petrolhead63

usual thing, both sunroofs are leaking a bit, only from certain angles. Parked forward down a hill no leaks, If it faces up the hill it pours in the rear one and dumps a load on the gear lever the first time you hit the brakes after setting off ;0) My only question is, how do they remove? do I need strip the whole headliner out?? They are manual versions on a millenium TD5.

I should have replied sooner, many thanks for your effort in posting the pics. It has ensured I got it correct, I agree the snap ring may have got dropped in when I lifted top cover off which was a bit stubborn so probably was silly and did not hold the gear lever still with a 3rd hand! I tried fishing with a magnet as it happens before you suggested it but could not find one small enough to go right down, the large gears are really close to the casing. I have chanced it I'm afraid and had to assemble it. It drives lovely......better than ever, just hope that ring stays in the bottom, I suspect it should end up stuck in the sludge. The grub screw on the yoke was fitted clean and dry very tightly with a little dob of loctite for good measure..

my experience is it is usually the frame seal into the roof, the sunroof frame tendes to go a bit out of shape with age too.

Hey Dooroy, that would be very kind of you thanks! I have a bush and clip ordered and await the post with baited breath! Looking at the bush remains it has a shoulder which I think is too big for it to push into the yoke from the top. It looks like the yoke comes off (It is off fine ;0) and the new bush pushes in from below with the ball captive in it by the metal spring clip on top of the yoke as you look into the gearbox. My continued concern is the old clip........missing in action! somewhere within the gearbox and just hope it lays in the bottom out of harms way or that the gear wheels are hard enough to chew it up and spit it out in bits!

ok, made time over lunch, the bush in the yoke is clapped, it was seen laying in the gearcase and hooked out with a coat hanger wire! The grub screw/yoke seem ok, I will check. Of concern though, the ball was laying in the yoke and retrieved but I think there is a clip somewhere that is missing.....in the gearbox! I am of a mind it will either end up in the bottom of the casing out of harms way or be soft enough to chew up if it tangled in the gears? Because it was in bits inside...can someone tell me how the plastic bush, clip and ball all fit together?

Thanks for that, I think I need to take the top off the box. The truck is a 2000 millenium model so not so far off a 90's one and likely even built in 99 ;0) I guess if I lift the top I can see the grub screw and the other bushings etc on the linkage/stick assembly?

My TD5 manual disco 2 has developed a gear selector problem which I do not believe to be the usual bias plate/springs, these I replaced and set up some time ago after the usal breakage and it drove very well. This truck always had the occasional "baulk" to finding first gear since I got it, over 30K miles if it helps! It has suddenly decided not to let me select the 1st/2nd plane most of the time and when in 3rd/4th I am pretty sure the front back movement in gear is more than it used to be....a few inches even in gear. The bias plate/springs are fine and still adjusted well I think and generally this only affects 3rd/4th central bias I think. So I think it could be in the gearbox selectors? any ideas greatfully received and also information about whether I can take the top off the box to sort it without taking the box out the vehicle, I can sea a square section held on with bolts? Also I am aware that the gearstick yoke bush can break up...., if the bias plate is off can I simply unbolt and lift the top plate off to get at the gearstick bush and if it was broken up would it be very obvious before I get inside to look? could that be worn and the culprit?

I just got a perfect same colour rear quarter for my disco 2, the existing one had a bad knock and needs to come off to straighten it anyway. I am fine taking old cars apart but the disco I have never delved into the bodywork. any tips on how to remove the rear nearside quarter and replace it with the minimum of fuss and what trim to remove.....any hidden clips etc, all greatfully received.

unfortunately my better other half hit a post with the disco 2 last year and I figure its time I fixed it. The rear passenger quarter is quite badly stuffed and best cash job to straighten/paint obtained is £5-600, and thats with me stripping bumper/mouldings etc and finishing off. I thought maybe it would be better to replace the whole quarter with a used one in correct colour if I find one, the corner light panel is fine. Feedback on this this thought would be appreciated, is that a viable option or is it seriously horrible to take off and change? meaning the repair is a better option. Has anybody got a dark Metaillic Oxford Blue nearside rear quarter near enough for me to collect? its a millenium edition TD5.

are the bolts up inside behind the plastic arch liner? and the mastic, is that body colour painted or simply over the seam hidden? I dont like the sound of lots of rust on such young discos...perhaps I should get my waxoyl gun spraying!

I took my EGR off completly using a kit that included blanking plugs, a plate for the exhaust manifold and a neat metal pipe to bolt on in place of the EGR. Whether EGR is faultly or not I decided to ditch it (kept as you say just in case mot changes) If you look at the EGR valve which is likely filthy, gummy and nasty ir restricts the air intake pipe by a huge amount! A diesel performance is hindered by restricted airflow so it seemed best to open up the intake and allow it to breathe. My TD5 subsequently is a lot peppier (for definite!) and better still it has increased fuel consumption from 26-28mpg to 28-30mpg. Better on lots of long runs. I did it a year ago and even in cold winter, short runs it never fell below 27mpg this year, it was lots less last year!

unfortunately my other half recently argued with one of those nasty short concrete posts and has made a pretty good job of the passenger side rear quarter. It is repairable but to do it well it would be easier to get properley behind the damage. This panel does remove by only bolts/screws I believe. How does it come off and how long? Any known pitfalls? Other owners experiences would be welcome, or if you happen to have an oxford blue rear quarter for me perhaps thats easier!

sound advice from you both thanks, I will replace both plate and springs and feel sure it will be the problem. I see loads for sale to suite diso 1 but none for the TD5 disco 2. Is it a main agent part only? Which gearbox does the TD5 have in it? I feel sure I will be happier getting a specialist supplied part than going to a Landy main agent!

decent scrap metal yards buy them. My yard looks in them with a torch to check pikey's not taken out the inside and added different weight! You need to trust the scrappy, they buy them on visual inspection only and for all I know I get ripped off. However, original car type cats are £30-60 but after market ones £1 only.

My Disco 2 had a new bias plate fitted by a garage just before I bought it, they had not adjusted it correctly so the gearlever was not in the correct "at rest" position 3rd/4th. When I replaced the clutch about 18 months ago I put this right by adjusting the bias plate correctly. Recently the gear lever at rest has moved across to the 1st/2nd position on the left, but still has spring to move to the right. Before I take the interior out and drill rivets I wondered if the experience on this forum could tell me if it is more likely the bias plate has come loose and off adjustment OR if something is broken? In which case I should buy parts beforehand! I assume something breaks/wears or why did it receive a new bias plate with the last owner?

I thought it may be useful to report the result of removing the EGR valve from my Disco TD5. It is now four months and about 4000 miles since I removed the EGR, blanked the exhaust manifold hole and fitted a joining pipe on the inlet side. I must say I noticed the truck was a little quicker and had more grunt pulling from low revs in particular immediately. Usually a cynic concerning magic fixes I decided it was just my wishful thinking. But the feeling continued! I can now also report, absolutely without doubt, that fuel consumption is give or take 7% - 10% improved. It used to average about 27.5mpg over a mixture of driving with it dropping to 26mpg in the colder weather with lots of slow driving. It now constantly returns 29-30mpg (which it only ever gave on long runs before) and I just got almost 32mpg on the last fill up. I do fill up each time to know what is used. The trip meter used to do 460-500 miles and the low fuel light would come on, it now typically does about 550 and the last one was near 600. It may be my truck had an EGR fault, but impressive none the less. It did register on Hawkeye that the EGR had been stuck open at some time.

Lazy question, dark metallic blue millenium edition TD5, where do I find the paint code on it? Thanks

mine collapsed evenly and it was the compessor failed, it also started going down on one corner and that was air spring. I struggle to understand why it went down quickly and evenly at the rear when the compressor failed because there would appear to be an electrically operated blocking solenoid for each air bag on the system preventing leak out unless the solenoid is operated. The system is simple, a compressor to a T piece with 2 solenoids, one leading to each air bag. Thats it! except its computer controlled of course

intertesting, if anybody else has feedback let us know. I too will happily pull off the EGR just so as not to recirculate dirty air. In addition the fault codes on my vehicle indicate it has been stuck at some time. The air filter I am less convinced will make any difference.....its no performance motor. I also wonder if it will filter as well, I know the makers state they do but I am not entirely convinced.

I'm thinking of removing and adding a proper bypass to my EGR valve and fitting a K&N filter. Who has added these simple mods and what were the results if anything at all noticable!

Having got the air suspension pump working again I still have the collapsing passenger side. It had not noticably done this before the pump failure but perhaps started doing it and provoked the pump to pack up if it was close to being clapped out. I would be interested to hear what experience of air springs people have and how long they last? I will be miffed if mine is duff.....its just over two years and 20K miles old.

Halfords use Holts paintmatch system I believe and the only problem is how good the guy mixing it is! particularly for very small tint weights. This chap below used to have a shop local to me and has recently shut shop but does spray match cans mail order...he is the dogs when it comes to mixing correctly! I used 2 cans last year to lightly recolour all body mouldings on an M535i beemer and also various small body repairs. I can do a whole bumper from primer up comfortably with a can, especially if its a laquered colour where you need less thickness of colour coat. I have over the years done some cracking repairs with these cans of "proper paint" which are not like the waterery stuff out of usual aerosols. They are so good I dont bother use my compressor/spray gun most of the time. His name is dudley and tell him the tall bloke from Rushmoor recommended him! http://www.cartouchuppaint.co.uk/

Update....one side totally down! So I wonder if I have one faulty solenoid blocker valve. I assume it is operated to let air pump up OR let air down. Looking at the system there is no reason why a collapse one side should equal out to the other side. Each side has its own solenoid blocker valve. I also guess my solenoid could have packed up during the day I was towing a car trailer around giving the system extra work and the pump ran for too much to keep me pumped up causing failure of that too. am I right in my assumptions how this system works?

I have had no known leaks until this collapse and it stayed up overnight both sides. That said I have just got the car pumped up with another compressor fitted...I only put the compressor in, no solenoids etc. It did not come up after leaving it days even to reset any trips. The link is in the box under the bonnet, as is relay I have found. My concern now is it seems to settle very slightly on the left when left...and if I put my ear to the compressor I can hear a light ticking like air is leaking out when it is parked/turned off. I will see what it does overnight but wonder if a solenoid is leaky? I assume these solenoids let air out too when the suspension is lowered?? so therefore could develope a very slight leak. I got my Hawkeye as it happens today...but not unlocked it. Thanks for your help people.. Is the very faint tick normal from the compressor after switch off?

ok, let me know when its off and how much if I need it...too far to collect. I would rather keep the air as I tow a car trailer a bit and it is nice to keep level! also useful to raise when grounding the hitck/draw bar in large dips on tracks etc. I look forward to hearing advice on what to check how.