ballcock
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Posts posted by ballcock
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People have built a seat box to accomodate two seats in the rear instead of the triple or bench. this gives you the option of fitting various front car seats that aren't too large and match the same in the front. but this option won't allow you to fold the rear seats and make the most of the space, there are various topics relating to replacement seats on the forum that make interesting reading.
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3 hours ago, daveturnbull said:
It's quite simple. Pins 30 and 86 both need to have volts to get output on pin 87.
I see now one operates the solenoid and the other feeds the bulb.
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3 hours ago, daveturnbull said:
Mud UK were very helpful, but didn't have an answer.
I solved it tho. There is no pin out on a carling hazard switch for an external tell tale, so don't try. Instead, use a relay.
So the hazard light on pin 87 will only be lit when both indicator tell tales are live, which of course only happens when the hazard lights are on.
So simple, I came up with it all on my own. 😁
I am not sure how that is working, surely the simplist way would be to feed the tell tale dash light direct from the indicator supplies with diodes inline.
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3 hours ago, Gazzar said:
That's what I've got in mind, picking up the mirror mounts.
It's the wobble that bothers me.
It's going to be a clever bracket. I've just got to choose a holder, one in aluminium, I think.
If you form a plate with a fold either side there should be very little wobble.
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If you are going to fit it above the mirror could you mount a bracket between the mirror arm and sreen surround using the existing screws?
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I have heard of people using resin or pva, how effective they are I don't know. When I recovered mine I used lining carpet which helped to reinforce it. To clean the foam of I just used a stiff brush and vaccum cleaner and use a good spray adhesive for whatever you cover it with.
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20 hours ago, Tobias said:
ballcock, you might have luck opening the water pumps u and spraying wd40 or similar inside and try to work them loose. I've had success in resurrecting pumps.
T
It's not the impeller causing the problem. Due to their position on the vehicle water gets into the motor end and seems to have frozen and blown the unit open.
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Mine is a 110 station wagon and my belt is mounted behind the seat. so the plastic retainer is not used.
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It could be, if you are not using it regular you could dry it off and put something there to absorb water. you can also buy an ultra-violet dye to add to the system and trace with an ultra-violet lamp. I have made up a spare cap at times with a tyre valve to pressurise the system cold to look for leaks.
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I've never had a problem cutting the cable most of the plugs have a soldered connection and a thread on the outer sheath.
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Hi Kevin, If you have no luck elsewhere I have one in S. Wales. I don't know what the postage would be. Pm me if needed.
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I aquired a 30T press from my local scrappy, I was dropping of some bits and pieces and spotted it, when I asked about it the cylinder was leaking and the air assist was missing. I did a deal on it thinking it was worth it just for the frame, I stripped the cylinder fitted a new seal blanked the air assist and now got an excellent shop press for less than £50. What I need now is some tooling for it.
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4 hours ago, Puffernutter said:
Is that the problem?
The solenoid should reach the end of travel (fully engaged) before the power is applied, so it sounds as if there is something wrong with the electrics in the starter motor.
It could be the pivot pin worn at the dog gear end, the solenoid has full travel but doesn't engage the drive cog. but as said the starter motor should not spin until the drive cog engages with the fly wheel.
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I have always fancied an anvil but I must say that looks great. what is the attachment made from?
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Are there not holes for fixing on that edge?
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It's not a switched live it's a switched earth when you open the door the door switch contacts to earth making the circuit.
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Glad you've found the problem, I wasn't expecting that. Nice looking truck I like the blue chassis.
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Heated rear window in mine.
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Pull the lead off the stop solenoid to see if the lights go out.
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The sidelights have a permanent live supply, possibly a bad earth as the stop solenoid takes very little current to stay open and could be the light supply back feeding through the stop solenoid to a better earth.
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Bearmach online only.
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I have a pair of those but I think they are the lower wattage. I bought them when they were on offer, I like the design with the lens folding safely and the fixing clamps and door hooks.
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I wouldn't know as I fit my own. I would also think it depended on your location and whether you are contemplating main dealer or local garage. Hopefully someone can give you a more accurate idea.
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3 hours ago, Gazzar said:
They're good, are they? Shame there's nothing closer to 48mm. 4mm is a lot to remove with a Dremel.
Maybe I should get a few stones for the die grinder.
If you can't get the correct size and intend to use a die grinder why not just drill a series of holes around the circumference and have less material to remove.
Seat Options 110 Front and Rear
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I have fitted Discovery 1 seats in my 110 both front and rear, XS half leather with the Land Rover logo. I made a bracket to attach them in the rear so they fold as originals to give good use of the rear compartment and the front i've modified to fit on the original fixing points and hinge to the rear to access both seat storage boxes they are about 40mm higher than original bases but are very comfy and look right. The only real problem I had was the door handles fouled the deat backs when folded flat so I replaced the handle with straps made from webbing.