rick
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Posts posted by rick
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or, you could just get them made dead straight and instal a Rangie Spares/Les Richmond Automotive taper shim between the chassis outrigger and the bush, or use one of Rangie Spares new 15* offset angled bush.
Just to throw more options up and give you more decisions to make
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Well the Camel had to go when we left the UK, but here is my new toy here in Dubai.
On its first jaunt into the desert.
G'day Col,
what's it like to have some grunt under the right foot after the 200Tdi ??
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I saw that too- bloody amazing- one of the seacats wasn't it?
i was more interested in the explosive welding technique personally.
Did you see that program a while ago about the seacats- someone had leased one from the manufacturers in tazmania, and two of the turbos had failed 4 months later.
A snip at £175,000 a piece
bloody hell, when I saw the heading I said out loud "you can't..." then read the thread....ooops.
Whenever we had to join aluminium to steel on race cars, and we pinched this from the airdcraft bods, it was a bloody long and painstaking process of etching the ally, particularly if it used an alclad coating (eg 2024, or 7075) copious amounts of methylethylketone to get it really clean, and an adhesive from 3M called Scotchweld 2216 B/A that was mixed by weight. The whole assembly was clamped and rivetted. Ciba Geigy also used to make some trick adhesives.
BTW, the Army here leased some of those Seacats for the East Timor conflict a few years ago. It was the only way they could get troops in there quickly enough in numbers.
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http://www.tanygraig.force9.co.uk/John/vlr/form.htm
If this link has been posted before, apologies.
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Well, I'm not there! Bit of a long drive for me anyway.
I've just spent all day removing the front and rear axles. Those Salisbury rears are a fair grunt for one bloke on his own, even with the hemisphere removed.
Paul
about time you started to put all that good gear together.......
and shave that Sals while it's apart, an easy 3/4" gain in ground clearance there.
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200 quid ??!!
The same air compressor is available here under a couple of different brand names. I picked up one from Supercheap Autos (commonly known as Supercrap) for A$179 with a two year replacement warranty, and then they reduced the price to A$149 a month or so later....
anyway, $179= 75 quid, $149= 63 quid
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Yes, true, that is the only way to do it... and then boing!!!! and the whole lot goes in all directions
It is good training in swear words of various sorts. Oh well, you have to have a sense of humour if you do this sort of job in a Land Rover
yep, its a Land Rover thing. -
well, there was a story on the AULRO forum a week or so back that claimed someone in Oz has a ordered a 130 Crew cab TDV6 auto !
LRA said OK, if you can wait 5 months and it will be A$60,000+....
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Mikes right, a 300Tdi hub is a 1.5 pitch x 24mm from what I can measure. Screw pitch gauges are handy little buggers.
edited to add, definately LH thread. I just whipped my fan off the front of the engine to measure.
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Got black header tank on my 200Tdi, it's been fitted your years without any problems, not sure where they are supposedly splitting probably at the small hose fitting on the underside where the expansion hose goes to the radiator
naa, they go along the seam. I really can't see why the opaqe/white ones wouldn't do the same, as it appears to be (at least to me) the same tank/material without the colour added during the moulding (to make them cheaper) My black one started to open up along the seam and so I replaced it, although it never leaked.
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good to see you are still in the land of the living Col.
Nasty bit of business down Junee way, I really feel for your rellies, speaking from experience, it can take a while to recover from a setback like that...
..... and apparently it all started with a cigarette
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Don't think they make the wolf anymore. i've heard that the moD are trialling Td5 wolf's with suppressed electrics on the engine.
there was one at Bling i think (or was it a Td5 defender converted?) on the M&D stand.
the electronic "quieting" was achieved here several years ago by the then Land Rover Australia (just before the Ford takeover) when the ADF was looking at re-powering the Isuzu powered Perentie with TD5's.
It entails a new harness, and cost less than A$100,000 in development. A mate who I used to work with in motor racing with was in charge of the project, and flew to the UK for briefings and presentations as Solihull didn't believe it was possible after spending over three times as much and not being able to achieve it.
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Jim, IIRC, the plug is 5/16 UNC.
I have a 5/16 stainless socket head cap screw in mine (just 'cause I had it sitting on the shelf).
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<snip>
Variable Damping:
I initially thought this was a good idea, but have reservations now. Trouble is, adjustables only have one valve whereas non adjustables have several (up to about 16). While the adjustables give a wider total range of damping, a given setting has a narrow bandwidth of conditions in which it works well.
A good quality non-adjustable will adapt itself to many different combinations of springs, speed & terrain while adjustables need adjusting for each. They work OK if you have the in-cab remote adjust kit, but it's just another thing to play with and they rarely end up set optimally for the conditions.
<snip>
Si
Ummm, not true !
Koni mono tube gas have a buildup of deflective shims on the piston, the adjuster is changing the bleed size. All the adjustable mono tube race shocks I've ever worked with use multiple shim stacks. Low speed adjustments alter the bleed size, high speed the pre load on the stack.
Koni twin tube road style (eg Koni Heavy Track) alter the bleed size, and also alter the pre-load on the rebound valve, the difference here is that they use a coil spring for rebound valve control, and it can be argued that this provides superior, more consistent control in extremes (they supposedly fatigue less than a deflective shim. Donerre, for example, who are famous Off Road/Raid style dampers only use coil spring loaded valves)
Multiple shim stacks really only work well in a narrow range of spring rates/conditions. Don't buy into the marketin BS. eg. A stock B46-whatever Bilstein for the rear of a RRC/Disco needs to be re-valved to suit a 130. It will not control the130 spring in rebound properly, there is far to great a difference in spring rate.
Ever wondered why shocks are revalved so often at races/rallies ?
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My challage truck runs Pro-comps as part of my sposership which I wanted for rock crawling ability where they excel but she is a bit wollowy on the road but there +4's and at the time it was what I wanted.
Both my racers run Reiger and Ohlins both fully two way (damp and rebound )adjustable and hight adjustable as well.
Ohlins talked about the 90 but it was too much money for what I use the truck for.
for good shocks you will need to look at the £250 each starting price but the average truck just does not need them.
My Reigers are £1750 + Vat each (WRC Focus strut redesigned and fitted to a Freelander)
My Ohlins are £1200 + Vat each (Made for the Dakar Rally)
That hearts when you need four at a time but the diffrance is worth it when raceing
So as you can imagin I have looked into shocks over the years but gave up and left it to the experts.
When Racing a good shock and spring set is worth 50bhp all day long
Jules, have you thought of Fox for the challenge truck ?? Fox Racing Shox
A lot cheaper than Ohlins, their basic shock has no external adjustments, but is re-valveable/re-buildable.
Looks like the Ohlins prices have gone up from when I was involved in road racing, nearly ten years ago. The standard mono-tube Ohlins was A$1750 each, and the then new twin tube TT44 triple or quadruple adjustable was @ A$2600, and didn't I get lost using those a couple of times...
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Found the front timing cover in EPC/Microcat, it just shows the front cover with the fan hub as part of the assembly, no mention of spares for the hub.
looks like a new part or a ingenious repair job thanks mate, just what I suspected.
It just had NLA/superceded in my EPC for the front cover !
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that would be the triangular hub on the water pump then??? not the serpentine belt pulley the only way to get a new bearing in there is to change the pump, LR don't list those bearings seperate, think you'll have to strip the pump if able to & source a bearing from elsewhere.
nope, not the water pump. This is for a 300Tdi. the water pump is seperate.
Its what supports the centre pulley that the viscous fan hub is screwed onto.
When you unscrew the fan, there are four bolts holding the pulley onto a hub, remove these and you have a small four hole hub pressed onto a spigot that appears integral with its bearing. This is pressed into the front timing cover.
cheers.
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200Tdi viscous hub ETC7238
300Tdi -------------- ERR2266
Sorry Ralph, I wasn't clear enough. I'm after the bearing/spigot assembly that presses into the front timing cover, which the viscous hub actually screws onto.
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can this be replaced without replacing the whole front cover ?
Is it a complete little assembly, bearing/spigot/hub, or.....
Is it just a standard bearing with a spigot pressed into it and the fan/pulley hub pressed onto the spigot (with a cleverly disguised rear seal ?)
The rear view of the bearing has the seal covering the whole back of the bearing, and I started to wreck it trying to pryse it off.
Anyone ??
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Interesting
I was thinking about a gas steering damper but I don't think I'll bother if that is one of the "side effects" - I've got enough steering grief to contend with already what with clonky steering column bearings and a clicky indicator trip
Bilstein, Koni and Delphi/de Carbon are mono tube gas pressurised steering dampers.
They only cause a problem if your swivel pre-load is too low, otherwise they are unnoticable.
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another alternative that I've heard of fitting is to fit an alternator such as a Hitachi off a Nissan or Isuzu with the vacuum pump built into it, and you get a 100 amp alternator at the same time
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Hmmm, it got down to -5* here a few times last winter here, yet the thing still ran at 90-92*. Admittedly, it was above 0 pretty soon after sun up, and usually somewhere between 8 and 16* during the day, but then, thats a summers day for you blokes, isn't it...
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1st of all check u have a good earth for the gauge and the engine. 84 degrees is about right for a Tdi in town traffic, should never go past 90 degrees even on the motorway. If the heater isn't hot it sort of proves its more a electrical problem. U did use the Racetech sender unit didn't u? The sender is ALWAYS matched to the gauge...
Hmmm, the t/stat is rated at 88*C, and should open between 85-89*, so how could it operate colder ??
According to my (VDO mechanical ) gauge I can see it open at roughly 90*, it spikes a little, then modulate around the 90-92* mark, with normal running of 90-96*.
It went close to 100* the other day, I was fully loaded, it was 37*C ambient and I was climbing a ridge.
I'm not worried at all running in this range.
Ivan, it isn't a good idea to run any engine without a t/stat, and particularly not a diesel. most engines rely on a certain amount of restriction/back pressure from the t/stat for proper coolant flow throw the block and head. Take the t/stat out and there is a risk that the coolant can bypass some areas. Not good. The other thing is that the engine components, eg pistons, rings etc, never get hot enough to run at the clearances thay were designed to run at, leading to too much blow by, premature wear, etc.
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I would never have considered a Toyota Echo as an off roader....
Or perhaps it is a Toyota engineer type testing the next model Land Cruiser disguised as an Echo...
yep, its a Land Rover thing.
looks like a new part or a ingenious repair job
Rear Trailing Arms
in Land Rover Technical Archive
Posted
not at all, sounds like a decision any of us would make.