ballcock
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Posts posted by ballcock
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10 hours ago, Tim2809 said:
Dvla will still change to motorcaravan but they want pictures and have a list of items that should be fitted. A fixed toilet being 1 of the items.
if its type approval is n1 and its gvw is 3050 then class 7if its m1 its class 4
if they try registering it on the mot computer it will tell them what class it is
Trying to get the DVLA to reclass a van as a motorhome at the moment is near impossible, most are reclassified as "van with windows" which is a mockery of their system. But can still be Mot'ed as class 4 and have the higher speed restrictions.
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Camper vans can be tested as class four even if over 3000kg. Even if registered as van with windows with the DVLA.
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2 minutes ago, monkie said:
I applied some gentle pressure with pliars around the red cap, enough to create a gap to get a small screwdriver in and pop out the cap. I could then replace the cap after having a look to keep dust and dirt out. They are coated in a light oil preservative.
I will show a side by side comparison with the Eurocar parts supplied one when it arrives. Both in terms of the container and the actual nozzle assembly.
I am looking forward to your comparison.
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Mine turned up on Saturday morning, excellent service. I haven't opened one yet as they are single use containers and I thought I would wait for your analysis.
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Has this sorted all the problems?
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If you haven't bypassed the dim dip relay that will bring the dipped beam on with the side lights as it sends a feed out to a resister that brings the dipped beam on with a lower output but this is enough to operate the relay for the headlight. Do you have led brake lights? if so there may be enough residual current feeding back through the sidelights to operate the relay through the same link.
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I have ordered a set off ebay for £115, they were the last one but miraculously they found two more.
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A length of scaffold tube between the wheel and turret works well.
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I riveted mine with countersunk rivets.
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If you have to drill it out can you clamp a plate over the bolt position with a starter hole to centralise your drilling? Would an arc welder be better for putting heat into the bolt rather that a mig?
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Very effective solution, you better be quick with the patent.
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Did you replace the starter with a bypass unit?
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Your door key is the same as mine, you should be able to buy a set of three to replace both front doors and the rear. Haven't you got a locking fuel cap?
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Is your door key the same length as the ignition key? The early Defenders used a double sided key that was shorter than the ignition, but this key also fitted the rear door so I assume you have the earlier lock from the series doors on the rear. I believe you can fit the later locks with push button handles but not sure if you have to replace the handles as well. The rear door I think you have to replace the lock mechanism to take the longer barrels, but again someone with better knowledge will confirm. The fuel cap again is another issue. I have three keys now on mine plus the security keys an just put up with them.
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I've noticed that the newer V5 doesn't say the transmission but when getting insurance quotes adding the reg lists the transmission type. For most of us this isn't a problem but if your 90 once converted to auto isn't registered as such could it cause a problem for an auto only licenced driver?
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As Snagger said there should be something stopping the bottom pointy end moving forward until it's lifted up the slot which stops it collapsing. If there is nothing there you could fit a bolt out of the bracket to locate it. I'll have to see what's on mine. I bought a kit from Nige years ago but have not got around to fitting it yet as I have no problem with my scissor system.
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I bought one from Screwfix a few years ago as my multi meters didn't have a clamp function. It seems ok I use it to check the amperage out of my battery charger as the gauge on the charger is faulty.
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3 hours ago, Snagger said:
That used to be the case, but not for a long time now. Whether the new rule is retrospective, I don’t know, but try a car built in the last 15 years or so and you’ll find the fog light operable irrespective of the dip switch selection. Front fog lights don’t even need to have the headlights switched on at all.
That was the point I was making about the front fog lights that they could be used with sidelights only when even dipped beam reflects off the fog. Rear fog lights I thought were still only to operate with dipped beam but I am an old git.
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Personally I would wire them separately as rears should only work with dipped beam where as being able to use the front with sidelights can be beneficial if the dipped reflect off the fog.
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Hi Jack, and welcome to the forum. I would occasionally have a problem with my V8 starting and finally located the fault to a multi plug in the passenger footwell. The fuel pump wasn't getting any power. If when you turn the ignition on you don't hear the pump buzz for a few seconds it might be the same fault. water gets into the plug and causes poor contacts so pulling it apart and use a good electrical contact cleaner pushing the connectors in and out a few times.
I hope you get to the bottom of it quickly, Tom
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If they are the same as these BA 113GP They are £52 to us online so it may have something to do with the vat rate in the country.
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On 11/7/2020 at 12:05 PM, Ivor said:
Hi, have got a set of these on my 110, , they have a metal cage on inside of bowl, do these need to be there as they seem to be shielding more light from already poor light
Welcome to the forum. Are your lights still on the original wiring? If so consider an upgrade to using relays as this will improve them considerably. If you do a search on the forum you will find a few topics.
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Could have been far worse, I'm glad all sorted now.
Ferm Hydraulic Pipe bender
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
If you do buy one of these to avoid the dents cut a short section of pipe one size up in half along it's length and use as a saddle. Trying to bend thick wall tube in the bender you may find it will collapse and kink this can be reduced by sand filling the tube. I haven't had great success with mine with tighter bends but bends up to 45* have been ok.