in the skip too...................
Sad that no one can keep this stuff