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ballcock

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Posts posted by ballcock

  1. 38 minutes ago, Retroanaconda said:

    Thanks guys. Yeah I could add a washer to lift it a bit, I’d need to wait until I’ve got the engine crane up here though to have any chance of getting it back on again. 

    Will have a go at fitting the windows tomorrow :i-m_so_happy:

    You don't need to lift the door off, just take the weight off the pins, undo one at a time and add washer when refitting.

  2. 1 hour ago, mad_pete said:

    why are you “bound to tackle stuff on your own rather than waiting for a mate ?”   
    Just don’t do the job now - most Land Rover jobs take years anyway - just let them wait a couple more months. If it is a critical job (it isn’t) then phone a mate while you do it or WhatsApp from your phone.

    We have plans in place that describe who lives and who dies in the event there is a shortage of ventilators. 

     People need to wake up and take this very seriously and not be doing jobs they don’t need to be doing. All you need to do is sit on the sofa for 3 weeks to save lives. 

    3 weeks then the next 3 weeks then the next. we don't know how long this will go on for. I will try to make the most of my time doing something constructive whilst trying to minimise risk. 

    • Like 2
  3. If they are 15mm od I would use a compression fitting or a speedfit push fit elbow both are easily demountable if necessary. I solder a compression olive to 15mm pipe to create the lip for the hose to go over. You can solder copper to ali there are also some metal adhesives used in the plumbing trade to join copper pipes that might work.

  4. 3 hours ago, Oakmaster said:

    Can we ask what you did in the end?

    and because Id quite like to build a 'dim dip' (putting me in a minority of one I'd guess) Where there 2 resitors (one per headlamp) or two.

    If I do this I'd include them within a  alternator-fed system, using 6 relays 2 each side dipped and main separately, plus dim dip, fed with heavier wire - its a lot of relays and wire, but it would / should be 4 times as reliable.

    luckilly I never had to delve into the dreaded black box, can anyone tell me if it was 1 or 2 resistors, and the resitance in Ohms (Western has said between 1 and 0.5 Ohms - did this change?)  and their rating in Watts.

    No big deal if nobody knows! I'll have to experiment.

    Thanks

     

    B

    I actually like the look of the dim dip lights, I just wanted to improve the main beam. I hadn't considered re-instating it but sounds an interesting idea.

  5. 12 hours ago, andy _1 said:

    How do you think the police find out about things like this INFORMANTS/Grasses

    As in the case I pointed out the seller was promoting his rebuild as a good thing, in other cases it's when insurance companies start looking into reasons not to pay out or trying to pass the blame elsewhere. Would you be happy having paid thousands of pounds on a Defender onlt to find if involved in an accident the insurance company said it wasn't the vehicle they had insured, or in another scenario the Americans decide to crush it whilst trying to import it as has happened.

  6. There was on Facebook marketplace a few weeks ago a nicely rebuilt 110 for sale in South Wales. I had seen the truck around and had spoken to the then owner. Reading the add he had put up for it, it clearly was stating it had been rebuilt onto a 2011 puma chassis and running gear. Passing his place of work the following day I thought I would pop in and recommend he removed the add and advised him to check the DVLA website to confirm what I was telling him. The add stayed up and it appears it was sold a few weeks later. Some people just don't learn or take advice.

  7. On 12/5/2019 at 9:23 PM, ballcock said:

    I am in the process of fitting a thermotop V to my Defender. The installation manuals are easy to find on line. I have bought a 1533 timer to run mine which has a W bus output which hopefully will make it work. The unit I have is out of VW which is Audi badged and has a different plug to the Land Rover units. I was talking to a company at the Land Rover show at Stoneleigh the other weekend who make leads up for these units. They also make a unit which triggers a w bus output with a 12v input signal which sounded good value for money. The company is called futuranet and appear to be quite active with the Disco 3 forum. I have no connection with them but they seem to know what they are talking about. On a seperate note the fuel pumps also act as a metering pump so you need the correct pump for the heater type.

    A little update on this. Having bought a second 1533 controller as the first didn't seem to be putting out a signal I was still unable to get the unit to work. I decided to try the other unit I got from a similiar car this also would not work. I found a unit out of a Jaguar on ebay at a good price so decided to buy that. I also ordered some cableing from Futuranet to connect to my computer. What I have learnt might be of use to someone else.

    Firstly the Jag unit doesn't come with a water pump although the socket is there. The Webasto software seems easy to use. Which seems to show that the VW units will only run as auxillary heaters and are unable to run as parking heaters, Unless some one knows how to reprogramme this.

    Unfortunately both the water pumps on my VW units are useless so I need to find a replacement and see if I can get the Jag unit to run it, if not then a seperate supply from the controller with an overun timer might work.

  8. 1 hour ago, malce said:

    Anyone know if the 1533 contoller still work as normal if you wire up a remote to it?

    Really know nothing about remotes but I am looking at a Insma  Wireless Remote Control 433 MHz 12V 4CH Wireless Remote Control Switch Relay Switch 2 Transceiver with 1 Receiver and assuming this would work. Help please.

    There is a How to on the Disco 3 forum about this. It requires opening the controller and soldering cables to replicate the push button action using a relay operated by the remote.

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