rick
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Posts posted by rick
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If you are using expensive fully synthetic and off-roading I think you are wasting your hard earned dosh!
Much better to change all oils at 12,000 mile intervals or sooner if contaminated with water. Whether expensive fully synthetic or cheap(er) ATF if it's mixed with water it's the same cr*p!
doesn't rain here......
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Al, you might find that Syntrans would make a good replacement for Syntorq LT, although as you mention, Castrol make a few manual trans fluids in the 75W-85 range.
Syntrans is mainly aimed at ZF and Volvo light and heavy commercial transmissions in Europe and has a Volvo Heavy Vehicles pt #.
Here it's recommended as an all round heavy duty manual trans fluid (eg R380 when towing, various Mitsubishi's, etc) and competition (synchro) manual trans fluid, as well as heavy commercial 'boxes requiring a 75W-85 GL4 fluid, eg Volvo.
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mmm cost $100 here thats about $35 at the moment
ARB quote A$310 for a Rover diff and A$420 for a sals.
$100 is less than 2 hours labour, or less than 1 hour in some dealerships/garages.
That's bloody cheap, Ali.
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Really auto boxes have gears!!!!! come on really,sorry but i have seen more gearboxes than you have had hot dinners.Atf compared to real gear oil is carp,in the £48k wrc boxes i build we use pumps for lube aswell as for hydraulic purposes for controling diffs and activ roll control etc etc and we use 15/50 weight oil!!!!!!
autos have gears doh???? really
I thought Xtrac recommended Neo RHD in their 'boxes ? what 15/50 oil are you using ?
A normal car type gearbox doesn't need the EP additives that a hypoid diff does, it just doesn't see that level of loading, although the blokes that blend fluids reckon it will shear it pretty quickly if the blender has used any VII's in it (and this is why MTF94 should be changed more frequently than something like Redline MTL or Castrol Syntrans)
Generally an LSD fluid just won't work on a synchro 'box. The friction modifiers used to reduce clutch plate chatter generally makes the synchros innefective, although i've used Neo 75/90 HD successfully in a Peugeot and it improved the shifting markedly. None of this matters a rats in a competition dog box where you can use diff fluid with impunity.
As to low viscosity fluids needed for synchro engagement, it's possibly the most important charcteristic below -5* yet viscosity is only one factor that contributes to synchro engagement. The fluids co-efficient of friction is also vital and this is apparently the main characteristic specific manual trans fluids like Redfline MTL and MT90 (75W90), MTF94, Syntrans, et al are trying to get right.
A couple of blokes here are using Castrol Syntrax (I think this is SAF-XO in Europe, it's a PAO/ester GL5 75w/90 non-LSD fluid) in the R380 without a prob. (so far) Approx 14.5 cSt @ 100*C.
I found straight Syntrans or MTL thinning out too much in summer here, (rattly, harder/notchier shifting) and so have a 60/40 MTL/MT90 brew that seems to have solved that problem.
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the temp extremes there just blow me away.
Damn near as hot as here in Summer and five times colder in winter.
........and here I was shivering and wingeing my ar$e off in -6* this morning
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If this helps in Aus I have 285/75 R16 Mudds.
I run them at 50psi on the road and if I drop the pressure I go down to 20-25psi. Never had a problem.
I know I've said this on AULRO, but I'm damned if I know how you can run those tyres that hard !
In the rear of the 130, fully loaded with work gear (600+kg) I only use 36psi on the bitumen in my 255/85s
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I wonder if it is one reason why they say wheel studs should not be lubricated. I give a squirt of WD40 on mine, not that keen on greasing them as some people do...
Other threads get either copper grease or graphite grease.
I've often heard it quoted, yet never seen a convincing reason not to lube wheel studs.
FWIW, I've done it seemingly forever and never had a problem, on both road and race cars. (always using a tension wrench )
Rod and main bolts are generally oiled then tensioned and they never come loose. (or at least shouldn't
)On this theme, I had a report yeras ago compiled by Ford Racing in the US on rod bolt tension and fatigue cycles to failure. The sample groups were to correct stretch, under-tensioned and over (plastic deformation ahieved) tensioned. The under-tensioned group failed on average consistantly and significantly earlier than the other two groups, who, IIRC, were remakably close.
Care to weigh in John ?
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you do realise that the average air conditioning compressor is capable of refrigerating something like a 5'-6' square insulated box down to 0* ?
Anything smaller and you'll have serious freezer.
Might be easier/cheaper just to buy a Waeco or Engel.
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Yes, an air con compressor is fine to use. ThermoKing use virtually off the shelf Sanden compressoors in their smaller systems (eg small milk trucks and delivery vans)
Cleanliness is next to Godliness with refrigeration. All fittings, pipes, etc need to be kept capped at all times except when being assembled.
Don't open the drier until you are going to use it. Once fitted, purge with dry nitrogen and pressure test, then evacuate.
The oil used in the compressor is also hydroscopic (absorbs moisture) so it needs to be kept closed.
The TX valve capacity needs to match the system capacity (kw/tonnage)
You'll need a thermostat, and need to make the decision will you mount it on the evaporator or air. If using a static evaporator coil, best to mount to the coil.
Standard domestic fridges run at around 0 psi in the low side and 120-180 psi in the high side, depending on ambient (static coil). Commercial fridges/coolrooms, depending on conditions wanted (eg. humidity) run from around 15 psi upwards on the suction side and usually range from 100 to 150 psi on the discharge side, generally 125psi @ 25*C (fan cooled) on R134A.
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Tell me about air bump stops? Where / what are they from? What do they look like?
Si
Si, go here http://www.foxracingshox.com/fox_offroad/offroad_index.htm and click on bump stops.
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All of those dead and half dead birds/animals would have been alive before that bl00dy cat got them. Studies indicate that the evidence you have seen would be only a fraction of those that it has killed/injured.
Exterminate the cat is my very strong opinion. And I feel nearly the same about cat lovers. As for those that know and condone it happening, well ...........................
Introduced cats and foxes are doing enormous damage to the wildlife population here in Australia.
spoken like a true bush loving Aussie, John.
although I have heard the theory put forward that the feral cat is merely filling the void left by the near extermination by white fella of the quoll, who's range and eating habits are pretty similar. as to a bell around its neck......sorry, they don't work. Cats are consumate hunters, ever watched one stalking prey ?
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This seems a good moment to roll this out again
Chris
Chris, there's some good information on that link, some things ignored/overlooked, (eg. two major groups of oils, Group V, which comprise Synthetic base oils such as the esters [di and polyol, think Redline, Silkolene, Fuchs, Motul, et al and generally blended in various proportions with PAO's to give certain characteristics] and alkylated napthalenes, which have supplanted esters in Mobil 1, and Group III oils, which are derived from mineral oils, but have been severely hydrocracked, refining them further and mimicking a lot of the characteristics of a synthetic for less production cost, and often labelled as a synthetic in the US and Oz. In Europe these are labelled such as 'Technosynthese' or 'Molecularly Converted') some things I disagree with and some absolute hokum such as PAO's being derived from mineral oil (they are actually derived from ethylene gas)
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Mineral is the thickest oil at running temp
semi-synth next
synthetic is the thinnest
if in doubt ring your stealer and then go buy the cheapest
last time I needed oil of my TD (mineral) it was the dealers that were the cheapest so I bought it there
Siggy, Siggy, Siggy, how on earth do these hoary old myths perpetuate..........
Let us compare three diesel oils, one a full mineral 15W-40, in this case Mobil Delvac MX, the next a semi-synthetic 10W-40, Mobil MX Extra and lastly their full synthetic cousin in 5W-40, Mobil Delvac 1.
I'm using these as I have the specs in the 'puter.
First things first, actual viscosity of warm engine oils is measured in centiStokes (cSt). To be classified as an xW-40, our oil must have a viscosity in the range of 12.5 cSt @ 100*C to 16.3 cSt @ 100*C. (there are other measurements, such as the shear rate [HTHS] that are also specified and I'll ignore for the moment)
Now lets look at our three examples at 100*C.
Delvac MX is 14.2 cSt
Delvac MX Extra is 14.2 cSt
Delvac 1 is 14.8 cSt
OK, our Delvac 1 is the thickest (just) of these three at 100*C, but wait, there's more !
There is a measure of how an oil thins (reduces viscosity) with increased temperature and it is called its viscosity index. The higher the number, the less it thins.
Delvac MX VI 138
Delvac MX Extra VI 135
Delvac 1 VI 151
These numbers show that as the oil temperature exceeds 100*C, the Delvac 1 will thin less than the other two oils.
This is a very simplified explanation, and I've deliberately not tried to explain what happens at the other end of the scale to avoid further confusion.
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personally I wouldn't use exhaust wrap on either cast or mild steel, particularly a silica based wrap. Been there, done that on race car exhaust, and long term they don't particularly like it. I was sorely tempted to wrap the manifold and exhaust on my 300Tdi, particularly after fitting a 3" system and having a few boxes of Thermo-Tec wrap sitting on the shelf for the last ten years, but resisted the temptation.
If I ever get around to replacing the turbo with a TGV type, I'll HPC the housing and manifold and dump pipe/down pipe.
These ceramic coatings retain the heat in the exhaust nearly as well as the wrap, without appearing to thermally fatigue and kill the metal like the wrap does.
http://www.jet-hot.com.au/products.htm#JET_HOT_2000
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Pinched this from todays Sydney Sun Herald
I laughed till I nearly cried.
Flatulence sets hospital on fireMay 14, 2006
A PATIENT'S flatulence has been blamed for bringing his hemorrhoid operation to a fiery end. The man suffered minor burns in a brief but dramatic operating theatre fire.
The patient was at the Southern Cross Hospital in Invercargill, New Zealand, to have hemorrhoids removed when the accident happened.
A hospital source said there was a sort of flash fire. The hospital confirmed a fire did occur, and has ordered an investigation.
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I actually made a crank pulley holding tool, wedge that against the cassis rail and used a 5' length of water pipe on the breaker bar. Yes, it's a standard RH thread.
The reason for the tool is that you have to be able to do the damn thing up again afterwards
Best use a 3/4 drive bar and socket for tightening up, as the tension is pretty remakable (xxNm + 90*) I destroyed my nice 1/2" drive Snap On (snapped off ??) breaker bar doing the sod up.
At a pinch, a chisel ground down and wedged in the large slot of the flywheel will also hold the crank, and I know of one Land Rover dealer here that does just that....
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looks fantastic mate. Very jealous.
Reminds me a bit of the Entire Valley area in the NT, only about 1500km further north of there !
BTW, Have you aquired your new trailing arms yet ?
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don't forget that lovely Inconel stuff for the really high temp things.
Then your plain jane AN/NAS/MS stuff for the airframes.
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Biggest as in height, or biggest as in fattest ?
Height wise, 255/85's fit piece of cake (33.3" tall when new) and I suspect something like Silverstone's or Simex's in 34-35's would fit with minimal rubbing, they just totally screw you turning circle unless you reverse offset the disco rims.
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the films still in the camera Tony. When I get it processed and scanned.
None of that new fangled digi stuff in this household (yet
)a couple of other observations.
I could never rev past 85km/h in third. (255/85's) It just stopped. Now it will rev easily to 100km/h (and that was before the pump tweak) I suspect the extra length of a 130 system was just too much restriction.
Before the pump tweak, maximum boost was 15.5 psi, but it would 'float' around a bit (back to 14.5) and would fall away very quickly on any sort of incline in 5th. It now sits rock solid on 16 psi (and I didn't touch the wastegate) and doesn't drop wth any sort of throttle, and it gets to maximum boost very,very quickly/early in the rev range.
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a few of the boys on the AULRO board have fitted 3" systems to their TD5's, and all swear it's well worth it. One of the blokes used no muffler, but subsequently fitted a Hot Dog type resonator to his system. Most exhaust places here use 3" pipe. With our climate, stainless is wasted, so most everyone just uses aluminised tube. It'll damn near last as long as your vehicle.
I just fabbed up a 3" mandrel bend system for the 300Tdi in the Crew Cab last weekend, sans muffler and the bottom end spool up, plus the ability to finally be able to rev (easily) past 3-3500 was worth it. This was a stock tune Tdi. I came off the turbo dump pipe in 2.5", and about 1.5" down flared some 2.5" up to 3" at @ 15* angle to create a small cone. Also relieved the cast dump pipe/housing a little internally to match the flange and 2.5" pipe. After tweaking the pump, the performance is bloody unbelievable. A resonator of some description will be going on, it's a touch too........well.......loud with a heavy right foot.....(must be getting old...
) and a little drony. The TD5 system is 63.5mm/2.5" from the factory, stepping down in section near the rear resonator, and the 300Tdi system is 60mm. On my OE system, where the pipe was welded to the flange (at the dump pipe) the internal weld bead restricted the cross sectional area to 2"x2.125". It's now 2.375"
BTW, the centre silencer on the 300Tdi is a straight through design.
I don't think you'll notice anything by using 2.5" pipe, I think it needs 70mm at a mimimum (3"/76mm is much easier to find here), particularly on a 110 or 130 to get any performance gain, and that will be most noticeable in much quicker turbo spool up.
The big thing I did notice was a huge reduction in EGT's on my 2.5km long/200m climb test hill with the 3" system. In the past it has peaked at 623*, and regularly get between 604-611* (never below 603*). I deliberately held 4th @ 100km/h past the crest and all I got to was 580* on a 29*C day.
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5/16 UNF on my Nov '98 build Defender. Currently sporting aircraft spec 'K' nuts there (as is the drive flange on the park brake drum)
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remember that the rating of a t/stat is its opening temp.
A thermostat should be fully open approx 12*C above opening temp.
This gives a fair leeway in actual operating temp. On the VDO thermometer I have in the 300tdi i can watch the t/stat open and modulate, and it generally runs around 90-92*C in 'normal' conditions, going up to 96-98 climbing (any ambient).
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It's a expansion tank ejector valve, fitted upto To (V) LA 939975, on later vehicles it was deleted.
mine's a Nov '98 build date and it has it. I thought the bleeder acted as a check valve ? (non-return valve)
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although I have heard the theory put forward that the feral cat is merely filling the void left by the near extermination by white fella of the quoll, who's range and eating habits are pretty similar. 
) and a little drony.
Gearbox oils
in International Forum
Posted
reactive sulphur is hardly used anymore, you'd be hard pressed to find a GL5/hypoid diff oil that uses it.
taken from here http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultima...c;f=56;t=000013