Normbourne

So I guess guys the answer is to get the output shaft bearing and its metal insert out. Then perhaps give the insert the Loctite treatment and put sucker backin, followed by the bearing..! The queston here is here do I get the bearing and insert out..? Any ideas guys..? Thanks, Norm.

Hey lads, This is probably a silly question, and is probably a very basic question. ( for some at least) On the oil filler pipe and on the rocker breather there is a tube connection, in the past I have always connected these to a vacuum connection, but it then occurred to me that thi cannot be correct, in that wouldn't the fuel mixture be weakened.....? Any clues Fellahs ...? By the way we are talking about an early series 3, 4 cyl. Petrol engine. Thanks, Norm

Thanks guys, I'll give it a go and let you know how I get on.....!

Hi guys, I need to change the oil seal between the gear box and transfer case, on my series 2a land rover. The object being to prevent oil flow between same. Any ideas guys....? Is it possible to do without taking the gearbox assy out..? Thank you, Norm.

O'Kay lads, this is the good oil....! It would appear that the flywheel is pre drilled by Rover, for different dowel patterns. Which allows for the option of either a 9" or 9 1/2" clutch plate. Three equidistant dowels allow the 9 1/2" clutch, and two diametrically opposite, allow the 9" plate. So all I have to do, is to remove two dowels and install a new one at 180 degrees and it is sorted..! The amazing thing to me is that new dowels are readily available ex-Melbourne at $6 each. So Fellahs that's it, many thanks to you all for your advice, ideas, and interest. Thanks agian, Norm.

Hi lads, In the process of my rebuild, I've struck trouble with a new clutch kit. I went to fit it only to discover that the cover plate supplied, only has provision for two locating dowels, diametrically opposite, whereas my flywheel has THREE locating dowels, equidistant around the perimeter. I've attempted to drill the two holes in the cover to line up, but of course the accuracy is questionable..! On checking my order, it would appear that the part that arrived was to suit, series 1 & series 2. Is there a difference between the series 2 & the series 2a..? I always thought they were the same. Any ideas guys..? Norm.

Thanks boys for the interests and posts, well done. The prob is sorted, I used the bolts supplied but the four short ones I found a local supplier and used 8.5 grade bolts. Genuine bolts were 14 quid Each....!! Norm.

Hey lads, If I may digress, my son's series 3 has tremendous amount of backlash, any ideas on how to adjust this...? Thanks, Norm.

I've still got the original block from which the bolts came from, so I' ll try them in their original holes. It could well be that they've been over tightened. But the new bolts I did manage to obtain, fit fine in the new block, so I don't think there is a problem there in terms of the block being tapped metric.

Thanks lads, actually the block is a remanufactured short engine so there is no problems concerning threads in the block. The original bolts have 65 V 75 stamped on the heads.....?? and they are indeed stretched in that they are extremely loose in the threads. Incidentally, the cylinder is also a remanufactured unit, supplied by turners in the UK. so obviously I'm pretty keen to get things right..!

Hey lads, I am trying to source a set of head bolts to suit a series 3, 4 cylinder petrol engine. I've managed to get the majority of them but the ones I am looking for are the, four short ones, located near the spark plugs. I thought that maybe high tensile bolts from a local supplier would suffice, But apparently, high tensile bolts have different grades. So the question is, where can I locate the OEM bolts, or failing that, what grade high tensile bolts do I need. Thanks, Norm.

On the opposite side to the output shaft, there is a removal plate, which I believe, gives one access to the worm back end bearing, whether it will be possible to fit a starting dog remains to be seen. I confirm that it is a worm wheel and pinion drive, at least, according to the physical layout. I don't think that there would be a problem in turning the engine over, in that it readily turns by hand from the output shaft. As regards its manufacture, it is proving to be somewhat of an enigma, there are no factory markings apart from a number which I think is just a casting number....? No, I don't have the mounting plate. As regards a hydraulic drive, the rub here is finding out what sort and size for the pump & motor. Any ideas lads....? Norm.

OK lads, here we go..! It is not a marine winch, secondly it came off a land rover, so there isn't a problem in terms of ratio, strength etc. And no, I don't go fishing..! (cheeky so & so) It's in beaut condition, very much like a woman, in that the rust is skin deep only, but beneath all that, it's in perfect condition...! The problem I have it's that I want to retain the ability to start the engine via a crank handle, accordingly, the mounting of the unit may present some some problems. I was hoping to drive it via a hydraulic system powered through the PTO Norm.

Hi guys, As regards my winch, I'm attempting to pos a pic, as you can see, it doesn't appear to be similar to the l/Rover winches, but I have been assured that it came off a L /Rover. Can anyone I. D.it, Thanks lads, Norm. https://plus.google.com/app/basic/photos/104444397514208409897/album/5926581700256634577?authkey=CM3JmvCI8O6acA

OK fellahs, been doing a lot of thinking and it seems to me that a Hyde. Winch motor need not be that big. In a lot of cases, the wich is powered off the power steering pump, but in my case there is no power steering, hence no pump so i will have to install one and drive it off the PTO. How do do I work out the right size do I get the flow rate of the motor, and then look for a pump with the same flow rate......?? Any ideas..? Thanks Norm.

Actually the winch I've got, has no provision for a starting handle, so obviously it's not a rover. I don't know what it is, there is no name on the sucker but there is a number on the casting so I might be able to google it to find out. I like the idea of power take off but I don't know what control there is of the power take off, any ideas. Thanks Norm.

Hi guys, Just managed to snag myself a mechanically driven capstan winch, great stuff but the main disadvantage is it prevents the use of a starting handle. These posts have given me great encouragement to consider hydraulic conversion, driven off the power take off. In fact, I think this is the only way to go.....! Thanks fellas, Norm.

Hey guys, Managed to snag myself an original series 2A capstan winch, but having probs in deciding how to mount it. Any ideas guys....?. Thanks, Norm.

Thanks mate, Is the series 3, 5 speed....?

As regards your steering box, with the series 2A, there is provision to adjust the play in the steering box. On the side, there is a bolt wih a locknut, just slacken same, turn the bolt via screwdriver slot, until the play is taken up, then re tighten the locknut. To get to it, there is a bolt on cover under the wing. I had the same prob when I bought mine, but in addition, the ball joints were worn.

Hi guys, I remember in the UK we used to bandage the springs to keep the salt and road grit out of them. In oz we have a tape called "Denso" which is used by plumbers to wrap underground Steel pipes, indeed I've used it to wrap underground electrical conduits. It is my intention to wrap the springs on my vehicle with it, whilst we don't have the salt problem here we certainly do have the grit and water, unless of course we venture on to the beach or the salt lakes of the hinterland. It is a dreadful stuff to work with, cleaning your hands after use, is difficult, so the go is wear gloves. It sticks like the proverbial .... .. a blanket. Because of its sticky nature, it may be necessary to over wrap witha canvas tape, but we will see. Norm.

My vehicle is a 2A, round about 1967. I'm. Coming to the end of a massive rebuild, and revamp, and was wondering if it is wise to change to a series 3 gearbox. Even if I stick with the 2A, it has to be overhauled. Is the series 3 a straight swap, and is it a 5 speed box....? Thanks guys, Norm.

Thanks everyone for your help, it seems as though this is the way it should be, I've done a bit of hunting around and it appears that for a composite gasket, that is the way it should be.....!! Every gasket manufacturer, Elring etc. are approx. the same. Anyway lads, I think it's a case of suck it and see. Thanks again, Norm.

Hi guys, I feel there is a simpler way of achieving power assisted steering, namely hydraulic, it operates on the premise of a hydraulic ram connected to steering linkage and a hydraulic pump on the steering wheel. I've seen photos of it, but for the life of me I can't remember where, but when I do remember, I'll post full details. Good luck, Norm.