rick
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Posts posted by rick
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ge here http://members.shaw.ca/jbarge/springinfo.html for the most comprehensive spring ratio chart on the 'net.
The only 110 'fender springs I've seen here in Oz were the 330lb/in spring. The earlier 110 County's sold here used the soft spring but these also used the load leveler.
As to the ride quality, a major factor in this can be the shock absorber. Td5's have different shock valving with a lot less bump, and therefore are softer in ride compared to a Tdi type damper.
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ewwww, bad image, bad image.......
I nearly sprayed my toast over the 'puter, Des.
hope everything goes well for you Paul.
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Can`t wait to see the piccies of your new breast implants.
and we need photos Des
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or the husband that says to his wife....
"Why don't you tell me when you have an orgasm ??"
wife.....
"because I don't like to ring you at work..."
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the Irishman that won le Tour de France ??
He's still doing a lap of honour....
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sounds like a great trip Paul, I've always wanted to explore the Flinders.
I'm sure you'll have a ball.
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I'm with TC in that it's fine at night and the brightness doesn't distract, although you wouldn't believe so when it's first installed.
You can't read it when there is direct sunlight on it, eg driving away from a setting or rising sun, otherwise it is very easy to read.
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Stephen, I mounted mine in the box Ian can supply right in the middle on top of the dash where I can read it under the rim of the steering wheel.
The box is a standard instrument type box available from an electronics shop and is grey. I used some flat satin black vinyl spray paint and it exactly matches the L/R dash colour.
The thread is 1/4 BSP and I drilled and tapped it myself as I already have a tap, but if you don't have a tap, Ian's supplied plate is worthwile.
I have a picture here somewhere, and If I can get it scanned I'll post it in a couple of days.
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I wonder whether Rick has noticed what a great steering wheel you have.he doesn't still have the standard one does he
everyones a bloody commedian....
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thanks fella's
I forgot to add that I also tend to believe timing belts are only made by Gates (who don't do a Landy one), then Dayco. All others are unknown. Funny thing is the FM one is about 50% more expensive than the Dayco....
Regarding the tensioner and idler pulleys, can they be 're-bearinged' or do they have to be replaced as an assembly ??
TIA (again)
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Stephen, you are refering to Leo109 (Ian), who used to post on the 'old' board.
He can be found at http://www.thermoguard.com.au/
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from what i can make out, Oram dampers are thinly veiled Italian copies of an Ohlins damper.
Ohlins make some of the best (pure racing) road and off-road dampers in the world.
I emailed them several years ago about tech specs and possible sales/distribulorship in this part of the world, but they either don't speak English or just didn't want to talk to me.....
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Once upon a time there was only one choice, the OE timing belt, made by Dayco.
Now there is a plethora of belts to choose from. The OE one, a Dayco aftermarket one (are they the same ???
), and ones made by Dunlop, Federal Mogul and possibly more. Are the aftermarket belts as good as the OE one ?
Anyone have any experience with 'the others' ?
Any opinions gratefully accepted.
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........except Brett Lee, who SWMBO seems to get orgasmic over, & god knows what she gets up to when I leave her in front of the telly
jeez Des, what was she like when Matt "the lunchbox" Shirvington ran in the 100m at the Commonwealth Games and Olympics !!!!
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Yeah and but Australia have more dark time than we do ,
yeah, and it's a really, really, really black night time at that out here in the sticks, with only the glow of the milky way and the mighty Southern Cross above to guide you through....
You have to see an Aussie or African nightime sky to feel bluddy insignificant. B)
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I play dodge the skippy (with the odd steer and cow thrown in) every dawn, dusk and nightime, and I really want some 240's or XGT's to replace the Cibie copy Nite Stalkers that are on my car (they'll complement the Cibie headlights), but like Paul said, the best price I can get them for is a bit under A$400, and there are more important things to spend the hard earned on ATM.
Sigh. (with the sound of violins playing in the background...
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There is a light test in one of the local rags here (4x4 Australia) this month comparing medium size driving lights in a lab, and it's the first time I've seen a Lightforce light beaten (170).
Surprisingly, they rated the new IPF 900XS (spot and spread) first ('hottest' long distance centre spot and brightest, best controlled spread beam), Narva Ultima 175 'blue' second and the Lighhtforce 170 third (the others were Narva 175 (just behind the 'blue'), Hella Rallye 1000, KC 69, Hella 160.
The writers even seem surprised, commenting that the IPF 900XS is "the best set of IPF lights we've tested over the last twenty years".
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Hmmm ... thinks ... got a drum of Alpha SP320 in the back of a container somewhere I wonder if that would tighten up the transfer box a bit
All jokes aside, I remember seeing a paper comparing a straight SAE 90 with a Synthetic 75W-140 at something like -15*C (not really fair
) which showed that the straight 90 took something like 5 minutes under a certain load/speed to thin enough to splash up to lube the bearings. 
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G'day Jack,
yeah, I also suggested an electric pump to someone on the AULRO forum a few weeks back as one of the fella's on the AULRO mailing list did it a few years ago, (before I found mine leaking).
I was going to buy and fit a Facet (or similar) fuel pump, but I emailed one of the local parts houses yesterday just to see what they could do and they can supply the Delphi one for A$76, incl GST vs A$230+ for a genuine one mail order.
I reckon I'd be hard pressed to buy and fart around fitting an electric one for that, so I was just asking the collective wisdom here if the Delphi/CAV pump was OK.
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and I use 75W-90 GL5 in my Defender t/case and front diff.
(ok, I have a full synth 75W-140 in the rear Sals, but only 'cause I had extra leftover from one of our other vehicles that specs that viscosity)
It's getting down to -5* o/night here pretty regularly atm, and if you've ever seen how thick a straight SAE 90 is at 0*, imagine that trying to get up and into the bearings until things warm up.......
a 75W-90 is much runnier at these temps, with the same viscosity when hot @ 100*C, so it's a bit of a no brainer.
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ummm, you've lost me Les.
I was asking if anyone has had any problems with the Delphi/CAV lift pump (not injector pump
) thanks for the reply, though.
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mines on its way out, and I can get the Delphi one for 1/3 the price of the stealer OE one !
In my experience, CAV stuff is top shelf, just never had to swap out the 300 Tdi lift pump before.
Any opinions ?
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just insinuating that one has a standard to uphold.
), and ones made by Dunlop, Federal Mogul and possibly more. 
Coil Springs Part Numbers For A Standard 3dr 110
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I must admit I was shocked the first time I jumped into and drove a Tdi Defender after only ever being in a load levelled 110 County. The 110 felt like a RRC, the Tdi like a truck (or a Toyota) !
Funny thing is I'm used to the ride of the 130, and don't know if I could cope with the extreme wallow and sway of really soft springs now.