secondjeremy
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Posts posted by secondjeremy
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Its getting the pipe out of the slave cylinder which can be a challenge
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Radford brothers make bulkheads - tend only to advertise in the S1 printed magazine. Same for Wadsworth panels.
http://www.radfordbulkheads.lrsoc.com/
Other sources - Pegasus say they make new bulkheads - they are on the net and do high quality new S2 ones.
Craddocks have lots of bits - and remanufacture some chassis parts.
Some is the same as S2. 86/107 have less in common (front dumbirons are rather different)
PA Blanchard have some parts as do Dunsfold. LR Fasteners have some odd bits and loads of fixings.
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I think you'll find that the rigid pipes are availble ready made (and bent to shape in some cases) at reasonable prices.
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I think its a late Santana built Series Land Rover box - probably S3 spec. There was something about them on S2 club some years ago. I think its internals are much the same as standard. (But there are 4 specs of S3 box - with the last one having coffin-shaped engagement teeth to help secure gear engagement.)
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All standard Land Rover master cylinders have a single diameter bore. The differential pressure between front and back cylinders being achieved by the use of larger diameter cylinders on the front (or smaller on the back if you prefer). Looking at the cylinders its easy to identify the back cylinders as they have a flat in the casting above the round bit.
The larger cylinders (front on 10in installations) are used at the back on long wheelbase vehicles - which of course have 11in brakes and twin leading shoe brakes on the front - so its possible that asking for 'back brake cylinders' could produce large ones if the supplier doesn't realise that there is a difference between long and short vehicles.
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Bedford - being owned by American would have been pioneers of the SAE thread system in the 1930's - and probbaly kept using it.
By and large manufacturers only changed their threds when they fundamentally re-designed components or made new designs - so by the early 70's its probably still SAE.
SAE threds were adopted in UK in the late 40's as the Unified system - naturally known by a different name - UNF (Unified Fine)
The nearest to M10 would probably be 3/8 UNF - which has a pitch of 24 TPI (Threads per Inch)
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I'd first suggest that you get a S3 parts book - who knows - there may even be one that can be downloaded.
Bigger cylinder gives a heavier pedal - its curious that many S3 diesels were built with the servo as standard - and I wonder if it had more to do with the time between adjustments that a light pedal. Certainly my S3 SWB with servo, dual circuits and 10in brakes didn't seem to stop any better than a S2 without the servo.
The parts book describes master cylinder NRC 6096 for dual line systems - and makes no reference to specific vehicles.
There are further references to the dual line system fitted to earlier S3's in the optional parts book (It was an optional extra - as was the heater and the canvas hood - so no reference in the standard parts book!)
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When I replaced a land I was ready with suitable gear to drive it on when hot but in fact when I'd heated it a bit it dropped straight on and went to the correct place with no need for any force at all.
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I 've got one - and nickwilliams sums it up very well. Really handy for getting into tight corners and around nuts etc - and if it knocks a hole in the chassis - it needed welding anyway!
Also digs off old underseal/waxoyl without clogging or sending everything into orbit. (It loosens the syuff which can be easily scraped off.)
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If its not an all synchro box - worth checking the 2nd gear adjuster right at the top of the box under the small square plate with 2 countersunk screws. Must be a small clearance when the gear is engaged.
All synchro boxes only have an adjuster for reverse.
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It seems if the pedal pumps up on rapid application - its adjustment. If it won't its air in the system.
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The pads were originally fixed with a bifurcated rivet. New pads are available for 90's/110's - but they're shorter. The bifurcated rivets were unobtainable when I wanted some. There is no recess for the rivet heads in the pads (which were a hardish rubber) so even if properly installed the rivet heads would have hit the supports on the chassis before the rubber did - so I used pop rivets.
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Just to add to David's post - the pedal must be free to return to its stop. If it doesn't the recuperating system in the master cylinder won't work. (When the pedal is released fully the valve in the cylinder should be open to allow the fluid to return and rest at atmospheric pressure.)
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Land Rover liked big pipes for the clutch - but it cannot make any difference to the weight which is determined by the ratio of master cylinder piston cross sectional area to slave cylinder piston cross sectional area and the ratio of the length of the pedal to the pedal pivot and the pivot to the master cylinder operating rod.
It may be that the fluid flow would be improved by the larger pipe - but this would only really matter if you deliverately released the pedal rapidly by for example slipping your foot off it sideways - which isn't really a material consideration - and I doubt if the flexy is the same size internally.
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Some vehicles have a vacuum switch fitted there. Idea is that when there's sufficient vacuum the switch is open - light out. No vacuum - light on.
Rover fitted them for a while - then deleted them from about 1980.
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The rubber diaphragm splits. You can strip it down - and probably get it back together again - but I don't know where you're going to get a diaphragm.
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As above - but is the battery any good? - they don't last forever!
But first - is the belt tight?
Then are the terminals still good? - clean? and properly fitted?
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Some people claim you can change the springs through the top of the box - never tried it! There may be a thread on S2 club forum about it (Same part unless a Suffix D box - which still has the same springs)
Actually you only need take the front off the box and the synchro unit falls out. Read workshop manual as how to re-assemble.
There may be consequential damage if the bits of spring have got between the gear teeth.
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20/50 was recommended by Rover for the 2.25 engines - both petrol and diesel.
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Recommended oil is 20/50 isn't it? Thinner oil will reduce pressure.
Gentle flickering of the light is a sign of engine bearing wear - but not imminent doom. The thing will probably run for years like that.
Worth making sure the idle speed isn't too slow.
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All S1 petrol engines are overhead inlet side exhaust engines. The 2 litre is by far the most common. Early 1600's are the valuable ones. The number is stamped vertically on the front of the machined exhaust manifold face. Very early ones generally have side plates - covers for the water jacket on the inlet manifold side.
Early ones can ve very valuable - even if siezed solid.
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Curiously early 80's had more oil in the transfer box - and the level was dropped to stop it migrating to the main box!
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Late S3 steering wheels were plastic coated rather than painted and don't dissolve onto your hands on damp days. They superficially look identical.
I think early 90 4 spoke wheels are interchangeable - again they are plastic coated rather than painted.
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The ordinary civilian hard top fits as does the hood.
Some Belgian military Land Rovers were 2 WD with a limited slip rear diff.
Series 3 88 top speed question
in Series Forum
Posted
The maximum power output is quoted at 4000RPM - so the thing should do that. For a SWB on 600 x 16 or 206 x 16 tyres (which have virtually the same rolling radius) the thing runs at 15.4 MPH per 1000 RPM - so it should do 61.6 MPH before it hits the limit. LWB's go a bit faster as they have bigger tyres - I've seen 65 without overdrive.
If its in good order (starts well and doesn't smoke) I'd start by making sure the throttle opens properly. The thing should be set so that when the pedal is in its stop (bolt under pedal) the throttle arm on the pump is fully open. If its not - adjust the linkage so that it is. Be careful and make sure that when the thing is fully open that its the stop under the pedal that is the limit rather than the pump lever. The reason is to relieve the pump lever of excessive load which will wear its spindle and cause it to leak.
The instruction for setting the pump are to see if it blacksmokes at 49 in THIRD!