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simonr last won the day on June 23 2019

simonr had the most liked content!

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About simonr

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    Trainee shepherd

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    As most people know, I used to own X-Eng - Something I'm still very proud of. In 2012 I handed it over to Foundry4x4 because my role had changed from designing cool stuff to essentially working in a shop! Since then, I've worked on contract for a number of companies including Jankel, Continental and most recently SpaceBear on SFX for Star Wars VIII - which has been the coolest thing I've ever done! Not often you can come home & say (truthfully) you've been designing space ships with Lasers!

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  1. Have to say I agree with Jamie_grieve. I had been hoping for something less vulnerable. The wheel-arch eyebrows are going to get destroyed, plastic or not. I have an older RRS which is not exactly 'rugged' but looks good in it's own right - and I would have been happy with something that looks great that isn't that utilitarian. Unfortunately, this is neither. Have to find something else to spend all the pennies I've saved up on! Si
  2. Only a couple of months late in replying - Lowe & Fletcher 2403 is exactly right. Si
  3. I'd bet on the Lego model being pretty accurate! They have produced models based on three of the Movies I've worked on (Star Wars VIII, Fantastic Beasts 2 & Spiderman). In each case, the model has been based on actual drawings. In the case of Fantastic Beasts, from Special Effects Drawings I suspect. You see the circle on the top of the roof? There's one on the underside of the chassis too. They didn't appear in the film - because they were the mountings to attach it to a slew-ring on a motion Platform. (I designed the motion platform). That says to me that Lego have good access to drawings - and that the Lego model is likely to be pretty close! That being the case - I quite like it! Si P.S. Almost every rig I've designed has had a Land Rover part in it - guess it's what I know best!
  4. John, that's the most sensible post I've read on this topic so far! As some will remember, I've built both Air and Independent suspension on different vehicles. Rather too many people told me I clearly didn't understand the physics (😉) if I thought independent would be any good. I wanted to try it BECAUSE so many people dismissed it, all quoting the same 'diff being low when the suspension is compressed' reason. You would be forgiven for thinking that because every thread on every forum is full of people repeating it. I found a few threads where people had actually tried it (on Pirate) and said it worked pretty well. They were universally flamed for 'not understanding the physics'. I thought I'd see for myself, rather than just repeat the same old mantra. It wasn't perfect - but it changed my perception. The occasions where the low centre were an issue were surprisingly rare. Where it shone was on bumpy hill climbs where your wheels bouncing lose you more traction than lockers could gain. The IS just managed to keep all the wheels on the ground more of the time. Even without lockers (it didn't have any) it would out-perform beams. You could approach hill climbs faster as it would soak up the inevitable pot hole at the bottom of the climb without bouncing on to it's roof. Some obstacles required a different approach, often using the better dynamic stability to your advantage. Both types have advantages & disadvantages - but I believe IS gives you more overall, even if it does underperform beam axles in a few specific situations. I hope the bodyshell is just a mule - as that's the bit that looks disappointing to me. I'd hoped for something like the new Jimny, something that looks really cool & distinctive. What we've seen so far, just looks like another RR clone. If the body is decent, I do plan to buy one. More-so now I've seen it has IS and Air!
  5. It will be possible to add speed control to slow it down. However, if you're using small cutters <6mm, 5k rpm isn't far off what you should be running. People always run mill cutters too slowly with too shallow cuts. Cranking up both gives you a better cut finish and makes the tools last longer (surprisingly) so long as you have decent cooling (which could just be an air blower). Si
  6. I have a theory about the apparent unreliability - and it's backed up by my own experience! When someone buys a 4x4, they feel like they are driving a tank and that it doesn't need the same level or care of servicing as a regular car. I read that a day off-road is the equivalent in terms of wear to between 1 & 2 months on the road too. They tend not to have it serviced by an expensive main dealer, or do it themselves. Either of the alternative options is then far more likely to use cheaper patterned parts. They will probably last long enough for you (or the next owner) to forget where they came from when they fail. The combination of these factors, later in the vehicles life, give the impression of the Land Rover being unreliable rather than it being unreliable due to what's been done to it as everyone thinks they are the perfect Mechanic! Why does this not apply to other 4x4's? Because there are practically no patterned parts available. Newer ones tend to be much more difficult to service without the 'special tools', computers etc - so on average, they receive better quality parts & servicing than LR's. Those of you who've known me a l-o-n-g time will remember my vehicles perhaps not having the best reliability record? (and some of the funny stories to go with that!). Then, I had a revelation (as above) and only fitted genuine parts. I also (unlikely as it may seem) followed the service manual to the letter (not the Haynes book of lies or my normal guesswork). Since then, I've had no serious problems. Outside regular servicing, in the last two defenders spanning 15 years, the only failures I've had are a head gasket on a 200Tdi and a wheel bearing on a Td5 110. My 2005 RRS has had a few minor problems (drivers heated seat not working and a CD stuck in the auto-changer) but, again nothing serious or expensive. I simply cannot believe that I'm just that lucky! Nor that the change from extreme 'bad luck' to 'good luck' was some kind of divine intervention!
  7. What about driving the compressor with an engine and using a small generator for everything else? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AIR-COMPRESSOR-50-LTR-NEW-PETROL-ENGINE-5-5-HP-INCS-FREE-10-MTR-AIRLINE/163032269806?hash=item25f57b03ee:m:mCm0ycFfSa9YZsxDDYI_QvQ Si
  8. I’ve generally just bought replacement cells the same size & type with solder tabs then re-made the packs. Sometimes the cells are not quite the same size - so it needs a bit of butchery to make them fit. Cells from here have been decent https://www.componentshop.co.uk/batteries.html individual cells: https://www.componentshop.co.uk/batteries/radio-control/single-cells.html They will make up custom packs too if you don’t have a big enough soldering iron to make a decent joint. They made me a 12v NiMh pack for my DeWalt Drill. It didn’t fit in the original casing so I just Glued it to the plastic bit which inserts into the drill, sawn off the original pack. Worked great and gave double the capacity of the original. Si
  9. simonr

    Booster packs

    Today my jump pack got used for the first time in anger. My friend’s Td5 90 Battery was too flat to start - combination of cold weather, possible glow plugs not working and not having been run in a while. It didn’t start immediately, but it certainly cranked enthusiastically! That’s why we suspect glow plugs. Si
  10. simonr

    Booster packs

    In my experience, the majority of starting problems are down to poor electrical connections. One of the biggest issues on LR's is using the chassis for the earth return on the starter. I would suggest running a heavy 25 or 35mm^2 cable from the battery -ve to one of the starter mounting bolts. Also replace the braided strap from the starter to the chassis, giving the studs a good wire-brushing. Cover all the connections in petroleum jelly before tightening which will give it long term protection from corrosion. This gives the starter and battery the best possible chance - and is a lot cheaper than either. Running a similar heavy earth from the Alternator to the battery also helps charging performance. A jump pack is still useful when all else has failed and you're going to be late for work! Si
  11. simonr

    Booster packs

    Gold star for Red90. Slightly less gold star for KevM 😉
  12. simonr

    Booster packs

    This is my, now complete, 'Ex-box'. The inverter is only 300W continuous (pure Sine Wave) but seems to cope with 550W for 2 mins until it overheats & shuts down. It's enough to run most small things like laptop chargers or a grinder for a while anyway. Si
  13. simonr

    Booster packs

    In my experience, most of the Lithium Ion types (Amazon /Ebay) pretty poor and do not deliver a useful current when required - cold, flat batttery. My advice would be to make your own. The bare minimum is just a known good battery - and some jump leads. Even a small lead acid battery will out perform most of the bought ones. You could put the battery in a box to make the whole thing tidier - Chris Watts GBMud made a nice one. I have a LiFePO4 Golf cart battery I use - which I’m planning on putting in an Ammo box along with its charger. Fixing the problem is often easier said than done. Si
  14. Despite being a previous seller of electric fan kits - I completely agree with this! A direct driven or viscose (preferred) fan can draw the equivalent of 10Hp (7.5kW) from the engine. Compare that to even the most powerful electric fans at 2/3Hp / 500W and you see why an engine driven fan will provide way more cooling. There is an argument that in cooler places like the UK you don't need that much cooling - until you do! Si
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