rick
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Posts posted by rick
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That's effectively like the Machine Mart Sssshhhh range of compressors.
He mentions in his article that you need a filter on the output. I reckon this is essential. The Zanussi (and ZEM) units generate an oil mist in the housing and suck air in from the same space, thus the air is very heavily contaminated. My receivers and pipes are full of white emulsion (makes very good chrome polish BTW).
Another implication of this is that you get very high oil consumption, Machine Mart sell synthetic compressor oil for £10 per litre which makes this an expensive system to run.
I tried running on veg oil, but it seems to thicken up over time so have reverted back to 20/50 engine oil, although 10/40 would be better. You need thin oil, I intend to look deeper into this.
Also the oil particles take up space in the cylinder and don't compress thus reducing capacity.
Further, the air in the housing gets very hot, so you compress less mass for a given volume, reducing efficiency.
My solution is to extend the inlet pipe to the exterior of the casing, this involves major surgery and I have a prototype running at the moment.
a hermetic refrigeration compressor doesn't make a very effective air compressor.
Oil carryover is a feature of all refrig compressors. You will need an oil seperator in the discharge line at a minimum.
Refrigeration oil is extremely hygroscopic, with modern POE oils unbelievably so (as is the PAG oil used by Sanden in car A/C compressors)
Within 1/2hr your oil will become so moisture laden and acidic it will start to corrode things fairly quickly. A tip off here is when the colour starts to look a touch yellowy or worse, like beer.
Something around an ISO 32 or 46 grade air compressor oil would be a good substitute, or a PAO based refrigeration oil in the same viscosity. 20W-50 engine oil is just miles too thick and won't lube the bearings etc. properly. An ATF is about the right viscosity, albeit slightly on the heavier side.
Hermetic refrigeration compressors also rely on a ceratin % of cold suction gas to cool the windings. Sucking air out of the atmosphere isn't a good substitute, although a supplementary fan over the casing would help.
Displacements vary from about 2.25 cc's/rev to, well, how big do you want ?
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got any pic's of the mount??
ive been told that the more angle on the shock the less effective it is at dampening??
if this is true i was thinking of cutting a whole in the wheel box, above the oe shock position, and going up not forward?
hey bush65,
i have LRA's 17'' springs, i was looking at the 18'' ones but they would be way too stiff for a 90!
wish there were more people with landy bits on australia
cheers phil
yes, more angle on the damper relative to the axle path (or spring) means that the piston doesn't move as far for a given amount of axle/spring movement. Either the shock valving has to be increased to compensate, or keep the shock as vertical as possible.
Oil only shocks can't be mounted past 45* frommthe vertical.
Phil, which LRA springs do you have now ?
Purple and purple/orange are exactly the same rate, so it won't be any stiffer, just 1" taller.
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I put a disco 300Tdi rad in my rangie after having Natrad (at Warners Bay) replace the core with a thicker one (5 core from memory).
I mentioned the larger core to my rad bloke after remembering you'd done this in the Rangie, John.
I worked out today that he'd actually been talking to K&J in Qld. (they make radiator cores, intercooler cores, etc)
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Rick, when I replaced my rad, Craddocks told me that they're all the same for 300s.
Mo
Thanks fella's
FWIW, the Paddock site list both....
If we weren't already copping 35* days (and it's only spring) I'd import one from the UK, much, much cheaper than here, but it's a work truck and I need it to be on the road NOW and be reliable.
Will be taking mine to the Rad shop tomorrow and hopefully they can supply/fit a thicker core. Poor buggers were really having trouble identifying it in their (aftermarket) catalogues. He kept saying was it for a Disco...No, so he rang a big radiator shop mate in Queensland who confused him even more.
Was tempted to get an all aluminum one, a few race shops here make em for the 'fender, but they are pricey $$$$$$
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anyone know the difference between a 'fender BTP2601S and a Disco BTP2275 radiator ?
A few of the suppliers out here list the Disco one as suitable for a Defender....
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Thanks Rick for the link. There is some serious science there. Just out of interest what air filter does Ben/Isuzurover use? That information will be good enough for me.
Cheers, Paul
Donaldson
He rates the majors, Donaldson, Mann-Hummel and Cummins/Fleetguard as the top of the tree.
I've been using a Donaldson element since I dumped a K&N 4 years ago.
IIRC a Donaldson P182052 should fit.
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Paul, the filter test is http://www.duramax-diesel.com/spicer/index.htm
don't get too caught up in the various brands and how they did, view it more as a comparison of media types (oiled foam vs oiled cotton gauze vs fibrous cellulose/paper)
As I mentioned before, Ben/Isuzurover who posts here is a filtration engineer and says these results tally with other (industry) testing he's seen.
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surely the max fueling adjustment would have more effect on EGTs? as its at max power the EGT will max out.
I left out "adjust the off idling adjustment only"
Adjusting the stroke limit pin (diaphram) can easily exceed 720*C, let alone touching the max fuelling adjustment screw on the back of the pump. I can still hit 720* on a very long climb (3km) on a warm day with the diaphram adjusted only 60* from stock and I've increased the inlet hose into the air cleaner to a diameter of 80mm so I don't restrict myself there. The 3" exhaust also lowers max EGT, in my uncontrolled test by over 30* and yet it is so easy for me to hit that 720* mark. I've never even bothered touching the maximum fuelling screw as I can exceed (self imposed) limits of smoke and EGT just by the aneroid/boost compensator adjustments.
I suggested the stop screw to Paul64 as it's the easiest to get to and the one that won't harm anything whatsoever but will get the turbo spooling faster.
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If you want quicker spool up use a bigger diameter exhaust (less back pressure) and tweak the pump like Western suggested. If you are worried about EGT's just adjust the off idle fueling screw.
I've never seen any evidence that HiClones work, they have a reputation like snake oil on the Aussie boards, FWIW.
Forgot to add that K&N's are carp at filtration, which is what an air cleaner is supposed to do.
Isuzurover is a filtration engineer and can give you all the tech info you need on them There was an independent filtration test published in the US a few years back that comprehensively rubbishes them for dust holding/filtration. If you would like I can dig up the link.
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220lb/in in a 17-17.5" spring works nicely in a 'fender with winch and bar work for touring/off road work here. Enough rate to carry a load yet soft enough to go well and truly into the stock bump stops.
I was going to get some Eibach ones wound as the LRA/Browns Springs take a set after a while. (FWIW, no one to my knowledge makes a decent spring here in Oz. Not the best material and always hot wound.....)
BTW, Eibach and Hyperco are powder coated, and they are generally recognised as being the best suspension springs in the world. Also remember that a rust pit is a massive stress raiser on a spring, as the OD surface of the wire is the most highly loaded part of it.
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As Ali said, all this blew up as the self proclaimed Mufti of Oz claimed that the 'boys' who were responsible for the infamous pack rapes that occured here a few years ago and were 'religiously' based weren't responsible for their actions, it was all the girls fault. The remark relating them to "uncovered meat" is an accurate quote.
All hell has broken loose since, with the w****r claiming he was mis-quoted, as he has done for every controversial outburst over the last twenty years.
Moderate muslims were mortified and called for his removal straight away, infact most never supportd him anyway. Unfortunately he can't be deported as he now has Oz citizenship, thanks to a previous Prime Minister stepping in and preventing his deportation 15 or so years ago to shore up the Islamic vote in his electorate, although there is a whisper he holds dual passports and so could still be shown the door.
Howard's remarks bringing religion (Christianity) into the debate were just plain dumb and playing politics, as he was making a play to the increasingly influential conservative Christian vote, mimicking his mate George W. So much for being a secular society........he's just gone and alienated half the bloody country with that, and I'm really objecting to the fear mongering going on that accounts for our slowly eroding loss of freedoms.
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tell that to the aboriginees - any plans on the ex-convicts giving that back and buggering off home with their imported culture and religion?
oi ! I resemble that remark !
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Simple engineering, the wheels can only turn so far before they foul the radius arms.
The track needs to be increased to get more steering angle on the wheels, although eventually you end up being restricted by the CV's angle.
Have a look at a Y61/GU Patrol, the radius arms are positioned almost (within a few mm) of a Landy, yet they have a far better turning circle as they have a much wider track.
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Leave out the seal on the half shaft so that oil from the diff can lubricate the wheel hubs.
But you should replace the seals in the hubs, with a double lip oils seal Corteco P/N 15510067 or Rover P/N RTC3511 (not sure about the Sals rear). The seals used by Rover when they changed to grease lubrication are poor and will not seal oil in or water out.
Your wheel bearings, splines and cv's will love you for changing from grease to oil lubrication and double lip seal.
yep, the RTC3511 seal is the one to use on the Rover or Sals axles (same hubs), seated 4mm below the hub face.
Funny how the dreaded spline wear only raised it's ugly head with the introduction of greased bearing hubs. Some friends became standed in the the Simpson Desert thanks to rear drive flange failure.....
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If you want reliability, you'll want oil lubed hubs for where your going, (spline wear with greased bearings/hubs is artrocious) and the stock drive flanges just don't cut the mustard. (they are quite soft) Come to that, I know heaps of 110's/130's here that have broken the OE Sals shafts as well.
I'd still consider Maxi or Jack Mc.
Jack Mc can also make the axles any spline/diameter with new side gears to really beef up that area, with the stub axle being the only limiting factor here..
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what about Maxi Drive or Jack McNamarra ?
It's what we use here, much stronger than OE.
Both supply much better drive shafts/flanges for a Sals, although they will probably be $$$ in Blighty.
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<snip>
I have considered putting the K&N on top of the Mantec snorkel as a pre-filter (it may manage that) but it would look silly.
<snip>
I thought of doing the same with those small cone type K&N's, as that's all they're good for. My Tdi one is sitting here near my desk four years after I removed it to remind me of my folly.....
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Jim, I've never forgotten your K&N experiences, and often use it in my anti K&N rants here.
That filter you used is a Z89A here. It's a short version of a Z9. Both these are made in NZ now.
Donaldson pre-cleaners are often used here on top of snorkels. (and are almost universal fiment on most off road heavy machinery)
Donaldson and Nelson (Cummins/Fleetguard) have newer/more compact versions available, but the old glass bowl style is still very, very popular and do a very good job. Another alternative is a foam 'sock' that fits over a Safari snorkel head, (which may not fit the Mantec one) and a 'droopy' foam sock that fits inside the down tube.
Personally I prefer the glass bowl as you can see exactly how much carp has been trapped, and it is easily cleaned.
GUD's history is here
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Interesting, GUD Ryco use totally different Pt. #'s here, yet since they closed production in Oz last year, most of their filters come from either their NZ or SA factories.
As to the correct filter, well, western is correct, but I don't like the ESR2623 element (too restrictive IMHO) and use a Donaldson element instead. Not supposed to be for a Land Rover but fits, has the plastic turbulator to centrifuge the heavy contaminents out brefore they hit the media, has more filter area (the pleats are deeper) and appears to filter very well on our dusty roads.
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tweaking the fuelling as Steve said stops the boost falling away.
We have some pretty good climbs around here and turning the fuelling up and a 3" exhaust have me topping them 15-25km/h faster (depending on the hill )
re The Stig, anyone have any idea who it is ?
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interesting John. What year model is the Disco ?
This Defender was one of the very last Tdi's imported. Arrived Dec '98, delivered Jan. '99 and used the (now defunct) AMC air con kit. All the Defenders were imported sans air and used a local kit. I suspect the Disco has the UK OE setup, hence the alloy tensioner, etc.
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[OT]Oi,while you're out playing with the new camera,
what about a piccie or two of your 130,as you promised ages ago..?!
wink.gif
[/OT]
well, those three are a start, aren't they
and I posted a pic of my shaved Sals on Landroveraddict and AULRO, (although it's no where near as radical as the ones you see on Pirate.) so I've sort of started taking it's photo... -
Michele, that comp is approx. 90cc swept volume. (the '09' part)
The Oz spec air con is an after market kit, as the OE one was never considered good enough, not that our one is very good.
The tensioner is needed, and mounts/replaces the injection pump timing inspection cover. You can see the idler pulley below it in the third pic.
Don't know if these photos help. If you need any more/different angles, just holler.
The SO bought a new video camera a few months back, (for her dressage, but guess who has to be 'the cameraman...)) and it has a 2.5mb still capture, only hassle is, my computer OS is too old to talk to the camera, so I have to use a friends computer to download the piccies to disc, then home to my PC.....
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what model Sanden Michele ?
The Oz spec air conditioner uses a thinner belt than the polyvee pulley and the tensioner pulley only juuuust runs against the belt. It's a 4 vee belt and a 6 groove pulley, running in the middle grooves of the compressor pulley.
The compressor used here is a SD7H15-8032.
I can take some photo's if it's any help and post them up tomorrow night (our time)
and I posted a pic of my shaved Sals on Landroveraddict and AULRO, (although it's no where near as radical as the ones you see on Pirate.) so I've sort of started taking it's photo...
Fridge Compressors
in International Forum
Posted
I actually don't know if ATF will work, it's just that as I was writing it up this morning, I sudenly had an epiphany that my fridgy oil was roughly the same viscosity as ATF at 100*C and that you bodgy buggers would have some of that lying around ......