marsie

After a trip to manchester airport on sunday i noticed spots of oil on my rear window further investigation showed a pin hole in the ace pipe that runs along the front crossmember.It has about 18" of rubber hose swaged onto the steel pipe that joins to the pump banjo and the leak is in the rubber section.So i wondered if anyone else had had this problem and is there an easy fix other than replacing the whole(one piece) pipe to the valve block,which looks a nightmare I was thinking of cutting the steel pipe on the straight part and fitting a 10mm compression joint and then getting a new flexi made up at a local hydraulic hose company.Is there any reason why this shouldnt work?? Paul

not been on difflock recently.Hows your build going?? As Jake says,simex are good off road but wear down visibly on road ,you could save the amount it would cost you for a second set of tyres in the replacement cost of 1 and a bit simex????? worth considering? Paul

They round off the corners really quick on the road,if you are doing 10000miles a year i would try and get a set of road tyres.When i was using my car everyday i got a set of white 8 spokes with 33" cheapy all terrains for road use(only cost £300 brand new for the set with wheels!!!) Paul

,yes apparently there were a couple of us running 36"tyres that got through the measurement but one guy had some new 35s and only just got in Paul

another mod that some people do is cut every other centre lug off(on 36"et2s) this gives a more open pattern like the 35".But i just cant bring myself to attack a £200+ tyre with the cutter Paul B) bit like this

i have run 36" extreme trekkers for a few years now and have been impressed with them but overall they dont measure any higher than 35" simexs.They even fitted club off roads 35" tyre limit tool a few years ago Paul

My first event was a RTV at (i think) holymoorside near chesterfield in about 1989,was before i could drive legally on the road and in a borrowed series 2.Did carp .My first big challenge event was the bulldog trophy at morebattle in 2004,and have been hooked(and skint) ever since Paul

I use a gwyn lewis anchor,that has taken some serious abuse over the last 5 years.Adjustable blade pitch for various surfaces but f***ing heavy(not that i have to run about with it ) Paul

cheers Chris,thanks for the advice Happy new year mate,tell Saley his cheque is on its way Paul

i agree with Carl,i currently have 36" simex tyres fitted and could probably go up to 37/38" but that would be all.Any bigger would require either the front axle moving forward or some major mods to the bulkhead outriggers.Either way would be a lot of work but worth considering if you are planning really big tyres Paul

my richards chassis,north off road version(the one used in the richards adverts in the mags) uses gigglepin rear arms and extended rear a-frame made by p&p.The rear a frame crossmember and radius arm mounts are in the standard position but cos the arms are 7" longer they take the wheelbase upto 100" Paul

thanks for the info guys will give them a try next week and thanks Mark for your offer,unfortunately cos i drive a V8 it would cost more to fetch than buy new Paul

i am after some chequerplate or similar for my trayback,where is the best place to buy in sheets? preferably in sheffield area Paul

Basically i warmed the workshop upto about 10degrees(thermostat on heater) then painted the panels.Then did some other work on the car for a couple of hours.the paint was dry enough to handle the panels after this time.The heat was then turned off and the panels left for a couple of days without heat the guy at the paint shop told me that if you are using heat it needs to be constant to avoid getting a dried skin on top of wet paint.otherwise just paint in normal temp to get a uniform drying Paul

Ok,was told that the mask was suitable for only 1 or 2 resprays then chuck it away .Didnt get any fumes through it but i did use the extractor as well Paul

These guys- http://www.rotherhamrefinishing.co.uk/ Very helpful and good advice Paul

got it from rotherham vehicle refinishers.Got 2L paint,1L hardener and 5L tin of standard thinners and a twin filter charcoal respirator mask and altogether it cost £65,paint itself was £19 per litre.Upto now done bonnet,both doors,rear bulkhead,cab rear panel and screen surround and have used about 2/3rds of paint.Cant remember brand Paul

In the end i went for 2 pack and a mask.Got a quite good finish on the few panels i have done upto now and it dries really hard so should wear well Paul

Plasma 12 from Andy T,as a bonus comes in pretty colours too Paul B)

May give him a call,at least he will know what i am looking for unlike the guys at the local paint shop who always want to sell me some light reactive chromaflair chameleon sooper dooper paint at £1000 a litre Paul

Had experience spraying in the past but on commercial vehicles that arent gettin dragged through trees every time out but have only had mediocre results with brush painting.Never used acrylic except using rattle cans but that would cost me a fortune,how easy is acrylic to put on with a spraygun and how quick does it dry

last time i bought the blue for my doors i went to a place in rotherham.I got a 5 litre tin of Lechler cellulose which went on fine,got a good finish but a couple of weeks later i did an event and where the mud splattered the bodywork it ate into the paint spoiling the whole panel?? Paul

mmm i had a go at brush painting a car a few years ago but didnt have the patience to get a decent finish so i am going to go with spray painting,question is do i use cellulose,acrylic or 2 pack? Paul

While i am rebuilding my 90 i am going to give it a respray. So what would be the best paint for spraying at home/work.Want something hard wearing,quick drying and easy to apply.Dont have full extraction equipment but workshop is well ventilated Ta Paul

Early bath for us too,after Rab ploughed 1/2 a ton of clay into his engine bay and lost his steering . Paul