africanpete

OOps Should of read post properly, I was on about a D2. This is exactly why I said you need someone helping you that has done this before, it's very easy to miss read a tip that someone has given you and then it can all go wrong. Anyways, apologies for the misinformation. Pete

No offense intended here, but I think you should recruit a fellow club member that has done this before and is local to you to give you a hand, renewing brakes is very straight forward but you must know what you are doing or you are just asking for trouble. To answer your questions, no, you don't have to remove the hub or half shaft, you will only need seals for the pistons on the calipers, it's worth doing these while the calipers are off as they are not expensive, BUT, you must know what you are doing! Sorry to come across as negative, that's not my intention, I have a thing about brakes. Pete

Hmmm, alot of mixed comments here, and I'm going to add to them. My vehicle is a D2 TD5, I recently replaced the disks and pads with an EBC set up - The disks in my opinion are brilliant, they are vented and dimpled and grooved (not cross drilled) which have a similar effect to fully drilled disks only they are stronger and not prone to cracking between the holes, for a LR these are more than you will ever need, even fully loaded. They are of a superior metal quality to the cheaper disks and are even balanced (Not that you'd notice this) plus, they're made over here in the UK. I can tell you that no mud/crud builds up in the dimples or grooves as is generally perceived to be the problem with fully drilled disks, I have had these covered in all sorts of mud/muddy water and they cleaned up quickly and didn't lose any braking effeciency, obviously, gunk gets into the vented part of the disk, but this will happen to any OE vented disk. My OE disks quickly got scratched when I went playing in the mud but the EBC's are still good, maybe I'm lucky As for the pads, well, I'm not intirely sure about them, will only be able to tell once I've eliminated all other potential problems i.e. caliper rebuild, SS brake lines. The reason I say this is because I too have experienced the break fade mentioned in some of the posts ( very randomly) but as I said above, need to check some things out first before I slate the pads. If you are going to go for them, go for the green stuff, all the other colours are for track/fast road cars and require alot of warming up/beating to get them to work properly, I don't know, maybe you drive your LR like a racer I don't know why someones pads on here came without the rubber backing but mine had them and they don't squeal, a good clean and a bit of copper slip here and there when fitting and it's fine. Also, these pads drastically reduce break dust, and it's a pleasure washing the wheels. If you compare the cost of EBC and a good quality set up there really is'nt that much difference, also, if your'e going the whole hog you may as well change your brake lines for some SS ones, these alone will give you better feel and performance. Sorry for the ramble, BTW , I know buggerall about whether these will fit on wolff wheels or if you can change your disks for vented without changing the calipers Later Pete

Welcome from another newbie, good post! Guess what I'll be doing this weekend? checking the bushes on my TD5!

Thanks Martin I'll send you a PM with more details. Later Pete

Hi Martin Is your trip still on? We are also going in July, perhaps we could tag along for some of the way. We planned to go for about two weeks leaving around the 7th/8th. Nothing much planned yet but apart from all the exploring we would like to spend a few nights camping and the rest in hotels / B&B's, how many of each is entirely dependant on how we feel at the time. Pete