landrover598
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Posts posted by landrover598
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I bought a set of 4 last week on ebay for £170 delivered. Not done many miles. There are some sets of there for £300
but a new set of 4 would cost you over £450. I run a set as my summer tyres, never had problems with them. -
Im paying £65 at present,
About right for a full pallet, £45 for a half pallet
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A very good day, despite not seeing a great amount of action. A few pics and video of what i did see.
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I had the same problem as you, and changed to a single pipe, run along the radius arm, with the tee at the caliper
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Any ideas where to look to solve a problem my steering developed yesterday (tdi 100") The steering has gone heavy / stiff and won't self centre any more? fluid level looks ok.
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Cool, Just checking I will be able to compress them!
they can be a bit stiff to start off but compress fine.
As per 1:20 on in this fantastic
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or have I got that wrong?
In a word, YES
I'm very happy with OME and many others will agree.
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I just cut a bit of ali plate with a few holes in it for my switch pannel, winch switch to the right.
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It was a factory special a good few years back Ross, silver hardtop with apline lights, and a smarter interior IIRC
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10 bolts across the rear x member, 4 bolts on the chassis outriggers at the front, 4 bolts into the cill uprights, 9 m6's across the top of the seat box, 2 bolts on the seat belt brackets, disconnect electics, fuel filler, seat belt, outer cills and it should pop off.
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Only minor differences bewtween classic RR and disco chassis, which won't have any affect on you. don't go the shortened 110 route though.
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Wheel bearing kit, Prop UJ, Complete brake system spare seal kit and fuel pump.
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So either the spacers are to make it look good or it was the easiest way to change the steel wheel studs for alloy wheel studs.
The reason is that freestyle alloys won't fit over the early thick drive flanges. Also it's the same studs for steel or alloy wheels.
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1984 Range Rover Classic rear
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Have you shopped around for the genuine parts? That seems like quite a lot for calipers.
I've been quote £240 for lockheads from my local Bearmach
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Has anyone had first hand experience of Paddock brake caliper quality ?
They list standard (£49+) or genuine (£115+) for the ones i need?
Any opinions / recommendations ?
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A few random snaps your welcome to use, hi rez can be emailed,
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200 miles a day.
We managed only 50 miles in a full days driving once, the interior roads can be very bad.
I've spent over 4 weeks touring iceland so far and stillhave loads more to see, must do yet another trip one day.
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I need to add a Eberspacher heater that will be part of the prep. I don't think it is that cold in June anyway,
When i went in 2008 we had far better weather there than was in the uk at the time, even t-shirt weather for a couple of days and never got cold in the tent at night.
Any routes through the interior are well worth doing, and can be done in a standard truck, just prep for water crossings. Make sure all your suspension and bushes are up to scratch as they will take some abuse on the gravel roads.
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Tolerance for the lugs welded onto the chassis?
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A 1/2" hole is probably the right size for 10mm bolt in a cast component like that, it's not the bolt which stops side to side movement, it's the bolt torque creating friction between the chassis and the bracket which holds it in place.
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You glue a rubber plug in the hole, you can buy diy kits which work really well in my experience.
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Sorry for the hijack Mr Lang, what size make type are your tyres
Nige
265/75/r16 insa turbo special track
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Taken Friday/Saturday
but a new set of 4 would cost you over £450. I run a set as my summer tyres, never had problems with them.
Tyre Brand
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
235, road use and reasonbly priced, you can go far wrong with a set of general grabber tr's taken off a nearly new defender, planty of sets on ebay for not much ££