steve200TDi
-
Posts
1,791 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
6
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by steve200TDi
-
-
- Popular Post
- Popular Post
Check the pieces needed on Rebrickable.com to see if you already have the pieces to build it!
Ah, sorry, showing my LEGO nerdy side
Steve
-
3
-
1
-
2
-
Nice lathe, I use one of these at work and I too have a Smart and Brown Model M at home.
But yes, I can confirm it was a pain at work having to set up the tool height, I even had to sharpen the tip too!
Fortunately I have an adjustable tool post at home to set the tool height, I still have to set it up each time I change the bit as I only have one bit holder!
Are you going to do a full restoration or just a good clean up and get it working.
The tool post looks good, at least the the height is adjustable so good for getting you started!
Steve
-
I have these levers which help greatly when refitting the tyre.
-
Thanks for your reply Smallfry, that's the type of wall I would be happy with, looks good and strong!
The wall will be built in front of the two fences in the photo, so no soil between the wall and the fence and soil up to the top on the inside. The wall will will be 80cms high from the level at the moment, but I will need to dig down for foundations and probably another brick's worth, so getting on for a 1m high wall.
I can also tie in this wall to the existing walls that are there to make it even stronger.
Thanks for your replies so far.
Steve
-
On 3/4/2023 at 8:46 AM, Stellaghost said:
You may have noticed I've slowed down a wee bit, change of priority at the moment due to this little guy joining the family
regards Stephen
That's a nice crocheted blanket! My wife crochets.....blankets, dragons, dinosaurs, whales....all sorts really!
steve
-
1
-
-
3 minutes ago, sean f said:
There are a LOT of variables, so very difficult for anyone to give solid advice, quite a lot will depend on how high the wall will be, any existing slopes or ground conditions etc, etc. One thing that will be required (and is sometime missed) is decent drainage through the wall, if you effectively make a muddy pond the weight of water building up will do very bad things.
Now the safety bit no one likes, if it is going to support material from going onto some one else's property or a public space (pavement/road) then you really need to take qualified advice from someone on the ground (I expect several people on here who are involved in ground works could do that), otherwise if it collapses and someone gets hurt it will get very messy. Worst case you need to be able to stand in court and say it was safe to the best of your knowledge, advice from someone on a forum doesn't really count, advice from someone who visited in person and has relevant qualifications or years of experience does.
If it is entirely on your property then it easier as it's down to you, and any collapse would be your issue. Personally I tend to over engineer things so buttresses etc would be my way but it will add to cost, also possible if you support the shed on the walls or pillars then it would reduce any tendency for the walls to be pushed out by the weight behind them.
Hopefully there is an experienced builder on here that could give you some guidance, there are normally rules of thumb for these things, x high needs a base y wide etc but local soils and ground conditions will be a major factor.
Thanks for your advice, I fully support over engineering the wall, as I don't want it collapsing. The idea of somehow supporting the shed on part of the wall and/or having concrete piles going down to the lower levels could be another idea so that the weight of the shed is supported lower down and isn't sitting on the newly compacted soil.
Steve
-
Hi,
I moved house a year and a half ago and now have a single garage and space in the garden to build a shed. The garage will have a large workbench (I already have some 900mm deep worktop for that) as well as all my tools. The shed will be where all the Land Rover parts will be stored along with bikes, garden tools etc. I have collected a lot of wood for the shed build and bought framing wood and shiplap. I also have some racking to go in too, so this will govern the roof height, but I'll put plans up of the shed later.
The first step will be to build the shed as the garage is full of wood! There's a 9 foot square in the bottom corner of our garden which is sunken by 80cm. I was and had designed a shed to fit in this area with adequate access last year. A kitchen decided to get built first and then the weather turned cold and wet. The kitchen is done and what a great job my wife has done as she has painted all the old and new units, I fitted them all and leveled them and got a mate to install a new work top.
As the driveway needs extending and we are having some chimney tops removed, we will have some rubble and soil to shift. This then led to an idea of filling in the sunken area in the garden to then create privacy and to build a bigger shed. Now a bigger shed is always a good idea and privacy is good too. So I now need to tweak my design to lengthen it a bit.
So I need to build a retaining wall around two sides and tie them into what brick walls are already there. So my first question is what type of retaining wall do I need and how do I make it strong enough as there will be a lot of soil behind it and a heavy shed pushing down on said soil. The existing wall to the left looks like a double skin brick wall, but the other wall is only a single wall of breeze blocks. I had also thought about incorporating brick pillars that jutted out form the wall at 90 degrees to sit part of the shed on. I've also seen long steel posts that allow concrete sleepers to slide in. All I want is a strong solution which isn't going to crumble and damage my shed that I've built on top!
So fire away with your suggestions, I look forward to hearing them!
Regards
Steve
-
1
-
-
Is it being craned onto the milling table? Looks like it might be craned in through the roof. Where's its new home?
-
Ah, a fridge BOX.......I was thinking you're picking up a camping fridge!
Steve
-
Good to hear you found one. I will look through the pictures I have later to see if there any useful ones for you.
Steve
-
Here's the wiring diagram you need, a couple of relays, a switch and some wires.
But as you say, if you haven't the time, it maybe easier for you to buy a kit.
Steve
-
Check out my second rear winch bumper build here:
-
I've found this picture of it.
-
Yes, I made my own rear crossmember. Square in section with four crush tubes where the winch bolted too.
I'll have to find a picture.
Steve
-
On 10/12/2022 at 8:21 AM, muddy said:
Can't believe there's not a fridgefreezer in there!
Fridgefreezer will be up front either in the drivers or passengers seat!
-
1
-
1
-
-
-
I guess you've done the purging cycle, ignition on and 6 accelerator presses does it. I know mine took loads of cranking to get all the air out and it eventually started.
Steve
-
1 hour ago, Ed Poore said:
To be honest @FridgeFreezer my TDS Goldfish has been more than adequate for recovery scenarios. I don't find it that tedious when re-spooling but it still has the stupidly thick (almost 3/4") rope that came on it secondhand off a forum member. It's had next to no maintenance in 10 years and has never let me down.
With recovery scenarios you get plenty of time to cool down the winch between pulls which is the main thing the electric ones require. I'm (vapour) considering a hydraulic one because I already have a hydraulic PTO pump on both the 110 and 6x6 and more than recoveries it's "forestry / farm" work where it's working all day.
So what you're say Ed is that you don't find the TDS Goldfish very T-D-S!........😂🤣
-
1
-
-
I bit the bullet (Nonimouse was right!) and bought a new one from here:
Check out this thread too:
Steve
-
1 minute ago, Bowie69 said:
The 90 not fully sorted then....?
There's always things to do on it! New snorkel, some paint, maybe look at fitting rear seats for my daughter. Door maintenance to minimise rust! So if I'm doing racer stuff, the 90 will get left again. It's just going to take a little bit longer to sort all these bits out. Once the house stuff has been finished or slowed down I'll have more time to work on the fleet and hopefully get out in one of them!
Steve
-
2
-
-
On 9/3/2022 at 9:07 AM, Bowie69 said:
So Steve, now lockdown and all that nonsense is over, how's this thing going?
Well, to put it bluntly.....not very well!
I still have it, but after a house move in October, I'm still doing house stuff, decorating, a kitchen re model later in the year. There will be a shed build for all my land rover parts (I hope to do a build thread on her for this), so that I can organise my single garage with all my tools. Once that is all sorted, I can at least think about the racer. I still want to continue the mods that I had planned and to go racing and try them out. After that, we'll see, maybe sell it to concentrate more on my 90.....
Steve
-
1
-
1
-
-
2 hours ago, Stellaghost said:
Finally success, two lots of cable ties this time and a closed spherical bearing centre's of 22"
Happy days regards Stephen
Does it tie up with this?
https://www.ridefox.com/filter.php?m=offroad&t=shocks&f1=type&v1=Smooth Body
Steve
-
I use one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Dawn-Industries-T100-Original-KwikCut/dp/B000PSC1DQ
That is identical, but it was my grandad's, so not sure where he purchased it from. It does the job, helps if you twist/rotate the pipe as you apply pressure to cut the pipe.
The link that Si put up seems a good purchase, I might add that to my list of tools too!
-
Yes, you can't just post a picture like that without doing a build thread!!
Steve
New to me -excited - by I am a bit sad lol
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
That reminds of this vice!
I definitely wouldn't mind one of these!
Steve