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simonr last won the day on September 25

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  1. Serious answer (to everyone) is to do a bit of research to find the name of a department head and a movie in production via IMDB - and write them a letter care of the studio at which it's filming (also from IMDB). The whole industry is very short of people at the moment - so, even if you wanted to work in costume or hair & makeup and have some useful skills, now is a good time to enquire. PM me if you're interested - I can give you some contacts & tips on how to write to them. The work is hard & the hours are long but the rates are good - and it's fantastic fun! I can't believe anybody wants to pay me for what I do!
  2. I don't actually know if it's the 'proper' gas - but I just googled for it. "2-3% Co2 In Argon is the correct gas to use for welding Stainless Steel" However, Argoshield will work fine - but the 2% Oxygen content will cause surface oxidation. Apparently not a problem structurally, but it doesn't look as nice.
  3. You can weld stainless with mild steel wire - but it's bad practice as the two steels cool at different rates, leading to fractures in the weld. I wouldn't do it on anything structural - but for an exhaust, the only real down side is a rusty patch. You can buy stainless wire (308 is used to weld 304 IIRC) - so, for the limited cost of 1/2 kg of the right wire, you might as well go with that! I've only used it once, and it was very similar to weld with, perhaps a bit hotter for a given power.
  4. Naaa, you'd hate it - playing with cool toys & blowing stuff up - it's terrible
  5. I've made a couple of exhausts out of mild steel, CDS tube (which I had lots of at the time). The wall thickness was about 2mm. I figured that it would take a lifetime to rust through. You can buy swept elbows to weld on, if you don't have a tube bender. The connectors are easily available - but I just went to the local ATS and asked if I could raid their skip. It usually had stainless bits, including muffler boxes that can be adapted to fit. I'm much too tight to pay for a custom exhaust! Making one out of 304 Stainless would be easy. It's not worth using 316 as it tends to suffer more from fatigue. A 304 exhaust, even in 1mm wall will last decades, if not centuries!
  6. Personally, I would start with the engine wiring. At this stage, just strip back any cables that look singed & temporarily replace the individual cores where they are damaged. I would just temporarily bridge the melted connectors at this stage. Then see if it will start. Once you have the engine running, it's worth addressing the mechanical components that may have been damaged - as you know that with the wiring fixed properly, you'll have a running car. If you can't get it running - there's no point in doing much more to it. Replacing whole looms will be difficult & expensive. If you have the time & money, do that. However, just replacing the individual cores and connectors will likely be enough for the remaining life of the vehicle. I've had good results with heat-shrink solder connectors long term, in wet environments. They are ideal for replacing cores without adding too much bulk to the cable. Looks like a nice project!
  7. We have one of them in the workshop - it's awesome! I used it on some big steel on steel pin hinges that someone had forgotten to grease before assembling. With 32 Ton on the hinge, we couldn't push in any grease with a hand grease gun, just couldn't get enough pressure. The battery gun squirted a whole tube in, in no time. The bad squealing noises went away as if by magic!
  8. A fairly clever idea I saw, to protect a RTT was a single cable (steel rope kind of thing) which passed through a loop attached to the roof of the LR and attached (somehow) to the underside of the tent, in the middle. The cable was sufficiently taught that even if you cut the support posts off the gutter, you would still need to reach in to the middle to cut the rope. That requires a very tall person with arms the length a Gorillas to reach. I agree with Dave about combination locks. It's not hard to 'pick' them - but it takes time. They are less suceptable to most of the attacks likely on a key lock (Freezing, bumping, drilling etc). Of course you can cut the hasp easily in most cases. Shrouded hasps are much harder - as there's nowhere to get bolt cutters near and even access with a battery disc cutter is hard. In practice though, a couple of cheap padlocks plus a second layer to make it take longer to steal is probably better than just an expensive padlock. Si
  9. I think you might be taking it all too seriously The impossible physics used to wind me up - but now just makes me wonder how they did it. Sometimes it's CG - but often it's some kind of crazy rig. Now, instead of getting wound up by the unlikely physics, I marvel at the engineering which has gone in to making something behave the way it did, in a controled & safe way. It has allowed me to enjoy the films on a whole new level. This is my favorite example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hRgq12XOhjc The "Two Guys" Chris Corbould refers to are Dick & Lou - who are just amazing! When I saw the film - I wrote it off as CG - but then I was amazed to find that it was "real" (even if cheated a bit).
  10. Do you now! I'll give you as much as I can. When the film is released, I'll spill the beans. I suspect though, when you see it, you'll say "Ah - that's what he was talking about!"
  11. Thanks John, A lot of heavy armoured cars are built on F450 or F550 running gear. This one was built on an F550 chassis, made by Delta in Tbilisi, Georgia. The axles were massive - but would probably weigh more than the rest of the car. I think you're right - ill try the initial testing at least with D2 axles (which coincidentally have the same stud pattern as the car it's meant to be!). As you say, we can swap them out easily - and the crew certainly are motivated! The Director shouting at you tends to do that! Thanks everyone for your help. Project starts in ernest today - you've given me a lot of options / fallbacks if something doesn't work! Si
  12. I'd love to chat with Jez again. I figured he'd moved on from all this & probably wouldn't want to be bothered!
  13. You'd have to join the queue! Unfortunately, this movie franchise hangs on to everything!
  14. I'll have a look on FB - I gon't go there much any more, every group seems to turn into a flame-fest for armchair experts.
  15. We have previous for bending them. The scene in Fast9 where they were driving through a minefield - the armoured car was in fact a mog. They did survive about a dozen jumps though. .Err...no...not even slightly similar. It's going to use one of my (daft) ideas for suspension. Simulations in Solidworks Motion look promising. What is the axle pictured? The knuckles look the kind of thing I was hoping for.
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