africanpete

Thanks gents, will check out both and get back to you guys

Hi landmannn, it idles fine, its only when I'm driving along and change gears that the revs stay at what ever they were when I pressed the clutch, its only for a second or two and then they come back down, but it happens at every gear change. The transmission also feels really tight, as if it doesnt want to allow the engine to accelerate

Hi Hoping someone will know the solution to this and can offer some guidance... History I recently fitted a transfer case with diff lock to my D2 (wasnt standard on mine). Never actually used it because I was waiting for Ashcrofts to finalise there diff lock linkage. After not too long got the linkage and decided to drop the gearbox out (again) and fit a new spigot bush and rear crank seal as I noticed they were worn when I first installed the t-case but wasnt in a position to change them at the time. To say I struggled to get the gearbox out and installed again is an under statement, not an easy job when youre on your own! Now prior to taking it out i had done around 1000miles without any problems, apart from the sticky bush but whilst putting it back (man handling) it I must of flicked the little diff lock lever over and not realised, anyway I drove it like that for about 100miles at speeds up to 50mph before I realised what I had done and as a result was experiencing stiff steering and general clunking when changing gears or pumping the loud pedal. Current problem Replaced all uj's and the hookes bearing on my prop (part of my vehicle prep maintenance plan) and before I installed the difflock linkage I thought I would test drive it so made sure it was out of difflock, fitted front prop, drove it, no problems at all. Come back, my manual says I need to remove front prop to fit linkage and without asking why, I do it. Fit the linkage and then struggle to get the adjustment just right. After a couple of hours of not getting anywhere on the adjustment front I decide its a job for another day so re-fit prop, make sure its out of difflock and take it for a drive but now its holding revs when I change gears and feels really tight I'm sure its out of diff lock but not sure what I've done wrong this time, please help if you can, sorry for the long story. Pete

Brilliant idea Mark, I have a feeling this is going to become a very popular thread.

Thanks Mark and Ben, good links

Nice install Mark, whats the noise like? I like your fuse block, where did you get it, what make etc. Pete

LOL, been there my friend and I have to sympathise with you as I too have a carp one! I sometimes dream of a toy..oops!

Hmm, would this happen if you had a webasto diesel heater or the likes?

Just wanted to know if you had experienced any problems as time went by, but really I cant think how the silicone could cause a problem anyway. Cheers Pete

Silicone sounds like a good idea, might give it a go. Peasey, how long since you first did this? Cheers Pete

At this time Ashcrofts can only supply you with the parts that go in the T-case, they are currently developing a gear linkage incl. lever as these are no longer available from LR and they are very rare second hand. Cipx2, thanks for the link and advice, for some reason I cant log in to my D-web account, could you PM the pics please Cheers Peter

Thanks cipx2, I take it thats from LR? Cheers Pete

I believe that the early D2's came with diff lock as standard with it then becoming an option from around 2001/2 onwards, something to do with the TC? The T cases found on D2's could be grouped as: Full diff lock - diff lock parts in case but without linkage to lever and then what I had, no diff lock and no linkage. Does anyone know where I can get hold of a wiring diagram for the gearbox/transfer case loom, hoping it will be relatively straight forward to get the switches connected. Cheers Pete

Hi Have just fitted a new transfer case (with diff lock) to my 03 D2 that came without diff lock as standard! I can't seem to find the wiring plugs that connect onto the switches on the T-case, I thought that all the looms were standard for the D2's regardless of what equipment was fitted but as it turns out I thought wrong, or half wrong as I've found other wiring for switches etc that I have used Does anyone know if the wires are tucked away somewhere or if it is possible to add/buy the missing section of loom? Any other ideas welcome Cheers Pete

Nice pics guys, glad you all had a good time Pete

Well, I'm also bailing Have just been offered 2 tickets to Twickenham for SA v England that weekend Couldnt get a room for the one night anyway, hotel said they only had "two night" rooms left Still hoping to meet up with you guys sometime Enjoy Pete

Will my AT's do for the laning or will I have to sling on my muds? Pete

Hi Is anyone from the South driving up on Saturday? I'm in Kent and plan to leave early on Saturday morning, convoy opportunity if anyone wants to join in What time and where are we all meeting on Saturday morning? Cheers Pete

I've heard that all wiring looms on TD5's are the same, apparently this was done by LR to standardise and generally make things easier and cheaper. Mine is a "S" and certainly has all the extra plugs, only things missing are the switches and where applicable the ECU's. Pete

Don't kid yourself it's only a matter of time before you'll be sporting a nice 2" lift, they'll fit then, ask me how I know... Pete EDIT: Just realised you're still going to use the spacers, which I'm not using so my post is probably not that accurate, however, I still can't see a problem.

I'm still in and £19 with it possibly going down to £9 sounds very good to me! Martin, hope all goes well and you can still make the trip. Sorry, can't help on the local lane knowledge or the lead vehicle thing, carp at both. Pete

I agree with all the comments above and it looks like you have 3 choices: 1, Accept the floor as it is now but this will bug you when it finally becomes your workshop 2, Go with bishbosh's epoxy repair mortar, will probably be the easiest option as can be almost self levelling. 3, Go with at least a 40-50mm screed with some light mesh re-inforcement. You would'nt have to screed over the new slab as you could set this to the height of the screed but I have to say that unless you have screeded before you will probably get a similar finish on the screed as you got on the original concrete, laying screed flat is not easy (no dis-respect intended) plus this is not an ideal floor for a workshop. I think that both options 2 and 3 are going to be expensive but I think the epoxy will be easier and better suited to a workshop/garage environment, remember that most/all workshop or warehouse floors are polished or floated concrete slabs, thats's why they last. You can't go wrong with this ^ Pete

Bolts with a resin/chemfix as Les said will work just fine, you could also use normal re-bar/dowls, also secured with a type of quick setting resin just make sure you drill them in deep enough, 2" to 4". If this slab extension is going to be at all load bearing then the usual steps apply i.e virgin soil, compacted sub-base, DPM etc. For a better bond you could scabble the face of the existing slab just to give the new concrete a better key. Peter

If you are going to use a vibrating poker, don't leave it in the same spot for too long, just long enough to make sure the concrete has been able to get into all the voids but stop just before too much of the water comes to the surface as this will weaken the top layer of the concrete. With an 80 slump you shouldn't really need a poker, a good tamp should do it. Make sure youre down to virgin soil (natural solid layer of earth) before you lay your aggregate otherwise whatever aggregate/concrete you put down will sink with time and if youre putting heavy machinery in the workshop that shouldnt take too long. A damp proof membrane (DPM) is definately needed, you could just go for a heavy guage polythene, maybe 1200 guage? This should be laid over blinding ( a layer of clean soft sand put over the hardcore base to stop any penetration from your hardcore) And as already said, I think you should have at least a layer of 50mm insulation, this is for comfort and energy effeciency more than anything else, make sure that what ever type you go for it designed to be used under concrete as they're not all the same. Lastly, make sure everything is prepared before the concrete wagon arrives as it is a busy time, also make sure that you have cubed up the area correctly, there is no scope for error in your calculations as you will either have to take what concrete is left over or pay to have it taken away, both of those can be a PITA. The driver will also want to wash down his chute so make sure there is somwhere for him to do this, he has water on board, just get hold of some cheap polythene that you can lay down somewhere before he starts washing down, that way it's easier to clean up. Protect any paving lawns etc, concrete gets everywhere!!! Sorry for the story, only wanted to tell you about the poker when I started this

Ah ha! what a good idea. I do have tree sliders just need to check if my straps will handle the weight. Thanks David