secondjeremy
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Posts posted by secondjeremy
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1.6 ohms unballasted and 1.2 ohms ballasted? I think these were the figures I obtained when I was assured that a new coil was suitable for Land Rovers but suspected it was ballasted - so compared it with a few others.
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You'll only need etch if you go to bare metal - you can get it in aerosol cans from places like Halfords or proper automotive paint suppliers.
You need to choose your paint system - basically cellulose, 2 pack or synthetic, or household paint.
Cellulose is unsuitable as it dries so quickly that it pulls bristles from brushes and won't roll. It also dissolves many things and may cause reactions with what's already there.
twin pack is nasty stuff and should be used with breathing apparatus - many have used a suitable mask with gas filters and lived to tell the tale.
Synthetic brushes nicely , thins with white spirit, is cheap and shines well (could be flattened). Slow to dry which can cause runs. Very like household paint.
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81 probably has multisplines at the outer end. I think the diff end is still the old 10 spline pattern.
You may be able to determine which side by simply jacking up each back wheel in turn and trying to spin it. One wheel raised, handbrake on - wheel shouldn't turn - so if one does turn that shaft is broken.
Its probably the off side one (short)
Its possible that the drive flange has stripped. (Bit held on with 6 BSF bolts under the galvanised 'Hub Cap')
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The steering box is adjustable - and instructions are in the workshop manual. Good ones are quite tight.
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Have a look at the Series clutches on Paddocks website - they've got all the alternatives and details of the applications. (Also sell a decent range as well as the cheapies)
The clutch will go with the flywheel - so will be a diesel one. The S3 has a normal car-type withdrawal bearing - so doesn't need the ring over the ends of the diaphragm spring fingers. My guess is that its 9.5 inches - used on most of the S2a diesels.
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You can build a 2.5 with the 2.25 timing chain and pump. I'd keep the 2.5 head with the block as it'll keep the compression ratio correct - use the 2.25 head and it'll be higher. (I know that the face is flat - but the ratio will take into account the comet combustion chamber in the head.)
Strictly the pump won't be calibrated correctly but you may be able to undo the max fuel control (throttle stop) a bit without causing black smoke.
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Suffix D is significantly different - the main difference being the 'coffin-shaped' engagement teeth which are unique to that box.
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Petrol and diesel use the same chassis.
Britpart exhausts are excellent (and very good value from some suppliers)
I'm not aware of any poor fitting exhausts out there.
Diesel front pipe is slightly longer than petrol on bit nearest manifold. Its 2 or 3 inches - as the petrol manifold stretches further down. Apart from that S3 exhausts are the same for petrol and diesel. S2 and 2a diesel are different and come out sideways through the wing - and fit S1's as well. Front and intermediate pipes are different - silencer is the same.
Front pipe can be a problem - needs vehicle raising to get it in
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Alloy on a steel frame is quite common - and if you look on S1 club forum you'll find a long discussion and much speculation about them.
The 86 bulkhead is radically different (top, parcel shelf, angled footwells . . . ) - and 1600 80in bulkheads have sidelights in the top corners - which were dropped for the 2 litre which had one-piece front wings (1600's and 86in have detachable outside panels - with the same e part number) with the sidelight faired in.
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I'd say that those nuts will cut off with a sharp cold chisel. Remember earlier ones are BSF threaded - which may be why they've got burred.
You may even be able to tap the correct size socket on - I found 3/8 drive was better than 1/2 in for these nuts.
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Is range going to be a consideration - in which case its advantage diesel as whatever the merits of the 6 cylinder Land Rover engine - economy wasn't one.
Apart from the bellhousing the gearboxes are similar. If both vehicles are S3's you should be able to put the 'diesel' bellhousing straight on the front of the 6 cylinder gearbox. (Replace the 3 3rd/4th synchro springs while you're there for reliability - RTC 1956 - cost - minimal) You can do the same job with a 2a box - clutch is a bit more involved.
I'm assuming neither is a '1 tonne' - in which case the gearbox is different - transfer box I think)
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2Leading Shoe brakes produce a nice self servo effect when going forward - and thus stop better for the same pedal effort as a single LS brake.
Payback is that they need adjusting more frequently - which is one of the reasons that they have a LARGER diameter master cylinder (gives a heavier pedal)
The only difference the master cylinder is going to make is to the weight of the pedal and the frequency with which the brakes need adjustment. It won't affect the balance.
I have SWB diesel S3 with the optional servo brakes - which work well but are not very exciting (mind you a 2.25 diesel hardly needs brakes as I don't use it for towing). I have had a SWB with a Prima engine and LWB brakes (with servo) which were much better.
Many dual line master cylinders have different diameter fittings for one circuit on the master cylinder (and PDWA as well i think)
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I use Comma 80/90 in my vehicles as its a GL4 oil and won't attack the yellow metals (and I have a convenient supplier)
To my surprise the gearchange on my S3 with a sound gearbox has not become obstructive in cold weather as I was expecting it to do. So perhaps there are advantages to the multigrade spec.
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You'll need some inverter for a mains compressor. I think the Aldi one is 2.5 HP which is about 1875 watts. At 12 volts this is 156 amps - ignoring losses in the inverter. . . . . .
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This any good - many sizes available.
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Sounds like a bad case of valve seat recession - which is a consequence of using non-leaded fuels in an engine designed for leaded.
Only answer is an unleaded conversion - which involves fitting hard inserts to the exhaust valves and special exhaust valves. Engine re-conditioners will know all about this.
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Are you getting a spark? Could be points have corroded wile the thing was inactive and need cleaning and re-setting. I'd check the spar - if none check the low tension wiring to make sure nothing has been dislodged then do the points.
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There's another one - which was used in this year's lord Mayor's parade when the wooden wheel of the Lord Mayor's gilded coach expired.
Think that one has 26 as the last digits of its number (Google shows 26 in the 2010 parade.)
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The proper series seal had an aluminum strip inside it - and is riveted on - some pop type - some solid. Just drill holes in the appropriate place and pop rivet the seals back on. Or use Paddocks stick - on seal or use the defender one - you pays your money and makes your own choice.
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Britpart don't give a nice change and don't look like the originals (about 8000 miles in box - fitted out of curiosity and because the the bent over bit at the end looked longer and I wondered if they might be less inclined to fall out. Bearmach do give a nice change - and look like the originals - about 3000 miles in replacement box.)
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As the slave cylinders are at the wheels and the master cylinder is above the pedal - its the master cylinder.
If the master cylinder is leaking there is a high risk of total brake failure and the vehicle shouldn't be driven until properly repaired.
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No spark - clean the points and re-adjust them. Its the problem with 90% of petrol engines that have been standing.
Don't do anything until that pulley's sorted. The timing chain mechanism may fall apart and wreck things.
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I've got the same problem - I'm wondering if its due to a slack bearing in the overdrive allowing the shaft to move back and forward and pump the oil in. I suppose one solution would be to remove it and drill a hole in the side of the seal at the appropriate level so that the oil drained back when the thing was stationary.
I should add that I think the transfer box is breathing correctly. I had to change the main box and was very careful when I built it to make sure it vented properly - and did the same when I fitted it to the transfer box. Overdrive is still taking the transfer box oil and chucking it out.
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Most if not all diesel 90's have an electric stop solenoid on the diesel pump - so the switch is not the same.
The switch unscrews from the back of the lock mechanism - so you could keep your own or replace it if its the problem.
Locks come up on e-bay complete with keys. Otherwise I'm sure the usual parts suppliers will have them if you have the part number.
coil resistance
in Series Forum
Posted
Normally unballasted. The ballasted system was introduced in the 60's to improve starting. Idea is that if you use a coil for a lower voltage system it gives a bigger spark - and yippee the car starts better. Trouble is the coil overheats in normal running and dies.
So put a resistor in series and you're back somewhere near where you started. Short the resistor out as you operate the starter and you've got your lower voltage coil!
Wonderful - did it make any difference - well I was running cars without it during the 70's and they always started well even when living outside - even my Triumph Stag which had lost its one sometime before I got it.
Resistor may be visible or incorporated in loom. Switching is done by extra spade terminals on the starter solenoid.
Don't think early S3's had them - later ones may be different.