MasterSplicer

I agree with you Bill al the way but still many people don't realise this at al. When you buy things first time you think it sshould be good and i was one of the very first ones. Til you start to realise these things or even see it your self. And to go and say lets replace al the bushes for rose joints that's something i wouldn't do because then i would take it to another direction. I have tried it and it works makes it lot better and a lot more noise. Advantage is again that you can really hear very clear if everything works in proper order. Vibrations where never any issue really.

This wil tell you exactly how the system double beadlock is working. They are al working more or less the same way. This is Hummer based but that doesn't matter really http://www.pirate4x4.com/articles/tech/bil.../PR-Hummer_Rims

Scrap people are using a very poor quality joint,no greasing wil change that

I have used rose jouint for couple of years right now and i don't agree with any of the statements about they are wear out very fast greasbles aren't weaker etc. I have used and abused them for some time and non of them is ready for the bin. I the time i was looking for joints only wanted the greasble ones. I never have any bad feelings about them. They have done more then 50000 without any problem. But it's a good joint made out of chroom moly steel. Not a cheap crappy one. The only thing you have to do is grease them. When you are not willing to grease them don't even start because then the above story's wil become thrue. Btw i have now rebuildble ones myself just as a tryout and they are the strongest on the planet. Buying them is expensiv 110 US but rebuiding is very cheap 15-20 dollars and fully adjustble as wel. What Gigglepin is offering is again a very good and wel made joint but they cost some money. They wil last longer as wel much longer as wel. http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/P...ints/index.html you can check this link as wel then you know where we are talking about. there are several good joints for sale but they are al costing money

You are the same as the one i sended the rear MM winch photo's aren't you?? Hybrid from hell is the name?? When that's the case then i only can say i never had any reply on them,even it took me some time to collect the info ou requested

I have driven since 2000 a 3-link from Safarigard,never had really problems with it. Not on the road or of the road. I have to say that the setup of the springs and shocks can result in a totally other driving car as before. I always had the impression that even changing the pressure in side the shocks made the handling different. But a Def on extrem tires is not driving as a go cart really. Then i build them my self ,because a had some problems with the space what was lost underneath the axel, but this again was causing me to get the trackrod removed. My disign is totally different from what i have seen so far. Trackrod has to go and hydr.steering ram is doing the job. Panhard rod has to go as wel. During the Croatia Trophy 2005 my panhard rod came of the car taking with him the complete chassis rail on that side. Car wasn't to steer anymore. But this was also because of the extrem articulation in the front axel 16 inch shocks. This was working ok but the side to side movement of the axel was from another planet. But the forces controled by the panhard are very extrem. Now i am trying to tackle the same problem with a 4 link system and the panhard rod is gone. Hydr.steer gives me more freedom in working really. But i would like to point out a negative aspect of the Safarigard 3-link setup what i never have seen anybody writing/talking of. When you are really heavy backingup the car into a steep bank and it really needs to be done with some power/speed then you can see something really strange going on. It's not really strange anymore as you realise what happens. The rubbers inside the 3 member are completly compressed,both sides and on that same time it's almost if the axels is going to turn arround it's own axel. On that time during Croatia it was causing a hughe dent underneath the engine. I have to say that we used bigger propshaft with drive flanges of 100 mm in diameter. But on the same time when this happens the angle of the differential is changing completly as wel. In my opinion the rubbers are part of this problem and the 3 members center is really close to the centerline of the axel casing. What i realised there in the field was that when it really would be able to flip over then you never can bring it back into the position as it should be. Of course everything would be twisted and bend. How ever that is just the only big but from my point of view of the Safarigard unit. The complete set is very nicly made and very wel welded. Even the paint is from a very good sort. Bolts washers it's al there. Would i use it again , don't think so because i would like to move on with making/trying things. Many times it's one step forwards and in another field 2 steps going back. Til you have sorted that problem. Hope this is any help in your discussion.

Huh then i was mistaken thought you had manual operated valves. You are right it's important to throw something when you want. You had never any problems with the solenoids when you where acting as a sub marine???

You don't use a hydr.electric operated valve are you Jezz? Thought you used mechanical valve so no amp draw at al is there??

You really like that one don't you Dolly

send me your e-mail addres i wil send you some photo's

I heard the hydr.winch rumour even here in Holland. Should be a very wel know company who puts it on the market. But don't know who it is. Just rumours really. Yes house is sold. People who bought wanna sell there's first. Then i am of to Sweden and maybe i wil miss these bloody "stroopwafels"my self. But it wil not be easy to get my Def on Swedish plates. Dolly what are you up to with your new build truck or is it al secret????????????

Wel daan could bring you some since i am coming from the wooden shoe country!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Don't know them never heard of them eather. first impression is that they are building race parts,and then realising that you can make money with beadlocks. Thought i would see you in Scotland,AFC!! Have seen your name on some entry list on the web,but when you are at leo's let me know. Jezus al the English speaken people i know are cracy about "stroopwafels". Had somebody over from the States,he took a complete suitcase full of them You heard something about a complete new hydr.winch what comes on the market in the UK??

Hi Dolly, It's a pretty misty world these beadlocks in the States. The general director of Allied racing wheels is Greg Mulky and he's a very plesant man to talk to. And the contact came on very strange way because normally you never wil have the change to talk with him. Greg has bin involved in many rim companys in the States and he is a very wel experenced man in the rim world. Think he's also the general president of the US rim association. I looked that up on the internet and found several articles about him. Anyway i was asking for info on the Aluminium Monster wheels and there our story started. These people where looking for someone big to sell a few containers to Europe and if i could help them out. I certainley couldn't pull this of so i gave hime a few contacts in the UK and he took it from there. he offerd me some of these Monster wheels because of my help and i revused them. On that time i was already going for Stazworks rims. Even Mulky really wanted me to drive his wheels as sort of a mobile billbord i didn't accept the offer. Funny thing is that after that our contact only became much much better. I have seen his rims and they look good but and that's a pretty big but their quality isn't really what you would like. The ones i have seen had a black paint on them,powdercoat it was. But the rims where original chrome. Don't have to explain to you what happens if you powdercoat chrome without any thing else. So al the paint came of very quickly. Just a stone is enough. And we hit some of them at least i do. The other thing with these rims was that some simply didn't liked them at al. Uk people who bought them,because there clamping force wasn't enough. The person who told me is very experienced driver and isn't telling any bull. He only told me and have never seen his opinion on any forum site. He thought they where carp specially when you use them hard. Weld wheels my opinion? I have welded several sets my self without any problems.But al one side clamping,pretty straight forwardjob really nothing difficult. At least i didn't had any problems with them. Al my rings where lasercut. line them out on top of the rim and welding. Sended a complete set to the UK and this guy brought the rims with my rings to the proffesionell welding shop. The fubard his complete set of wheels. In the speed range from 55 til 85 km/hour you couldn't drive the car because of extrem vibrations in the steering. So for the "proffesionels"it was to difficult. The double a never did for more then 1 reason. The pressed center as Stazwork uses is impossible for me to do. He's using a 500tons press to make them. Then the other thing is they are buying there rim parts over there. It's little difficult to discribe but the whole rim is made out of peaces. Ring center etc. And last thing what is the most important for that kind of money i can't make them at al. As i wrote you before he has made me my rims how i wanted them. Special steel special inner poly ring. The normally pressent bead ring what's on every rim on the inside taken off. Special when you are using double beadlocks you don't want that beadlock device on your rim. because when you want to seperate the two parts of the rim then that should go fast and easy and not that the bead is getting stuck on the internal bead holder ring what's pressed into every rim. As for Hutchinson they didn't wanted to do anything for me.But that's now almost 2 years ago and since then i never spoke with them anymore. Many of the US rim shops are just interrested in your money and they haven't any idea where you are talking about. I had some who had not a clou what a double beadlock was even it was on their website. Stazwork was totally different but he's just a very small player on a hughe market inthe US. But everybody i talked with in the rokcrawler scene said that Stazworks where the rims to go for. And that's what i did and didn't regrett it one moment. Only once when they had lost my pallet with rims in the London Harbour and afterwards i had to pay extra because of storage costs. So Jez to get back to your question are they top quality? Stazworks are for sure but the ones i have seen from Allied racing wheels where certainley not.And in US magazines the Rock-a thon is a very good rim. Maybe it is a s you don't care that paint falls of etc or maybe because these where going to Europe the quallity was different,don't know. I wouldn't buy them my self. Hope this helps

These wheels are made by Allied racing wheels in the USA. It's one big company with several names. Talked to the boss time ago and that's what he told me. They have several sales points al over the States. Thought that one of the Ibex boys have bought of him. Neil Redpath is the name. He sells some models,but not double beadlocks

http://www.army-technology.com/contractors...cks/hutchinson/ These people are not willing to help/sell you any of there beadlocks.

16"x 8 cost you 225 US dollars. Had them speciall made with a special pressed center from another steel then John is using normal. The same i wanted with the poly insert he had to make them as light as possible and he did. For these specifications a payed an extra 25 dollar a rim. i have now two complete sets of these rims and they are even better then you see it on the photo. The only thing you have to keep in mind is that every bead it self is not the same in thickness. Mine where specially made for the simex and i tried a wrangler and that didn't fitt at al. The bead is much thinner as the simex. The painting on the rim is on a very high level. You can order the rims as you want them John is a very helpfull guy. Every offset is possible.

Daan you are better of with John Stazwork rims much better.

Wil cal Leo anyway. He came with this sugesstion time ago to hop over when you are driving to Russia. Wil ask him what fitts best in his schedule.

Dolly, You have a sharp eye. When are you at Leo's place? Next weekend you said!! Must take some time of,when i can. Let me know the time when you are over. Al ready so far??

Adrian, I have done lot of testing to create a ,in my opinion good setup. Even i am chanching it again. Used a twin pump setup PTO driven and that gave me 125 cc as a total pump volume. Winch Mile marker Tires 36 inch Diff is 4,7 transfer box fitted with a crawler gear And when al this came together i had a 1 : 1 drive assist tank i have used is filled with about 55-55 ltrs Al the oil is cooled by a hughe cooler what can handle a max of 120 ltrs a min. So that's the flow where i am working with. At least in that setup. Tubing and hoses used 20 mm for the pressure and 22 mm for the return So i took what the cooler could handle as a max and took it from there. Using a hughe 1 inch ports valve block and that's what you want because other wise it gets very hot. Systems with 15/16 and even 18 mm can't handle these flows. It's even a fact that the 20 mm is to small but some times you have to make a compromise. The hoses getting very thick as is the tubing,what makes it difficult to work with in some times very tight area's. Hope this helps

1 : 50000 is on the market from garmin. not sure if you could run it with Memory map. But when you are using the http://www.ttqv.com/main.php?sprache=2 then you can run the Garmin in that software program

You could have a leak there on the diesel cooler. There is a fuell line connection over there. It's some sort of a push pull connector what makes them connected with the cooler. Maybe one of them is not in good order anymore. I have never seen a leaking cooler before. I would go for the option that the line connections are bad. You can take the complete unit of and inspect it. I have done it before. Rob