rick
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Posts posted by rick
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most any machine shop could do the swivel slotting. You'd need a mill and a rotary table.
Of course, someone that already had a jig made up would be much quicker and reduce the cost.
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Lest we forget
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Welcome to the forum Ashley.
I hope you handed him a cloth to wipe up the slobber.
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You will have noticed Col me ol' mate, that neither Rick nor I have made any derogatory comments. And the strain is killing us!
Naaa, the only reason I haven't said anything is that I haven't popped in for over a week. If Col had kept his trap shut, I'd be none the wiser. Of course, now that I know, I will try and refrain ......
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BFG / Michelin are getting a bad reputation here in regard to complaints from customers. One user of MT's was told that "he mustn't use his vehicle on the road because they are off-road tyres" and the opposite one that "you mustn't use AT's off the road because they are a road tyre". Also you mustn't lower the pressure in the tyres because this will cause radial cracking and it's all your fault nanana and we ain't going to pay.
Little wonder that many are switching to Coopers (sold by Dunlop) which work well, look good and are much cheaper than BFG's. The only downside is they don't last as long.
funny, its Cooper who this is happening to here. People are ripping tread blocks off ST's, and Cooper wont warranty them "as you used them off road, they aren't designed for that"
you really have to push hard to get some pro rata compensation. Cooper actually acknowledged that there is a problem by introducing an ST/C version, which is a softer compound in limited sizes to offset the tread chipping/tearing.BTW, Cooper are quite a bit more expensive than BFG here.
Having had a set of Cooper ST's on SWMBO Patrol, I was very concerned at all the micro cracking in the sidewall near the bead area, virtually from new. This never progressed, or appeared to make the tyre dangerous, but it was very, very disconcerting.
Cooper also push that they outlast the opposition, and offer a warranty to meet XXXXXX km, yet it turns out to be virtually worthless, as you have to reside in a state capital, have your tyres rotated and balanced every XX km, and have a steering alignment performed by the selling or another Cooper dealer (at your cost), etc, etc. If you live in the country, no warranty.
I'm probably being a little hard, as quite a few people have had good experiences with Cooper and their warranty, but you seem to hear 10 times more adverse comments about Cooper than BFG on the boards here.
When the BFG KO and KM tyres came out, (3-4 years ago ??) there were lots of compounding and carcass problems here, and BFG/Michelin seem to have overcome them. You hear very few bad comments these days, and there are lots of BFG's running around the country side here. I've been wrapped in the performance of my MT's on the 'fender, on and off road, and we are using AT's on the Patrol. The AT's aren't a patch on the Cooper ST in mud, but it hardly ever rains here and the vehicle is primarily a horse tower, so who cares ? The performance on gravel and bitumen seems on a par, they are wearing well and no sidewall cracking.
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Oh, c'mon. It's a hoax.
we know that Roman, but it's still bloody funny, and It's taking my mind off the follow on that has just happened in the cricket.............
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Go to Google, type in "French Military Victories", click the "I'm Feeling Lucky" Box and wait for Googles suggestion.
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how are you finding the Silverstones so far ?
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so many forums so much work to do damn its hard.
and yet we all seem to manage to juggle it quite well....
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Also, regards the variable vane Turbo, what make/model is it ? (without getting into wheel sizes,etc) and do you think it would bolt up to a 200Tdi manifold ?
TIA,
Rick.
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ARE took a very long time to make the air to water intercooler.
John, how did that end up turning out ?
Is the quality of their work as good as their claims ? as anytime someone in Oz has asked about intercoolers, I've pointed them there instead of the UK stuff. It'd be nice to know if their work is ok.
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i think i will simply place the jerry cans and water container over the back axle, and wait a couple of years for spring sag to take its course !
umm, all that will do is reduce your ride height (when the springs eventually sag) not the actual spring rate
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glad to hear your home in one piece Paul.
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Young King Arthur was ambushed and imprisoned by the
monarch of neighbouring kingdom. The monarch could have killed him,
but was moved by Arthur's youthful happiness. So he offered him freedom, as
long as he could answer a very difficult question. Arthur would have a
year to figure out the answer; if, after a year, he still had no
answer, he would be killed.
The question was: What do women really want?
Such a question would perplex even the most knowledgeable man, and,
to young Arthur, it seemed an impossible query. Well, since it was better
than death, he accepted the monarch's proposition to have an answer by
year's end.
He returned to his kingdom and began to poll everybody:
the princess, the prostitutes, the priests, the wise men, the court
jester. In all, he spoke with everyone but no one could give him a
satisfactory answer.
What most people did say, was that the Witch would know the answer. The price would be high, since the witch was famous throughout the kingdom for the exorbitant prices she charged.
The last day of the year arrived and Arthur had no alternative but to talk to the witch. She agreed to answer his question, but he'd have to accept her price first: The old witch wanted to marry Gawain, the most noble of the Knights of the Round Table and Arthur's closest friend!
Young Arthur was horrified: she was hunchbacked and awfully hideous, had
only one tooth, smelled like sewage water, often made obscene noises...
He had never run across such a repugnant creature. He refused to force his friend to marry her and have to endure such a burden. Gawain, upon learning of the proposal, spoke with Arthur. He told him that nothing was too big of a sacrifice compared to Arthur's life and the preservation of the Round Table.
Hence, their wedding was proclaimed, and the witch answered Arthur's question: What a woman really wants is to be able to be in charge of her own life. Everyone instantly knew that the witch had uttered a great truth and that Arthur's life would be spared.
And so it went. The neighbouring monarch spared Arthur's life and granted him total freedom. What a wedding Gawain and the witch had! Arthur was torn between relief and anguish. Gawain was proper as always, gentle and courteous. The old witch put her worst manners on display.
She ate with her hands, belched and farted, and made everyone uncomfortable.
The wedding night approached: Gawain, steeling himself for a horrific night, entered the bedroom. What a sight awaited! The most beautiful woman he'd ever seen lay before him! Gawain was astounded and asked what had happened. The beauty replied that since he had been so kind to her (when she'd been a witch), half the time she would be her horrible, deformed self, and the other half, she would be her beautiful maiden self.
Which would he want her to be during the day and which during the night?
What a cruel question? Gawain began to think of his predicament: During the day a beautiful woman to show off to his friend, but at night, in the privacy of his home, an old spooky witch?
Or would he prefer having by day a hideous witch, but by night a beautiful woman to enjoy many intimate moments?
What would you do?
What Gawain chose follows below, but don't read until you've made
your own choice.
Noble Gawain replied that he would let her choose for herself. Upon hearing this, she announced that she would be beautiful all the time, because he had respected her and had let her be in charge of her own life.
What is the moral of this story?
The moral is that it doesn't matter if your woman is pretty or ugly, smart or dumb, underneath it all, she's still a bloody witch.
yep, I'm pretty brave when she's not around....
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and if your missus saw that, you'd be fasting for a while, and I'm not talking food......
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any idea which/what cv they are using ??
TIA.
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I think you're right Will. I also heard the gearset was from a Rangie Borg Warner t/case ?
I know Bill/Daddylonglegs on Outerlimits has made a crawler box using the low range reduction from an original 70's/early eighties Jeep Quadratrac t/case that bolted on the PTO output just like the Ashcroft Underdrive.
The advantage here, other than a cheap gearset from a wrecker, was that the planetary setup locked up in low range, and so didn't generate as much heat as the Ashcroft underdrive. A disadvantage was that Bill cut down the Jeep t/case, and the diameter of the planetary section necessitated a smaller (Series ??) hand brake in place of the LT230 one.
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Give John/Bush65 a post/pm on here, he made it over OK, although you'll probably get onto him quicker at the Outerlimits Rover board here.
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Michele, do you think you could humour me and measure the clearance between the bumpstops (I'm assuming they're stock ?) and the pads on top of the axle housing with the beast sitting on a (relatively) flat bit of concrete ?
thanks.
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G'day John, good points.
Someones posted on AULRO that it is 1.1-1.2 bar.
The bloke that asked the original Q admits he knows nothing about turbo's, yet is convinced his is faulty.
I did point out to him that you need fuel, as well as air, and the ECM controls this, but........
BTW, how's the 300TGV coming along ?
I'm starting to think this might be the way to properly mod my Tdi.
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any one know ?
I can't find it in the RAVE, although I did find this,
In the event of an AAP sensor signal failure, any of the following symptoms may be observed:• Altitude compensation inoperative (engine will produce black smoke).
• Active boost control inoperative.
• Turbocharger boost pressure limited to 1 bar (14.5 lbf.in 2 ).
• EGR altitude compensation inoperative.
I know a 200Tdi is around 12psi, and a 300Tdi is 14.4-15.5psi.
I'm asking as someone on an Oz based forum needs to know to as he's getting his turbo checked out, and he's getting all sorts of carp answers like 7psi, etc.
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Michele, everyone here has pretty much covered it with the swivel pre-load, panhard rod bushes, steering damper, etc.
The panhard rod bushes tend to give a lot of people this problem.
I think it really comes down to a dynamic balance issue with your tyres. I've had a similar occurrence with a Ford F100 under braking. It took the tyre blokes about four goes at getting the 604V Desert Duellers balanced properly, then never had the problem again.
Another thing that exacerbates the shimmy is the stock track rod. As it is as thin as a piece of spaghetti, once a wheel starts to shimmy, the thin tie rod flex's and allows both wheels to dance.
Maxi Drive, or equivalent steering arms will help. (but it isn't the cure, more a band aid)
Dad had this happen when I was a kid in a full size Jeep. He ended up driving down a road with me standing on the edge as observer to watch what happened when it hit a large bump in the road at 60km/h. IIRC, we had 11.5" tyres on that thing, and always had a problem with balance.
The flex in the front mounted tie rod had to be seen to be believed ! It appeared to bending up and down a good 50-60mm either side of centre, with both front wheels flicking side to side. !
Some 1.25" x 1.25 " x 3/16" angle iron welded to the tie rod fixed it, as did sticking some caster wedges under the spring pads (leaf springs) to give it some more caster.
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fit Disco polyurethane spring silencers to rear [sit on top of the spring and removes most NVH - v.cheap].
will work on the front, but alas, not on the rear. Deafener rear springs are a much larger diameter.
you really have to push hard to get some pro rata compensation. Cooper actually acknowledged that there is a problem by introducing an ST/C version, which is a softer compound in limited sizes to offset the tread chipping/tearing.
new defender 300 tdi owner ?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
not strictly true.
Many high performance engines these days come new with synthetic fluids. (MB, Porsche, Corvette, Ferrari, etc) They have no problems 'running in'.
Also, most top of the line mineral based oils such as Delo 400 are loaded with friction modifiers like soluble moly, making them very 'slippery'. The reason I wouldn't use a synthetic oil running in a diesel is that it will be dumped between 1500 and 5000km, so you aren't getting your dollars worth.
I've been running Mobil Delvac 1 for the last four years, but run extended drains to make it worthwhile. I'm guessing a top grade oil such as Texaco Delo 400, Mobil Delvac MX or Delvac MX Extra would give similar results.
FWIW, I feel Castrol Syntrans gives better synchro performance overall than Redline MTL in the R380, although I feel MTL would be better in the UK winters. I'm currently running an MTL/MT90 'brew'.