The Hatt

Coolio BTW – people like yourself keep saying about how people bust cranks and the like, but so far not a single person has actually managed to show an example of this. And after searching I can’t find an example either. Last night I started another thread about tdi failures and they all pretty much seem to be due to coolant leakage or similar. There was one crank failure but the owner admitted it was not a OEM crank. I’m not trying to defy or ignore any issues with the tdi motors, but based on what’s been posted here there isn’t a single scrap of evidence to show they have weak area’s. Please don’t take it the wrong way because I’m not disagreeing with you or anyone else. But in plain black and white there has been zero evidence posted, only supposition. Why shouldn’t it last? What basis is your claim that it will bust? Again it’s not that I’m disagreeing or dis-believing you but I don’t see anything but opinion based on no fact. To put another example, I know of people running supercharged LS1 V8’s producing about 500-550bhp up from a stock 350bhp all on stock internals an no major mods apart from the inclusion of the blower, tuning and exhaust mods. But the engine is fully capable of this. Back to the Golf, the same 90bhp motor is the basis of the factory 150bhp TDI motor. With the massive increase in power is this factory stock unit also likely to blow up? People chip these TDI’s to about 220bhp with no ill affects so why is it so unbelievable that nitrous won’t cause anymore harm? Or another example. A stock TDI has a TURBO and produces double the power of a 2.25 n/a diesel as found in the Series motors. So tuned to these extremes with that dangerous turbo setup surely stock TDI’s are for less reliable than the old 2.25? If you went back in time say early 60’s and said you wanted to run a turbo diesel direct injection diesel engine in a Land Rover most would have laughed at you stating that it would be too unreliable. Today we know different. Well I might have been over excited and over estimated expected power gains. But that aside I still believe nitrous can offer some sensible gains in performance. I’ve seen places selling hybrid water cooled turbo’s, different cams, ported heads for the tdi motors. These all cost a lot more than I’m looking at spending but claim to get near to 200bhp with the rest of the engine stock. A couple have posted in this very thread about the believe they could get 200bhp from a tdi. Nitrous is just a different answer to the same question. Even a 40hp gain will be very noticeable. So sorry if I’ve come across in not so good a light. But I’ll continue my research and post back results as and when.

if the water is that deep surely the water would have reached the engine from underneath or from the bonnet shut line? Do you compete in trials events? Some regulatory bodies don't allow vents on the bonnet for fire risk reasons. Apart from that a forward facing scoop will push air in and rear facing scoop should let air out. Not really sure how affective they would be though. Might just be worth adding some big electric fans to increase airflow thru the engine bay.

Anyone heard of a TD5 Series yet? I guess room under the bonnet might be an issue but sure it must be possible. Looking for ideas

There would be no real world benefit in running an intercooler on a n/a setup. The intercooler lowers the air intake temps as compression via the turbo causes heat as a by-product. In an n/a setup you should have much lower air intake temps anyway, even more so if ducted from outside the engine bay. But adding an intercooler would reduce air intake velocity way too much and likely result in less power overall. As to running a TDI without a turbo, well I can understand that a LHD vehicle may cause issues but surly to fit a tdi and remove the turbo is a heck of a lot of work for next to no gain in performance and likely only a partial gain in mpg. Wouldn't fitting either a 2.5 n/a diesel or petrol engine from an early 90/110 be easier. Also you could LPG the petrol engine or even a standard 2.25 petrol.

Personally I feel the TD5 is a better engine than the tdi unit. Yes I know it has an ECU but it's proven to be reliable and produce good power. If you plan to buy a a few performance upgrades then the TD5 is easily the best route. Down sides, the electronic throttle on the TD5 is not to everyone's taste. BMW own the rights to the engine so one may ponder what parts availability in years to come will be like. Other things to note, the Discovery 2 has a Watts linkage at the rear and no centre diff lock. You can fit a centre diff lock but I believe only on some model years. The traction control is good but there is a reason the Defender had traction control and a centre diff lock. A late model 300tdi Discovery 1 is more of an old school Land Rover and very easy to do anything on at home. Discovery 2 is similar but more of a modern electronics box. I'd say D2

Imperial ratings like that don't give sidewall height. I run 34.11.50R15's on 15x10 rims. I think they are equivlent to 290/90R15 or something. Wider rims reduce steering lock however. I know 35.12.50's ask for 10" wide rims but loads and loads of people run them on 8" rims rightly or wrongly. lower profile and yep you're probably bang on though.

There a several different kits depending on taste and budget. Generally the more you spend the better it's probably liekly to be. Lifting can cause pinion angle issues I believe and propshaft vibrations. I'm currently researching several setups. Llama 4x4 and X-Eng sell some interesting stuff that's probably worth a look. Cheviot 4x4 also have IMO a nice setup. Then look at the regulars at the lower end like the Britpart, GAZ or Pro Comp kits. Most LR mags will have loads of kits in it. Paddock Spares, John Craddock, MM4x4 and others spring to mind as advertisers in the mags. Old Man Emu seem to have a good reputation too.

Standard LR rims are 16 x 7 I think so should be fine. Don't think 16 x 8 would look all that different if I'm honest. If you think you may want to up the tyre size later on the 16 x 8's will offer more choice. Guys in the US will run 35.12.50's on that size rim.

eh? Don't really follow. Carbs work and work well. It also make wiring very simple and easy. Not saying they are the best, but I've run loads of vehicles on carbs and never had any real problems. The carb kit is offered by General Motors, the manufacturers of the engine. Sure they might have some idea about getting it to work.

Yeah seems its a bit too much work and going beyond my comfortable knowledge base. I'm not really wanting to pioneer a Jag V8 conversinon but would rather follow a succesful formula someone else has tried. Looking at what is possible I have no doubt you could get it running, but I don't have the money or time to buy a V8, gearbox, wiring loom, Megasquirt, exhaust, fuel requirements. Someone to fit it or help me fit it and then do a load of R&D for months just trying to get it to start and run. Ls1 fiarly easy. GM offer a carb kit and I know of others that run Megasquirt on them. Also seems adapters can be bought to mate to a LT230. Shame if I did this I couldn't run at ARC events.

Hi there A - All Discovery 1 chassis' are eseentially the same regardless of engine. B - Lift how? Suspension, body or both? The higher you lift the more problems you will encounter as a rule. Also why do you want to lift it (not that its a bad thing, but a lift may not be the best answer depending on the question). C - Personally don't like k&n filters. The allow more airflow by reduced filtering and then clog up quicker than paper filters and then flow worse. Depending on the fab work you want to do you could fit either air boxes. I'd check Ebay or a LR breakers and try and buy the bits you need however. Hope this helps

COOL :D Very interested...... Do you know are any of them running manual transmissions?

Excuse me but I thought I asked about how strong the engine was. And THIS is the research. :rolleyes: But I've already posted this information a couple of times.... Ok this is kinda responding to my question, although to make more sense of this I need examples of the failures and reasons as to why. If someone's ragged a tdi and never serviced it for 10 years and over 100,000 miles then a cambelt failure can hardly be blamed 100% on poor design. In my personal experience I know of only a single tdi failing - mine!!! But we belive it was caused by incorrect timing of the Zeus timing gears it had (fitted by previous owner) I then tweaked the pump which probably speeded up the envitable. The info about cranks is good. But again a few examples would be nice. Was it limited to some years, all years. Where the failures more common on vehicle modified to rev higher or on totally stock ones???? First off insurance isn't an issue. 2nd LPG has already been discussed. This is all good and to be honest I find it interesting too. :lol: Essentially I don't know the specifics, I gave up after finding so little info. There was good info on some of the Cobra replica forums. Main issues seemed to be the factory ECU was also incorportaed into the gearbox. I know there are companies that fill fit the Jaguar V8 into Series 3 XJ's and MK2 Jags but I think they take the whole thing. In a Land Rover there's also the transfer box and the fact that I really wanted a manual. I spoke to Ashcrofts about what LR gearbox would most likely hack the torque from the Jag 4.2 V8. But from my reading it appears you would need to have a flywheel made for the V8 to attach to a manual. There where some other issues raised concerning the use of Megasquirt. I think ultimatley it should be possible, but no one (including people using it) seem to know the ins and outs of getting it to work. This is beyond me as I've never used Megasquirt. Seriously, if you know of a way to get the Jag V8 running on Megasquirt and a way of getting it mate to a manual gearbox for sensible money I'd ditch the idea of nitrous on the tdi. I still personally think the LS1 is better V8 but the Jag unit has the virtue that it could be used at ARC events as Land Rover use the same engine.

If you've had a 200 or 300Tdi engine failure could you please provide some info: -Nature of the failure, as in what failed -Cause of the failure if known -Remedy to the failure if one was available Please could we try and keep this thread on topic thanks.

Just a word about insurance engines. Renewal quotes are always higher than new business. Might be worth trying a new quote with your current ensurer.

Thanks for the info. Never once said a road going only. Spends lots of time off road, mostly green lanes, in the fields and trialling.

Becuase I've stripped and rebuilt a Triumph TR7 from a stock 2.0 FHC to a 3.5 Rover V8 with different suspension, axle, transmission, modded motor custom interior and exterior. Last time it was on the rollers it was making a tad under 200whp. I've also swap the engine over in my Discovery as I blew the original up. Restored a MGB GT and used to work in the aero industry overhauling light aircraft props and engines. No I don't think I'm a good mechanic as I know there are loads of people better than I. Also I moved house last year and no longer have a driveway or a workshop as I did previously, the road I live on is fairly narrow and fairly busy and not suitable to do an engine swap on. I also suffer from back injury which prevents me from performing some mechanical work that I was previously able to do. So to perform an engine swap it would require more than just me to do it. Fitting nitrous is a bottle in boot, some nylon tubing, drilling the intake manifold and fitting a solenoid. Fairly low key stuff to un-plumbing an entire motor ripping it out and installing another one. 1. WOT = Wide Open Throttle. It's not a thing but an action. 2. NOS is a brand and manufacturer same as Hoover or Selotape. I think it because people having been running nitrous on a multitude of engines for years and when used in sensible moderation and proper installation are proven to work. As for the tdi itself. Well again that was the whole point of this thread. Trying to find the weaknesses in the tdi motors. NEVER once have I asked is nitrous the route to go. They may very well, but time will tell. This doesn't make sense. Any car can produce more power and usually easily and cheaply too. But for the very vast majority out there they don't. This logic simple doesn't stand. 5th Gear took a 90bhp diesel automatic Golf and fitted a nitrous kit to it. Then proceeded to race a Honda NSX, fair do in the vid the Golf lost but it kept with the NSX to about 100mph. That kit cost just over $1k to fit, but how many people do you know of that have diesel auto hatchbacks with near supercar performance credentials. It's easy, it's cheap yet few seem to do it. So how do these guys with tweaked 3.9 V8's get away with it, or even a standard 4.6 making 225bhp?

Look thanks for posting and all. But seriously this kind of internet miss-information causes more trouble than it's worth not to mention it takes treads further off topic than needed. All I said was WOULD a tdi block handle 250-300bhp. As I intended to try and run upto a 100 shot of nitrous on it. However in later posts I've explained that I would be starting with a 25 shot. So where in the f'ing smeg do you get 600bhp from!

Still the friendly forum I see.... I mention it because twice you've posted about me building a Land Rover to beat people at the traffic light grand prix's. This isn't the case because I have something much better for it and was simply pointing it out. And BTW how do you know I'm not a lady Well ok how much is your time? But seriously, I don't have a driveway at present or a workshop and doing a major engine swap outside on the road would be illegal and stupid. Not too mention a lack of electricity and other resources. 1. Yes the kit is about that, if I want a bottle warmer, progressive controller and installation it will cost more. However to start with I can manage without the bottle warmer (only £120 or so) and the progressive controller and intend to fit it myself. 2. Fuelling has already been tweaked and the Bosch injector pump has more tweaking ability with the smoke screw and other controls. WON also have a device which can replace the smoke screw to allow higher fuelling when the nitrous is activated. 3. Already got a bigger intercooler, although as I understand it nitrous is something like -128 when injected so I a guess this may not be so critical anyhow. 4. Was the whole point of this thread - NEED SOME HELP identifying the weak spots on the tdi engines. Where and how have people broken them. So far not a single post has pointed me at an example of where a piston has failed, a head cracked or anything. I've just had speculation and people telling me I'm pissing in the wind and should buy a V8. Not want more torque, but it will likely produce more torque. Don't care about bragging numbers it it probably won't go on a dyno so won't ever know what they are. As for usable power curve, well tdi's make peak power @ 4000rpm and peak torque @ 1800rpm. So if I can increase to torque over that rpm range which I believe nitrous will do it will be very usable. Well I reckon the current fuelling will be fine for at least a 25 shot and possibly a 50 shot. Running Simex 33" tyres (measure 34" tall) as a daily driver it offers a minimal of 24mpg average. I say minimal becuase the odometer is miles out due to the tyres, it may well be averaging nearer 28mpg. This is with a full width intercooler, upped turbo boost and tweaked injector pump. With the nitrous installed and OFF it will run 100% the same as it does now with the same mpg. At WOT with the nitrous on then depending on the shot it will use the same fuel as now but also nitrous. Only extra running cost is the nitrous. WON also offer a device which replaces the smoke screw and ups the fuelling with nitrous activated. In this example it would probably use less fuel than now with the nitrous OFF and more fuel with it on when at WOT. So it would probably use more diesel, but only when using nitrous which won't be all the time, just as and when I want to use it or its needed. I have no intent of breaking the engine and will not be doing this for the benefit of others so I simply post back it broke at this level. I am however looking to increase power/torque via a different method on a limited budget to the equipement I already have with the hope of out performing other methods. Out performing means total cost, ease of modification as well as acceleration and driveability. Sure if I had the money, ability, time and resources I'd probably buy a TD5 and fit all the Twisted Performance aftermarket tuning parts to it in the hope of seeing 200-220bhp and still retaining mid 20's mpg. But having looked into this I deem it a more complex, difficult and ultimately more expensive route for me to go. The same follows for a V8 and I simply don't want/can't afford to use it if it only averages sub 20mpg all the time not just highway style driving. And to be honest I first started on this train of thought buy looking at fitting a Jaguar 4.2 V8 to a Defender but after some research it appeared that I could find no one who had done this and that getting the Jaguar V8 to run without its ECU is very very difficult even more so if you want a manual gearbox, which ideally I do. I then looked at a LS1 powered Defender. But after pricing this up decided that to do it properly was far too expensive. So I then looked at making the most out of what I already have on a more modest and realistic budget.

Thanks, lots of info and lots of help, however has also equalled lot more questions and some confusion on my part. Aim is increased ride height mostly for looks, but less tyre rubbing and of course increased clearance (well not the axles but better approach/descent angles etc.). But yes I would be looking for more flex and droop too. But nothing excessive just an improvement over stock. I like the sound of the Rough Country shocks, partly because they have a great reputation State side with LR’s, Jeeps and Bronco’s and I’ve also heard nothing but good reports on them here in the UK. I’ve spoken to someone about supplying them, think they may be +2 and the correct shock rate for a tdi Disco (what ever that may be). However I don’t won’t to/can’t run dislocation cones to account for the extra downward wheel travel (droop) so want a fully retained spring top and bottom. I’ve seen longer springs available from Maxtraction, but I can’t believe the price increase over standard length springs. I know guys in Aus running longer springs but I don’t know where I can buy them here in the UK. As for poundage, got me I’m not clever enough to work this out. Do you have a link to LR90/Trev’s website? Thanks Also interested in the LR AntiRattle plates. I’m not familiar with these, any chance of some more info on them or somewhere that sells them. Thanks.

Thanks Will report back once kit is installed, although won't be four a few months most likely as i have a diff and front axle to rebuild first.

Looking at adding a small lift kit to my Disco 1. But would like to gain some extra droop as well. Not interested in running dislocation cones and would rather stick with spring retainers (believe this is popular in Aus and the US). I've found the new shock mounts I want to run, and the spring retainers. Also found some nice Rough Country shocks which are longer than stock. But what I can't find are longer springs???? Anyone help? It's to fit a 1990 200TDI Discovery 3 door. Would be wanting to attain a 1-2" lift in the process and allow enough spring extension to keep them retained top and bottom.

What sort of lift kit are you running on your Discovery 1's? Looking for pics & opinions Remeber to include kit or spring/shock make & model and how high the lift is

See WON But how much are these? £500 quid? Plus at present I have nowhere to do an engine swap so would have to pay someone to do it or hire somewhere. Then there’s still the mpg issue. And after that money on Megasquirt or a carb setup and exhaust and fuelling. I’m not a against V8’s AT ALL – I’m a total petrol head. But I honestly believe for the vast majority of people (which includes me) swapping out a tdi for a V8 will cost more money to achieve and run than what I am proposing to do. I have a 350bhp muscle car capable of topping 160mph. Ok…… No denying modern technology can improve efficiency. However I still don’t believe a 3.9 RV8 is as economical as a 2.5 TDI in the same vehicle. Yes its very clever. However I first drove a LS1 in 1998 and have been involved with them ever since. Never ever heard of a LS1 having it. As far as I know GM have not and have no intention on using this technology on there performance vehicles (Fbody & Vette). I’m pretty sure some of the truck engines might have used something similar but only more recently. Truck engine are cast iron block versions of the LS with different cam and intake manifold. They are LQ4 and LQ9 depending on displacement. There is also a 5.3 LS4 found in some of GM’s fwd sedans. Ok but a 4.4 BMW V8 is only 280bhp. LS1 still better. But that aside fitting a BMW V8 to a tdi Land Rover will need a heck of a lot more work than you have stated. Apart from needing the ability, tools and somewhere to actually do the swap (which many people don’t have) You’d need to fab up engine mounts, attach it to the transmission somehow or buy something to fab in that works with the engine. Some sort of ECU control, Megasquirt is certainly an option but has it been used on this engine before? I know the Jaguar V8 has proved problematic. Then we have exhaust and exhaust manifolds Cooling Heating And so on. YES YES YES I believe it can be fitted and working on a modest budget, but unless you are a gifted mechanic with appropriate mechanically inclined mates and are able to get stuff cheap it really isn’t a viable option for most. If you disagree then how about a deal. I bring over my Disco tdi with a £1000 cash and we can successfully swap in a modern V8 and get it running and running good with all the parts needed. I’m serious here, doing a swap like this is beyond what I consider my ability and budget at this time, but if its really doable for the ease and cost you proclaim I WANT IT! umm not too sure about this. Pretty sure the turbo wouldn’t be kicking in until over 2000rpm or higher. Stock is only 197bhp @ 6100rpm and 171 lb ft @ 2100. Of course it can be tuned to produce more, but at low rpms a tdi is still going to make more torque.

Thanks