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Ibex94

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Posts posted by Ibex94

  1. I had to change my steering wheel to get through the IVA as the LR standard one wasn't compliant😫  Having previously bought the standard one with the nice big centre pad which I thought would be.

    Ended up buying a Momo hub and a 350mm Motamec semi dished wheel which didn't require me to part with a major body part.  I think the quality of the wheel is good and am pleased with its far.

    If you go this route then worth finding this one as it is designed to collapse in the event it comes into contact with you in an accident.  Every little helps😃Image04-07-2023at10_10.jpeg.a8b2b39a7ef5d4eb2a2d0606bac88902.jpeg

  2. So as a C plate your truck probably started life as a 19J turbo diesel in which case the air filter set up was very similar the defender 200tdi as they both had high mounted turbos.

    Why do you want to change the air filter, what do you perceive to be the benefit?  Which 200tdi do you have fitted, defender or disco?

    stick up some picks if you can.

    My Ibex has the air filter on the off side as I couldn't get to the side of the vehicle for a snorkel on the n/side.

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  3. Evening all,

    I have my IVA retest booked for Friday morning.  One of my fails was the speedo under reading by a little over 10%.  I'm using a TD5 speedo which works fine.  So as it's electronic I bought myself a Speedo Healer, a little box of electrickery which adjusts the pulse count.  Unfortunately I can't get it to work, it plugs into the loom so I can swap it out.  Speedo works fine without it, when Plug it in the unit turns on and I can set the correction factor but the speedo either doesn't read it or the unit isn't putting out a signal and I don't have the kit to check the output.

    I'm running a set of 255 85 16s and I've now fitted a blue (20 tooth) speedo drive gear in place of the brown 22 tooth one.  By my reconning using the sat nav as a reference I'm within about 1mph of truespeed but still under reading which isn't allowed😩.

    Does anyone have experience setting up speedo healer and have any advice.

    Alternatively is there anyone around Somerset who's got a spare set of defender wheels with smaller tyres on them?  I recon Defender standard 235 85 16 should get me legal - just need then for Friday morning 26-05.

    Thanks in advance.

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  4. On 3/27/2023 at 3:45 AM, uninformed said:

    Brakes are an interesting topic. My 98’ 110 cab chassis does not, nore ever had a proportional valve. I think that’s true for a lot of 110s? No idea on the 130 but I’d assume the same given the affect longer wheelbase has on ‘pitch’. 

    I can’t speak for the earlier 110s but when they went to discs all round, the front calipers have exactly double the piston area of the rears. Obviously pad area and rotor dia also play a roll in brake bias, as does the ‘locus’ point , which in our case of AWD is the centre of centre diff. 
     

    Add to all that, you will get more pitch in a shorter wheelbase than longer. 

    Thanks Uninformed, from what I can see bias type valve only went in the 90, I assume the short wheel base makes them more sensitive.  I can't work out what the early discos had, there appears to be something in the line but only attached to the rear circuit.  The Ibex is 2.5m so pretty much the same as disco.

  5. Thanks for the info Ralph, @western, its difficult to tell  off those manual outlines.  I think mines the combination valve as it bears the closest resemblance in shape but it doesn't have a brake press switch fitted in the middle at the top and mines mounted opposite hand .  My part number is NTC8836.  

    The master cylinder has 2 outlets, one goes direct to N/S front wheel, the other goes to the bias valve. The rear brake outlet goes to the bias valve.  other go in to the bottom port, front lhs.  The outlet then come off the top with the lhs going to the front O/S.

    I think I figured this out from the vehicle it originally came off but can't find my pics.

    @miketomcat contemplating your option as a safe one for getting passed, just need to make replacement lines which will be a pita with everything now fitted.

    A43B5320-5EB0-42E0-A764-ED2907441E45.heic

  6. Morning all,

    Need a bit of help.  The Ibex went through his first IVA inspection last week and the rear wheel brake loads were low when tested (downrated my tow capacity to 2.2 Te).  From memory everything is either new or I've refurbished it apart from the brake bias valve.  Given inspector was surprised at how good front brakes are and the brake balance across the axles was good I suspect the bias valve has some issues.  I originally installed it in my donor vehicle when I upgraded the rear brakes to disks and then swapped it into the Ibex.  However I can't remember how I confirmed the piping was all connected correctly and. want to make sure I don't have something hooked up wrong.  Searched for pics and connection information but the manuals don't appear to show it.  I

    If anyone has this information could you send me a link or alternatively your best fag packet sketch and a photograph please?  

    Many thanks.

  7. From memory there is a plug on the injector pump to unscrew to prime the injection pump which you do using the lift pump.  Then crack the unions to the injectors and turn over engine until fuel comes out.  Tighten them and then try starting the engine.  Once running it should bleed itself through but if you've got one missing just work down the injectors cracking them til fuel comes out.

     

  8. I had a similar problem with mine only mine would run away if I didn't turn it off.  As mentioned above the pumps are design to open at maximum fuel as the engine spins up the governor comes into play and start controlling the engine speed.  All these internals are steel so if you've left the engine for a while the small amount of moisture in the fuel can cause these internals to corrode.  Even when you think its in a nice dry shed.

    Had mine rebuilt by local diesel specialist, now looks like new.

    Also worth a check what are the injector nozzles like?  if they're worn you won't get a good pattern and that'll probably generate smoke.  The holes in the tip of the injector should be barely visible with naked eye.  if you can see them then they're probably worn and worth considering replacing.

    Where about are you based?

  9. Remember when tapping you want to use a cutting fluid.

    When tapping use one full turn clockwise followed by half a turn back to break the cuttings, followed by full turn etc.

    Make sure you take the tap far enough through the workpiece to run clear of any taper on the tap.

    I'd then degrease the thread and apply some locktite before inserting the helical.

    • Like 2
  10. Helicoil will be fine, however have a good look a the thread form and make sure that is at fault first.  So if you can tighten the bolt up to the specified torque then I would suggest there is a problem with the thread form and as Reb says give it a drop of loctite.

    If you end up helicoiling it then its easiest to get a kit which will have everything you need for the job; drill, tap, inserts and tool. A drop of cutting fluid won't go amis when it comes to tapping and you'll probably need to find a tap wrench.

     

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