Jump to content

Ohlins

Settled In
  • Posts

    62
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation

1 Neutral

Profile Information

  • Location
    SWest French Pyrenees

Recent Profile Visitors

571 profile views
  1. First start up just to see that it works......we'll find a water hose routing solution next.....we're thinking it should not be up to full power when we test drive due to the different pistons, injectors and fuel pump calibration but we'll see and report back. We should give it a whirl this weekend.
  2. Yip......I too have that set up on my 200tdi Disco engine in my Defender, with a 200tdi head, that is. Really hard to find a 200tdi head here in France at present and Frederick needs the Disco for the Rallye des Cimes and others here as he's clerk of the course. All the best .
  3. My friends 200tdi cylinder cracked in the usual place between the valves. He couldn't find an other cylinder head and as I have parts here we decided to give it a whirl to show others our findings when we put on a 300tdi cylinder head without changing out pistons. We couldn't find anyone else on the internet who had chronicled it. If it all goes horribly wrong we don't care......it's only a 30 yr old engine on a 30 yr old Land Rover. I'll list what parts are required at the end along with some mention as we go along... 200tdi cylinder head that was leaking water. I had a 300tdi head kicking about so as you can see the distance between the valves is further apart than on the 200tdi. We set about cleaning the dusty head that's been in the workshop with copious amounts of brake cleaner..... We will need the rocker assembly too..... We cleaned off the block as best we could in readiness for the head to be fitted, scraping off any left over gasket material........ We put on a new cylinder head gasket and mount the head.......we torque down first to 40Nm then continue two tightening sequences at sequence at 60 degrees.....each flat on a bolt is about 60 degrees hence the marker pen marks. 300tdi pistons have a different combustion chamber to the 200tdi pisttons......so there should not be a perfect burn pattern going on. We'll see what it drives like later. 300tdi pistons...... 200tdi pistons....... You'll need the 300tdi rocker assembly and injectors.....glow plugs are the same as are the pushrods.....the 200tdi valve stem caps will work if you haven't lost any down into the pushrod holes. The first goofy thing you'll find is the hard fuel lines from the injection pump need to be 300tdi....17mm same size to tighten as with the 200tdi, but the thread is different.... You'll also need to take off the connectors that keep the fuel pipes together and parallel. You'll be pulling and bending same to make them fit. Once we set the valve clearances and put on the rocker cover the next goofy thing we found was that the water heater tube was fouling the connection of the water temperature sender which meant the tube would not pass......after tightening the sender gingerly the tube was able to pass.....so no need for a 300tdi inlet manifold. You'll also need the 300tdi rocker cover breather canister and the thermostat housing.....after that it's ready to go apart from rummaging about for some water hoses to connect the water pump and heater.
  4. Or you can buy them ready made....... https://www.steveparkers.com/product/engbkts300-weld-on-chassis-engine-mounting-brackets-300tdi-4cyl-v8-chassis/ :)
  5. I had bookmarked how this was to be carried out from the LRO website ages ago but it disappeared when the forum shut down. By coincidence I found a printed copy in an old drawer so here it is.... 1. Buy the civilian light switch and disconnect the battery before starting. 2. There's a plastic cover behind the steering wheel. Remove that and fit the new switch. The switch has three wires (blue, brown and red) to a connector. Leave this dangling for now. 3. The wiring for the civilian light switch is already present lying about behind the speedo panel. It has the corresponding connector and the same three colours of wire. Sometimes it can be found by removing the plastic switch panel that houses the hazard flasher switch. 4. Carefully thread the connector through to appear above the steering column and to avoid cable pinching. 5. Push the two halves of the connector together. The lights (side,tail and headlamps) are now operational. 6. Open up the panels around the 6 way military switch. Disconnect the two wires (brown and black) that go to the small power connectors next to the switch. These are just push fit and just pull off. The brown is live. 7. The back of the military switch is covered by a big rubber boot normally. No need to open that up. 8. The wires attached to the 6 way switch are connected to the vehicle wiring by a single connector. Unplug it. The entire 6 way switch can then be lifted away. ( note, the plug can be very stiff to pull apart and might need a lot of force) 9. There are several wires that come out of the vehicle bulkhead and go into the connector. Snip the two brown ones (plain brown and brown with a stripe) from the connector and safely connect them together. This needs doing well as these are quite hefty cables and are permanently live. 10. Snip the two green/purple wires and connect together. These wires supply the brake lights. Summary 1. Fit civilian switch and connect to existing connector behind speedo panel. 2. Remove military switch and undo connector 3. Join the two brown wires together and insulate connection. 4. Join the two green/purple wires together and insulate connection. There'll be a multitude of other wires lurking behind the 6 way switch. None are connected with this exercise. All the best 👍😁
  6. Or....... https://www.mudstuff.co.uk/products/mud-stuff/mud-defender-window-blinds.html .
  7. As Red90 states.....I'd go the 200tdi route if I were you.....I've had both and I don't see any difference in either engine. The 200tdi will bolt back to the LT77 box if you can source one? Uses standard engine mounting placement. Have a wee peep below for more details? Cheaper and faster with less hassle. https://www.lrukforums.com/threads/2-5-n-a-engine-swap-to-200tdi-or-300tdi-threads-and-opinions-please.246769/ .
  8. MTF 94 is the same spec as 10W40 semi synthetic engine oil.....buy that at half the price and use it....marketing comes into play again from Mr Land Rover .
  9. I concur.....exactly with your post. I couldn't have said it better myself here "But, do most heed the warning and buy OEM or Gen Parts? No, they keep chancing the carp because it's cheap. In doing that, they spend more in the long run, encourage that supplier to keep churning out rubbish, and contribute to the failure of the better quality suppliers who can't compete with the low prices, buggering the supply chain for all of us" Why would I not e.g. spend a couple of euros more on a Corteco seal to ensure I don't have to return to do the work again later by buying cheap seals? etc etc. In my instance I was able to see emailed pictures of the chassis and bulkhead etc etc which is clean as a whistle....I suspect my 110 had been dry stored for a good few years....and when the engine was to be reconditioned as part of the package that was a bonus. If I was told that my engine was a "lift out-drop in engine,of indeterminate mileage" I would still have bought it with a price adjustment as long as it was running. I have a great 300tdi engine stored that I know,so I was always of the opinion if it ran too lumpy later I could install that engine and work on the lumpy engine at my leisure. If he hadn't have said anything about the rear axle being stripped and reconditioned I'd have changed all the seals myself without a moment of thought...thats what axles do after being stored....they leak. The scamming dishonesty relative to the engine and the 'reconditioned rear' axle is what I'm highlighting,and if I were to go the route of a recon engine,if I didn't have an donor engine,I would recondition another donor engine myself. The Winter just past was spent reconditioning a 200tdi engine as an indoor project and I'm lucky that there's a good precision engineering outlet not too far from me that can do the head work etc. I always think of the people who don't have the experience or aptitude, e.g. the likes of my OAP Father,in these instances and where it'll cost them money to rectify any problems to make their purchase what it should've been from the beginning. .
  10. Good to let others know of a basic overlook....we've all done goofy things and will continue to do so. Thanks
  11. The Bearmach ones work fine in my experience. .
  12. ....and so it goes full circle for some...Get a cuppa for this one.... I bought a 110 from rovernuttz a while back operating under Land Rover Import dot com....It was supposed to have had a reconditioned 200tdi Disco engine it it. I wanted the LR for bringing in wood and for my son to drive. Traveled to pick it up. Upon arrival and starting I pointed out the water pump bearing was chirping. First warning sign. Requested list of parts put into the engine to prove it was reconditioned. He stated 'someone else did the work for me' and I'll get it for you later;OK I took it that he'd post the receipt after the other entity got it sorted as he said he would. (year and a half later I get it)..sort of. Truck was running fine apart from the pump and the chassis was as clean as it was when it came out fo the factory. Body very straight and bulkhead no rust at the usual spots. I also noticed he had straight water in the radiator and not coolant. Ho hum. He had a new radiator installed,stating he'd pinged the older one with a drill whilst installing the electric fan support surround. I of course had the choice to not to buy it but based on what I saw along with the promise of getting me a breakdown of the work to prove reconditioning. I drove it home via a LR parts place in Plymouth after I bought a pump in case it broke en route. Upon getting the LR home and after about 2weeks I spy front and rear crankshaft oil seal leaks and blue smoke on overrun....vazlve stem oil seals....I asked if the timing belt been done and he stated that it was. I could see silicon on the timing cover and wondered why a paper gasket wouldn't have been used,then thought perhaps it had been torn in fitting or something.The rear brake cover plate on one side had been replaced and the bolts not tightened. Of course when I arrived to pick the truck up he stated the rear axle had been reconditioned. On carrying out forum searches this seems to be a standers sales pitch also. A few weeks later I had to replace all the hub seals. Closer inspection also showed that the engine mountings had no nuts on them to keep the engine secure. The comical part of the whole affair was when I sprouted a radiator leak and upon inspecting I find that he had actually pinged the new radiator with he drill and cut a small square of plastic about 1cm square....put some glue on it and pushed it onto the hole. This was made even more ludicrous by the fact he sprayed it with silver alloy paint complete with overspray to hide it. Later when pulled on it,he stated a professional radiator repair company carried out the repair. Of course I stated that either the company,who he wouldn't give me the name of,did that unprofessionally or he as a business owner accepted it and that in itself illustrated his incompetence. Mentioning incompetence...he had also fitted the engine (with a 300turbo and inlet manifold) but didn't check to see if the steering column bolt touched or fouled anything..........of course one turbo later after the inlet hose had been rubbed though by the bolt as mentioned and had been sucking in dust.....a turbo was not offered when brought to his attention but a turbo seal kit. After frequent requests for same,even culminating with 'I thought I posted that to you' a year and a half later I get the seal kit as I do with the receipt. Receipt;This was made up by him and not the other entity ....and guess what?..of course there was no breakdown let along receipts of parts thrown at the engine...only a price. I pointed out that other companies supply a breakdown list of parts or list standard checks they carry out on their website. He stated that when he sends engines to the USA he never even gives a breakdown in that instance smiling that they never ask for it. I only received this later under the guise of selling the 110 and would need a receipt to prove to the new buyers that work had been done. I ask how does he ever know the work has been done and he stated he just accepts his suppliers word. Great. I stated that his supplier will have a breakdown of parts and to get it. In fact I eventually ask him if I was to sell the 110 I'd have to then advertise it as 'having a lift out drop in disco 200tdi engine of indeterminate mileage' and he agreed such. I also ask about how with about 2000kms on the motor that the front and rear seals leak if there were new seals fitted. He said they do that sometimes. I asked him later if he had installed the Steve Parker bolt kit at the bell housing to avoid flex and thus rear crankshaft oil seal leaks and he did not tell me if he had. Later he stated that if I drove the 110 back to the UK I could watch him take the engine apart and see what it was like inside. Of course he knew that such a ridiculous offer would cost me more to go and come back than another new engine. As for the LR leaks he stated that it could've been my fault as I was using the 110 for work and questioned whether I had it serviced properly. I could see the rhetoric one gets from a used car dealer coming to the fore; customer didn't do this or that blah blah,which doesn't overwrite the original problems... crank seals leaking after 2000kms etc and en engine that was no reconditioned. Later I ask him for the average difference in a second hand engine and that of a recon engine,approx £1200 to which he refused. Later I also pointed out that on his eBay adverts he stated that he never uses silicon ever in his rebuilds ....so that proves he never did the timing belt on mine. Things still to do....timing belt and seals and now I have to put a new clutch in it; He stated he checked it and it was fine,which it was until after 25000kms it slips..no problem with that..but one would question why would one not install a new clutch anyway before you put a 'lift out drop in engine' in to at least avoid the customer coming back after 1000kms or .......not. As an aside...if one looks at the copy of an 'experts report' he has posted above ..IMO based on having had access to same and how poor his grammar and written English is when one reads his website and eBay adverts......they all tally ...such as starting sentences without capital letters,where his own name is even without capital letters etc etc .I suspect that he has written that himself. This same poor diction and lack of basic capital letters and the fact that the 'expert witness',instead of stating in plain English after checking the engine e.g. 'To summarise,this in our opinion,is not a reconditioned engine' they write 'NOT a rebuilt engine in any stretch of the imagination' etc Expert Witness reports are not written in that style and have correct grammar. You'll also note that the date is hand written and with a squiggle for a signature?which can happen.What is required is a copy of Mr Thackery's signature and or a confirmation from his company that this is a true report to prove I'm wrong. One will also find that he states in his website that 'we' recondition engines.....it is a one man outfit with no certificates or diplomas etc on show. He is not to BS standard and not a member of the federation of engine builders......he operates from farm barns and outbuildings and when I picked my 110 he was being in the middle of being ejected form the outbuilding he was renting. There is no fixed telephone number with only a mobile number and he will only answer emails when its convenient for him to do so. The only fixed address that that I know of that he uses is student accommodation in Bristol rather than his outbuilding farm address. Who in business these days does not have a fixed number. He also prefers cash over anything else. He also is not a time- served mechanic by trade. If one carries out a search in the US forum using his user name here one can see what's what. He does not use his full name on Facebook and would be hard to find if one was looking for business but only uses 'Duncan James' rather than Duncan Goodchild etc I really should've known when he stated that LT77's gearboxes use EP90 ....... Trading standards have been informed. So,all that to say....pay the money and drive off in a properly recon engine from the federation of engine rebuilders .
  13. I bought my Land Rover LHD ex army off Duncan James Goodchild of Land Rover Import in Bristol,with what was stated to be a reconditioned 200tdi Disco reconditioned engine installed......I carried out a few mods of my own which I thought was better suited to me. Take care as the engine fitment was not checked,which resulted in the threads of the bolt of the steering UJ rubbing through the turbo air intake elbow resulting in a costly error due to dust ingress,after approx' one month. I then cut the exposed bolt threads flush with the corresponding nut on the UJ and the elbow shortened to allow the intercooler hose to move away further form the steering column. As can be seen 300tdi turbo and manifolds fit..I changed over to the Disco 300tdi air filter to turbo hose as this,by pure coincidence,reduces in diameter to squeeze past the brake servo. The other part of the hose where it joins the turbo also has the exact correct angles for fitting. A standard down pipe is hacked and welded to fit. I will redo this as the present one,although works,is too close to the starter and makes it a pain to remove same due to tight access. I mounted the Disco 1 200tdi air filter housing onto inside of the wing (or its possible to use a V8 air filter trumpet type housing). This allows the engine to breath in cooler air rather than engine heated air. The original fitment of the housing was via air hose over the top of the engine (as there's no real room between the rear of the cylinder head and bulkhead) to the air filter housing mounted at the injection pump on a garage made bracket. The air hose was pressed down onto the top of the metal injector feed lines by the bonnet which over time IMO would rub through eventually. Intercooler hose held onto alternator support by zip ty...this can be adjusted to not touch the wing/alternator bracket by careful alignment of the hoses allowing their own tension to keep the rest clear. If any one wants any other pictures of the Land Rover Import install by all means just ask.
  14. As an aside,the advice from Glencoyne ref. Clocking works....my buddy and I did it last weekend and it works just fine
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy