landrover598
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Posts posted by landrover598
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Nice quick build, whats the spec on the important off road bits ?
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On the 8th day, god created the 100"... sat back and declared Perfect!
Well said that man
Plenty of space inside for gear, small enough for tescos carpark, stable on and off road and uber cool 
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235, 255, 265 and 285 are common sizes fitted to D1 alloys
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Id offer a simple way to get 100inch like D4x4 did.
no comment
Why not put it through IVA and Q plate? it's not that hard. Thats how i got my 100" on the road.
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Tar very much
What'cha making?
can you guess ?
I'm making sticks for my soft top out of 2" tube. -
Could someone with a soft top frame fitted to 90/110 please do me a huge favour, and run a tape measure over the frame hoop and confirm the following measurements for me
Vertically from the top of the tub capping to the very top of the hoop
Vertically from the top of the tub capping to the top of the hoop, just before it becomes the corner radius
Horizontal width from side to side just below the top corner radius
Horizontal width from side to side at capping height.
Very much appreciated
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Thanks for that, i presume i need to put 12v down one wire (from the brake light wire?) and the other to earth in order to retrofit this box/switch into a non auto defender ?
Anyone got a copy of the page in their manaual which has the wiring diagram on it ?
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Has anyone got to hand a wiring diagram for a 300tdi and could tell me what wires connect to the auto box and what they all do, i've got the two for the difflock switch sorted easy enough, but the plug with 4 wires has me confused ?
Any help for a wiring numptie would be very much appreciated
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Cheers Pete, that looks a nice solition, i didn't realise those coolers were so expensive though
I don't supose you remember what size hose fitting you used ?
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It's a 300 tdi.
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Now that i'm in the finial stage of connecting up my auto box into my 90, i realised that the donor auto box oil cooler and pipework isn't going to work
Any suggestions on what type and where to get a cooler which would work, where to mount it and how to plumb it in ? How have you done your conversions ?
Cheers
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Print one on your computer and laminate it. Thats what VOSA told me to do for my SVA test 5 yrs ago and it's still like new suprisingly.
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I've just brush / roller painted my project 90 with GESpaint 1k brushable synthetic paint with very good results. I know they only have a limited colour range, but do a few of the land rover standard colours (blues, greens, creams etc) All done with a 1" brush around the fiddly bits and 4" foam rollers on the flat pannels. I used 5 ltrs to do 2 coats on both sides of every pannel at a cost of about £60
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It's got 3 silver male spade connectors in a line on the tank
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earth --- black
fuel gauge --- green/black trace
low fuel warning light --- White/Slate trace
Thanks, but which terminal on the tank is earth, gauge and warning?
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On a 90 diesel tank, there are 3 electrical terminal, and 3 wires, any ideas which wire goes to which terminal?
I knew i should have made a note of it before i unplugged them
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A piece of 1" box section with a knob on the end ?
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and they say they have no record of processing my V5 yet
I had exactly the same last week , and have now sent off for a replacement form which they say would take upto 20 working days. They would give me a new one over the phone in 5 days if i payed the £25 fee but i declined due to it being their fk up.
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I payed just over £200 ( a few ears ago) to have my 100" chassis blasted, dipped and door to door collection / delivery.
I'll be going to the galvers tommorow to get my 90 chassis booked in so i'll get a price soon.
Well after much delay i finally got the bill for galving my 90 chassis, £195+vat including blasting at £90+vat, Weight was 163kg which sounds about right as my 100" chassis was 175kg.
hope this helps
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£300ish apparently including shot blasting...
I payed just over £200 ( a few ears ago) to have my 100" chassis blasted, dipped and door to door collection / delivery.
I'll be going to the galvers tommorow to get my 90 chassis booked in so i'll get a price soon.
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First check the DC feed wire hasn't come adrift near the wire feeder assembly, they love to do that.
After much checking over of wires, and then checking them again, i removed, cleaned and re-crimped this connection and it's working now
Cheers.
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My RTT lives in the garden when not on the landy, stacked upright against the fence, with the matress removed (that lives under my bed)
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Yes, i've checked all the earth cable connections, innside the set, at the clamp and at the extension join in the middle of the cable. All OK.
It's not a euro torch, but if i can't fix it, it'll be a good excuse to upgrade to one with a euro torch.
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Any grown ups know about how welders work who could help me ?
I was hapily welding away making a new rear crossmember when my MIG (SIP 145) stopped arcing, the wire is feeding but it won't strike an arc, only a very small sparkling when the wire is fed across the steel.
Any suggestion of how to fix it, before i start window shoping for a new unit
Welder troubles again
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
Yet more problems with my SIP/Cosmo 145
This time the wire feed is constantly stuck on, even if i disconnect the trigger wire which comes from the torch.
Any suggestions as to where to look to fix the problem, I've had a quick nose around insdide the machine, and can't see any shorting wires or burnt out components.
This welder has survived a few vehicle builds but perhaps it's had it's day now ?