rick
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Posts posted by rick
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If you want to be really pedantic with the exhaust design, equal length tubes and a merge collector such as this
so that velocity is kept up and no heat energy is lost with expanding gasses in a box type collector before getting to the turbine.
I'd be a little worried about the life of mild steel with so much blooody heat in the manifold. I think this is why cast iron is used almost exclusively in road type applications, and inconel the material of choice in race ones, with 321 stainless second on the list for temps under 1800*F.
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GQ-GU (Y61) front with Nissan front radius arms is almost a bolt in. GU has the stronger CV's, is a wider track and has bigger (wider) discs with twin (floater) piston calipers compared to a GQ, but IIRC the stub is the same size.
Check http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/phpBB2/ and click on the Rover forum, a few blokes have done the GQ conversion.
Maggot4x4 did this, including a Nissan rear but had vibration problems with the rear (centred) diff in his Rangie, so went 80 series housings front and rear.
For the front end, GQ is by far the easiest, it is just bolt in, make a steering arm, block a brake pipe, redrill the pinion flange and your done.For the rear, I would go 80 series, due to the offset of the diff and the fact they are full floaters
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Page John/Bush65 as I'm sure he's fitted 80 series housings front and rear on his Rangie. Or just fit 80 series centre into the Rover housing + uprated axles and then you can fit Longfields, or truly bulletproof are Nissan Patrol diffs, about the same size as a D60, but the stub is a bit small on the CV, but just look at the thrashing the vehicles get on the OBC, and GQ and GU Patrols are the vehicles of choice there. Unfortunately the rear diff is centred.
A couple of blokes have fitted them to Rangies here. apparently the whole front axle + radius arms is almost a bolt in.
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Hmmm..... 80's Bling-tastic!!! B)
OK, called a Bunderra here, (model # didn't ring a bell) same 8" high pinion front diff as a 78/80/100 series. 4.375:1 ratio. (80 series was 4.1:1)
Often used here in a Rover housing. That correct ?
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what's an LJ70 ?
where does it fit in compared to FJ/BJ40, FJ/HJ45-47, HJ60, etc ?
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Ramsey supply a remote retrofit for their winches ex-factory.
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says a lot for your wheel alignment place, Ali.
Maybe give everyone a warning on AULRO and OL on who not to go too.
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Can you elaborate Rick? I've heard mixed reports, but they seem to damp my amateur benchpressing efforts upside down. I appreciate that's not an in-service test though, but I've heard from some people that it'll be ok. I don't know about the internal setup, can't find anything quickly on the net and I'm not about to cut a new shock apart... Will they damp less, not at all, overcharge one end and effectively seize, will it damage them?
OK I'm assuming (yep, very dangerous) that they are a conventional twin tube type damper, therefore they use a 'foot valve' at the base of the pressure tube for bump damping.
When standing upright, there is a ceratin amount of air space in the outer tube to allow for displaced fluid by the shaft under bump. Tip it upside down and the foot valve will cavitate, airate the rest of the fluid and bugger up rebound as well.
Years ago I was told that Rancho's could be inverted as they used a "cellular gas chamber" in the outer tube.
carp you could. It was a bit of expanded foam, the oil capacities varied a bit and the thing didn't work upside down. I went bouncing merrily down the road.
Carrera in the states use twin tube shocks in circle track racing that have a gas 'condom' in the outer tube and these things can be run upside down as they run enough oil not to cavitate and the condom takes up the availalble space for fluid displacement, much like a floting piston/gas chamber in a mono-tube.
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If you chop a coil or two off, you will increase the spring rate, just as GBmud said. If you clamp a couple of coils together, you get the same effect. (think of how a variable rate coil works
)A spring can be reset to a lower ride height by a spring works. In effect they stick it in the oven, compress it and re-heat treat it. Cheapskate racers in production classes here used to just stick the things in the kitchen oven at a high temp for a few hours, but they end up taking a pretty substantial set (sag) with use.
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Assuming compressins and rebound damping are different (which is typical) then turning them upside down doesn't sounds like a good idea.
ROTFLMAO
Trev, think about what you just wrote....
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On a related note, does anyone have any experience of running ProComps upside-down? I've got a pair of eye/pin shocks for the rear of my Ninety, but the eye is at the wrong end if I follow the 'this end up' instructions on the shock body.
unless they use an internal floating piston, they won't work, or at least not properly.
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have a Fiat 550 in the shed (no no, not a bambino, a bloody tractor...
) and gets used reasonably regularly. 55HP 3.1 litre direct injection from the late sixties/early seventies. Uses CAV injection to keep you Poms happy.About the same size as a mates Fordson Power Major, but nicer, 'cause it's orange
After using it he kept muttering "geez that's a nice tractor...." but I told him to sod off and fix his Fordson. Bloody mates, if it's not your girl or your Landy it's your tractor they lust after....
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just to add re peltier module frig's.
Dear old Dad modified a few over twenty years ago with bigger modules and more efficient heat sinks and they worked OK in Oz summers. The key to any 4x4 frig is uninterupted air flow to the heat rejection source, whether it be a fan cooled heat sink or fan forced condenser. Even a partly blocked access here will result in severely impared performance, regardless of refrigeration 'type'.
IMNSHO, the average 'electronic' frig these days isn't worth a pinch of Wallaby poo. As Col, John and Ali have already said, if you want a reliable frig that seems to last forever, get an Engel. I kow of many over twenty years old, that have done numerous off-road and outback adventures and still work fine. I used to feel that the insulation wasn't thick enough, but an insulated bag goes some way to helping there. Waeco are good value and lighter, but the jury is still out on long term reliability.
Don't get an absorbtion type frig (gas/electric) for a hot climate or vehicle use. You will be disapointed.
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have a good one, TC B)
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Went to get my aircon recharged today and it turns out I have a leak on the compressor. Can they be rebuilt ? Does anyone have part numbers pointers etc for the seal(s) ?
Cheers
Ivan
seals can be replaced, as long as the front bearing is OK. Check for front bearing wear, which is common when they have been run when low on refrigerant as the oil 'lifts' out of the compressor, stuffing the bearing and creating a seal leak.
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What about fitting Fox non coil shocks on a Defender 90 pick up, to use it for challenge/competition? does anybody has any experiences with them? Pro en con's?
thanks in advance!
http://www.foxracingshox.com/fox_offroad/offroad_index.htm
for comp use on a vehicle the weight of a Landy, I'd think you'd be better off with a remote can version with a floating piston rather than the emulsion version, which will fade much more quickly.
These are on my shopping list.
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Hi Folks
Are gas dampers the same as standard oil filled ones in that (forgetting the bushes) the oil ones become less effective over time due to ware on the internal seals, or do the gas ones just suddenly decide to pack in?
Log
both scenarios are possible.
All dampers 'wear' out, the oil can shear (become thinner) and the valves become les effective and the piston band not seal as well and they can also have a catastrophic internal failure of one or more of these bits.
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4-Way have been around since the seventies, they're nothing new, and they are the originators of the return to centre spring on shocks.
There's been a few 'exchanges' on the AULRO forum on these, with me on the "I don't believe they're necessary.." side.
Pro's, they help if you haven't castor corrected after a lift.
Con, a few have reported them dying in twelve months or so.
In my eyes, adding a spring is increasing the workload on the damper, as it now has to damoen spring oscillation as well as kickback.
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I thought I read somewhere that normal filters only take out stuff down to about 25 microns?
naa, most diesel fuel filters are around a nominal 6 micron rating.
Most engine oil filters are in the 25-30 micron region at Beta 2. ie. they take out 50% of 25 micron particles in the relevent ISO test.
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WOW, they sure change how the 90 looks !
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Al, apparently they did a full analysis as a colleague was developing his own range of PAO/ester gear lubes, and in their opinion the Syntorq LT can be matched in specs by a few other oils around the 11-12.5 cSt range @ 100*C. Quite a few NV4500 users fill with Redline MTL, or a brew of MTL/MT90, in about the same ratios as I use in the R380.
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the other thing to watch with Castrol is that they use different names in different markets for the same lubricant, and conversely use the same name in different markets for lubes that are patently different, and when you ring them for advise, not too many on the other end of the phone really know their stuff.
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My exhaust is in need of replacing, the middle and rear box's are coming away from the pipes. Just wondering if it would be o.k or of any benefit to remove them, and make it a straight through?
Any comment, or advice?
Cheers
both the centre silencer and rear resonator are perforated 'straight through' tubes, so there would be stuff all gain in removing them.
Now if you were to upgrade to 3" tube all the way, definately works well, (much quicker spool up, and the effective rev range is vastly extended, at least with a long 130 system) but you need at least a resonator at the rear, the noise is almost unbearable at full boost without anything, and the drone at cruising speed is worse.
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Thanks - though for info, the only time I've seen it referred to regarding the NV4500 is to say: "Always use Syntorq, NOT Syntrans"...!
Which is why I contacted Castrol and sorted out the best possible equivalent.
Good thinking though!
Al.
Al, this "Syntorq, NOT Syntrans" has intrigued me so I've contacted an oil analyst I know in the states who has had Syntorq LT analysed in the past. Unfortunately Terry won't be back at the office for a week or so, but so far it sounds as if Syntorq and Syntrans may be similar, if not the same as Syntorq is a Euro (German) Castrol lube.
It is a pretty trick brew, being a PAO/ester with the esters being derived from PAO base oils and mimicking VII's, without the downside of shearing as VII's do. It's a similar chemistry to SLX/Formula R 0W-30 engine oil.
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2/300tdi's exhaust port spacing
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
some times gone into that one. B)